Snaking your way through Jirisan National Park

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One of the most scenic routes in South Korea snakes through Jirisan National Park. Along the way, you can visit beautiful viewpoints, cafes, and temples. Time to take your car on a road trip.

Jirisan National Park is the largest and probably also the most famous national park in South Korea. A very good place to go hiking, with great scenery everywhere you look. But there is also plenty to see for those who prefer (or want to alternate with) driving.

All stops are marked in the “Namwon Day 10 – 12” layer of my Google Map for the lesser-known south and west of South Korea.

Odogae Pass

Kim at Odogae Pass in Jirisan National Park, South Korea
Parking at Odogae Pass in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

When you enter Jirisan National Park south of Hamyang you’ll automatically find yourself on the Odogae Pass (or Jianjae Pass). This pass was designated as one of the 100 most beautiful roads of Korea and is the start of your road trip through Jirisan National Park.

After reaching the top, you can park your car to take pictures with the zigzagging road.

First Gateway

The First Gate at Jirisan National Park, South Korea
Buildings at the First Gate stop in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

Driving on you reach the First Gateway and a rest stop with a view of the northern side of the park. There’s a toilet building here and a small shop that sells local products. I still regret not buying dried Jujube here and having to buy a more expensive and not as good looking pack at Lotte Mart in Mokpo. So if you see something that interests you, buy it here or at the next stop.

Jirisanjomang Park

Shops at Jirisanjomang Park in Jirisan National Park, South Korea
View from Jirisanjomang Park in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

A bit further you reach another shop with a pavilion looking south.

Changwon village

Cafe in Changwon village in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

Head further south to visit the village of Changwon and have a drink at 마을카페안녕 (opening hours: 10:00 – 18:00; closed on Mondays). I think I spent nearly two hours relaxing in their garden just like I do in my own garden. The cafe sells many homemade food and drinks. I can recommend their iced Mulberry tea, yogurt, cheesecake and toast with mulberry, strawberry and sweet potato spread.

Iced drink in Changwon, South Korea
Cheesecake at a cafe in Changwon village in Jirisan National Park, South Korea
Yogurt at a cafe in Changwon village in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

Before moving on, take your time to observe and enjoy the quietness of the village you’re in.

Flowers at Changwon village in Jirisan National Park, South Korea
Farm at Changwon village in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

Byeoksongsa Temple

View at Byeoksongsa Temple in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

At about a ten minutes’ drive, you can pay a visit to the secluded Byeoksongsa Temple. Walk to the top to have a great view of the temple site surrounded by mountains.

Seoamjeongsa Temple

Colorful temple at Seoamjeongsa Temple in Jirisan National Park, South Korea

The next stop is Seoamjeongsa Temple. Of all the sites I visited during this South Korea itinerary, this was perhaps the site I was most impressed with because it was so beautiful. 

You can read more about my visit to Byeoksongsa Temple and Seoamjeongsa Temple in my Seoamjeongsa Special.

Leaving Jirisan National Park

Scenic Drive through Jirisan National Park in South Korea

Continue driving as on the picture and leave Jirisan National Park near Namwon. From here you can return to Hamyang using the expressway or head to the next stop on your list. Depending on your route and the season, Jirisan Herb Valley could be an interesting stop.

I actually took the 861 road south, but if you want to visit Jirisan Herb Valley on the same day, then this route is better.

How to visit by public transport

If you want to do this by public transport, you’ll have to go the other way. You’ll first visit the temples and then take the bus or walk to Changwon village. From there you can take two buses and walk a bit to the Jianjae viewpoint. Unfortunately, there is no direct bus to the viewpoint, so you might not want to do all the stops. I saw plenty of people with backpacks getting off the bus and walking towards the temple sites.

Temples and Changwon

 
From Hamyang (용평리 정류장 승차 bus stop) to the temples or Changwon you can take the bus between Hamyang and Chokdong (함양-촉동).
Get off at the 금계 정류장 하차 bus stop and walk 15 min to Seoamjeongsa Temple or get off at the 창원 정류장 하차 bus stop for Changwon. The temples and Changwon are about 40 minutes walking apart.

Odogae / Jianjae Pass

 
From Hamyang to Jianjae/Odogae viewpoint: take the Hamyang – Weolpyeong (함양-월평) bus and get off at 월평 정류장 하차 bus stop and walk 20 minutes to the viewpoint. If you’re coming from Seoamjeongsa Temple, then you have to take the Hamyang-Chokdong bus and transfer to the Hamyang-Weolpyeong line.

Extra: Jirisan Herb Valley

Flowers at Jirisan Herb Valley in South Korea
Artistic cabin at Jirisan Herb Valley in South Korea

The funny thing about this stop is that I actually planned to visit another Herb Valley as a day trip from Namwon and ended up finding this one on the map instead. To start with the most important observation: a visit to Jirisan Herb Valley is only worth it in spring and summer. When I visited on October 11, most fields were flowerless and there weren’t enough areas with plants that thrive in winter. So most areas looked barren, one building was under construction and they were preparing for an autumn festival the next day. In short: a mess.

Kim at Jirisan Herb Valley in South Korea
Botanical garden at Jirisan Herb Valley in South Korea

I did like the botanical garden very much: there was a big variety of plants, many paths to explore (especially fun for kids!) and many things to see. You can look into another greenhouse to see herbs being grown from seeds. Further up is a more scientific hall and a room with dried herbs and preserved insects.

I think Jirisan Herb Village would be an interesting stop when the whole valley is in full bloom.

Jirisan Herb Valley by Public Transport

Reaching Jirisan Herb Valley is more convenient from Namwon city. Take bus 113 from somewhere in the city center of Namwon to bus stop 용산 정류장 하차 at a ten minutes’ walk from the entrance to Jirisan Herb Valley.

Scenic route through Jirisan National Park

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