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10 Days Austria Travel Itinerary

Kim — Wed, 09 Jun 2021 14:00:00 +0000

Explore the provinces Salzburg and Upper Austria, with some day trips to Styria and Carinthia with this ten days in Austria Itinerary. You will visit the cities, mountains, picturesque towns and see the most beautiful sights.

This Austria itinerary focuses on the middle of the country. You can easily add some days at the end to also visit Austria’s capital Vienna.

For this itinerary, you will need a car. If you don’t have one – and can’t rent one – then you can still use this itinerary as an inspiration because it includes many interesting places. It is possible to visit all of these places using public transport.

Austria Itinerary Summary

Day 1: Salzburg
Day 2: Hallstatt & Dachstein
Day 3: Graz
Day 4: Sankt Wolfgang & Gmunden
Day 5: Loserberg hike
Day 6: Linz & St Florian Monastery
Day 7: Filzmoos & Zell am See
Day 8: Gipfelwelt 3000 & Sigmund Thun Klamm
Day 9: Lienz or Bad Gastein
Day 10: Grossglockner High Alpine Road

Austria Itinerary Map

You can find all places and highlights mentioned in the itinerary in my Austria Google Map.

How to start your trip?

If you’re coming from another country in Europe, you can drive to the starting point of this itinerary: Salzburg.

If you’re arriving in Austria by air, then see if you can fly to Salzburg Airport or Linz Airport, as the first part of this itinerary takes place near these cities. For international flights, Vienna Airport is a likelier destination. If you arrive at Vienna Airport, simply rent a car and head towards Salzburg and Linz. This will take about two and a half hours for Linz and just over three hours for Salzburg. Along the way there is plenty to see and there are many interesting places to visit.

Where to stay in Austria?

While it is possible to move to a new hotel or apartment every few days, I’d recommend to only stay at two places during this trip.

See if you can find an apartment near Bad Ischl, Bad Goisern or Bad Aussee for the first six days. This will put you in between the cities Salzburg, Graz and Linz, so that you can visit all of them with a one to two hour’s drive. Hallstatt, Dachstein Krippenstein and Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut can be reached within half an hour.

Haus Loserblick

I stayed at a beautiful holiday home in Lichtersberg near Altaussee. It is a bit pricey but very comfortable with a sauna and a spacious living room and kitchen. As a bonus: you can go hiking from here and the Loserberg mountain is only one toll road away.

For the second part of the trip, days seven to ten, it is best to stay near Zell am See and Kaprun.

Holiday Home Stocklgut

I stayed in a holiday home in the small village Niedernsill. It was less luxurious than the previous home, but it was spacious and the lady of the house provided us with milk from her own cows every day (paid service) which was nice.

10 Days Austria Itinerary

Click on the links in the day descriptions for more information about the highlights.

Day 1: Salzburg

On the first day of your trip you will explore Salzburg. Salzburg is the ideal destination for those who love history and architecture. This is where it happened. From being the location of a Roman settlement, to becoming the seat of the archbishop and the center of the counter-reformation. It is only the fourth biggest city in Austria, but it is thriving. Salzburg’s historic centrum is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is also the city that Mozart was born in.

Park your car in one of the parking garages on the northeast side of the river. On and around the Linzer Gasse you will find many fun, modern cafes. On this side of the river you can visit the Maribell Palace, Mozart House and the Capuciner Monastery on top of the hill. From this hill you have a great view of the grandiose buildings that stand on the other side of the river.

After crossing the river, take a stroll down Getreidegasse; Salzburg’s touristy and chic shopping street. Its location is no surprise, as this street is very close to the beautiful Dom of Salzburg (Cathedral), many museums and the university. Near the oldest bakery in Salzburg, you can take the castle train up to Hohensalzburg Castle to explore the castle town on top of the hill. From here you have a great view of the buildings on both sides of the river.

Last but not least, after you get back to ground level, you can visit the Petersfriedhof Graveyard and Catacombs; my highlight of the day.

Read more: Things to See in Salzburg

Day 2: Hallstatt & Dachstein

Drive to Hallstatt and park your car at one of the parking lots south of town. Hallstatt is one of the most picturesque towns in Austria. It is charming and has a great panoramic view. At the northern end of the town, you can take a picture of the town and lake against the backdrop of the Dachstein mountains. This is the ‘one and only’ picture that every tourist has to take back home.

The town itself is perfect eye-candy material: beautiful wooden houses – some older than others – built against the mountain, colorful houses near the market square, and a church with an interesting stone wall. Hallstatt deserves its fame.

At Hallstatt, you can also visit Salzwelten on top of the hill; one of the most well-known salt mines in Austria. You can explore the tunnels, learn about salt, and view Hallstatt from above from the viewing platform nearby.

From Hallstatt, you drive in fifteen minutes to the parking lot of the Dachstein cable car station. Dachstein Krippenstein is well-known and loved as a skiing destination, but don’t let that fool you: the Dachstein mountains are a great place to visit in summer as well. (And fortunately, ‘summer’ lasts until November opening time-wise). Visit the Giant Ice Cave and the Mammut Cave and take some great pictures at Dachstein 5fingers and the World Heritage Spiral.

Day 3: Graz

Today’s destination is quite far. Depending on where you are staying it might take around two hours to reach the city of Graz. Graz is the second biggest city in Austria; a university city known for its Old Town that is one of the best-preserved city centers in Europe. You can find Graz in the province of Styria in the south-eastern part of Austria at a two-hour drive from Vienna.

Park your car in one of the many garages (can be very narrow) near the Old Town or the Kunsthaus. From here you can explore the city center on foot. First, head to the Old Town of Graz to see the colorful buildings with various building styles.

Number one of my favorite sites in Graz is the double spiral staircase in the government building near the north-eastern side of the Old Town of Graz. Such interesting architecture giving you the feeling that you can endlessly climb up into the sky. As both stairs meet briefly at every level, only to separate again later, it is no wonder this staircase is called the “staircase of reconciliation”.

Near the double spiral staircase are the Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II and the Dom of Graz. Two imposing buildings with majestic allure next to each other.

A visit to Graz is not complete without climbing the stairs or taking the elevator to the castle overlooking the city. On top of the Schlossberg, you can find some interesting structures like Clock Tower (Uhrturm), the Chinese Pavilion, the Schlossberg stage, and the Gothic Gate. From the viewpoint you can see the intriguing building that houses Kunsthaus Graz.

On the way back home you can make a small detour to visit the Red Bull Ring if you are a fan of motorsports.

Day 4: Sankt Wolfgang & Gmunden

On the fourth day you will visit two nearby towns. Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut is a pleasure to explore. Its colorful housing and shops selling local delicacies and other (winter) products give the town a winter wonderland charm. Even on a sunny day with a blue sky. There’s a shop selling air-dried ham for an afternoon snack and other shops selling everything you could possibly need for a cold winter.

The biggest tourist attraction (but not trap!) is the Schafbergbahn, an old railway track that takes you to the summit of the Schafberg. This railway track – with the bright red train – has been in use since 1893. From the peak of the Schafberg, you have a panoramic view of the Wolfgangsee and the Salzkammergut mountains. I do recommend taking the first ride up the mountain, because that leaves you more time for sightseeing in Gmunden.

If you are short on time – or just having a great time in Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut – you can also choose to make a short stop in Gmunden on day six or skip the town altogether. I visited Gmunden as one of the much needed breaks on the day I drove from the Netherlands to Austria.

Gmunden is a small town that is best known for the beautiful photos you can take of the lake surrounded by the mountains. On a small island in the lake, connected to the mainland by a bridge, sits Schloss Ort, a small castle that is often used as a film location in movies.

Day 5: Loserberg hike

What would a trip to Austria be without hiking?

The Loserberg is an 1838 meters high mountain in Ausseerland in Austria. It is a place that is well-known as a ski resort, but – among tourists – less as a place to go hiking. There are plenty of short and longer hikes available. Some of the shorter hikes can be combined into one long hike and there is also plenty of space to simply wander.

You can start the hike of your liking from the parking lot of the Loser Alm restaurant at 1600 meters. To get there, follow the Loser Panoramastraße; a zigzagging toll road of 9 km from Lichtersberg near Altaussee. If you are looking for a short hike, then the Augstsee roundtrip, the Bräuning Alm roundtrip, and the path to the Loserfenster are perfect for you. For a longer hike, you can continue to the Loserberg summit from the Loserfenster.

After your hike, head to the Blaa Alm for a nice meal at a restaurant surrounded by forest and grass fields with a relaxing outdoor seating area and a playground for kids. You can also explore the nearby town Altaussee and relax near the lake.

Day 6: Linz & St Florian Monastery

Drive in an hour or so (depending on where you are staying) to Linz, the third biggest city in Austria after Vienna and Graz. The city of Linz is the most important industrial city in Austria. For tourists, it is probably more interesting to know that Linz was named the cultural capital of Europe in 2009. And it shows.

Visit the Old Town to see the Landhaus, Kremsmünstererhaus, Old and New Cathedral and the Trinity Column on the Main Square.

After sightseeing in the Old Town and exploring the beautiful buildings there, it is time to visit something completely different, namely the Mural Harbor of Linz. In this harbor, you will find one of the biggest open-air exhibitions in Europe. Free art and plenty of open space against a unique background all ready for you to explore.

You can combine a visit to Linz with a visit to the St. Florian Monastery nearby. From Linz, you can drive to St. Florian in less than half an hour. St. Florian is the largest monastery in the province of Upper Austria. It was founded in the early ninth century and refounded by the Augustinians in the 11th century.

Day 7: Filzmoos & Zell am See

A trip to Austria would also not be complete without a hike (or drive) to a mountain hut and a hearty meal. Look no further: the Oberhofalm near Filzmoos is a perfect example of a mountain hut. Either park your car in the valley and hike to the mountain hut, or pay a small fee for the toll road and park in front of the restaurant. Filzmoos is on route to your next holiday home in the Zell am See / Kaprun area.

The town Zell am See is located next to a large lake that lends itself perfectly to all kinds of water sports activities. Zell am See is a bustling town in high season, but blissfully – ghostlike – quiet in low season. Wander the streets and go shopping at the clothing stores and shops selling local delicacies or have a drink in a restaurant or cafe. In winter, this town is a perfect base for skiing in the area, for example on the Kitzsteinhorn.

Day 8: Gipfelwelt 3000 & Sigmund Thun Klamm

Head to the Kitzsteinhorn cable car station to take the glacier jets to the panorama platform Gipfelwelt 3000. From the ‘Top of Salzburg’ you have a great view of the alps, especially in summer when it is not snowing. At the top you’ll also find a small alpine museum and a restaurant with a view. For the ski enthusiasts among you: on the Kitzsteinhorn you can often ski as early as October.

If you have some time left after your visit to Gipfelwelt 3000, you can head to the Sigmund Thun Klamm; a naturally shaped gorge with water that flows beautifully. You pass the entrance of this gorge on your way back to Kaprun.

Alternative: Stausee

You can also choose to visit the Stausee on this day if you prefer a warmer destination that is better suited for hiking. To get to the Stausee, you drive past the Kitzsteinhorn valley station towards Bergrestaurant Mooserboden, a restaurant located next to the alpine lake Stausee Mooserboden. In this area you can go for a walk, hike the herb trail and have a meal at the restaurant.

The Stausee can only be visited during the summer season (until mid-October). Do pay attention to the interactive information board on the 168 road near Kaprun to see if the road to the Stausee is open. If there is an avalanche warning, you cannot visit the lake. If the road is open, you can park at Kaprun Stauseen Parkhaus and take the shuttle bus from there.

Day 9: Lienz or Bad Gastein

Lienz and Bad Gastein are your alternative options if the weather is bad on one of the other days. So feel free to move another day’s activities to day nine if needed.

Lienz is a city with a colorful city center that often has great weather. If the weather isn’t great around Zell am See and Kaprun, then head to Lienz, a town south of the Grossglockner mountain. From Kaprun, it is about an hour and a half drive to Lienz, either through the Felbertauern Tunnel or by crossing the Grossglockner Hochalpenstraße (closer to two hours).

In Lienz you can relax in the colorful city center and see Schloss Liebburg, the Antonius Church, an Old Smithy and the Old City Wall and Tower. Outside of the city center you can pay a visit to Schloss Bruck, a castle built on top of the hill dating back to the 13th century.

Alternative: Bad Gastein

Are you looking for a relaxing day? Then head to Bad Gastein, an area full of wellness resorts. Spend your day relaxing in the saunas and thermal baths surrounded by the alps.

Day 10: Grossglockner High Alpine Road

Today is the last day of your roundtrip, so let’s end the trip properly with a scenic drive. The Grossglockner High Alpine Road is the highest surfaced mountain pass in Austria: a zigzagging road with amazing views. Go on a road trip and see the beautiful alpine landscape from the car and the many sights and viewpoints, such as the Fuscher Törl Memorial, Edelweißspitze, Hochtor and the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe.

When you reach the end of the Grossglockner High Alpine Road you come upon the village Heiligenblut. Heiligenblut is advertised as a beautiful, charming, and picturesque village. Picturesque, sure, though no more than Hallstatt or Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut. Charming? No. Not in October when all the restaurants are closed or under construction. Heiligenblut is only worth a visit in the high season.

On the other hand, as it only takes five to ten minutes to see the village, there is no reason to skip it either. Snap your perfect picture of the Gothic church with the Grossglockner mountains in the background as a souvenir.

From Heiligenblut, you take the Grossglockner High Alpine Road back to where you came from.

You’ve reached the end of this Austria itinerary. If you can spend more time in Austria, then you can continue your trip in or near Vienna or in the west of the country.

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Highlights of Japan – three weeks Japan itinerary

Kim — Wed, 24 Jun 2020 14:00:00 +0000

Catch the cherry blossom and April festival season with this three weeks itinerary for Japan. You’ll see all the highlights of Japan, including Tokyo, Himeji Castle, and the Hiroshima war memorial.

Japan is a beautiful country with many interesting things to see. There are many reasons for visiting Japan: are you interested in the high tech culture, the samurai history, or the aesthetic parks? Or do you want to combine all of these in the itinerary you’re planning?

If you’re traveling to Japan for the food, then you’re lucky: you can visit any part of Japan and enjoy delicious meals.

This itinerary shows you the highlights of Japan. Basically, the must-see sights every first-time visitor to Japan wants to see, for example, the Hiroshima war memorial and Himeji Castle, but also the beautiful temples in Kyoto and the old trade route in the Nagiso Valley.

If you’ve already seen the Highlights of Japan, then you can check out my other Japan itinerary, focusing on the islands Kyushu and Yakushima in the southern part of Japan.

The right timing

Every season offers its own unique highlights. This itinerary is set up around an April visit, and more specifically: to get to every city just in time to see the festivals and be in the right part of the country to see cherry blossoms bloom. You can’t go too early, because then you’ll miss the festivals and you can’t go too late because you’ll miss the cherry blossoms in this part of Japan.

If you time your itinerary right you can see:

Cherry blossoms for the duration of your journey
Takayama Spring Festival
Alpine route (with the snow wall)
Fuji Shibazakura Flower Festival
The Highlights of Japan in three weeks

For me, 1 April 2015 was the right starting date for this Highlights of Japan itinerary as I was in Takayama for the spring festival, did the alpine route in the first week after it opened, and caught the early stages of the flower festival near Mount Fuji.

When you’re planning your own itinerary, I recommend starting with the date the Alpine route opens for visitors. After that, you check the dates of the festivals in Takayama and near Mount Fuji and plan the days in between. In front of this part of your itinerary, you add fourteen days for the first part of the trip (or less if you want a shorter itinerary).

If you’re traveling to Japan in another season you’re less time-bound and can plan your trip more freely.

Japan itinerary outline

Tokyo: Day 1
Hamamatsu: Day 2
Himeji: Day 3
Fukuoka: Day 4
Aso: Day 5 – 6
Yufuin and Beppu: Day 7 – 8
Hiroshima: Day 9
Osaka and Kyoto: Day 10 – 11
Nakatsugawa: Day 12 – 13
Takayama: Day 14 – 16
Toyama: Day 17
Omachi Onsen: Day 18
Matsumoto: Day 19 – 20
Fujikawaguchiko: Day 21 – 22
Tokyo: Day 23

Practical information including transport info and detailed budget.

To shorten your trip, you can take days off your stay in Fujikawaguchiko, Matsumoto, and Takayama.

Japan itinerary map

You can find all the places mentioned in this itinerary in my Highlights of Japan Google map.

Tokyo

Traveling time: 1 hour 20 minutes by train and subway from the airport to the hotel

Day 1: Shinjuku Gyoen, Shinjuku, Kabukichō

The first day of your trip. After your arrival at Narita or Haneda airport, pick up your Japan Rail Pass at the JR counter. This might take some time (1 – 2 hours waiting time in April 2015). Alternatively, you can pick your pass up the next day at Shinjuku Train Station and pay for a train ticket to Shinjuku separately.

JR Pass and Pasmo/Suica About the J(apan) R(ail) Pass: you need to order one from home before you fly to Japan. They will send you a voucher which you can exchange for a JR Pass at the airport and at some train stations. You can also order a preloaded public transport card (Pasmo or Suica) with the JR Pass, which they will send to your home. You can choose either a Pasmo or Suica pass for this itinerary: they can be used interchangeably in public transport and convenience stores.

Take the train from the airport to Shinjuku train station (about an hour). Shinjuku is one of the busiest train and subway stations in Japan: if you can handle Shinjuku, then the rest of your Japan itinerary will be a blast. And if Shinjuku proves a challenge, don’t worry, you’ll soon get the hang of it. Every other station on this trip will be much easier. On my first roundtrip in Japan, I had trouble navigating Shinjuku (and finding the exit) on the day I arrived in Japan but on my second trip to Kyushu and Yakushima, I navigated the station with ease.

Head to your hotel first to check in and then walk to Shinjuku Gyoen for a relaxing afternoon in the park. If you are visiting in April: Shinjuku Gyoen is one of the prime spots for Sakura (cherry blossom) watching. And a beautiful park at that. Around noon you will see many office workers having a picnic in the park, which ended up being a very iconic sight for every park visit in Japan.

One of my favorite things to do in April in Japan is to watch Japanese people marveling at Cherry Blossom. After returning home, I paid more attention to the cherry blossom trees in my country. I stood under them for a few minutes enjoying their beauty and taking pictures. I was the only one.

When evening falls, head to the big shopping area northeast of Shinjuku station to do some shopping and be impressed by the huge buildings with neon signs on them. This area is brilliant at night: vibrant, colorful, and fun to explore. In Kabukichō you can see the ‘red-light district’. Don’t worry though: it is a very light version, mainly for tourists. Unless you go in, you won’t see anything other than some neon signs and billboards.

Where to eat in Shinjuku

Ainu restaurant Harukoro: a very small restaurant with nice ambience and good food. The food is from the Ainu (indigenous people of Hokkaido) cuisine.

Tonkatsu at Katsukura (Takashimaya 14F): the best tonkatsu I had in my two trips to Japan.

Where to stay in Tokyo

I recommend staying in the Shinjuku neighborhood the first time you visit Tokyo. The location is great for first-time visitors and you will be within walking distance from many interesting sites like Kabukichō and Shinjuku Gyoen. The nearby Shinjuku train and subway station is well connected and will get you to other parts of Tokyo quickly. From here you can also take the train to many other cities nearby.

If you are looking for a budget / mid-range hotel I recommend Hotel Wing International Premium Tokyo Yotsuya, which is only a few minutes’ walk from the park Shinjuku Gyoen. Almost opposite the hotel is the subway exit of Yotsuya-sanchome, one stop away from Shinjuku train station, but you can easily walk from the train station to the hotel. The hotel is clean and the rooms are pretty spacious for a Japanese hotel.

I’d also like to give a non-recommendation here: my second time staying in Shinjuku I rented a room at Royal Hotel Shinokubo. This hotel lies in a great area (a vibrant Korea town), probably the area I enjoyed staying at the most in Tokyo but caused me some inconveniences. For one: there is no elevator taking you from street level to the reception of the hotel. Normally I don’t mind this very much, but at the end of my roundtrip my luggage was really heavy. But more importantly, the hotel room was very stuffy with lots of dust (irritating my airways) and I think there were bugs in the bed that caused itching for weeks.

Other than that, the area around Shin-Okubo subway station is a great place to stay! There are many interesting restaurants and stores selling souvenirs, like the Don-Quijote. The area around Okubo-dori is lots of fun at night.

Tip: Japanese hotel rooms

If this is your first visit to Japan please take note of the following: Western-style rooms in Japanese hotels are tiny. With a king or queen-sized bed, the walls will be almost directly against your bedposts. Any other double bed is only a little bigger than a single bed. It will be hard to store your luggage.

I recommend renting a twin bedroom if you want a Western-style room. This will give you some breathing room. Alternatively, you can rent a Japanese-style room. These will feel much more spacious as there are no beds taking up most of the space in the room. It will also be much easier to store your luggage.

For solo travelers, Japan is a great destination as they offer single-person rooms in many cities for a lower price than double/twin rooms. You can also try their famous capsule hotels that often come with spa access included. But only if you can handle confined spaces…

What to read in Tokyo

Ryu Murakami - In the Miso Soup

 4/5

An American tourist touring Tokyo’s nightlife. If you’re going to Kabuchiko in Tokyo, don’t skip this one.

It is just before New Year’s. Frank, an overweight American tourist, has hired Kenji to take him on a guided tour of Tokyo’s sleazy nightlife on three successive evenings. But Frank’s behavior is so strange that Kenji begins to entertain a horrible suspicion: that his new client is in fact the serial killer currently terrorizing the city. It isn’t until later, however, that Kenji learns exactly how much he has to fear and how irrevocably his encounter with this great white whale of an American will change his life.

Buy from Amazon

Sayaka Murata - Convenience Store Woman

 4/5

A must-read if you also hop in and out of convenience stores when traveling in Japan (and other Asian countries).

Keiko Furukura had always been considered a strange child, and her parents always worried how she would get on in the real world, so when she takes on a job in a convenience store while at university, they are delighted for her. For her part, in the convenience store she finds a predictable world mandated by the store manual, which dictates how the workers should act and what they should say, and she copies her coworkers’ style of dress and speech patterns so she can play the part of a normal person. However, eighteen years later, at age 36, she is still in the same job, has never had a boyfriend, and has only few friends. She feels comfortable in her life but is aware that she is not living up to society’s expectations and causing her family to worry about her. When a similarly alienated but cynical and bitter young man comes to work in the store, he will upset Keiko’s contented stasis—but will it be for the better?

Buy from Amazon

Many other good Japanese books are (partly) set in Tokyo as well.

Hamamatsu

Traveling time: 2 hours 40 minutes by subway and shinkansen to the hotel in Hamamatsu

Day 2: Meiji Jingu Gyoen, Harajuku, Shibuya, Unadon in Hamamatsu

In the morning you will explore the Shibuya and Harajuku neighborhoods of Japan. Leave your luggage at the hotel so you can pick it up when you’re ready to leave Tokyo. The first stop will be the Meiji Jingu park and shrine. You can either walk there in 30 minutes from your hotel and see more of the area or take the subway to Yoyogi Station (change subway line at Yotsuya station) and reach the park in 20 minutes.

After a nice walk in the forest, you reach Meiji Jingu in the middle of the park. Meiji Jingu is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife Empress Shōken. The shrine itself is not big, but the park surrounding it is.

Slowly make your way south and exit the park at the eastern side to visit Takeshita Street in Harajuku, a neighborhood known for its colorful streets and youth fashion. All around you, you will find crêpes and bubble tea shops. Inside the malls, there are some very picture-worthy seating areas where you can enjoy a drink. I feel conflicted about the ‘fashion’: some of it was colorful, but many stores sell brownish tapestry-like dresses.

Walk to the area northwest of Shibuya Station to see the famous Shibuya Crossing and to go shopping in the area. In front of Shibuya Station exit A8, you can find Hachikō Memorial Statue, a statue for the Akita dog that was known for his loyalty for his owner.

When you’re ready to leave Tokyo behind (at least for now), take the subway back to your hotel to pick up your luggage. From there, take the subway (Marunouchi line) to Tokyo Station and get on the Shinkansen to Hamamatsu.

Why Hamamatsu? Because it is known for its Unadon dish: steamed white rice with grilled caramelized eel. Easily one of my favorite Japanese dishes. Plus it is great fun visiting a city other tourists don’t go to. At a 2-3 hour distance from the hotel in Tokyo, it is the perfect distance to cover after spending the morning and part of the afternoon in Tokyo.

As you walk from Hamamatsu train station to your hotel in ten minutes, you will pretty much cover the city center and ‘shopping’ area. When you go out again for dinner, you can explore the rest.

Where to stay in Hamamatsu

Hamamatsu is a backwater city, but perfect for one night and an evening enjoying the local specialty: Unadon.

A good budget-friendly hotel is Kuretake-Inn Central Hamamatsu. Nothing fancy, but it has all you need for one night: clean rooms and a basic Japanese and Western buffet breakfast. At ~35 EUR per room per night that is a bargain.

Himeji

Traveling time: 2 hours 20 minutes by train to Yamazaki Whisky Distillery; 1 hour 30 minutes by train and Shinkansen to the hotel in Himeji

Day 3: Yamazaki Whisky Distillery, Himeji Castle

If you like whisky, then today will be a treat as you will visit Yamazaki Whisky Distillery. For those of you who don’t like whisky: just go to Himeji directly to explore the castle and use the bicycles of the hotel to see more of the area.

The Distillery is at a ten minutes’ walk from Yamazaki Station. You can leave your luggage at the front gate for safekeeping.

A visit to Yamazaki Whisky Distillery is only allowed if you have a reservation. You can book either a free tour or one of the paid tours up to two months in advance. I recommend “The Story of Yamazaki” tour (daily 13:00 – 14:40, not available between January 8 and March 31, 2020) as you will be able to see the production process. The tour is in Japanese, but you can download the Audio Guide App in English, Chinese and French. If you are under the age of 20 or traveling with kids, then you can only visit the museum, shop and tasting counter. That’s what the website says at least, there were young kids going into the distillery on my tour.

You can find more information about the tours and closing days on the Yamazaki Whisky Distillery website.

Behind the tasting counter, you can visit the whisky gallery. This is the best spot for taking pictures.

Yamazaki Whisky Distillery tasting

At the end of the two paid tours, they’ll let you taste some of their younger whiskys (Hakushu and Yamazaki) for free. You can make your way to the tasting counter afterward to try some more (paid). I used this opportunity to try the 25-year-old Hakushu and 25-year-old Yamazaki.

Unexpectedly, they tasted awful! The 18-year-old versions are the best they produce, but something went wrong in the seven years after that. This really surprised me. So if you have never tried the 18-year-old and 25-year-old versions, then I recommend tasting the 18-year-old ones. They also have some grain-based drinks that taste really good. Enjoy!

To Himeji

Pick up your luggage after your visit and take the train and Shinkansen to Himeji Station. Your hotel is only a ten minutes’ walk from the train station and leads you through the main shopping and restaurant area in the center of Himeji.

Himeji castle, the attraction Himeji is best known for, is only a five minutes’ walk from your hotel. This white castle is especially beautiful in the cherry blossom period. When I visited there was some festival going on with music performances, lots of sake and snacks.

Where to stay in Himeji

Hotel Wing International Himeji is a good budget hotel at a prime location close to Himeji Castle and the covered shopping street running from Himeji Station to Himeji Castle.

Fukuoka

Traveling time: 2 hours and 50 minutes by train and subway to Fukuoka.

Day 4: Hakata Ramen, Fukuoka Canal City, Hakata Train Station, Fukuoka Castle Ruins, Nakasu Street Stalls

Take the train to Fukuoka’s Hakata Station and from there the subway to Nakasukawabata Station.

When you get off the subway you’re right in front of Ichiran’s Tenjin branch where you can eat the local specialty after checking into your hotel: Hakata Ramen; the pork noodles soup from the Fukuoka area.

Forwarding luggage

The luggage forwarding service is very popular in Japan. It is cheap, yet costs too much for everyday use (unless you prefer more luxurious travel and allocate a budget for it). The costs depend on the size of your luggage and the forwarding distance. For a 75cm suitcase, forwarding costs about 15 EUR/USD.

As you will visit Mount Aso tomorrow directly from Aso train station, I recommend using the luggage forwarding service today. Your hotel can probably send it for you or direct you to a convenience store nearby. Make sure to fill in the forms and drop off your luggage before 4 PM. Keep an overnight bag / small travel bag with you for tonight and tomorrow.

Exploring Fukuoka

Visit Canal City shopping mall in the morning and continue your shopping spree at Hakata Train Station. If you’re planning to buy some very touristy Japanese souvenirs for your loved ones, then this is one of the best places to do so on this trip. It’s not a good idea to buy the heavy stuff yet but some regional sheet masks, socks, t-shirts, and KitKats shouldn’t weigh you down too much.

Afterward, head over to the nearby castle to explore Fukuoka Castle Ruins and Ohori park.

Slowly make your way to the harbor so you can view the city from high above from the observation deck of Fukuoka Tower. You can buy your ticket in advance so you won’t have to wait in line.

Dinner tonight is at the Nakasu Street Stalls (Yatai). These stalls are located along the canal and attract a lot of people at night. Some of the dishes you can try here are yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), oden (hot pot noodles), a variety of dumplings, and Hakata Ramen. Just take a seat at one of the stalls and strike up a conversation with the people around you.

Also read: How to spend one day in Nagasaki

Where to stay in Fukuoka

My second time in Fukuoka I stayed at Hotel WBF Fukuoka Nakasu near Nakasukawabata subway station in the Tenjin area. This hotel is within walking distance from Ichiran, the food stalls, Canal City, and Hakata train station. I enjoyed my stay at the hotel after an initial discussion about the price; they had to call some people to confirm the amount on my booking reservation over the amount they usually charge.

In the lobby of the hotel, you can choose your shampoo and conditioner for the night, which is a very nice touch and a good opportunity to try Japanese brands. The rooms were clean and because I booked a twin room, big enough for two people and two suitcases.

A slightly cheaper option that I used on my first trip is Hotel MyStays Fukuoka Tenjin. This hotel is in the same neighborhood and offers clean rooms. Nothing special, but a very good option if you’re not planning on spending any time inside.

Aso

Traveling time: 3 hours 20 minutes by subway, Shinkansen, train, and bus to your hotel in Aso.

Because the weather was bad on my first visit to Aso (I couldn’t even visit the crater!), naturally I had to return to Aso. The account in this itinerary is from the second time I visited Aso. On this trip to Kyushu, I used a rental car, but I’ll assume travel by public transport for this itinerary.

Day 5: Mount Aso

Take the Shinkansen from Hakata station to Kumamoto station and switch to the smaller JR train to Aso Train Station. For those of you who love Harry Potter: if the sky is grey and cloudy, this feels like you’re taking the Hogwarts Express.

Take the bus from Aso Train Station to Asosan-nishi station. In about thirty minutes this bus takes you to the crater of Mount Aso. Keep an eye on the time as the bus only goes seven times a day and the last bus leaves the crater at 16:25.

Mount Aso is the largest active volcano in Japan and one of the biggest calderas in the world. One of the peaks, Nakadake, continuously emits smoke and you will need to check the current status to see if you can visit.

There are many walking paths at the top that you can take to see more of the area. I especially liked the view of the mountains from a path of dark sand and rocks with tiny orange bushes.

Back at Aso Train Station, you can catch a bus to your hotel.

Day 6: Takachiho Gorge, Amano Iwato Shrine, Amano Yasukawara

Takachiho Gorge and the shrines are some of the sites you simply can’t miss around Aso. After the 2016 earthquake, it became a bit harder to visit the sites on your own, but you can still join a tour. Unfortunately, you can’t get to the starting point in time by train, so you’ll have to take a cab to Higo-Ozu train station. In the afternoon you can take the train back to Aso.

Alternatively, you can take the bus from Tateno to visit Takachiho Gorge. This will require good timing as there are only two buses a day. Another bus can take you from Takachiho Gorge to the shrines and back again (once every 1-2 hours).

Takachiho Gorge is best known for its very blue water surrounded by high cliffs. You can take a boat and watch the gorge from below or walk along the stream for a different perspective.

Near Takachiho Gorge you can visit Amano Iwato Shrine and Amano Yasukawara. Both shrines are at a beautiful location along a stream, surrounded by trees and make you feel like you’re far away from society.

From Amano Iwato Shrine you follow the path lined with shops (take-out ice cream) and a stream resembling a mini Takachiho Gorge to a remote temple (Amano Yasukawara) built in a cave. In the cave you can see the wooden shrine and many piles of stones, making you feel like a recluse at the perfect photo stop.

Where to stay in Aso

I recommend Tsuruya. A small word of caution ahead: this is not a budget option. This is the luxury stay I always treat myself with once or twice every trip. I rented a Japanese room with a private hot spring bath in the garden and a multi-course breakfast and dinner included.

And it was worth it. A very relaxing stay where everything is taken care of. Lots of space for moving around and a hot spring resort experience (that is not a thousand euros per night) at a traditional Japanese house.

On another trip to Japan, I stayed at a hotel across the street. Both hotels provide a similar experience. So, see if you can book one nice hotel in the Aso area to treat yourself for a trip going well.

Yufuin

Traveling time: 2 and a half hours by bus

Alternatively, you can stay in Beppu and visit Yufuin as a day trip.

Day 7: Tadewara wetlands, Yufuin

At Aso train station, you can take the bus to Yufuin. This bus takes you on a sightseeing tour over the mountain pass through the Kuju Mountains. Halfway you can get off at Chojabaru Visitor Center for a short walk through the Tadewara wetlands. From the wooden boardwalk, you have a good view of the mountain range and you can try to spot some birds in the reeds. Or you can go for a longer hike, it’s all up to you!

You have to reserve your seat on the bus in advance (two reservations if you want to get off the bus to visit Tadewara wetlands).

Explore Yufuin’s Yunotsubo Street in the afternoon. Yufuin basically has one shopping street with stores selling handicrafts and food. At the end of this street, you will find Kinrin Lake in front of Mount Yufu marking the end of the town. Yufuin has a very artistic feel to it and there are many museums to visit.

The town is best known for its hot springs. So make sure to book the right hotel to make optimal use of the healthy natural springs in Yufuin!

Day 8: Day trip to Beppu

Take the same bus line as yesterday to the Kannawa Onsen bus stop in Beppu.

Kannawa Onsen is the starting point for a visit to most of the Beppu hells. You can buy a passe-partout for all hells at any of the Hells for 2100 Yen.

In no particular order you will visit:

White Lake Hell (Shiraike Jigoku): a milky white pond with a small garden surrounding it.
Mountain Monster Hell (Onimaya Jigoku): a small pool with crocodiles in tiny cages. Skippable!
Cooking Pot Hell (Kamado Jigoku): small green pond where you can enjoy a food bath and eat steamed egg and tofu.
Mountain Hell (Yama Jigoku): small pool with animals in small cages. Not worth a visit in my opinion.
Ocean Hell (Umi Jigoku): a beautiful pond with tropical blue color.
Monk Hell (Oniishibozu Jigoku): mud pools with bubbles. A very interesting Hell to visit.

After visiting these five hells of Beppu, you can take the bus or walk in thirty minutes to the location of the remaining two hells. I recommend walking, as the path will lead you through a quiet Japanese neighborhood with many things to see.

The remaining two hells:

Blood Pond Hell (Chinike Jikogu): a hot, red pool with beautiful plants at the edge. This one is great for taking pictures.
Geyser Hell (Tatsumaki Jigoku): a boiling hot geyser that sprouts twice per hour.

All Beppu Hells have good souvenir shops, but the best are at these last two hells. This is where I bought my very own red demon amulet that decorates my Christmas tree in December.

You can buy a ticket for all Beppu Hells for 2100 Yen or pay 550 Yen entrance fee per hell. I think most of the hells are worth visiting, so buying a combined ticket is cheaper in the end.

After visiting the Beppu Hells you can catch the bus back to Yufuin from Kannawa Onsen bus station (make sure to reserve your seat).

Also read: Kyushu and Yakushima itinerary

Where to stay in Yufuin

Hasuwa Inn is situated 50 meters from the Oita river at a 10 minutes’ walk from Yufuin Station. This ryokan offers modest Japanese rooms and basic Japanese breakfast at a good price. Why should you absolutely stay at Hasuwa Ryokan? Because of its beautiful outdoor hot spring baths. You can go to one of the two baths and lock the door for privacy. Now you (and your party) can enjoy the small bath in the open air.

Where to stay in Beppu

I stayed in a Japanese room at Umikaoru Yado Hotel New Matsumi. The Japanese room is very big: you get two rooms basically. The hotel has public hot spring baths and free breakfast is included.

The hotel is at a very good location near Beppu train station and bus lines to Kannawa Onsen. You will find yourself surrounded by awesome small bars and pubs for dinner. Another thing worth mentioning: one of the staff members spoke very good English. I was really impressed. I don’t know if she will be there during your visit but for us, it meant a very smooth check-in experience.

Hiroshima

Traveling time: 3 and a half hours by train, Shinkansen, and tram or bus.

Day 9: Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park, Hondori Shopping District

Take the train from Yufuin station to Kurume Station and from there the Shinkansen to Hiroshima Station. Alternatively, you can take a longer route (+30 min) and switch trains at Oita Station and Kokura Station so you can see what the northern coastline of Kyushu Island looks like.

From Hiroshima station, you can catch the bus or tram to your hotel. My Pasmo/Suica card didn’t work on this bus, so keep some change on you as a precaution.

Hiroshima is probably best known for being hit by an atomic bomb during the Second World War. But Hiroshima is more than just a target of a past war. It is a modern city with a vibrant shopping area.

Still, you probably won’t be visiting Hiroshima if you’re not interested in seeing the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park. You will see thousands of folded cranes and read about personal experiences. The most iconic building is the ruin of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall also known as the Peace Memorial. This building was the only structure left standing near the bomb’s hypocenter.

Hiroshima is also a good city for shopping. What surprised me the most about this city were the outfits of the people: they were more colorful than the grey/black suit ocean you see in other Japanese cities. Enjoy your evening at Hondori Shopping District.

Where to stay in Hiroshima

I stayed at Hotel Sunroute Hiroshima (now called Sotetsu Grand Fresa Hiroshima) across the bridge from Hiroshima’s Memorial Peace Park at what I believe to be the best location to stay in Hiroshima. From here everything is within walking distance. The rooms were comfortable and the breakfast buffet at this hotel was very good.

Osaka

Traveling time: 45 minutes by bus, train, and ferry to Miyajima and two hours by train to Osaka.

Day 10: Miyajima, Osaka Dotonburi

With a thirty minutes’ train ride from Hiroshima Station, you can reach Miyajimaguchi Station. See if you can leave your luggage at Hiroshima Station to pick up after you return from Miyajima.

Miyajima is a small island (also called Itsukushima) known for its forests and shrines. The most famous site is probably the great Torii Gate just offshore. With high tide, this shrine is partly submerged.

On the island, you can take one of the many hiking trails that will show you the most beautiful sites. With a two hour walk, you can hike to Mount Misen for a nice view. If you feel less active it is also possible to take the Miyajima Ropeway that will take you very close to the summit.

Head back to the mainland and make your way to Shin-Osaka Station after picking up your luggage at Hiroshima Station.

The evening is for exploring the Dotonburi area near Nambo subway station. This is where the neon billboards are that you see on nearly every photo of Osaka. It is a very touristy place and the prices of meals at the restaurants are higher than in other areas in Osaka but it is still fun to visit.

Day 11: Daytrip Kyoto, Fushimi Inari, Golden Pavilion, Geisha district

Tip: send your luggage to the hotel in Nakatsugawa so you won’t have to bring it with you on day 12.

Today you will go on a cultural day trip to Kyoto. This city has great historical value. Not only because of the many temples, shrines and historical places but also because it is the former capital of Japan.

Kyoto is a very popular tourist destination. After exploring Kyushu for a week you will notice the difference as all the must-see sites in Kyoto are very crowded. Catch an early train from Osaka and decide which tourist site is most important to you so you can go there first thing in the morning to beat the crowd. I chose Fushimi Inari.

After arriving at Kyoto Station, switch to the train to Nara for two stops and get off at Inari Station. This station is right in front of the path to Fushimi Inari, an important Shinto Shrine with thousands of vermilion Torii Gates. Walk under the gates until you find a quiet spot without people to take beautiful pictures or go all the way up the mountain for a view of the city from above.

From Fushimi Inari you can take the train back to Kyoto Station and hop on the bus that takes you to Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) in the northern part of Kyoto. The beautiful pictures tourists bring back from this place never show the huge crowd trudging along the path set out for them. But as with Fushimi Inari, the view of the golden pavilion is worth it.

Hop on the bus again to visit the Kyoto Imperial Palace where the emperor resided between 794 and 1868. This palace and garden still show the serenity that the modern part of Kyoto lost.

From the imperial palace, you can walk south (or take to bus again) until Hanamikoji Street to visit the renowned Geisha district of Kyoto. It will be easy to spot Geisha’s here (at least in 2015 it was). Please don’t intrude on their personal space and be respectful when you take pictures.

Where to stay in Osaka

Shin-Osaka Sunny Stone Hotel is located near Shin-Osaka Station from which you have easy access to Osaka’s subway network and trains to other cities. It is the ideal base for exploring Osaka and Kyoto, as Kyoto is only a 15 minutes’ Shinkansen ride away. From the hotel, you can walk in 17 minutes to Shin-Osaka Station or take the subway for one stop to get there quicker. The hotel itself is inexpensive and has everything you need for two nights.

Alternatively, you can stay in Kyoto and go on a day trip to Osaka. I chose Osaka because the hotels were more affordable.

Nakatsugawa

Traveling time: one hour by train to Nara and two and a half hours by Shinkansen, train, and bus to Nakatsugawa.

Day 12: Nara

After a short train ride you reach Nara, a city packed with temples, beautiful gardens, and historical sites. Nara, formerly called Heijo, was the first permanent capital of Japan and that is also the reason you can find so many historical treasures in the area.

First head to the Todaiji Temple at the northern side of Nara-koen park. Here you can see the Big Buddha Hall and explore the temple grounds. You’ll also encounter the wild deer roaming the Nara-koen park.

Nearby you can visit Isuien Garden, which integrated Todaiji’s Nandaimon Gate into its beautiful scenery.

If you feel active you can hike up Mount Wakakusa. In fifteen minutes you can reach the plateau and from there it is only half an hour to the top of the mountain. This hike is especially beautiful in April when you can watch cherry blossoms while walking up the grassy slope.

After exploring the southern side of Nara-koen, head back in the direction of the train station for a visit to Kofukuji Temple, the ancient family temple of the Fujiwara clan, built in the 700s.

It’s time to catch the train to Nakatsugawa.

Day 13: Magome - Tsumago Hiking Trail

Tsumago and Magome are two of the best-preserved post towns in Japan. When you follow the Magome – Tsumago Hiking Trail, you are following the footsteps of the trader’s of old. Both towns are on the Nakasendo trade route that connected Tokyo to Kyoto in the Edo period.

Take the local train from Nakatsugawa station to Tsumago. Here you walk up the path through the village, giving you the feeling you’ve stepped back in time. At the end of the village, you can start your hike to Magome town or alternatively wait on the road near the bus stop for the bus that will take you there. The buses are infrequent, but I easily saw two in 20-30 minutes. Another possibility is to walk part of the trail and catch the bus at another bus stop (basically whenever the path intersects with the main road).

Magome is much quieter than Tsumago. Whereas Tsumago makes you feel you’re in the middle of a bustling trading town, Magome gives off this remote small-town feeling. That’s what makes it so interesting to visit both.

After exploring Magome you can either hike back to Tsumago or take the bus (the last bus leaves pretty early!). Another tip: if you’re heading back to Nakatsugawa, take a taxi for a scenic route.

Also read: Best Japanese books with English translation

Where to stay in Nakatsugawa

While it might be more interesting to stay in Tsumago, Nakatsugawa is easily the cheaper option. I thought it would be cool to stay in a city where no one ever stays. And it was really funny as I could not find anything to do there at all except for a walk through the neighborhood to explore a city that doesn’t get many tourists (on a rainy day!).

Nakatsugawa is at a very practical location, but it doesn’t make for an interesting stop.

I stayed at Hotel Route Inn Nakatsugawa Inter which was perfectly nondescript and yet a very convenient place to stay at.

Takayama

Traveling time: three hours and fifteen minutes using three trains.

Day 14: Takayama Old Town

Time to head to Takayama! The train ride to Takayama was easily one of the more interesting ones of my trip. You have to switch trains twice at Tajimi and Minoota, two train stations that are literally in the middle of ‘where am I’ and ‘if I miss the train will I ever get out of here’. But then you get on the third train and the scenery takes your breath away. The train treats you to a sightseeing tour through valleys, along rivers and mountains.

And at the end lies Takayama, a town with beautiful historical buildings, sake and miso shops and most importantly: the Takayama Festival you’ll visit tomorrow.

But for tonight: explore the town and enjoy the many interesting souvenir shops. Further away from the train station you will find the beautifully preserved Old Town, an area with preserved Edo-period houses and the historical quarter for shopping and dining. Here you can visit sake distilleries and shops specialized in miso. Alternatively, there are also some good tea houses if you’re craving something less alcoholic.

Day 15: Takayama Festival and Castle Ruins

Takayama is a beautiful mountain village in the Japanese Alps. The historical houses alone make it worth a visit, but if you time it right you can also enjoy Takayama’s famous festival (in spring and autumn)

At the festival, you can see the festival floats that tour the streets of the Old Town. There are also many performances: plays, music, and dances. Some of them are even performed on top of the festival floats. At the shops along the road, you can buy snacks and drinks.

During my visit, the festivities almost got canceled because of the bad weather. But fortunately, it stopped raining in the afternoon and they could take the festival floats out on the streets.

In the afternoon you can explore Takayama Castle Ruins.

Day 16: Shirakawa-go and Ainokura day trip

Today you will visit the traditional villages of Ainokura (in Gokayama) and Shirakawa-go, two UNESCO world heritage sites. You can use regular buses to get from Takayama to these villages or join a tour that will help you combine the two world heritage sites.

On the tour, the bus will first take you to Ainokura village. You can take a walk in the village to see the traditional houses (it was 20 degrees Celsius even though you see snow on the pictures) and follow the road to the viewing point to look at the village from above. Compared to Shirakawa-go, this village is very small, but that just makes it very quiet and peaceful.

From there the bus will take you to Shirakawa-go Observatory for a delicious Japanese lunch. At the observatory, you have a good view of the whole village and the rice fields surrounding them.

After lunch, you’ll get some free time in the village. This is the perfect opportunity to buy some souvenirs (like my favorite soba tea) and admire the architecture of the houses. Even though this village attracts many tourists each day, at the outskirts of the village you can still get that small-town feeling.

Near the bus parking lot, you can also visit Gassho Zukuri Folklore Park and observe the traditional houses from within.

Where to stay in Takayama

The ideal place to stay is between the train station and Takayama Old Town: you’ll be right in the middle of all the shops and everything is within walking distance. I stayed at the budget hotel: Super Hotel Hida Takayama. Make sure to book your hotel in time if you’re planning your visit around the Takayama Festival.

Toyama

Traveling time: an hour and a half by train.

Day 17: Toyama Castle and Iwasekoshi beach or a day trip to Kanazawa

After arriving in Toyama, check-in at your hotel and drop off your luggage at the desk to have it forwarded to your next hotel in the Omachi Onsen area. On day 18, your luggage will follow the same Alpine Route as you, albeit separately so that you can travel lightly and enjoy the trip.

If you want to take a short break from trains and travel, you can spend the rest of this day in Toyama. First head to Toyama Castle in the middle of the city. At the site, there is this lovely area where you can sit down to read a book while sneaking a peek at the castle every now and then.

You can also take the tram to the Iwasekoshi beach north of Toyama. It’s a great place for a quiet and relaxing stroll.

Alternatively, you can take the train to Kanazawa to visit Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan’s three most beautiful landscape gardens. This is also a very good spot for watching cherry trees.

Where to stay in Toyama

Because you need to leave early in the morning on day 18 to make it to Tateyama Station (where you start the Alpine Route) in time, the best place to stay is within a fifteen minutes’ walking distance from Dentetsutoyama Station. I stayed at Toyama Manten Hotel which is only an eleven minutes’ walk from the train station and also near Toyama Castle.

Omachi Onsen

Traveling time: an hour by train to Tateyama Station, six hours on the Alpine Route, and half an hour by bus to your hotel.

Day 18: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route

This route is only possible between the second half of April and the end of November each year. Make sure to reserve your tickets in advance, because they only allow a certain amount of people to start the route each hour.

Before the day is over you will have traveled by cable car, bus, tunnel trolley bus, ropeway, cable car, and another tunnel bus. If you do this trip in April, you’ll be able to see the famous snow corridor. It is very impressive to walk in between this 20 meters tall snow corridor.

The first bus takes you to the Midagahara and Murodo viewpoint. During this ride, your bus first towers above the heaps of snow at the side of the road, but slowly the snow corridor will grow taller and taller and tower above the bus. At the viewpoint, it can be below 0 degrees Celsius (-9 on my visit), which can be quite a difference with the 20 degrees in Toyama. Because the temperature will soon rise again after you leave the viewpoint it is fine to go up with many ‘summer’ layers (like a fleece sweater, summer coat, and hat) instead of going full winter gear which you’d have to carry around for many days.

From the ropeway, you have a good view of the mountains and valley. I think this part will be most gorgeous in summer and autumn when the trees have leaves in various colors.

In the end, you get to walk on the Kurobe Dam before you reach the last tunnel bus. The whole route takes about six hours to complete.

Along the route, you can take some time to enjoy the snow or go hiking (again, probably more fun in summer).

At Ogizawa you can catch a bus to the Omachi Onsen area where you can relax in the outdoor hot spring at your hotel.

Where to stay in Omachi Onsen

Finally, another onsen area! See if you can book a hotel in the Omachi Onsen area. This area is easily reached by bus from the end of the Alpine Route. There are many hotels in this area. I stayed at Hotel Karamatsuso: not too expensive, but with a very good dinner and breakfast and two lovely outdoor pools (one for men, one for women).

Matsumoto

Traveling time: fifteen minutes by bus to the train station and an hour by train from Shinano-Omachi station.

Day 19: Matsumoto Castle and town

After a day of traveling it is always good to compensate with shorter travel time. Relax in your hot spring hotel until it is time to check out and then catch the bus to nearby Shinano-Omachi Station. From here you can catch the train to Matsumoto.

The highlight of Matsumoto is Matsumoto Castle, my favorite castle in Japan! A beautiful black (crow) castle with a red bridge. Explore all the floors in the castle and take a walk on the castle grounds. As this castle attracts fewer visitors than for example Himeji Castle, it is quite easy to take good pictures without other people obscuring the view.

Nearby you can visit the former Kaichi School, one of the first schools of its kind in Japan housed in an interesting building that now functions as a museum.

You end your day with a soba noodle dish with fresh wasabi that you have to grate yourself. If you order hot sake with your dish, you might end up with fish in your drink. Eventually, the fish will taste of sake and the sake will taste like drunken fish!

Also read: 10 situations to experience in Japan

Day 20: Wasabi farm, Nawate-dori and Timepiece museum

North of Matsumoto you can visit a Wasabi farm. A very unique place to visit, as wasabi is a hard plant to grow. When you order sushi at home, the wasabi you get will most likely be horseradish instead of the real thing. So see if you can get some fresh wasabi with your meal when eating out in Matsumoto.

Take the train to Hotaka Station or Akashina Station and then the bus (or walk) to Daio Wasabi Farm. At the farm, you can see how wasabi is grown and taste a variety of products and meals containing wasabi. Walking trails lead you from field to field along the river stream with water wheels and to the Daio Shrine.

In the late afternoon, you can explore Matsumoto city, go shopping in the traditional shopping street Nawate-dori and visit the Timepiece Museum which houses the largest pendulum clock in Japan.

Where to stay in Matsumoto

Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu is a hotel very close to Matsumoto Castle and Nawate-dori. There’s also a great soba noodle restaurant around the corner. The train station is only a ten to fifteen minutes walk away. All in all, the perfect location for exploring Matsumoto.

Fujikawaguchiko

Traveling time: three hours and fifteen minutes by train. The hotel can pick you up at the train station or you can walk to your hotel in thirty minutes.

Day 21: Fujikawaguchiko lake and Mount Fuji

Today you’ll spend some hours on multiple trains, gazing at the beautiful landscape outside. When you arrive at Fujikawaguchiko train station, you can either walk to your hotel or arrange a pick-up. The road along the shore of the lake is lined with many small stores selling fun things and delicacies.

In the afternoon you can take the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway to the observatory for a great view and some lovely pictures with, for example, Tenjo Bell.

Day 22: Fuji Shibazakura Festival

The Fuji Shibazakura Flower Festival is held every year in spring, from mid-April to early June. Near Lake Motosuko, at the foot of Mount Fuji, you can see hundreds of thousands of pink flowers (moss phlox) covering the ground, creating a beautiful pink flower field.

When you go early in the season (I went in the first week) not many flowers will be blooming yet and the field won’t be as pink as weeks later, but the festival is still worth a visit because it just feels good to walk in between flower fields.

At the festival, you can try many flower-themed snacks like ice creams, cakes, and drinks.

To get there you can take one of the many daily buses from Fujikawaguchiko train station.

As this is the last day before returning to the bustling metropole Tokyo, enjoy the peace and quiet of Fujikawaguchiko. Take a stroll along the lake, watch the cherry blossoms, and buy lots of trinkets at the stores that you don’t actually need. When evening falls, head back to your hotel and relax in the hot spring of your hotel before treating yourself to a very good multiple course meal.

Where to stay in Fujikawaguchiko

I recommend staying at the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchiko because you can view both the lake and Mount Fuji from your hotel window or balcony. I stayed at Mizno Hotel, a hotel with a beautiful location on the northern shore. From both my balcony and hot spring bath on the upper floors of the hotel, I had a great view of Mount Fuji. This also resulted in me gazing at the mountain at 4 AM, because that happened to be the hour the sky suddenly cleared and the mountain became visible (during the day there were too many clouds). And I wasn’t the only one! Apparently, other guests were keeping an eye out for the most beautiful view of the lake and mountain.

Mizno hotel is not a budget hotel, but my stay here was one of my favorites of the trip because of the view, the balcony, and the great food they served. Sometimes you should just treat yourself, right?

Tokyo

Traveling time: less than two hours by bus. Alternatively, you can go by train, which takes three hours and fifteen minutes.

Day 23: Shops Tokyo Station, Imperial Palace East Gardens, Ueno Park, Akihabara

The last day of your trip. There is a direct bus that takes you from Fujikawaguchiko Station to Tokyo Station. Make sure to reserve a seat in advance and enjoy the relaxing ride. This time you will explore the eastern part of Tokyo. You will stay near Tokyo or Ueno train station, so you can easily reach the airport when you leave the next day.

A tip: if you leave Japan the next day, you could consider leaving your luggage in a locker at the train station, so you can immediately explore Tokyo upon arrival without going to your hotel first.

The first highlight to visit is the shopping mall below Tokyo Station: there is this great area with shops selling cute souvenirs from tv shows and anime.

Head west from Tokyo Station to visit The East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. Here you can see beautiful gardens, like Ninomaru Garden, and the foundation of Edo Castle. There are guided tours to the Imperial Palace, but you probably won’t be in Tokyo early enough to use them.

If you have some time left after this, head north to Ueno Station to visit Ueno Park and the shopping area east of Ueno Station. It’s a vibrant shopping area that is neither too modern, nor too oldfashioned but rather just right.

When it gets dark it is time to head to Akihabara; the tech neighborhood of Tokyo. You’re not going here to shop (it’s probably cheaper at home) but to see the huge and colorful neon boards that decorate the streets. You can buy figurines of your favorite animes or try your hand at claw machines. Girls dressed as maids will invite you to visit their maid themed cafes.

This marks the end of your Highlights of Japan itinerary. The Narita Express train can take you from Tokyo Station to Narita International Airport in an hour.

Can’t get enough of Japan? Consider touring Kyushu and Yakushima Island on your next trip to Japan.

Where to stay in Tokyo

Sosetsu Fresa Inn Nihombashi Kayabacho is only one subway ride or a ten minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station; the ideal place to stay when you’re leaving for the airport soon. It’s situated in an office area, so the neighborhood is not very exciting. But it is cheap…

Practical information

Transport

In this itinerary, you will use public transport.

Budget

This budget is based on a three-person party. It will be more expensive if you travel solo and have to pay for your accommodation alone.

Transport

Japan Rail Pass 21 days: 490 EUR (557 USD) per person. This is assuming you take the bus to Tokyo on day 22 and buy a separate ticket for the Narita Express to the airport on day 23 or 24.
Bus Fujikawaguchiko to Tokyo: 16 EUR (18 USD) per person
Shirakawa-go and Ainokura tour: 56 EUR (63 USD) per person
Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route: 129 EUR (146 USD) per person
Also budget 25 EUR (28 USD) for the shorter bus, tram, and subway rides.
Luggage forwarding service: 30 EUR (34 USD) per person if you use it twice. You can of course use it more often for a more relaxing trip.

Food

Around 30 EUR daily per person for 23 days: 690 EUR (785 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 EUR daily per person for 23 days based on low to mid-range hotels: 920 EUR (1046 USD) per person. If you choose cheaper hotels and skip my more luxury choices in Aso and Fujikawaguchiko, you can easily lower this by 100-200 EUR.

Wifi

66 EUR (75 USD) in total for 23 days; 22 EUR per person if you’re traveling with two other people. I always order Pocket Wifi via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest Pocket Wifi I can find for many Asian countries.

Entrance fees

Less than 50 EUR (56 USD) per person

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in April 2015. It cost me around 2428 EUR (2762 USD) per person for a party of three, including all the above, but excluding intercontinental flights and souvenirs. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels and food) the total cost will be much lower.

The post Highlights of Japan – three weeks Japan itinerary appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Madrid in December: an itinerary

Kim — Mon, 10 Feb 2020 15:00:00 +0000

The capital of Spain, Madrid, is a lovely city. There are many neighborhoods to explore, museums to visit and local specialties to try. Example Madrid itinerary for December included.

December is a great month to visit Madrid.

Madrid, and Spain in general, is known for its warm temperature in summer and moderate weather in winter. But for your itinerary, it does matter if it is 40 degrees Celsius outside or 10.

So read on to find out more about:

things to do in Madrid in December, and to be more specific: around New Year’s Eve;
how to plan your sightseeing in the most practical way; and
an example itinerary for six days in Madrid. If you have fewer days, just select the days and sights you like best!

Madrid in December

A visit to Madrid in winter is not the same as in summer. The most important differences are that 1) there are fewer hours of daylight: it gets dark around 17:30, and 2) the temperature is colder. You’ll have to change your itinerary accordingly.

Tips

Plan street art and architecture watching before 17:30. Do it the other way around for buildings that are illuminated at night like the Almudena Cathedral and Temple of Debod.
You will spend less time sitting outside on terraces. I did spend some time relaxing in the sun, but mostly between 13:00 and 15:00.
It can be interesting to plan your museum visits in the morning and spend the afternoons outside when it is warmer. During my visit, the morning temperature was below 0 degrees Celcius, while the afternoon temperature was as high as 15 degrees Celcius.

Madrid around New Year's Eve

This is where you can show off your planning skills. Can you navigate your way around Dec 31, Jan 1, Mondays and Sundays?

Most museums are closed on Mondays (while Reina Sofia is closed on Tuesdays).
Some restaurants and markets (like Mercado de la Cebada) are closed on Sundays. But don’t worry about that too much as pretty much everything else is open.
Everything closes early on December 31. The shorter opening times are not visible on Google Maps and often not on the websites of restaurants and cafes either.
Museo del Prado, CaixaForum, Palacio de Velázquez, and Palacio de Cristal are open on December 31, though they close earlier.
Pretty much everything is closed on January 1. Some cafes, taverns and restaurants are open, like the 24/7 shops and bigger chain stores. You will have no problem finding food, but your options are limited. All museums and other attractions are closed.

Madrid itinerary

You can find all the places mentioned in this itinerary on my Madrid Itinerary map. Even though this Madrid itinerary takes December as an example, you can also use this in other winter months or even in other seasons.

Day 1 (Friday 27 December)

After arrival, head to your hotel to check-in.

Where to stay in Madrid

I suggest staying near the Gran Vía and Callao so that everything in the city center of Madrid is within walking distance. I only used public transport for a day trip to Cuenca and to go to the airport.

If you are looking for a budget hotel, then consider Hostal Valencia. Hotels aren’t cheap around New Year’s Eve, so that’s why I went for a more low-range hotel than I usually do.

The good

perfect location in the city center of Madrid;
single rooms available for solo travelers;
convenient check-in and check-out.

The bad

the only elevator in the building (for ~9 floors and many hotels) only holds four people at a time, so you will probably walk up and down the stairs a few times a day (to the 5th floor).
there is a club nearby that plays music until midnight (and until 4 AM on New Year’s Eve);
you’ll hear everything that happens in the hallways.

That being said: it was the best hotel around Callao I could find within my budget. I would consider this hotel again for a next trip to Madrid (and bring the noise-canceling Samsung Buds+ I’ll soon receive with my new S20 Ultra).

Lunch: Bocadillo de Jamón Ibérico

Buy your first sandwich with Jamón Ibérico; Spanish ham. One of the most advertised lunch options in the touristy city center of Madrid.

I had originally planned to start my Madrid trip with churros and hot chocolate, but when I saw the tiny Bocadillos Oink shop (open 24/7) on Gran Vía from the taxi window I was sold.

The sandwich was delicious and I bought many throughout my trip (whenever I don’t mention breakfast).

Callao area

Explore the area around Callao subway station and go shopping. There are many shops ranging from tourist shops selling Madrid souvenirs to mid and high-end stores selling clothes and luxury goods. You will find many brands that are well-known internationally.

When you’re done exploring the area south of the Gran Vía, you might want to head to the area north of the Gran Vía (Malasaña) for smaller shops selling unique goods.

Don’t worry if you can’t see it all this afternoon: you’ll cross these areas often.

Museo Reina Sofia

Follow the streets with shops and taverns from the Callao area towards Museo Reina Sofia. This museum is my favorite museum in Madrid because it has a very diverse art collection and is located in a beautiful historical building.

I recommend buying a Skip-the-line ticket for Reina Sofia, as this will save you a lot of time waiting in line. When I visited the museum on a Friday at 15:00 the line was short, but that might not be the case when you visit.

Las Luces del Real Jardín Botánico

You can watch the luminous fairytale landscape with Christmas light shows, impressive flora and illuminated figures at the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid. Real Jardín Botánico transforms into a light festival for almost seven weeks in winter. In 2019/2020 you could visit the garden from November 19 until January 6.

Please note that you will have to buy your tickets weeks in advance, or you won’t be able to visit the garden. The tickets were sold out when I tried and I chose not to join the very long queue at the ticket gate for a chance of buying a ticket on the day itself.

Dinner: Rabo del Toro

On your way back from Museo Reina Sofia or Real Jardín Botánico to Callao, you will see many taverns and restaurants.

I got drawn in by the beautiful shopfront of Vulcano Brasas and chose to have dinner there. Their Rabo de Toro, one of the must-try dishes of Madrid, is very good.

Temple of Debod

The Temple of Debod is an ancient Egyptian temple dedicated to Isis of Philae. It was originally located near Aswan in Egypt and was dismantled and rebuilt in Madrid in an effort to save the cultural heritage after the construction of the Aswan High Dam.

You can find the temple on a hill west of the Gran Vía. If you visit during the day, you can enter the temple and look inside. However, the temple is most beautiful at night.

Day 2 (Saturday 28 December)

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Museo Thyssen has a mix of historical pieces and contemporary art. The interior of the building is an artwork on its own: the checkered orange and white floor and the orange walls remind you of an Escher drawing. My second favorite museum in Madrid!

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour.

I joined the queue for Museo Thyssen at 9:45 on the morning of December 29 and got in within 5 minutes after the museum opened its doors with my pre-bought ticket.

Chueca neighborhood

Chueca is a very colorful neighborhood with many LGBT flags and street art. A fun area to explore. You can visit Mercado San Anton: one of the markets that is not overrun by tourists.

On your way to Andén 0 Chamberí, do make sure to walk by SGAE Sociedad General de Autores y Editores on Calle de Fernando VI. I found the ornaments on this building rather intriguing.

Andén 0 Chamberí

A subway station turned museum. It is a very small museum with the main attractions being the old ticket office and entrance gates upstairs and the wall tiles at the subway track downstairs.

You can’t reserve your ticket in advance, so you’ll just have to hope your timing is good. 1 pm on a Saturday is not a good time, I can tell you that from experience.

Malasaña neighborhood

Explore the small streets and colorful houses in the Malasaña neighborhood. The area feels authentic: this is what I expect of a Spanish city.

Conde Duque

Conde Duque surprised me a lot and ended up being one of my favorite sights in Madrid. The building has a certain grandeur when looking at it from the outside. Once you enter the courtyard you feel the serenity of the vast space around you. Especially if you stand alone in the middle of the courtyard. A very peaceful experience.

Conde Duque is a Churrigueresque building in the baroque-style. Before it was converted to a cultural center it was used by the military as barracks.

The Robot Museum

A museum with many robots on display: from Pepper and Nao to the older InMoov and Retrorobot. During the tour, you get an introduction to the history of robotics. You learn about the earliest robots, perfecting movements, the use of robots in Star Wars and for educational and health/companionship purposes.

You can only join the tour and visit the museum if you book a ticket in advance. There are some English tours, but you have to be quick for those.

Almudena Cathedral

The Almudena Cathedral is a very impressive building from both the inside and the outside. It is right next to the Royal Palace of Madrid.

I saw Almudena Cathedral both by day and by night and I would recommend a night visit. The illumination makes the building even more beautiful. See if you can catch the sunset too!

I was impressed with the ceiling and architecture of the building. I think I spent ten minutes sitting on the wooden benches staring at the ceiling from all sides.

If you visit around Christmas, you can see the Belén (birth of Jesus) exhibition near the entrance of Almudena Cathedral.

Go outside and walk around the building (with the building on your right) to reach the entrance of the Crypt under Almudena Cathedral, one of the largest crypts in Spain. The crypt is built in Romanesque style and has over 400 columns. On the sides, you can see the twenty-plus altars with a stained-glass window and a variety of artworks.

Muslim Walls of Madrid

Opposite the entrance of the Crypt of Almudena Cathedral, you can find the Muslim Walls of Madrid. The cathedral was built on the site of a medieval mosque.

Tapas: Mercado Jamón Ibérico

Enjoy tapas of Jamón Ibérico, Manchego cheese and olive oil at Mercado Jamón Ibérico. You can also buy some packages to take home. It is a small family-run establishment. The owners speak English very well.

The quality of the products is really good. For me, this was the best tapas on my trip to Madrid.

Mercado Jamón Ibérico is open from 10:00 until 21:00.

Mercado de San Miguel

I initially planned to have tapas at the Mercado de San Miguel. Tourist style, because everyone goes there, right?

But after the amazing tapas at Mercado Jamón Ibérico and seeing the huge crowd at Mercado de San Miguel, I ended up leaving the second market very quickly.

This market is too overrun by tourists. I don’t recommend visiting. Watch it from a distance, yes, but please enjoy dinner or tapas elsewhere.

Walk back to your hotel via Plaza Mayor (another tourist hotspot).

Day 3 (Sunday 29 December)

Breakfast: Hot Chocolate with Porras

One of the must-try foods (drinks) of Madrid.

Many cafes in Madrid sell Hot Chocolate with Churros or Porras (‘bigger’ churros). The two most well-known shops are probably San Ginés and Los Artesanos. They’re pretty much in the same street, so you can visit the one with the shortest queue.

I chose to visit Los Artesanos because they offer a dark chocolate variant. The chocolate milk was delicious and made for a heavy meal that lasted me well into the afternoon.

Don’t try to visit after dinner, as the queue will be huge. 8:30 in the morning is a perfect time though: I was seated immediately.

Royal Palace

I joined the queue to enter the Royal Palace of Madrid at 9:45. I did not buy a Skip-the-line ticket with a guided tour for the palace because I wasn’t sure on which day I would visit the palace. I wish I had bought one though, as this would have saved me more than half an hour waiting at 0 degrees Celsius (I got in at 10:20).

You first enter the courtyard from which you have a nice view of the Royal Palace and also of Almudena Cathedral (behind the gates). The palace is a very impressive building.

Once inside you walk through the hallway with the decorated ceiling. This is also one of the only areas you are allowed to take pictures of. After the first few chambers, you have to put your phone away.

Every single room is lavishly decorated. Beautiful to see but I would dislike living there. I can imagine it succeeded at impressing visiting dignities.

Mercado de la Cebada

Mercado de la Cebada is closed on Sundays, but it was on the way to El Rastro and Tabacalera, so I snapped a picture of the street art on the building walls.

El Rastro

Head to the flea market El Rastro in the La Latino neighborhood after visiting the Royal Palace. On the way, you will see many interesting buildings, churches and street art.

I found the flea market itself very disappointing. Just like Mercado de San Miguel, this spot is too much overrun by tourists. You can hardly walk around, let alone pay attention to the goods the stands are selling. I didn’t see anything especially interesting. So this is another site worth skipping.

Walk through it quickly if you must.

Tabacalera

A museum of street art located in an old tobacco factory creating an intense harmony of foreground and background. The paintings inside are beautiful; that is, I liked them a lot. Colorful paintings of flowers, some more abstract than others.

The use of color forms a stark contrast with the gray industrial walls behind the paintings. Together they form the perfect picture.

Outside the museum, you can find many mural paintings in the area. Make sure you also walk through Calle de Miguel Servet just around the corner.

Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales

Also called the Convent of the Barefoot Nuns. A place of silence within the bustling city center of Madrid.

The interior is beautifully decorated with paintings, wood and rock carvings and sculptures. Especially the main staircase is very impressive, with symmetries between doorways and paintings and between art on opposite sides of the staircase. Every little detail has been taken care of.

You have to reserve a spot on the guided tour (in Spanish only) if you want to visit the monastery.

Late lunch: Shrimp croquettes

Head to Calle de la Cruz for an amazing lunch at Casa Toni, La Casa del Abuela or one of the many other taverns in the street.

Casa Toni was too crowded, so I went to La Casa del Abuelo and had shrimp croquettes and Sangria. Just enough to last until my next tapas moment.

Retiro Park

Enjoy a walk in Retiro Park: the central park in Madrid. In the middle of the park, you can find the Monument to Alfonso XII next to a small lake.

Nearby you can also visit Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal.

Palacio de Velázquez

Palacio de Velázquez has a grand appearance and deserves to carry the name ‘palace’. Inside the museum, you can see a few works of art from the collection of Reina Sofia.

Palacio de Cristal

This is a glass (‘crystal’) palace that looks best from the outside when the sun is playing with the glass exterior. I wasn’t impressed with the interior; it felt to me like I was locked up in a greenhouse with many other people.

Tapas: Basque style

At the Gran Vía, you will find Txapela, a restaurant serving tapas in Basque style. Take a table or a seat at the bar and order the dishes that look best on the menu.

Day 4 (Monday 30 December)

Day trip to Cuenca

Cuenca is a beautiful city with a historical city center at a two-hour’ drive from Madrid. You can also do a day trip to Toledo, Segovia or Ávila but I fell for the charm of the hanging houses of Cuenca and the nature reserves in the area.

I joined a Day Tour to Cuenca via GetYourGuide (a birthday present from my parents!). With that tour, I was able to see much of the area with little effort.

On the tour you will experience the following:

look through the Devil’s window at a house overlooking a gorge,
explore the Enchanted City and see the magical rock formations,
visit the old town of Cuenca, and
watch the Hanging Houses at sunset in magical Cuenca.

Day 5 (Tuesday 31 December)

Breakfast at the Brown Bear Bakery

This bakery sells good quality baked goods and has an attractive storefront. You can have breakfast inside or buy something to go.

Museo del Prado

Museo del Prado is one of the three best-known museums in Madrid together with Reina Sofia and Thyssen Museum. It is big, the building is magnificent and the museum lives up to its name.

The artworks on display are of the biggest artists in history. Many unique pieces can be seen in Museo del Prado with a collection ranging from sculptures to paintings. Instead of having a wide range of artists, it offers big collections from individual artists giving a very complete feel to your visit.

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour (it did for me).

CaixaForum

A very well designed and eye-catching building both on the inside and the outside.

CaixaForum is probably best known for its vertical garden, which is well deserved. The green wall next to the other brown walls of the building is a sight to behold. You can walk under the building and feel like you’re entering a crypt (an open-air one).

The stairs leading to the exhibitions inside have an industrial feel to it and the way the light plays with the silvery stairs causes interesting reflections.

Plaza de Santa Ana

You will cross Plaza de Santa Ana on your way back to the touristy part around Callao. The cafes at this plaza are far less crowded than many other plazas closer to the city center. If the weather is nice, you can have a drink and order late lunch.

I ordered Anchovies marinated in Salt and Vinegar: a perfect small dish to accompany my drink.

Spend the remaining time until dinner walking around the streets of Madrid spotting street art. Every attraction is closed because of New Year’s Eve festivities.

Dinner: Callos a la Madrileña

A visit to Madrid is not complete without trying one of their famous tripe or organ dishes (if you like those). You can try this dish at the tavern La Tía Cebolla (and many other taverns).

Callos a la Madrileña is a Madrid-style tripe stew. Delicious, but with a very strong taste. I would have loved to share this dish with someone.

Puerta del Sol

New Year’s Eve in Madrid is special and at the same time not that special. As in any big city, there will be many people in the streets to celebrate this last day of the year together.

The main festivities are at Puerta del Sol, but if you want to celebrate your New Year’s Eve at this plaza, you will have there go early. The police will only allow a limited amount of people to access the square. When I went there at 23:20, the road was already barricaded.

That being said, if you are traveling with family or friends, then anywhere should be fine as long as you are together. Alone it is kinda boring. From the area around Callao subway station, you will not see anything of the festivities. It is simply a waiting game until the person next to you starts counting back from 10 to 0 and eat his twelve grapes (a New Year’s Eve custom in Spain).

Day 6 (Wednesday 1 January)

Pretty much everything is closed today, except for some cafes and restaurants. You will have no problem finding breakfast, but it probably won’t be the best or cheapest meal of your trip.

The city center will be very quiet this morning, so use the opportunity to shoot pictures without people getting in the way.

Breakfast: cheese platter at Jamón 55

The Tapas bar Jamón 55 is one of the more interesting places open on January 1st. It is not the cheapest place, but they serve breakfast menus consisting of hot chocolate with churros or coffee/tea with sandwiches.

I wanted to have another cheese platter (the Dutch and cheese…), so I went for a regular menu item. It was not even close to being as good as the Jamón Ibérico and Manchego cheese platter of Mercado Jamón Ibérico. It was okeish though.

Parque Juan Carlos I

After a last stroll in the quiet city center of Madrid, it is time to head to the last destination of this itinerary. Even though most attractions are closed, many parks are still open. You can, for example, spend the afternoon in Retiro Park.

A more interesting option is Parque Juan Carlos I, as it is away from the city center and mainly frequented by locals. It is also a ten minutes’ bus ride from the airport, so it is a perfect place to spend the last hours of your trip. To get there: take subway line 5 from Callao to Canillejas and walk in ten minutes to the entrance of the park. You have to buy a public transport card to use the subway system, which is kind of a pity if you only use it for one trip.

A tip for New Year’s Day and other holidays: bus 827 takes you from the entrance of the park to airport terminal 4 from the Av.Logroño-Parque El Capricho bus stop. This bus normal comes every twenty minutes, but on certain days it changes to once an hour. This is not reflected on Google Maps. Please check the bus times before heading to the park on Spanish holidays.

Parque Juan Carlos I is a big park with sports facilities and playgrounds for kids, areas with different vegetation to explore, sculptures, a river and benches for relaxing. You can spend hours walking around exploring the park (doable with a suitcase) or strike down on a bench to read a book or simply enjoy the quiet. I liked this park much better than the parks in the city center because of what they did with the landscape.

What to read in Madrid

Anything by Javier Marías; an author from Madrid who writes books that take place in Madrid. I read one book by him and though the concept impressed me, his writing style is not for me. So judge for yourself…

Javier Marías - Tomorrow in the Battle Think on Me

“No one ever suspects,” begins Tomorrow in the Battle Think On Me, “that they might one day find themselves with a dead woman in their arms….” Marta has just met Victor when she invites him to dinner at her Madrid apartment while her husband is away on business. When her two-year-old son finally falls asleep, Marta and Victor retreat to the bedroom. Undressing, she suddenly feels ill; and in his arms, inexplicably, she dies.

What should Victor do? Remove the compromising tape from the phone machine? Leave food for the child, for breakfast? These are just his first steps, but he soon takes matters further; unable to bear the shadows and the unknowing, Victor plunges into dark waters. And Javier Marías, Europe’s master of secrets, of what lies reveal and truth may conceal, is on sure ground in this profound, quirky, and marvelous novel.

Buy it on Amazon

Ben Lerner - Leaving the Atocha Station

Adam Gordon is a brilliant, if highly unreliable, young American poet on a prestigious fellowship in Madrid, struggling to establish his sense of self and his relationship to art. What is actual when our experiences are mediated by language, technology, medication, and the arts? Is poetry an essential art form, or merely a screen for the reader’s projections? Instead of following the dictates of his fellowship, Adam’s “research” becomes a meditation on the possibility of the genuine in the arts and beyond: are his relationships with the people he meets in Spain as fraudulent as he fears his poems are? A witness to the 2004 Madrid train bombings and their aftermath, does he participate in historic events or merely watch them pass him by?

Buy it on Amazon

Ernest Hemingway - Death in the Afternoon

Still considered one of the best books ever written about bullfighting, “Death in the Afternoon” is an impassioned look at the sport by one of its true aficionados. It reflects Hemingway’s conviction that bullfighting was more than mere sport and reveals a rich source of inspiration for his art. The unrivaled drama of bullfighting, with its rigorous combination of athleticism and artistry, and its requisite display of grace under pressure, ignited Hemingway’s imagination. Here he describes and explains the technical aspects of this dangerous ritual and “the emotional and spiritual intensity and pure classic beauty that can be produced by a man, an animal, and a piece of scarlet serge draped on a stick.” Seen through his eyes, bullfighting becomes a richly choreographed ballet, with performers who range from awkward amateurs to masters of great elegance and cunning.

Buy it on Amazon

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Japan travel itinerary: 2 weeks in Kyushu and Yakushima Island

Kim — Fri, 20 Dec 2019 11:00:00 +0000

How to spend 2 weeks in Kyushu, Japan? You can read all about it in this Japan travel itinerary focusing on Kyushu and Yakushima Island.

Have you seen the highlights of Japan already and are you looking for travel inspiration for your second trip to Japan? Then this Japan travel itinerary is for you.

With this travel itinerary, you will explore the southern part of Japan: the islands Kyushu and Yakushima in two weeks. Kyushu is Japan’s third-largest island and can easily be reached by car, train or air.

The most interesting part about visiting this part of Japan is the laid-back character of the area. If the weather is nice you can easily mistake parts of Kyushu for a tropical vacation: the vegetation is different from mid and north Japan, fruit is affordable and the must-see places are in the rural areas.

As a special side trip, this Japan travel itinerary will lead you to Yakushima Island: a subtropical island that has a mysterious feeling to it. Yakushima Island is ideal for those who love hiking.

Japan itinerary outline

Fukuoka – Day 1
Nagasaki – Day 2 – 4
Kagoshima – Day 5 – 6
Yakushima Island – Day 7 – 9
Miyazaki – Day 10 – 11
Mizukami – Day 12
Aso – Day 13
Beppu – Day 14 – 15
Practical information (including transport details and budget)

You can skip Fukuoka and start your Japan trip in Nagasaki if you want to keep the number of days at 14. And if you have more time you can add some days in Tokyo before or after the trip.

Japan itinerary map

You can find all the places mentioned in this itinerary in my Japan travel itinerary – 2 weeks in Kyushu and Yakushima Island Google map.

Fukuoka

Day 1: Hakata Ramen, Castle Ruins, Nakasu Street Stalls

Your first day in Japan! From the airport, it is only a ten-minute subway ride to Nakasukawabata Station. Buy your Japanese public transport card (Pasmo or Suica) at a convenience store at the airport and store it with enough money for a few rides in Fukuoka and Beppu.

When you get off the subway you’re right in front of Ichiran’s Tenjin branch where you can eat your first Japanese meal of the trip after checking into your hotel: Hakata Ramen; the pork noodles soup from the Fukuoka area. Afterward, head over to the nearby castle to explore Fukuoka Castle Ruins.

Dinner tonight is at the Nakasu Street Stalls (Yatai). These stalls are located along the canal and attract a lot of people at night. Some of the dishes you can try here are yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), oden (hot pot noodles), a variety of dumplings and Hakata Ramen. Just take a seat at one of the stalls and strike up a conversation with the people around you.

Where to stay in Fukuoka

I stayed at Hotel WBF Fukuoka Nakasu near Nakasukawabata subway station in the Tenjin area. This hotel is within walking distance from Ichiran, the food stalls, Canal City and Hakata train station. I enjoyed my stay at the hotel after an initial discussion about the price; they had to call some people to confirm the amount on my booking reservation over the amount they usually charge.

In the lobby of the hotel, you can choose your shampoo and conditioner for the night, which is a very nice touch and a good opportunity to try Japanese brands. The rooms were clean and, because I booked a twin room, big enough for two people and two suitcases.

Nagasaki

Day 2: Fukuoka Canal City, Hakata Train Station, Braised Pork dish

In the afternoon, pick your luggage up from the hotel and head back to the train station to get your Japan Rail Pass. It is time to go to Nagasaki by train. The train ride takes about two hours and twenty minutes but there is plenty to see during the ride.

After checking into your hotel, head to shopping area 観光通り and find a good restaurant that serves braised pork (Buta Kaku Ni). I can recommend Shippoku Hamakatsu.

If you want to visit Huis ten Bosch while you’re in Nagasaki, then it’s better to head to Nagasaki early in the morning so you can do the activities scheduled for day 3 today. I wanted a slow start (recovering from jetlag) and chose to spend more time in Fukuoka instead.

As a Dutch person, I felt very much at home in Nagasaki but going to Huis ten Bosch to see tulips and mills and Dutch houses was a bit too much for me after the Dutch Slope and Dutch Trading Post. Otherwise, Huis ten Bosch (Little Holland) can be a good day trip from Nagasaki.

Day 3: Dejima, Dutch Slope, Glover Garden, Chinatown

Time for a walk around town. The first stop for today is Dejima, a former Dutch Trading Post in the middle of Nagasaki. This trading post housed Portuguese traders and later also Dutch traders from 1641 onwards to separate them from the rest of society. Dejima Island was the only place of direct trade between Japan and the rest of the world.

Head to Nagasaki’s China Town for brunch or lunch. Try Champon (noodles, seafood, pork, and vegetables in white bouillon) and Sara Udon (fried champon).

Next up is the Dutch Slope. Follow the street up the hill to view the former residences of traders who moved there after Nagasaki opened its port for foreign trade in 1859. For two centuries the Dutch were the only Westerners allowed in the country, hence the name Dutch Slope.

From the Dutch Slope, it is only a few minutes’ walk to the ‘elevator’ to Glover Garden. The house within the garden (Glover House, after Thomas Glover, a Scottish merchant who moved to Nagasaki after the port opened) is the oldest Western-style wooden building in Japan.

Take a stroll through the garden and enjoy the view of Nagasaki harbor from above. After leaving the garden at the bottom you pass by Oura Catholic Church. A church built for the foreign traders around 1864 and one of the oldest surviving Christian churches in Japan.

In the streets surrounding the church, you can find many tourist shops with interesting souvenirs and food to try.

Day 4: Peace Park and Museum, Mall, Ropeway Mount Inasa

Whereas yesterday focused on the 1600s until the 1800s, today focuses on more recent history: the atomic bomb that was dropped on Nagasaki in 1945. This morning you will visit the Atomic Bomb Museum and National Memorial to the victims. The museum is quite impressive and especially the objects that were scavenged from the ruins and the pictures and testimonials of people that survived the bombing make an impact.

On your way from the Atomic Bomb Museum to the Peace Park, you pass the Hypocenter Park with the black column marking the epicenter of the explosion and the single remaining pillar of the old Urakami Cathedral.

The Peace Park on top of the hill is filled with sculptures commemorating the atomic bombing of Nagasaki. The visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum and Memorials leave you with both peaceful and heavy feelings.

Take the tram to Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Mall for some afternoon shopping. I recommend a visit to the bookstore and Nana’s Green Tea cafe in the middle of the bookstore. I visited other branches of this cafe in Miyazaki and Tokyo; their matcha and hojicha flavored chocolates, tea and ice creams taste wonderful.

When evening falls, head to the Fuchi Shrine Ropeway Station to take the cable car to the Mount Inasa viewpoint. From the viewpoint, you have a very good view of the illuminated city of Nagasaki.

A practical tip: have your luggage forwarded to your hotel in Kagoshima for optimal freedom of movement tomorrow! Your hotel can probably send it for you or direct you to a convenience store nearby. Make sure to fill in the forms and drop off your luggage before 4 PM.

Where to stay in Nagasaki

I stayed at S Peria Hotel Nagasaki, which is a budget hotel within walking distance of the train station, Dejima and many other sights in the area. The hotel personnel was friendly and the hotel was exactly as I expected for the price I paid: not too fancy, but comfortable, and at a very practical location. If you’re looking for a budget hotel, I can recommend this one.

Where to eat in Nagasaki

Shippoku Hamakatsu: not a budget meal, though still cheaper than a regular restaurant meal in my country. Try their multi-course dinner with braised pork. I enjoyed the taste of the dishes very much.

China Town: you can’t go wrong here as there are many restaurants in the streets of China Town.

On my way back from the peace park to the tram station, I had lunch at this brilliant little pub called なんばしよっと hidden behind a door that suggests it is a toilet. Be brave and go in for a very good meal with lovely hosts at a low price. This is what they mean with unique and authentic places to have lunch at.

Nana’s Green Tea cafe at Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Mall.

Kagoshima

Day 5: Train ride to Kagoshima, Tenmonkan, Tea shop

Prepare for a 4 hours and 30 minutes train ride to Kagoshima, via Hakata Station in Fukuoka. If you sent your luggage ahead you’ll be free to get out at any stop along the way to go sightseeing. I considered stopping at Kumamoto to visit the castle but decided against it as the castle was damaged in an earthquake a few years back and might not be worth the trip. Instead, I walked through some non-touristy neighborhoods in Kagoshima until I reached the Tenmonkan Shopping Center.

If you like tea, then I can recommend Birouen Tea Store in Tenmonkan.

Day 6: Sengan-en Garden, Sakurajima Island volcano, Nagisa Lava Trail and Foot Bath

This morning starts with a visit to the traditional Japanese garden Sengan-en. Ask your hotel for the nearest bus stop to the garden: they know best. On the bus, you can buy a ticket for the day (which you will also need to go to Kagoshima Ferry Port after your visit to the garden).

The garden has many small ponds, temples, bonsai trees and a bamboo forest. The traditional Japanese house and the garden inside and just outside of the building are the highlights of the visit: they’re beautiful and well-maintained, clean and aesthetic and provide a good view of Sakurajima volcano island.

Do also head to the area behind the house and slightly up the hill for a more ‘wild’ and ‘ancient’ version of a Japanese garden. Pure nature with limited human intervention at its best.

I can also recommend the tea house in the garden. It is quite touristy but the ambiance and taste make up for it.

Take the bus from Sengan-en Garden to Kagoshima Ferry Port for a short 15 minutes’ ferry trip to Sakurajima Island. The ferry goes three to four times per hour between 6:00 and 20:00, so no need to watch the time.

At Sakurajima Island, I recommend buying a ticket for the Hop-on / Hop-off buses for a tour around the island. Beware though, this will be a very Japanese experience. The bus stops for like 5 to 10 minutes at every viewpoint or sculpture. That’s plenty of time to see it all but it still feels like ‘get out, take pictures, get in, move on’. In the end, you reach the observation point near the volcano (not that close) and can admire the view of Kagoshima across the sea.

Before heading back to Kagoshima, take a stroll along the coast towards Nagisa Foot Bath and Nagisa Lava Trail. The footbath is situated on the coast, so you can relax a bit with your feet in the warm (not hot) water with Sakurajima volcano on one side and Kagoshima on the other.

The Nagisa Lava Trail is a trail of about three kilometers along the coast. The blackened rocks date back to the eruption of Sakurajima volcano in 1914. It is a very nice stroll with beautiful scenery.

Where to stay in Kagoshima

Moving away from the bigger cities I always pick a more mid-range hotel as I often spend some time relaxing at the hotel. For Kagoshima, I wanted a hotel with a hot spring bath. And because I was traveling with someone with tattoos (often not allowed in public baths) I selected a hotel with private baths. In the end, I didn’t end up using a private bath because the public one was quiet enough that my friend could just go in without anyone seeing her tattoos.

Hotel Fukiagesou is a very good mid-range hotel in Kagoshima. The furniture in the hotel room makes you feel like you’re back in Nagasaki’s Glover Garden, but the beds were surprisingly comfortable. The hotel staff was really nice and helped us find the right bus stop and bus times for Sengan-en Garden. I also enjoyed the breakfast at the hotel very much.

A small note for those that value English speaking skills: the hotel staff didn’t speak any English. This won’t stop them from explaining everything about the baths, the floor of your room and breakfast to you in Japanese. I was quite happy when I found out I could understand 75% of what they said. Apparently, I did pick up some Japanese listening skills on my previous trip to Japan (hotel and restaurant vocabulary only).

They have all the necessary information available in English on paper, so you won’t lack anything.

I enjoyed my stay at Hotel Fukiageso and can recommend it to anyone looking for a place with hot spring baths and a good breakfast.

Where to eat in Kagoshima

I found a good grilled eel (Unagi Don) restaurant (うなぎの末よし) in Tenmonkan Shopping Center. I’ve been a big fan of this dish since my last visit to Japan and I wish I could find a good restaurant selling Unagi Don in my country.

Yakushima Island

Yakushima Island is a small subtropical island off the coast of Kagoshima. On the island you can find many ancient cedar trees; some of them around 7000 years old though you’ll probably agree with me that a thousand years old is already a pretty respectable age for a cedar tree.

Day 7: ferry to Yakushima Island, Shiratani Unsuikyo

Take the morning ferry from Kagoshima Ferry Terminal to Miyanoura or Anbo Port on Yakushima Island. Pick up your rental car near the port and check into your hotel first.

The afternoon is for hiking in Shiratani Unsuikyo: a natural recreation forest that receives a lot of rain every year. It is best known for its very old cedar trees. This area was used as inspiration for the movie Princess Mononoke.

You can do one of the shorter trails (Yayoi Sugi trail) or start a 4-hour trail to Taikoiwa Rock.

Day 8: Tashiro Coast, Senpirono Falls, Seibu Rindo Forest Path, Inakahama Beach, Isso Harbor

Let’s go on a Yakushima Island road trip today… unless you fancy a 10-hour hiking trip to Jomonsugi (the most iconic trail on Yakushima Island) that is.

With Miyanoura port as a starting point, drive clockwise until you reach the first stop of today: a Japanese tea shop (有屋久島八万寿茶園). They sell many types of tea grown on the island. You can try some of them before buying them.

Along the way, you will see many shops selling souvenirs made from Yakushima cedarwood. Feel free to stop at those that grab your attention.

The next big stop, and at the same time my favorite spot on Yakushima Island, is Tashiro Coast. This rocky coast formed by lava was one of the most colorful places I saw on my trip. Not in a bright neon billboards kind of way, but natural, subtle. Even though Tashiro Coast doesn’t seem like much at first, it will grow on you if you give it your full attention and observe.

From there, pass Anbo to visit Senpirono Falls: a waterfall flowing over massive granite cliffs surrounded by forest. I almost wrote “big waterfall” there, but the waterfall is not that big at all. It just feels huge because of the valley surrounding it.

On the west coast of Yakushima Island, you will find Seibu Rindo Forest Path, which is a UNESCO protected forest. Along the often one-lane path, you can spot monkeys and deer. And if not: admire the diverse vegetation. There is plenty to see.

Heading further north you will come across some interesting beaches. One of them is Inakahama Beach, which sea turtles use as a nesting place from May to July.

Another popular white beach is at Isso. If you look at Isso from the other side though, overlooking the harbor from the Shinto Altar nearby, it feels more like you’re in the Lofoten in Norway.

You can read more about these stops in my Yakushima Special.

Day 9: Mount Tachu hike, Yakusugi Land

Today you will explore Yakusugi Land. Depending on what you feel like you can do the short two-hour forest trail and spend the rest of the day relaxing at a nice beach or cafe. Or hike mount Tachu.

The hike to Mount Tachu at 1497m has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Hike. It takes about 6 hours to do a return trip (with minimal resting).

You start in the forest until you reach the side track to Tenmon no Mori. After this, the relaxing forest walk is over and you start climbing.

From the top of Mount Tachu, you can see all the way to the coastal cities while celebrating your success on top of the big rock.

Where to stay on Yakushima Island

I chose to stay at Tashiro Annex in Miyanoura because you can get there quickly from the ferry. From there it is only a 20 minutes drive to the trails in Yakusugi land so you can do a trail on the day you arrive. The hotel offers Japanese and Western rooms and has hot spring baths for men and women. Laundry facilities are also present (very useful if you go hiking). You can eat dinner at the hotel if you make a reservation the day before and enjoy a multi-course dinner or walk into town to eat at one of the many restaurants. Breakfast is good but not too heavy.

Miyazaki

Day 10: Obi Castle Ruins and town

Drop off your rental car at Miyanoura Port and take the ferry back to the mainland in the morning. In Kagoshima, you will pick up your new rental car near the port.

Drive about two hours east towards Miyazaki to reach Obi. Obi is famous for its Castle Ruins. Even though it is called castle ruins, it doesn’t feel like it because many buildings were restored.

Around Obi Castle, you can see traditional Japanese gardens and houses in the so-called Obi Samurai Residence Street. You can enter some of the houses to learn more about the history of Samurai. I marked two of the Samurai residences you can visit on the Japan Travel Itinerary map. You can easily spot the others while wandering around the streets.

Day 11: Cape Toi, Udo Jingu Shrine, Sun-Messe Nichinan

The first stop this morning is Cape Toi at the southeastern tip of Kyushu. Cape Toi is like a resort for wild horses. The horses have plenty of room to wander around and don’t mind humans taking pictures of them from a distance. Or from very closeby, but do keep in mind they are wild horses even though they’re used to having humans around.

You can visit the white lighthouse at the end of the cape for a breathtaking view of the cape and bay. You’ll wish you were one of the horses living there.

There is also another viewpoint providing a good view of Cape Toi but when I went there the horses were blocking the path so we decided to turn back and leave them be.

Take the same road back and stop at Udo Jingu Shrine. This stop is especially important if you want to increase your fertility and chances of a good marriage.

Follow the path through the red gate and down the coast to the colorful temple inside the cave. After visiting the cave, spend some time looking at the cliffs and rock formations. You can try your luck throwing lucky stones (Undama) at the rocks resembling a sea turtle in the hope your wish will be granted.

The last stop for today is Sun-Messe Nichinan to see the statues resembling the Maoi of Easter Island.

If you have some time left and want to go shopping, check out Aeon Mall in Miyazaki. It is open until 22:00 and houses my favorite modern green tea house Nana’s Green Tea.

Where NOT to stay in Miyazaki

I stayed at Kominka Sharehouse Hooju. The building is beautiful: a traditional Japanese farmhouse. The area is authentic, very near to attractions and the price is really low.

Until so far the positive review. The house is still very much in its old state and lacks maintenance. A unique look into history you would say. Yes, but not a pleasant place to stay at. I don’t mind the big spiders in the living room and kitchen or even the cold seeping in through all the spaces in the walls or roof. My problem was with the dust and everything else that irritated my airways from the moment I stepped inside. I tried to spend as much time away from the Sharehouse as I could, but it took days before I felt healthy again.

Where to eat in Miyazaki

For the Aoshima area, I recommend 漁師料理ひで丸. The entrance is a bit hidden behind a carport but you can just open the one door that looks like it might open. I had a very good seafood meal with many side dishes.

Mizukami

Day 12: Aoshima Island, Ebino Plateau

This morning starts at Aoshima Island: an island connected to the mainland by a bridge. What makes the island special is that the vegetation resembles a jungle.

Via the path to the right of the main temple, you can reach a smaller temple in the middle of this jungle. It is a very unique thing to experience in a non-tropical area.

Heading back to the coast of Aoshima Island, you can see the Devil’s washboard (Oni no Sentakuita) at low tide. The Devil’s washboard is a natural formation even though it looks like it was created by humans.

If you can, try to be at Aoshima Island around 8:00 in the morning to avoid the crowds. After that, it gets really busy. You can park your car for free at Miyakoh Botanical Gardens. It is only a short walk from there along the coast lined with palm trees.

Drive an hour and a half west to visit the lakes at the Ebino Kogen in an area filled with volcanoes and craters. You can do an easy 4 kilometers walk around the blue lakes (Lake Byukushi and Lake Rokkannonmi) and spot wild deer.

When I visited in October 2018 I could only do part of the trail because of volcanic activity in the Kirishima area. Most of the no-entry zones were lifted in spring 2019 but some access roads and paths around small craters are still closed. Please check the current status before your visit.

From there head to your hotel in the Mizukami or Aso area for a relaxing evening in a hot spring bath.

Where to stay in Mizukami

I stayed at a lovely hidden hotel called Minshuku Kawahara (民宿川原) in Mizukami. A very rural stay in a Japanese village. A multi-course homemade breakfast and dinner were included. It was one of the best dinners of my Kyushu trip.

The building I rented a room in was beautifully constructed and I basically had the whole building to myself. It was one of the most aesthetically pleasing stays of my trip. The hot spring bath made my skin feel extremely soft. It was also the bath that smelled like sulfur the most… so more healthy minerals?

Aso

Day 13: Takachiho Gorge, Amano Iwato Shrine, Amano Yasukawara

Take the mountain road for two and a half hours to Takachiho Gorge. Make a quick photo stop in Shiiba to see the Kamishiiba Dam. You can drive all the way to the start of the dam (while feeling you’re not allowed to drive there) for a short walk on top of the dam with a view of Shiiba.

Takachiho Gorge is best known for its very blue water surrounded by high cliffs. You can take a boat and watch it from below or walk along the stream for a different perspective.

When it’s busy you can’t park near the entrance of Takachiho Gorge and you have to resort to the parking lots uphill. It is quite steep…

After your visit to the shrines, continue to your hotel in Aso. See if you can time this part of the trip a bit before sunset so you can see the sun go down behind Aso Volcano and the hills in the area.

Where to stay in Aso

I can recommend Tsuruya. A small word of caution ahead: this is not a budget option. This is the luxury stay I always treat myself with once every trip. I rented a Japanese room with a private hot spring bath in the garden and a multi-course breakfast and dinner included.

And it was worth it. A very relaxing stay where everything is taken care of. Lots of space to move around and a hot spring resort experience (that is not a thousand euros per night) at a traditional Japanese house.

On my previous trip to Japan, I stayed at a hotel across the street. Both hotels provide a similar experience. So, see if you can book one nice hotel in the Aso area to treat yourself for a trip going well.

Beppu

Day 14: Mount Aso, Tadewara Wetlands

It is time to visit Mount Aso, the largest active volcano in Japan and one of the biggest calderas in the world. One of the peaks, Nakadake, continuously emits smoke and you will need to check the current status to see if you can visit.

You can park your car at the start of Mount Aso Ropeway, but it is also possible to take the toll road (800 Yen) and park near the crater.

There are many walking paths at the top that you can take to see more of the area. I especially liked the view of the mountains from a path of dark sand and rocks with tiny bushes turning orange for autumn.

Take the mountain pass through the Kuju Mountains to get from Aso to Beppu. Halfway you can make a stop at Chojabaru Visitor Center for a short walk through the Tadewara wetlands. From the wooden boardwalk, you have a good view of the mountain range and you can try to spot some birds in the reeds.

In the evening you can go shopping in YouMe Mall Town Beppu.

Day 15: Beppu

The last day of your trip, feels like hell, right? A perfect day to visit the boiling hells of Beppu.

Take the bus from your hotel to Kannawa Onsen. This is the starting point for a visit to most of the Beppu hells. You can buy a passe-partout for all hells at any of the Hells for 2100 Yen.

In no particular order you will visit:

White Lake Hell (Shiraike Jigoku): a milky white pond with a small garden surrounding it.
Mountain Monster Hell (Onimaya Jigoku): a small pool with crocodiles in tiny cages. Skippable!
Cooking Pot Hell (Kamado Jigoku): small green pond where you can enjoy a foot bath and eat steamed egg and tofu.
Mountain Hell (Yama Jigoku): small pool with animals in small cages. Not worth a visit in my opinion.
Ocean Hell (Umi Jigoku): a beautiful pond with tropical blue color.
Monk Hell (Oniishibozu Jigoku): mud pools with bubbles. A very interesting Hell to visit.

The remaining two hells:

Blood Pond Hell (Chinike Jikogu): a hot, red pool with beautiful plants at the edge. This one is great for taking pictures.
Geyser Hell (Tatsumaki Jigoku): a boiling hot geyser that sprouts twice per hour.

All Beppu Hells have good souvenir shops, but the best are at these last two hells. This is where I bought my very own red demon amulet that is now hanging in my Christmas tree.

You can buy a ticket for all Beppu Hells for 2100 Yen (Oct 2018 price) or pay 550 Yen entrance fee per hell. I think most of the hells are worth visiting, so buying a combined ticket is cheaper in the end.

After visiting the Beppu Hells you can walk down the hill to the train station and take a short train right back to the center of Beppu.

Where to stay in Beppu

I stayed in a Japanese room at Umikaoru Yado Hotel New Matsumi. The Japanese room is very big: you get two rooms basically. The hotel has public hot spring baths and free breakfast is included.

Ending your Kyushu and Yakushima Island trip

This was the last day of the trip. Time to go home.

You have several options here.

Spend a few days in Tokyo. I dropped off my rental car at Oita airport and took a plane to Tokyo for a few more days in the capital of Japan.
Fly home via Tokyo. Do the same as above, but transfer to another plane in Tokyo instead.
Fly home via Fukuoka. Drive to Fukuoka and drop your car off at the airport and take a plane home. Alternatively, you can drop off your car in Beppu or Oita and take the train to Fukuoka.

Practical information

How to get to Kyushu and start your trip

Kyushu is easily reachable by train, air, and boat.

By air

There are many airports on Kyushu Island. To name a few: Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Kagoshima, Oita. I flew from Amsterdam to Fukuoka (via Seoul), but you can easily fly to another airport in Japan and take the train to Fukuoka. If you are flying to Nagasaki, you can skip the day in Fukuoka and start this itinerary on day two.

By train

You can take the high-speed train from Tokyo or Osaka to Fukuoka station to start this round trip.

By boat

If you’re coming from South Korea (Busan area) you can catch a boat to Fukuoka.

Transport

In this itinerary, you will use both public transport and rental cars.

Fukuoka to Nagasaki to Kagoshima

You will travel the big distances by train using an All Kyushu Japan Rail Pass. Take the 5 days option costing 18,330 Yen (Dec 2019 price). This will cover your trip from Fukuoka to Nagasaki and your trip from Nagasaki to Kagoshima and will also allow an optional trip to Huis ten Bosch.

Within cities

Within Nagasaki, Kagoshima, and Beppu you will travel by bus and tram. I had a PASMO public transport card from a previous trip but only used it to get from the airport to the hotel in Fukuoka and in Beppu.

You have to pay the tram in Nagasaki in cash. Make sure you have small coins with you at all times, as you have to pay an exact fee; no change on the tram.

In Kagoshima, I bought a day ticket for the bus.

Ferries to Sakurajima and Yakushima Island

The ferry from Kagoshima Port to Sakurajima Island is very cheap. You can buy a ticket at the ferry port right before your trip. No need to reserve a seat in advance.

It is necessary to buy a retour ticket to and from Yakushima Island in advance. You can try buying one at the ferry port on the day you arrive in Kagoshima, but it is risky. You can read more about how to get to Yakushima Island in my Yakushima Island Special.

Rental cars

You will use two different rental cars on this trip. One on Yakushima Island (pick-up and drop off at the ferry port) and one from Kagoshima on day 10 until your last day in Beppu.

In theory, you can do this Japan trip by public transport. You’ll lack a lot of freedom though and you will need to skip certain activities.

When I visited Aso and Yufuin on my first trip to Japan in 2015, I immediately decided to come back later to explore the same area by car. My visit to this area was so much more worthwhile in 2018 because I could reach more remote spots along the way and stop whenever I wanted to take a picture.

Budget

This budget is based on a two-person party. It will be more expensive if you travel solo and have to pay for your accommodation and rental cars alone.

Transport

Flight from your hometown to Fukuoka: costs depend on where you live
Japan Rail Pass: 150 EUR (167 USD) per person
Hiring a car on Yakushima Island: 128 EUR (143 USD) in total
Hiring a car on the mainland: 418 EUR (466 EUR) in total
Gasoline: around 1000 kilometers for around 80 EUR (90 USD) in total
Ferry to and from Sakurajima: less than 3 EUR (3 USD) per person
Ferry to and from Yakushima Island: 127 EUR (142 USD) per person
Other public transport: less than 5 EUR (5 USD) per person

Food

Around 30 EUR daily per person for 15 days: 450 EUR (502 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 EUR daily per person for 15 days based on low to mid-range hotels: 600 EUR (669 USD) per person

Wifi

44 EUR (49 USD) in total for 15 days. You can order a Pocket Wifi via Klook.com or GetYourGuide.

Entrance fees

Less than 50 EUR (56 USD) per person

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in October 2018. It cost me around 1720 EUR (1918 USD) per person for a party of two, including all the above, but excluding intercontinental flights and souvenirs. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels and food) the total cost will be much lower.

The post Japan travel itinerary: 2 weeks in Kyushu and Yakushima Island appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Explore subtropical Yakushima Island in three days

Kim — Thu, 28 Nov 2019 15:00:00 +0000

Do you feel at home in a misty, subtropical forest protected by spirits? If yes, then Yakushima Island is the perfect travel destination for you.

Hiking trails? Check. Sandy beaches? Check? Diverse vegetation, yes! Yakushima has it all. Yakushima Island is a small subtropical island off the coast of Kagoshima, Kyushu in Japan. On the island you can find many ancient cedar trees; some of them around 7000 years old though you’ll probably agree with me that a thousand years old is already a pretty respectable age for a cedar tree.

Most of the island is covered by cedar forests and pretty much every single tree is covered by moss. Unless you climb one of the mountains (up to 2000 meters) to escape the moss… then you can see as far as the cities on the coast on clear days (and a vague apparition on less clear days).

Yakushima is probably best known from the anime Princess Mononoke, featuring the small Kodama, also known as forest spirits, and some very misty forests. The island receives a lot of rainfall throughout the year but if that is what it takes to make it this beautiful, then keep it coming.

>> Explore the south of Japan in two weeks with my Kyushu and Yakushima Island travel itinerary.

Practical information

How to get to Yakushima Island

You can get to Yakushima by plane or by ferry. Swimming is not the way to go. The closest airport and ferry terminal are in Kagoshima on Kyushu. The ferry trip from Kagoshima takes a bit less than two hours and has six sailings a day. Return tickets are 15,000 Yen.

You can buy your ticket at the Kagoshima ferry terminal on the same day or book in advance online. When booking online you can use the translate function in Chrome to fill in the forms as the website is Japanese only; it worked well enough for me. For Yakushima you can choose between Miyanoura port or Anbo port.

I do recommend booking in advance either online or at the ferry terminal: there were many seats available a few hours before our ride to Yakushima, but there were almost no seats free when we departed. On our way back from Yakushima, a group of students was on the same ferry as us and we wouldn’t have been able to buy tickets on the same day.

How to get around on Yakushima Island

You can get around by using public transport, but it is just not very convenient if you want to stop a lot along the way to take pictures or visit more remote areas.

I recommend hiring a car. Driving is easy as there are no big (crowded) cities on Yakushima. The route around the island is easy to navigate and there are plenty of parking spots available everywhere. The only more challenging part is that some areas have very narrow roads only suitable for one car at a time, for example when driving to Yakusugi or the UNESCO World Heritage trail on the western side of the island. But as there aren’t that many people on the road you only have to give way every now and then.

We used Orix to rent a car and I can recommend them. Their store is only a few minutes’ drive from the Miyanoura ferry terminal and they pick you up and drop you off at the ferry terminal if you communicate your arrival time. I also used this opportunity to rent this small rectangle-shaped compact car looking like a lego block: on my previous trip to Japan I saw them so much that I simply wanted to drive in one.

Also keep in mind that you have to drive on the left side of the road, so that can take some getting used to if you drive on the right side in your country.

Where to stay

I chose to stay at Tashiro Annex in Miyanoura because you can get there quickly from the ferry. From there it is only a 20 minutes drive to the trails in Shiratani Unsuikyo so you can do a trail on the day you arrive. The hotel offers Japanese and Western rooms and has hot spring baths for men and women. Laundry facilities are also present (very useful if you go hiking). You can eat dinner at the hotel if you make a reservation the day before and enjoy a multi-course dinner or walk into town to eat at one of the many restaurants. Breakfast is good but not too heavy as you can see in the picture above.

You can easily park your car at the parking lot opposite the hotel or use the free shuttle service from Miyanoura ferry. The hotel doesn’t look as good in real life as on the pictures but the rooms were clean and the hotel had all the facilities I was looking for, so I would probably stay here again if I return to do the Jomonsugi trail.

To search for the best hotels on Yakushima Island, click here.

Finishing up with some food recommendations

Flying mackerel at 恵比寿大黒とし restaurant.

Kamenote (Japanese Goose Barnacle) looking like turtle hands at 若大将 restaurant.

Yakushima in three days

You can find all sights mentioned below on my Yakushima Island map.

Day 1 - hiking in Shiratani Unsuikyo

After arriving on Yakushima, picking up your rental car and checking in to your hotel you can head to Shiratani Unsuikyo for a long (4 hour) or a short (1 hour) hike in the mysterious and misty forest called Shiratani Unsuikyo.

Shiratani Unsuikyo is a natural recreation forest that receives a lot of rain every year (what’s new). It is best known for its very old but also 1000 years young cedar trees. This area was used as inspiration for the movie Princess Mononoke. When I visited I was very lucky that it was misty and the area looked exactly like in the movie. Somehow rain and mist suits this area. On the downside: the trail got a bit slippery and because of heavy rainfall and typhoons a week before my visit I could only do the part of the trail that goes to the three thousand-year-old cedar tree (the red 1.2 km Yayoi Sugi trail taking 50 minutes) as the river crossing for the longer trails was flooded. So do check the weather circumstances before your visit to see if the trails are open. If you’re visiting at a better moment I recommend the longer 4-hour trail to Taikoiwa Rock.

The paths are easy and well maintained but do wear good hiking shoes as they can get slippery in the rain. There is only a little climbing involved. The flora is very diverse with especially the moss drawing attention. Entrance to the park is 500 Yen per person.

Return to Miyanoura and enjoy a meal in a nice restaurant and relax in the hot spring bath in your hotel.

Alternatively you can start the 10 hour Jomonsugi trail, the most iconic trail on the island and finish it the next day after spending a night in the mountains.

Day 2: Island roadtrip

I chose to go clockwise because I wanted to start the day with visiting stores but you can also go the other way. All stops listed below have been included in my Yakushima map.

Morning tea

If you like tea, then the teashop (有)屋久島八万寿茶園 is a good place to visit. They sell many types of tea grown on Yakushima Island, ranging from powdered green tea to full leaf green tea and fermented twigs tea. You can try some of them before buying.

Opening hours: 8:30 – 17:00

Drug Store MORI

Drug Store MORI is the best drug and snack store on the island. If you’re into Japanese cosmetics, then this is a good place to visit as the prices are pretty much the same or sometimes cheaper (when on sale) than on the mainland.

Opening hours: 09:00 – 22:00

Yakushima cedarwood

You’ll come across many souvenir shops selling woodcraft using Yakushima’s cedarwood. The big pieces are beautiful to watch, though not practical as a souvenir. I found a small handcrafted Kodama, one of the forest spirits from the Princess Mononoke movie, to bring home. It is now living in my not so wooden house.

Most shops on the island are open between 9:00 and 18:00.

Tashiro Coast

This rocky coast formed by lava was one of my favorite spots on Yakushima Island. The colors of the rocks ranged from yellow to red framed by green moss; the colors were simply beautiful under a gray (thunderous) sky. Seawater was being pushed into the air and the vegetation was unlike anywhere else. This is not a beach, only a rocky coast, but the mix of rocks, colors, vegetation and weather simply made the landscape beautiful.

You can park on the side of the road winding down to the coast. I parked before the ‘no cars allowed’ sign (for the preservation of the area) in a bend in the road and walked the rest of the way down. To me the walk down was part of the experience: you’re surrounded by a forest of low trees snaking around you until it suddenly ends and you can either go right to walk on the rocks or go left to observe the rocks from a stony beach. Some Japanese tourists drove all the way down to the coast and parked there. It is up to you.

Senpirono Falls

South of Anbo you can visit Senpiro-no-Taki waterfall. It is a very big waterfall with water flowing from granite cliffs surrounded by forest. You can park your car very close to the waterfall.

Hot spring with a view

Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen is an outdoor onsen with mixed-gender hot spring baths right next to the ocean. You can only visit this onsen at low tide.

UNESCO monkey forest path

Seibu Rindo Forest Path is a beautiful coastal road that passes to a UNESCO protected forest on the west coast of Yakushima in the Nagata area. Along the path, you can often spot monkeys and deer (though you can also find them in Yakusugi land). The path is often only wide enough for one car, so drive carefully.

White sandy beach at sunset

Take a picture of the beach near 県道78号 (all spots are marked on my Yakushima Island map).

Inakahama Beach sea turtle beach

Another white sand beach that is used by sea turtles as a nesting place from May to July.

Small waterfall cafe

Have a drink at the cafe near the very small waterfall 布引の滝. I’m always convinced there is a good reason for a place to be marked on Google Maps, but let’s face it: the homemade ginger ale and cake at the cafe nearby were the highlight of this waterfall stop.

Pirate harbor Isso

Well technically it is just a harbor but it reminded me both of a pirate harbor (outside of the Carribean) and of the Lofoten in Norway. On the west side of the harbor, you can take a good picture near the Shinto Altar. Isso is better known for its sandy beach but for me, it is about the harbor view.

Above I have only highlighted the stops that impressed me the most. Of course, there are many more things to see and stops to make but they’re easy to spot while driving. I challenge you not to stop every five minutes to take a picture.

Day 3: Mount Tachu hike

The hike to Tachudake at 1497m has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Hike. It takes about 6 hours to do a return trip (with minimal resting). With this hike, you combine the forest of Yakusugi Land with its mosses, ferns and evergreens with an alpine landscape. You start off in the forest until you reach the side track to Tenmon no Mori. After this, the relaxing forest walk is over and you start climbing.

You can easily do this trail on your own; it is well marked and not challenging (coming from someone who only does one or two of such trails a year). There are a few spots where you have to use a rope to climb some rocks, also to reach the viewpoint at the end, but they are easy.

It is quite a steep climb for a while and I saw some groups turning back when reaching the big boulder. But it is a pity to give up before reaching the end of the forest because you only have a view of the island from the top. On clear days (but also on less clear days) you can see all the way to the coastal cities while celebrating your success on top of the big rock. If you want to successfully blend into society: cook your instant noodles on top of the mountain.

Bring enough water for the first part of your trail. You can refill your bottles at the stream about halfway to two thirds to the top and at the same spot on your way back.

To start your trail, park your car at the Yakusugi Land parking lot and enter the trail. Halfway the 150-minute course you see the signs for the route to Tachudake. After visiting the top you return to that same sign and get back on the 150-minute course.

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Planning a trip to South Korea

Kim — Mon, 07 Oct 2019 13:30:45 +0000

Things to consider when planning your own South Korea travel itinerary, like your budget for your trip, travel plan, must-see places, balancing and timing.

I have taken South Korea as an example, but you can also apply this to itineraries to other countries. At the end of this blog post, I’ll list some differences with planning a trip to Japan.

1) Budget for your South Korea trip

The starting point for every travel plan is to determine your budget. Do you want to go backpacking or do you fancy more luxury? Determine the maximum amount of money you want to spend for the whole journey, including food, souvenirs and other small daily expenses. That is your starting point for planning your South Korea trip.

International flight

The easiest thing to start with is your international plane ticket. If you have no flexibility in your travel period, then this is set in stone. Look up the fare on a price comparison website and check your favorite airline directly. If you have some flexibility in your timing, then you can take inspiration from the prices. One day earlier or later can save you hundreds of euros/USD.

Hotel

I usually take 40 EUR a day as an average for hotel costs, using a mix of more expensive traditional houses in rural areas and cheaper motels-turned-hotels in cities. If you go backpacking, you can probably go with 20 – 30 EUR a day.

Food and drinks

For food and drinks, I always assume 30 EUR a day: sometimes I will eat expensive meals with lots of meat and fish and other days I order soup. Interestingly enough, I usually spend more on drinks during the day (especially when it’s above 25 degrees Celsius) than I do on food. You can easily get a meal for 5 EUR and pay the same amount for good coffee or interesting tea.

Wifi

Around 2 EUR a day. For Asia, I always order via Klook.

2) Choosing a travel method

Both traveling by car and public transport are very popular among visitors to South Korea. I usually mix both: public transport in big cities and a rental car between cities. If you don’t have a driver’s license, the choice is easy. For me, the determining factor in choosing to rent a car is that I want to visit more remote places, be able to visit more sites on one day and have scheduling flexibility.

If you don’t have a preference yet, then first pick the places you want to visit in the next step so you can see if your must-see places in South Korea are reachable by public transport.

After you’ve chosen your hotel locations in a later step, you can calculate the costs for using public transport between locations or a rental car and gasoline for the kilometers traveled. For rental cars, it also matters if you travel alone or with a group. For solo travelers, public transport is more cost-effective.

3) Write down your must-see places and make them the cornerstones for your route

You can find many example travel itineraries online which can inspire your own journey. On Where to Kim? I have shared itineraries for seven days in Seoul, the highlights of South Korea and the lesser-known south and west of South Korea, but you can also take inspiration from other blogs, pinterest boards and most of all maps.

On maps from either Google or Kakao, you can filter for historical locations and other highlights and watch pictures and reviews from people all over the world. Activate street view to ‘walk’ around in the area to take in other possible sites to visit and picture-worthy views.

Google Maps

Click on one of the pop-up icons on the map for more information. When you find some good ones, make sure to save them to your account so you can easily find them again later.

KakaoMap

In KakaoMap you can simply click on any name on the map to get a pop-up with pictures (if available).

Mark the places you want to visit the most and map them on a map to see how far apart they are. Depending on how much time you have, you might not be able to do them all.

4) South Korea travel route

Look at your must-see places map and see if you can find a pattern. You can do a small circle, big rectangle, semi-straight line or zigzag (S-pattern) through the country. Some examples from my itineraries:

South and west

Highlights

Seoul city trip

5) Where to stay

Choosing the right location for your hotel

When your must-see places cluster in a certain area, then that area is a good place to stay the night. You often have the choice between staying in the biggest city in the area or going for a more remote location.

When traveling by car, you will probably want to look for a hotel with free parking. The locations matter less, as you can reach any place. For bigger cities it might also be interesting to look for a hotel near an important bus, train or subway station so you can navigate the city by public transport.

When relying on public transport only, a nearby train, bus or subway station becomes more important. You can still stay in more remote locations, but make sure to check public transport routes and times for finding your ideal hotel.

One day or more days at one place

When I first started planning my own itineraries I would often stay only one night at a hotel. Over the years I transitioned to a multi-day stay, usually two or three days per location. An important reason for this is that it is more relaxing to do it this way. Also relevant in this is that I switched from 100% public transport to 80% travel by rental car and only using public transport in big cities. So now I usually pick a location from where I can reach all the nearby places within an hour’s drive. This way I can easily stay at a hotel for three days, avoid the hassle of checking in and out of hotels and moving luggage, while still seeing all the places I want to visit.

If you’re using public transport it might be more practical to switch hotels more often as it is easier to explore the area (especially at night) when your hotel is nearer.

Sightseeing while traveling

Keep in mind that you can also visit your must-see places while traveling from one hotel city to another. So even if you don’t stay overnight, you can still explore the areas you pass through.

Type of hotel

The offer of hotels on English websites is limited. Many hotels can only be found by searching on a Korean website, but on Agoda and Booking.com you see only a small part of the total offer. In many cases, you can also look for a hotel on the spot and not book in advance. This is practical if you’re looking for motels or hostels, but if you have certain requirements, then advanced booking is recommended. For example, rooms at traditional Korean houses are fully booked many months in advance.

For the ‘real’ Korean experience, a stay at a traditional Korean house is recommended. Often a huge traditional Korean breakfast is included and perhaps also some home-made snacks during the day. Because of the higher price, you will probably only book one or two traditional houses during your entire stay. If you book cheaper hotels on other days, you can stay at traditional Korean houses while keeping your daily accommodation budget below 40 EUR a day. A nice extra is the included breakfast: it is so extensive and well-balanced that you can buy less food for your other meals that day.

Another reason I usually book cheaper hotels in cities is that I hardly spend any time inside my hotel room anyway; I only sleep and shower there, while in more remote areas I often take a few hours to hang around the complex (usually on my own terrace in front of the room).

6) Balance is everything

Your personal taste is maybe the most important factor in this: if you simply love big cities, then choose to stay there most of the time. If you are looking for some peace and quiet, look for a rural area. Most people, however, are looking for a balanced trip. So keep the following things in mind:

Mix culture, history and nature
Big cities and rural areas
Larger versus smaller travel distances between hotels
A day or afternoon for resting in between
Possibility to switch activities to the previous or next day if the weather requires it
Luxurious hotels for lounging vs cheap hotels where you only spend the night

7) Timing

If you visit when the seasons are changing, it is good to consider whether you should visit the southern or northern part of the country first. For example: if you visit in October, then it might be a good idea to go north first, as the temperature will start to drop towards the end of the month and by going north first you will enjoy higher temperatures in the north before going south where the temperature drops later. Also relevant are the seasons, you can check when autumn foliage peaks or when flowers start to bloom in spring. This will be different for every area, so plan accordingly. If there is a festival or concert you want to go to, try to be in the right location for those as well. You probably won’t be able to optimize for all your wishes, but try to include as many as you can.

8) Spontaneity

Even if you plan everything in advance, keep in mind that it is your holiday and you are free to just ignore everything you planned to visit and visit whichever place inspires you at the moment.

If you list many optional activities per day, you can choose which one you do considering the weather and what you feel like doing in the morning. There are many temples, historical houses and cable cars all over the country: even though they are all beautiful, you probably don’t want to do all of them unless they hold a special place in your heart.

You don’t have to plan everything in advance, because you can easily do your research while traveling and add new sites to your route. Or just keep driving and see what catches your eye that day and venture into the big unknown.

9) Finding Korean food nearby

One of the things that surprised me the most after visiting South Korea twice is that breakfast seems to be non-existent for first-time visitors to South Korea. Restaurants open after 11 am, hotels don’t always offer breakfast and so on. Breakfast in South Korea was probably my most googled subject during my travels. After the second time though I found my way, so I wrote a blog post about my search for breakfast, which also applies to dinner or any other meal (fish or meat) you want to have.

10) Extra tips: what about planning a trip to Japan?

Most of the above applies to planning a trip to Japan as well, but some differences require your attention. Check out my itinerary for Kyushu and Yakushima in the south of Japan, and a route that will show you all the highlights.

Hotel bedrooms in japan are really small, so look at the square meters listed for a bedroom. If possible, go for twin beds, so you at least have some space around the bed to store your luggage and you don’t end up with a wall directly against all sides of your bed. In South Korea, on average, the hotel rooms were a bit bigger.
In Japan, people drive on the left side of the road. If you also drive on the left side in your country, you’ll have it easy, but if not, be prepared to activate your windshield wiper instead of your car’s turn signal.
Many hotels in Japan have onsens. If you like them, keep an eye on that when choosing hotels.
Breakfast is more often included in hotel plans in Japan (and at a more affordable rate). So your search for breakfast will be much easier in Japan!

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The south and west of South Korea: a travel itinerary

Kim — Mon, 23 Sep 2019 15:23:19 +0000

Tour South Korea in three weeks by car and visit the lesser-known south and west with this travel itinerary. You’ll see Ganghwa, Namwon, Wando and more. If you are looking for a well-balanced mix of big cities, culture and nature, while skipping the so-called ‘highlights’ then this travel itinerary is for you.

This trip is ideal for second-time visitors that have already seen the highlights of South Korea. If this is your first visit to South Korea, you might want to check my other South Korea travel itinerary featuring the highlights and must-see places for first-time visitors.

Travel itinerary overview

Ganghwa – day 1 – 2
Chuncheon – day 3 – 5
Chungju – day 6 – 7
Daegu – day 8 – 9
Namwon – day 10 – 12
Boseong – day 13 – 14
Wando – day 15 – 16
Mokpo – day 17 – 18
Boryeong – day 19 – 20
Suwon – day 21
Practical information (including detailed travel budget information)

If you have more time, you can add some days in Seoul at the end of this itinerary

Use this itinerary if you want a comfortable trip. It’s not a quick see-it-all, but a well-balanced itinerary using one city as a base for exploring the area.

Check out my Lesser-known south and west of South Korea Itinerary map in Google maps.

Ganghwa - day 1 - 2

Ganghwa is only a 30-40 minute drive from Incheon airport. The island, connected to the mainland by bridges, played a key role in opening Korea to the world. From the northern tip of Ganghwa, you can see North Korea.

Day 1 - North Ganghwado and Gyodong

The first day of this mid and west South Korea journey is perfect for a road trip on the islands of Ganghwa and Gyodong. There are many historic sites originally used in the defense of Ganghwa and Korea. You probably don’t want to visit all of them and instead choose to spend more time at some of the sites to also enjoy the area surrounding it.

Visit (one of) the fortresses Deokjinjin (mid), Gwangseongbo (north) and Chojijin (south). If you only have time for one I suggest you visit Deokjinjin as it has a gate, cannon defense and a fort and then drive north to Ganghwa Fortress’ four gates. In the middle, you can also see an Anglican Church (in Hanok style!) and Yongheunggung Royal Residence, so this is a good area for sightseeing and having a drink in a cafe.

Next up is Ganghwa Dolmen; a well-advertised place where you can see a dolmen. Skip this if you want to win some time (or simply take a picture of the dolmen from beyond the gate). There is a more interesting dolmen site further south that you can visit on day 2 of this itinerary.

If you like museums you can visit Hwamunseok Cultural Centre to learn more about how the people of Ganghwa lived long ago.

Drive further north on one of the smaller roads for a nice view of the rice fields and farms until you get to Ganghwa Peace Observatory at the northernmost part of the island to look at North Korea with binoculars. On your way to the observatory, you have to check-in at an army post to receive your visitor card and return it to the same army post on the way back. When we got there the soldiers were very excited to see some foreigners.

When entering Gyodong you also have to pick up a visitor card at an army post. Another interesting fact: whenever you enter Ganghwa from Gimpo, your car gets an anti-epidemic car wash. Motorcyclists too!

After visiting the Ganghwa Peace Observatory, drive west to the smaller island Gyodong for a drink in Gyodong-myeon, another look at North Korea at Gyodong Observatory (meaning two wild binoculars) and a visit to Gyodong Hyanggyo, a beautiful sight without any tourists. Even Google hasn’t filmed the roads yet, so enjoy the sight. If you want a sneak preview, check out this area in KakaoMap.

Read more about the must-see places on Ganghwa, Gyodong and Seokmodo

Day 2 - South Ganghwa and Seokmodo

Visit Jeondeungsa Temple in the southern part of Ganghwa for a walk around the temple grounds and some traditional tea with a rice cake mugwort snack. If you feel active you can walk up the stairs near the entrance of the temple to get a nice view of the island and the temple grounds from above.

After your visit to the temple, head south for a quick stop at Huaedondae fort and a view of the ocean mud.

From there, drive to Seongmodo / Seokmodo, another island with sights not yet spoiled by Google Maps (it’s even keeping the bridge linking Seokmodo and Ganghwa secret). Use KakaoMap for a more recent view of the island.

On the island, you can see Bomunsa temple and go for a walk in the Seokmodo Arboretum. After returning to Ganghwa island, make a quick stop at the lesser-known dolmen and gravesite in the middle of the island. Also nearby is Ganghwa Arimae World; a museum about agriculture for kids but also very interesting for adults as you can learn more about the fruit and plants grown on Ganghwa. The museum is in Korean but with many pictures making it easy to understand.

Alternatively, you can hike up to Chamseongdan Altar on Ganghwa for a nice view of the whole island.

Where to stay in Ganghwa

I chose Docking Hotel just across the bridge from Ganghwa (so in Gimpo actually) because of its location, closeness to restaurants and good price. The hotel itself was ok but had just changed owner and now only accepts cash. Also, the location on Agoda isn’t accurate (it is actually a 5-minutes drive further east) and it took some time to find the hotel.

Chuncheon - day 3 - 5

Chuncheon is a popular getaway for those looking to spend a day outside the bustling capital of Seoul. It is known as the city featured in the Korean TV drama Winter Sonata.

Day 3 - Paju Book City, Nuri Peace Park, Soyanggang sidewalk, Chuncheon Myeongdong street

Before going to Chuncheon, make a quick stop at Paju Book City. Have a drink in one of the cafes while looking at shelves full of books. If you’re up for another “border with North Korea” experience, head north past Paju to visit Nuri Peace Park to enjoy the park and contemplate war and peace while watching art.

From there drive east and enjoy the mountain road when you continue to Chuncheon after visiting the waterfall. Explore Chuncheon in the evening and visit Soyanggang sidewalk for a nice view of the city and lake. For dinner, head to Myeongdong street to try the Dakgalbi Chuncheon is famous for.

Day 4 - Nami Island, Petite France, Garden of Morning Calm

Today’s sightseeing starts at Nami Island, only a short drive from Chuncheon. Park your car at the ferry parking lot northwest of the island and take a short ferry ride to Nami. On the island, famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata, you can take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard and grab something to eat or drink.

After your visit to Nami, take the ferry back to your car and drive over to Petite France, which has been used as a film set for many tv shows as well (example: My Love from Another Star). I skipped this stop as I was a bit pressed for time and because I can actually drive to France from my hometown. For this same reason, I skipped Huis ten Bosch (Little Holland) near Nagasaki last year.

The next stop is the Garden of Morning Calm, a beautifully designed garden in a valley surrounded by mountains. You can see blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snowy landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as the whole garden will be illuminated: a true winter wonderland.

Day 5 - Yanggu, Unification Hall, Eulji Observatory, Hwacheon Peace Dam, Gubongsan Observatory

It’s time for a road trip again. Drive northeast of Chuncheon towards Yanggu Rodeo street; a street decorated with art though in a very smalltown way.

From there on drive further north along the mountain road to Eulji Observatory. Eulji Observatory is located at the ridge of Gachilbong Peak at only 1km from the DMZ. The 4th Infiltration Tunnel is nearby. From the observatory, you can see the Punchbowl (bowl-shaped Haean basin). Make sure you reach the observatory in time as the last admission is 16:00 in winter and 17:00 in summer. You’re not allowed to enter the 4th Infiltration Tunnel during lunch time (12:00 – 13:00). Also keep in mind that times may change and the tunnel might close because of the weather (like a tornado; this happened to me but luckily I checked the website the day before and could change my itinerary). A visit to the observatory and tunnel is only possible by car or organized tour; no bicycles or motorcycles allowed.

Before you can visit the tunnel and observatory you need to stop by Unification Hall to register your visit. They will give you a blue paper for access to Eulji Observatory and a yellow and pink paper for the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Make sure you don’t hand in your yellow or pink paper at Eulji Observatory (that happened to us: the soldier at the guard post wouldn’t let us leave with our yellow paper) or you’ll have to get a new one at the Unification Hall before visiting the Tunnel.

You can also visit Eulji Observatory as a day trip from Sokcho.

Continue the roadtrip west towards Hwacheon and stop at the Peace Dam to strike the peace bell (the tourist guides at the information stand will help you) and enjoy the view on top of the dam.

From there, head back to Gubongsan Observatory in Chuncheon to watch the sunset.

What to read in Chuncheon

On days 3 and 5 you visit the border with North Korea. So my reading recommendation for this part of the trip is:

Masaji Ishikawa - A River of Darkness: One Man’s Escape from North Korea

About the treatment of someone stuck between two worlds. It makes you want to fix the world, but just like the main character, you probably won’t be able to do anything about it.

Half-Korean, half-Japanese, Masaji Ishikawa has spent his whole life feeling like a man without a country. This feeling only deepened when his family moved from Japan to North Korea when Ishikawa was just thirteen years old, and unwittingly became members of the lowest social caste. His father, himself a Korean national, was lured to the new Communist country by promises of abundant work, education for his children, and a higher station in society. But the reality of their new life was far from utopian.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Where to stay in Chuncheon

I stayed at OST Hotel in the middle of Chuncheon near Myeongdong street and shops because of its good location and price. I can recommend this hotel as a low budget option.

Chungju - day 6 - 7

Chungju is a beautiful town with hot springs surrounded by National Parks.

Day 6 - National Park, Hot spring bath

As Chungju is not far from Chuncheon, there is plenty of time today to visit one of the national parks. Take your pick from Chiaksan National Park, Songnisan National Park, Woraksan National Park or Sobaeksan National Park. Tomorrow you can visit one of the others.

If you’re looking for an easy and short trail, head over to Songnisan for a short hike and lunch near the trail.

Enjoy a hot spring bath in your hotel or one of the spas in the evening.

Alternative options if you don’t want to go hiking in a national park:

About half an hour northwest of Chungju, you can find the Rock-carved buddhas of Bonghwang-ri. In the middle of nowhere, in a quiet village surrounded by farms, you can find this small and unknown point of interest. After climbing a few stairs, which takes only a few minutes, you reach the stone buddha’s carved in the rock. The remote location and the quiet nature of the area make this a very good place for a small altar.

Closer to Chungju you can visit two parks: Jungangtap Historic Park and Chungju Tangeumdae. We chose to go to Tangeumdae, meaning ‘a rock platform for playing the gayageum’, associated with the musician Ureuk who would play the gayageum at this site. From the park, you have a good view of the river and many sculptures and memorial pagodas can be seen on a walk through the park.

Right next to Tangeumdae (but below the hill) you can find Chungju World Martial Arts Park which is often used for festivals. During my visit on 5 October, the Chungju Agricultural Products Hanmadang Festival was held allowing us to try many local specialties (it was tiny apple and sweet potato season apparently). So if you’re visiting in early October, keep an eye on this festival (충주농산물 한마당 축제).

South of Chungju lies Suok Pokpo Falls; a beautiful waterfall with a pavilion that is easily reached from the nearby parking lot. Photo tip: stand next to the pavilion to take a picture of both the waterfall and the pavilion.

Day 7 - Cheongpung Cable Car, Dodamsambong Peaks, Guinsa Temple

Start the day with a beautiful drive from Chungju or Suanbo along road 508 through Woraksan National Park to get to Cheongpung Cable Car. From the top of the cable car platform, you can see Jecheon lake and the surrounding mountains. In the cafe and bakery on top, you can have a coffee break while still taking in this fantastic view. If I ever return to this area, I’ll definitely take the cable car (one of the best in South Korea) to the top again to spend some more time on the platform.

Drive east from Cheongpung to Danyang to see Danyang’s Dodamsambong Peaks; one of the eight views of Danyang. If the season is right you get this beautiful view of the three rocks and pavilion with a colorful flower field in front.

The next stop is Guinsa Temple, one of the most incredible temples of South Korea. From the temple, after reaching the top, you have a terrific view of the whole temple area surrounded by mountains. Be prepared to walk half an hour uphill to reach this top. On the way, you pass the temple stay buildings that were built in the same style. But the top, that’s where the real sights are.

Alternatively, you can skip the above and go hiking all day.

Where to stay in Chungju

I chose to stay at Hotel Screen in the Suanbo area of Chungju because it is surrounded by national parks and offers a hot spring bath.

What to watch when visiting Chungju

Svaha: The Sixth Finger

Interesting movie taking place in the Chungju area. There are many references to the buddhist centres in Chungju, Jecheon, Danyang, Jeongseon and Taebaek. The scenery is very nice to watch and gives you an idea of what the area looks like.

Description: Pastor Park works to expose suspicious religious groups. He’s hired to look into the cult group Deer Mount. Meanwhile, Police Captain Hwang investigates a murder case and the main suspect is a member of the Deer Mount cult.

The movie is available on Netflix (in my country).

Daegu - day 8 - 9

Day 8 - Mungyeong Fortress and Tunnel, Hamchang Art Road, Daegu

After many days in smaller cities and visiting national parks, it is time to enjoy the big and vibrant city Daegu. But before you go there, you will make some stops in small, lesser-known towns.

The first stop of today is Mungyeong to see Gomosanseong Fortress. This fortress has a beautiful location on top of a hill and gives a good view of the surrounding mountainous area and the river flowing in between. North of the fortress gate you can find an open-air traditional Korean houses ‘museum’ (more like three houses). Also nearby is Tokkibiri Cliffside Road, a famous trade route, that you can reach by following the fortress wall east.

Before heading back to your car, you can visit Mungyeong Omija Theme Tunnel near the parking lot to observe mural art and other artistic decorations in the tunnel.

The next stop is Hamchang to follow the Hamchang Art Road. This road leads you in a circle through the village, showing mural art (not that much) and other artistic expressions but more interestingly it shows you an authentic village (small town) in the countryside with nice houses. Start near Hamchang Train Station and follow the white line that has been edged into the street (it looks like someone spilled paint) through town.

On the road, you can also find Tomb of King Goryeong-Gaya (Gaya Royal Tomb): a not very touristic site but perhaps one of the most beautiful tombs I visited on this trip.

Continue to your hotel in Daegu and take the subway to Kim Gwang Seok Street: a street dedicated to the deceased singer Kim Gwang Seok. The whole street has been decorated with colorful (mural) art. Have a drink at one of the many cafes while enjoying the view.

When it gets dark it is the perfect time to explore the shopping area near Dongseong-ro and find a restaurant that serves Daegu Makchang (grilled intestines).

If you have some spare time during the day, you can also take the cable car up to Apsan Park and Observatory for a good view of the city and a hike.

Day 9 - Gyeongju

Today’s highlight is a day trip to Gyeongju. Alternatively, you can visit Andong, which I wrote about in my Highlights of South Korea itinerary. Gyeongju is often referred to as ‘the museum without walls’, due to the many archaeological sites in the area.

Start with a visit to Gyeongju’s Gyochon Traditional Village to observe traditional houses. If you visit out of season (and in my case on a Tuesday) many restaurants and attractions will be closed but you can still wander through the streets and watch the hanok houses. Parking tip: park at the parking lot to the left of the village for free parking. You have to pay for the parking spaces outside of the lot.

Next to the village, you can find Woljeonggyo Bridge, originally leading to Wolseong palace, a royal palace of the Silla dynasty.

Walk north from the Woljeonggyo Bridge towards Cheomseongdae Observatory, the oldest surviving star-gazing platform in Asia. On your way, you can see Gyeongju Hwangnamdong remains on the left side.

Northwest of Cheomseongdae Observatory, you can visit Daereungwon Tomb Complex to see the Tomb of King-Michu and Cheonmachong. Also interesting here are the curved trees and fruit trees in the park.

East of Cheomseongdae Observatory you can visit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, the secondary palace used by the crown prince during the Silla period. During the Goryeo and Joseon period, the pond was referred to as Anapji Pond.

A fifteen minutes drive south of this historical site heavy area you can find Seochulji Pond, a site pretty much ignored by tourists and therefore blissfully quiet. The pond is at its best when the lotus flowers in the pond are in full bloom, but even if they are not the pond is worth a visit because of the lay of the land, the trees surrounding the pond and the buildings in the area.

If you have more time you can drive half an hour east to visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.

When evening falls head back to your hotel in Daegu and visit one of the many restaurants in the city for a good meal.

Where to stay in Daegu

I stayed at an apartment (Dan Home), because I found one with a good price near a subway station I wanted to be close to (Banwoldang) and near a shopping and restaurant area.

Namwon - day 10 - 12

Day 10 - Jianjae Pass, Odogae Pass, Jirisanjomang Park, Changwon, Byeoksongsa Temple, Seoamjeongsa Temple

The next hotel in Namwon is within two hours driving distance from Daegu. But as there are many places to visit in the area, you can go sightseeing until evening falls.

Drive west to Hamyang and take the scenic drive along the Odogae Pass (or Jianjae Pass) into Jirisan National Park. The Odogae Pass was designated as one of the 100 most beautiful roads of Korea. Along the road, you can also the First Gateway and Jirisanjomang Park.

Head further south to visit the village of Changwon and have a drink at 마을카페안녕 (closed on Mondays).

Drive further south to visit the secluded Byeoksongsa Temple. Walk to the top to have a great view of the temple site surrounded by mountains.

The next stop is Seoamjeongsa Temple. Of all the sites I visited during this South Korea itinerary, this was perhaps the site I was most impressed with because it was so beautiful. When you enter the area you walk past rock-carved guardians, between walls of stone until you reach very well-maintained temples surrounded by mountains. There is a cave with walls completely covered by rock-carvings. And so on. It is easily one of the most impressive temples in South Korea.

Parking tip: you can drive all the way to both temples if you visit out of season. Drive past the bigger parking lot with shops and go right for Byeoksongsa Temple (many parking spots) and left for Seoamjeongsa Temple (only five parking spots, so you have to be lucky).

From here, follow the mountain road until you reach your hotel in Namwon.

If you’re up early, you can also make the following stops before heading to Hamyang.

The first place to visit today is Miryang Man-Eosa to see the temple overlooking a field of black stones spread all the way down the mountain. Afterward, head into Miryang for a drink and a visit to Mubongsa and Yeongnamnu Pavillion overlooking the river around Sammun-dong.

Also near Miryang is Yerim Seowon; a school turned shrine. This site probably looks a lot like Dosanseowon near Andong, but is not as well-known.

From here, drive north to Haeinsa Temple in Gayasan National Park. This temple complex is surrounded by mountains so a visit is probably already worth it because of the road that takes you there.

Southwest of Gayasan National Park, you can visit Daebyeong-myeon to eat at a restaurant and take some pictures of the nearby lake.

Day 11 - Jinan Red Ginseng Spa, Maisan Provincial Park, Tapsa Temple

Head to Maisan Provincial Park to visit Tapsa Temple and Eunsusa. Both temples are located in a very scenic area. Eunsusa has one big oval ‘mountain’ behind it and Tapsa Temple is surrounded by many stones; both are good sites for a stroll and taking pictures. Can you spot all the buddhas and alcoves hidden at the temple site?

From the parking lot, you have to walk about twenty minutes to reach Tapsa Temple. But before you get there you first pass Geumdangsa Temple: a teaser for what’s to come.

If you feel active, you can also go hiking in Maisan Provincial Park.

This afternoon is for relaxing at the Red Ginseng Spa in Jinan. After entering you follow the five-room program.

The Harmony Therapy room: you smear yourself with mud and relax for ten minutes on the comfortable stone chairs until the showers start spraying water from the ceiling washing the mud off.
The Stone Therapy room: lie down and relax for ten minutes on a bed of hot stones.
The Aroma Therapy room: after drinking a red ginseng shot, you can lie down for fifteen minutes in a bubbling red ginseng bath using the herbal pillow provided.
After drying in the hot-and-cold air room, you enter the Herbal Therapy room: you get to lie down for twenty minutes on a herbal/hay bed in a warm room. They actually forgot to get us out, so we were still there after 45 minutes… very relaxed of course.
The Bubble Therapy room: come into contact with your inner child while playing with bubbles. You can completely cover yourself (or your companions) with eye-friendly soap. As in the Harmony room, you can wash it all off when the showers in the ceiling start spraying water.

After finishing the therapy rooms, or in between, you can visit the bubble bath on the rooftop, providing a great view of the two mountain tops of Maisan Provincial Park. Inside the spa, you can also enjoy the indoor room and the floating room.

The staff will help you get everywhere on time. To enter the spa you need a shower cap that you can rent at the reception desk. Towels are provided.

For pictures of the rooms, check out the blog post by Hedgers Abroad.

If you’re traveling in October, try to time your visit to Jinan during the Jinan Red Ginseng Festival (9-13 October in 2019). If you’re lucky you can catch a performance from a K-Pop group, but even if you visit on a non-festival day a visit to the town is worth it to sample red ginseng products and local specialties.

Day 12 - Jirisan National Park, Seodo Station, Gwanghallu Pavilion, Namwon

Go hiking in Jirisan National Park. You can go for an all-day hike (or overnight) or just sample Jirisan by driving through the Cheoneunsa-Seongsamjae Course and do the Nogodan Course (an easy one hour and fifteen minutes hike).

After a morning hike or as an alternative day program, head to Seodo Station, just north of Namwon, to visit the filming site of the 2018 K-Drama Mr. Sunshine.

Back in Namwon (because you have to visit the city you stay in after all), head to Gwanghallu Pavilion, known for the Korean folk tale Chunhyangjeon.

If you like museums, Kim Byeong Jong Museum (남원시립김병종미술관) is recommended. The architecture of the building is interesting because of the way it uses space and overflowing water. When I visited during the Sound of Namwon festival in 2019, there was an exhibition about sound. Even though there were only three galleries and therefore not much to see, the exhibition was worth it and reminded me of the sound of the flowing water outside the building and the sound of wind catchers in the shape of colorful insects catching the wind.

If you’re visiting in October when the lantern festival hits Jinju (1-13 October in 2019), then head to Jinjuseong Fortress in Jinju to join the festivities. It was one of the more interesting festivals I visited in South Korea with its many colorful lanterns in many forms, the illuminated Jinjuseong Fortress and good food stalls next to the river. During the festival, you can also visit the fortress and observe the fortress wall, temple and pagoda on top of the hill.

Where to stay in Namwon

I stayed at Namwon Hotel because I got charmed by the picture of the hotel surrounded by nature. In reality, the building looked a bit worn, but the owner was a really nice man, making us free breakfast every morning (fried egg, apple, steamed sweet potato and toast). This hotel is near Jirisan and Maisan Provincial Park.

Boseong - day 13 - 14

Day 13 - Damyang/Gwangju or Gwangyang/Suncheon or Yeosu/Dolsando

If you have never been to this area before, you have a very interesting choice to make.

Go to Damyang and Gwangju to visit Juknokwon Bamboo Forest in Damyang and the Student Uprising monument in Gwangju.
Go to Gwangyang and Suncheon to visit Gubongsan Observatory, Suncheon Drama Film set and Suncheon Bay National Garden and Wetland Reserve.
Roadtrip to Yeosu and Dolsando (more practical if you are staying in Suncheon or Gwangyang than Boseong)

See my Highlights of South Korea travel itinerary day 12 – 15 for more information about the above.

Day 14 - Goheung peninsula, Jeokgeumtto Island, Naenarodo Island

It’s time to explore one of the lesser-known peninsulas in South-Korea: Goheung. Unspoiled by tourism, the fishing and farming industry seemingly unbothered by the fast-moving world further north, in other words: a very unique place to visit, so go there before it’s too late.

Start your road trip with a visit to the fishing village on Jeokgeumtto Island. There is a bridge going from Goheung to Jeokgeumtto but it’s not yet visible on Google Maps. Once the bridges connecting Goheung to Yeosu peninsula are finished, this area will become really interesting (and attract more tourism) as you can also visit the islands in between. But already the fishing village with its decorated houses and the small road around the island not yet optimized for vehicles is worth a visit.

Going back to the east side of Goheung, you can visit Yeongnam Yongbawi (영남용바위) rock area to see the cliffs shaped by the seawater over time and, if you’re lucky, see the locals in action fishing and looking for shellfish.

Nearby is Goheung Observatory (고흥우주발사전망대) with a rotating cafe on the top level providing a great view of the many small islands in the sea surrounding Goheung peninsula.

Continue the road trip towards Naenarodo Island while observing the peaks of Paryeongsan Mountain and the colorful murals on the walls in Yeongnam-myeon village.

On Naenarodo Island you can find a cafe (하얀노을카페) with a brilliant view of the islands in the area and an open terrace which is perfect for relaxing while watching the sun go down in the ocean.

Where to stay in Boseong

I stayed in a two-bedroom villa with a terrace at Chungnokdang, a traditional Korean house in Boseong surrounded by tea fields. It was a very beautiful area to just wander around and relax a bit. The tea plants higher up are not well-maintained at all: I see a job opportunity there. The lady of the house does use the lower region to make her own tea. Breakfast was great (many side-dishes) and the hosts were very nice. This traditional house was of better quality (better hygiene, better maintenance) than the one Nongamjongtaek I stayed at last year in Andong. But the one in Andong felt more relaxing because the area surrounding it was more nature than village and there was more space for simply hanging out and relaxing for a day.

Wando - day 15 - 16

Wando is an island in the southern part of the country, connected to the mainland by a bridge. It’s most famous for Cheonghaejin; the headquarters of Jang Bogo who dominated the sea routes in the Yellow Sea in the ninth century.

Day 15 - Boseong Tea Plantation, Gangjin Bay Ecological Park, Cheonghaejin, Jang Bogo Statue, Wando Tower

Pay a visit to Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation in the morning. If you’re visiting in May, see if you can plan your visit around the annual tea festival. You can walk around the tea fields and even go up for a very nice view of the surrounding area. Don’t forget to sample and buy some tea at the tea museum/store.

The next stop is Gangjin Bay Eco Park. This park, with the parking lot completely covered by solar panels, very much resembles Suncheon Wetlands, but then without tourists. You can walk on the boardwalks in between reed and water with mountains in the background and take all the pictures you want!

After entering Wando, you can find Cheonghaejin island on the eastcoast. You can visit the island by crossing the bridge that connects it to the bigger Wando on foot. On the island, you can see many historical sites related to general Jang Bogo. It basically feels like you’re on your own paradise island and it isn’t hard to imagine the Koreans of the past used this island as a naval base.

Back on Wando, not far south of Cheonghaejin, you can see the Statue of Jang Bogo on top of a building resembling a ship.

In the afternoon and evening, you can explore Wando town and head to Wando Tower when it gets dark to see the illuminated tower and city.

I also highly recommend a visit to Wando’s Sea Algae Center in the harbor of Wando before 6 pm: the visual representation inside the museum is beautiful and there are English movies about the different types of seaweed and abalone cultivated on Wando and the surrounding islands. On your visit to Bogildo tomorrow you will see many seaweed farms and if you look closely you can spot abalone processing shops in Wando town.

Day 16 - Bogildo Island: Yunseondo Grove, Nakseoje, Goksudang, Manggeut observatory, Yesongri observatory, Song Si-yeol rock

Head to Hwaheunpo Port on the western side of Wando to take a ferry to Bogildo, also called the most beautiful island in Wando, just 12 km off the coast of South-Korea. The whole island is a maritime national park, wrapped in evergreen forest and high rising hills.

The ferry itself is the first attraction: join the locals and lie down on the heated floor for the duration of the fifty-minute journey to Dongcheon port on the island Nohwa (Nowhado).

The most well-known site to visit on Bogildo is Yunseondo Grove, a secluded garden in the center of the island with the representative pattern from the Joseon dynasty.

Nearby you can also visit the traditional houses and library Goksudang and Nakseojae.

By taking the road on the western side of the island you can reach Manggeut Observatory and Book-ri Dinosaur Egg Fossils Beach. From the observatory, you have a good view of the coastline of Bogildo and of the surrounding islands. The Dinosaur Egg Beach is a very good place for some pictures of the sea standing amidst the egg-shaped stones on the beach.

On the eastcoast of Bogildo you can stop for a picnic (bring your own lunch!) at Yesongri observatory while watching the harbor with fishing boats and seaweed farms. This is a very nice spot.

Also on the eastern side of Bogildo you can visit Song Si-yeol writing rock to see the poem written on the rock. I was very lucky with the weather on this part of my trip: the sky was growing dark, but the sun was still shining and the yellow rocks of the cliff were illuminated against a very bright blue/green sea. In other words: the view here is beautiful.

Some practical tips: when I visited none of the restaurants and cafes on Bogildo (if any) were open. So make sure to bring provisions. Across the bridge, in Nohwa’s Imok port, you can find many restaurants and cafes.

The ferry to and from Bogildo operates once every hour; the first one from Wando at 07:00 and the last one returning at 17:20 (timetable of October 2019).

Where to stay in Wando

I stayed at Wandonesia, a hotel near the harbor, offering a nice view of said harbor from the rooftop terrace. It’s a place I would recommend for whoever visits Wando: spacious rooms, nice hosts, good location. The cozy cafe on the first floor serves bagels with coffee or tea for breakfast (included). Only one thing to keep in mind: there is no elevator taking you to the rooms on the 3rd-5th floor.

Mokpo - day 17 - 18

Mokpo is a city in the southwestern part of South Korea, surrounded by islands serving as a protective barrier for the city against the sea.

Day 17 - Dadohaehaesang National Park, Haesin Cheonghaepogu Filming Set, Dosolam Hermitage, Duryunsan Mountain

In the morning you can pay a visit to the southern coastline of Wando for a stroll along the coast in Dadoheasang National Park.

From there, head to Haesin Cheonghaepogu Filming Set to watch the reconstructed (pirate) village where many films and series were shot. For example Haesin, Chuno, Rookie Historian Gu Hae Ryung and many more.

The next stop is Dosolam Hermitage on the mainland (west of Wando). With a walk of less than half an hour from the parking lot, you have a beautiful view of the rocky mountains and the surrounding area.

From there drive towards Haenam for a visit to Duryunsan Mountain. You can take the cable car or hike for 2-3 hours to reach the top for a beautiful view of the surrounding area, including Duryunsan’s eight peaks and if you are lucky, Hallasan on Jeju. In the provincial park, Duryunsan is part of you can also find many temples and traditional houses surrounded by mountains and trees if you follow the road south.

Afterward, head to your hotel in Mokpo. In the evening you can explore Pyeonghwa Square and see Mokpo Love Gate. For dinner or a drink, you can take a stroll over the Street of Roses.

Day 18 - Jeungdo Salt Farm, 1987 Filming Set, Gatbawi Rock

Today’s main attraction is Jeungdo Salt Farm and to get there you have to drive north of Mokpo towards Muan-gun and Sinan-gun. In Muan you can observe the Muan Red Clay Mud Flat and the vegetable farms on red clay before reaching Jeungdo Island via Saokdo Island.

Jeungdo is known for its Salt Farm and the related Salt Museum, Sea Salt Ice Cream and Salt Mirrors but my highlight of the day was Taepyeong Yeomsaeng Botanical Garden. In the botanical garden, you can see halophyte plants, a salt-tolerant plant with a reddish look that grows in soil of high salinity. Also present are the crabs and mudfish, famous for being the main ingredient of Chueotang (mudfish soup).

Cross the road after leaving the garden to watch the actual Salt Farms and take a picture using the salt farm as a mirror.

You can visit the Salt Museum in the old salt warehouse and watch the Superpower of Salt movie (in English) to learn more about the importance of salt. It is kinda long but as the rest of the museum is pretty much Korean only, this is the only information you will get.

Opposite the museum, you can buy salt souvenirs at the shop (big, bigger and huge sacks of salt) and try a Sea Salt Ice Cream with topping. Beware of the Mala topping: ginger, red pepper and garlic really don’t mix well with ice cream; I wish I had chosen fruit or matcha flavor instead. But give it a try if you feel adventurous.

In the afternoon you can visit the Film Set for the 1987: When the day Comes movie that was very popular in South Korea. You start at the bottom of the village that very much resembles villages like Busan’s Gamcheon Culture Village and Jeonju’s Jaman Mural Village. The shop that was used in the movie is right at the entrance. If you’re lucky, the shop is open and you can look inside and see the interior that was used in the movie. Take the stairs and wander around in the village, have a drink together with the locals in one of the cafes and enjoy the mural art.

Make one last stop on your way to your hotel at Gatbawi Rock, a natural sandstone and tafoni formation on the coast of Mokpo with a very interesting shape.

1987: When the Day Comes

In January 1987, a 22-year-old college student dies during a police interrogation. Under the orders of Director Park (Kim Yoon-seok), the police request the body to be cremated in order to destroy evidence. Public Prosecutor Choi (Ha Jung-woo), who was on duty on the day of the incident, denies the request and calls for an autopsy.

Interested? Check it out on Amazon.

Where to stay in Mokpo

I stayed at Charmant Hotel, because it was one of the hotels with the best reviews and a good price. Nearby the hotel you can find the Street of Roses with many restaurants and cafes.

Boryeong - day 19 - 20

Day 19 - Chaeseokgang Cliffs, Gogunsan Islands, Daecheon beach

The first stop today is Chaeseokgang Cliffs in Byeonsanbando National Park to see the stone cliffs and take a walk along the coast.

From there take the man-made seawall to the Gogunsan Islands, also dubbed by me: the Lofoten of South Korea. The seawall first takes you to Sinsido Island from where you can follow the bridges to Munyeodo Island, Seonyudo Island and Jangjado Island to admire the view of these rocky islands surrounded by sea. Seunyudo is also a good place to have lunch in one of the restaurants and to spend the afternoon as the scenery is beautiful.

After exploring the islands, drive on to your next hotel in Boryeong. For dinner, you can pick any of the restaurants near Daecheon beach and try your hands at grilling clams and other seafood (even the occasional pork belly) or try the still moving baby octopus sashimi. Fortunately for some tourists, many restaurants offer both fish and meat.

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Day 20 - Buyeo, Daedunsan National Park

This morning starts with a visit to Buyeo to visit the many historical sites in the area. A few of the must-see places are Busosanseong Fortress and Nakhwaam Cliffs overlooking the river and Gungnamji Pond. If you visit the Pond out of season then the area around the pond will look like a wasteland directly taken from a sci-fi movie (and perfect for Halloween). Most of the lotus flower plants were dead when I visited, but other types were just starting to bloom.

If you like exhibitions you can go to the Baekje National Museum.

Drive another hour east to Daedunsan National Park and take a cable car up the mountain; one of the best cable cars in South Korea! This park is really beatiful in autumn when the leaves start to turn red. The cable car helps you big time, but you still need to climb some stairs and rocks to reach the hanging bridge (Geumgang Gureumdari), stretching 50 meters between Imgeumbawi Rock to Ipseokdae Pedestal for a beautiful view of the area. Walk a bit further to get to the red stairs, perhaps the best-known visual representation of Daedunsan National Park and also a very impressive steep climb (but easy because you have handholds on both sides).

Where to stay in Boryeong

I stayed at Nova Motel near Daecheon beach and many restaurants. It was not a very interesting place to stay at (it had rooms with round beds which are very inconvenient for two people) but I don’t have anything bad to say about it either. The location is very convenient.

Suwon - day 21

Day 21 - Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, Seojangdae, Hwaseong Haenggung, Haenggung-dong Mural Village, Padalmun Gate, Pavilion

The city of Suwon is best known for Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. A good start would be to head to Janganmun Gate and follow the trail south along the wall admiring the reconstructed historical buildings until you get to Seojangdae Commanding Post.

Leave the fortress in the south and head east to Padalmun gate, one of the four big gates of Suwon Hwaseong. The area around the gate and Yeongdong Market is ideal for buying some snacks or lunch during a day full of history.

Follow Haenggung-ro to visit Hwaseong Haenggung, a temporary palace where the royal family retreated to during a war. In Haenggung-ro you can see many interesting shops and mural art. This is also the street the dressed-up royal guards with musical instruments take from the palace.

Your next stop is Haenggung-dong Mural Village. There are only a few streets, but the paintings on the walls are impressive. End your historical tour in Suwon with a look at Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion.

For diner, I recommend heading to Hyanggyo-ro near Suwon train and subway station. There are many fun restaurants here and this area really comes to life at night.

Where to stay in Suwon

I stayed at Malu Hotel, near a bus line to Padalmun Gate and other places I wanted to visit. The vibrant restaurant area Hyanggyo-ro lies within a few minutes walking distance of this hotel. A stay at this hotel is recommended if you like warm hotel rooms: when you take out your room key, the room automatically heats up to 27 degrees Celsius. I like warmth very much, but even for me this was too much.

Time to fly home. Unless you have the luxury to add some more days to explore Seoul after this. Check out the must-see places in Seoul in my Seoul 7 days itinerary.

I hope I left you with plenty of inspiration for your own trip to South Korea! Let me know how it was.

Practical Information

Time your South Korea visit well

This journey is possible year-round but works best in spring and fall to avoid hot summers (monsoon) and cold winters (driving in the snow).

Tip: keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays like Chuseok unless you specifically want to join the celebrations.

Transport and navigation

This itinerary uses a rental car to travel between cities.

Navigating in South-Korea is easy. You can use Naver maps (Android / iOS) to find optimal driving and walking routes. When using a car navigation system, search for destinations by entering their telephone number (easy to find with google maps).

Itinerary budget

The costs depend on your budget. If you choose to use mid-range hotels your journey will be more expensive than when you stay in hostels. Likewise, if you rent a car it matters if you are a solo traveler bearing the costs alone (but lower total costs because the car can be smaller) or travel with family or friends and can share the costs. You can eat in expensive restaurants every day or buy some cup ramyun in a convenience store. Eating out in South Korea is not expensive, but certain meals are, like when you want to eat prime quality abalone or sashimi.

The costs listed below are based on comfort, but not too luxurious. By choosing cheaper hotels or motels (still with a private room and personal bathroom) in cities and more expensive traditional houses in rural areas you can adjust the costs as you like and still keep the average accommodation costs per night affordable.

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul: costs depend on where you live
Hiring a car (22 days): around 1400 EUR (1545 USD) for a mid-range car (for 3-4 persons). The total price of the car will be around 1000 EUR if you travel alone or with a party of two because you can rent a smaller car.
Gasoline: around 320 EUR (357 USD) in total for over 3000 km.
Toll road fees: around 20 EUR (22 USD) in total
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with the fare for the occasional bus or subway trip: 10 EUR (11 USD) per person
Ferry to Bogildo: 60 EUR (67 USD) retour costs for three persons and a car

Food

Around 30 EUR daily per person for 22 days: 660 EUR (729 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 EUR daily per person for 22 days based on a mix of traditional houses and motels: 880 EUR (971 USD) per person

Wifi

45 EUR (49 USD) in total for 22 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi I can find for many Asian countries.

Various costs like entrance fees and cable cars

Around 50 EUR (56 USD) per person.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in October 2019. It cost me around 2200 EUR (2453 USD) per person for a party of three, including all the above, but excluding international flights and souvenirs.

If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels and food) the total cost will be much lower.

What to read when visiting South Korea

Find out about the best Korean books with an English translation.

The post The south and west of South Korea: a travel itinerary appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Highlights of South Korea by car in three weeks: a travel itinerary

Kim — Mon, 09 Sep 2019 16:32:31 +0000

Tour South Korea in three weeks by car and visit all the highlights with this travel itinerary. From Seoul, the capital of South Korea to Sokcho, Jeonju, Busan and Jeju. If you are looking for a well-balanced mix of big cities, culture and nature, then this travel itinerary is for you.

Travel itinerary overview

Seoul – day 1 – 3
Sokcho – day 4 – 6
Andong – day 7 – 8
Jeonju – day 9 – 11
Gwangyang – day 12 – 15 (you can also stay in Suncheon or Boseong)
Busan – day 16 – 18
Jeju – day 19 – 21
Practical information

Use this itinerary if you want a comfortable trip. It’s not a quick see-it-all, but a well-balanced itinerary using one city as a base for exploring the area.

Have you seen all the above already? Then check out my lesser-known south and west of South Korea itinerary for second or third time visitors.

Click here to see the map for this three weeks South Korea itinerary in Google maps.

Seoul day 1 - 3

Day 1 - Myeongdong and Seoul Tower

Your first day in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Be prepared to visit the diverse neighborhoods: go shopping, try out the food, admiring the architecture.

After arriving, buy a public transport card and load it with 60.000 Won and head towards the bus station to catch a bus 6701 to City Hall. For first time visitors, the area around City Hall is the perfect starting point to go sightseeing in Seoul: two well-connected subway lines nearby and the Seoul train station within walking distance. At night you can walk to the vibrant area of Myeongdong for entertainment.

If you arrive early, visit Lotte Department store and browse the stores and supermarket.

Spend the afternoon wandering about Myeongdong, a popular shopping destination for cosmetics and clothes. This area is busy all day but comes to life at night.

When it gets dark take the cable car up to Namsan Tower for a nice view over the city. Afterward, head back to the street food stalls in Myeongdong to eat your first tteokbokki of your trip. The start of the cable car is within walking distance from Myeongdong. While walking you can see the lights playing with Shinsegae and Lotte Department Store. The Bank of Korea (opposite of Shinsegae) is also an interesting building to see; its ‘western’ architecture not quite matching the modern buildings surrounding it.

Day 2 - Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream

Tip for eating Korean food in South Korea

Many restaurants don’t open before 11 am. At least not the ones you can find information about online. But there are many small family-owned establishments that open early and you can see many locals wandering in.

Check my Search for breakfast in South Korea post for more tips.

On the road between City Hall and Gyeongbokgung Palace you can see the statue of King Sejong, the inventor of South Korean’s Hangul script. Follow the boulevard to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Admire the view of the old palace and take a walk on the palace grounds. Keep walking until you find yourself straight ahead until you reach the far end of the palace grounds. You will find yourself alone with ample photo opportunities. If you go to the North exit you can see the Blue House.

Turn back into the park and take the east exit towards Bukchon Hanok village. Wander around the small streets and visit a tea house for a traditional tea with snacks to show off your tea-making skills.

From there head towards Insadong; it’s all within walking distance. Visit the craft stores and Ssamziegil mall. If you’re up for some more tea you can go to Osulloc: a modern tea house.

For dinner tonight head towards the area in between Insadong and Chyeonggyecheon stream. This area looks best at night when all the billboards are lighting up the area. Try your hand at grilling your own meat.

Take a stroll along Chyeonggyecheon stream and turn right near Ganghwamun subway station to visit Kyobo Gwanghwamun Bookstore (open until 10 pm). Find out more about the most popular Korean books.

Day 3 - Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam

Take the subway to Noryangjin fish market for breakfast. Buy the fish you want to eat for breakfast and head to one of the restaurants with your bought fish to have it prepared for you.

Head to Samsung D’light and do the interactive tour to admire Samsung’s innovations. From there go to Apgujeong-ro in Gangnam for a walk along K-Star road and many luxury stores. From here walk to Garosu-gil (the ‘tree-lined street’) for a drink at Eighty seconds or if you want something less touristy, head to the area around Bongeunsa-ro 2 gil in Yeoksam-dong; my favorite restaurant and cafe area in Gangnam.

Where to stay in Seoul

Seoul has many hotels. You can stay in any of the neighborhoods and explore the city from there. When depending on public transport I always look for hotels situated near important subway stations or bus hubs so I can explore the whole city with ease.

For first time visitors, I recommend staying near City Hall, as it has two important subway lines nearby and Seoul Train Station is within walking distance. At night you can explore the vibrant area of Myeongdong for entertainment.

My recommendation is Travelodge Myeongdong City Hall: a very good location near City Hall, not expensive and clean and big enough rooms. There is a spa in the hotel, but it is for men only. I stayed in this hotel for one week over Christmas and I would stay here again if I was looking for a hotel near City Hall.

For my second visit, I stayed in Gangnam to experience another neighborhood. I chose to stay in Gangnam this time because it is in the southeastern part of the city and I wanted to drive east after picking up my rental car. Plus I was looking for a hotel within walking distance from one of the car rental offices for easy pick-up.

If you want to stay in Gangnam I recommend Best Western Premier Hotel Gangnam. It is at a walking distance from two useful subway lines connecting you to the northern part of the city: Sinnonhyeon subway station (also a very useful bus hub) and Gangnam subway station, which makes it a very good starting location for exploring the city. The hotel service is good, the rooms are big enough and affordable.

What to read when visiting Seoul

See my Best Korean books to read before your visit to South Korea post to find out about the most popular Korean books.

More things to do in Seoul?

In my 11 Ways to Spend Your Day in Seoul you can find many more things to do in and around Seoul.
5 Best Cafes with a Mountain View in Seoul
Visit Daelim Museum in Seoul
Christmas and Christmas concerts in Seoul
Visit the Korean DMZ

Sokcho - day 4 - 6

Day 4 - Seoul to Sokcho - Garden of Morning Calm and Nami Island

Pick up your rental car in the morning. Visit the Garden of Morning Calm and see the blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snowy landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as a day trip from Seoul as the whole garden will be lighted and look like a winter wonderland.

From there, head to the ferry starting point for Nami Island and take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata.

If you have time left go to Chuncheon to try Chuncheon Dakgalbi or visit Gubongsan Mountain Observatory. If not head straight to Sokcho from here.

Day 5 - Sokcho Tourist Market, Abai Village, Naksansa Temple

Head to Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market for breakfast. Score some fresh sashimi or try numerous other snacks or meals in one of the stalls. If you’re wondering why half of the people you see are carrying flat boxes (sometimes six of them), head over to Mansuk Dak Gangjeong chicken stall and try their fried chicken (recommended!).

Take a short drive to Abai Village; a small village of North Korean expats. You can take the boat, but also drive over the bridge and park on the island itself. The village is small, but there is a lovely beach at the end with a nice view over Sokcho with the mountains in the backdrop. While you’re there try Abai Sundae, blood sausage with squid casing and filling

Follow the coast further south to visit Naksansa temple grounds, featuring many small buildings and temples, statues and a giant Stone Buddha.

Day 6 - Seoraksan National Park

Sokcho is famous as one of the gateways for exploring Seoraksan National Park. (And among a niche group: the first city in South Korea where you could play Pokemon Go).

Go for a hike to Ulsanbawi peak, Biryong Waterfall, Geumganggul Cave, Biseondae or one of the other routes. It is also possible to take a cable car to Gwongeumseong Fortress and take the stairs (10 minutes) to the top and admire the breathtaking view.

Where to stay in Sokcho

I recommend Seorak Pension. This pension is located in a quiet area between Sokcho and Seoraksan National Park. The Japanese rooms are quite big and clean and the owners are very friendly. When I was staying there they brought over Korean tea and iced tea when they saw me reading a book in the BBQ and picnic area next to the hotel. If you travel by car, you can park it right next to the pension. If you’re using public transport you’re probably better off nearer to the city center of Sokcho.

What to read in Sokcho

From Sokcho you can reach the Goseong Unification Observatory near the border with North Korea within an hour and Abai Village also has a link with North Korean expats. So my reading recommendation for this part of the trip is:

Masaji Ishikawa - A River of Darkness: One Man’s Escape from North Korea

About the treatment of someone stuck between two worlds. It makes you want to fix the world, but just like the main character, you probably won’t be able to do anything about it.

Interested? You can get your copy from Amazon.

Where to eat in Sokcho

The restaurant next to Seorak Pension: 고향민속마을 serves a good Sundubu (soft tofu soup) and also has good reviews in KakaoMap. I can also recommend their bibimbap with mountain vegetables.

Sashimi, fried chicken or snacks at Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market.

Try Abai Sundae (blood sausage with squid casing and filling) in Abai Village.

>> Read more about Sokcho in my Sokcho Special

Andong - Day 7 - 8

Day 7 - Sokcho to Andong - Gangneung and Taebaek

Head to Gangneung to visit the Olympic Stadium used for the 2018 Winter Olympics. Afterward, take a stroll in Gyeongpo Provincial Park; a small wetland reserve with interesting sculptures. If you’re lucky the lotus pond is filled with lotus flowers again; in May 2018 it was one big mud pool.

From there on take the mountain road enjoying the scenery and stop in Taebaek for lunch. After lunch continue onwards to Andong.

Where to eat in Taebaek

There are many Korean BBQ restaurants in the area. I ate at 태성실비식당 and enjoyed it very much. The side dishes were good too.

Day 8 - Dosanseowon Confucian Academy, Hahoe Folk Village

Today will be all about culture and history. In the morning drive north to Dosanseowon Confucian Academy, the intellectual home of Korean Confucianism established in 1574. Not only are the buildings quite a sight to see, but the surrounding area is also beautiful. It is easy to imagine studying in peace at such a location.

Head over to the west of Andong to visit Hahoe Folk Village, a well kept open-air museum and have lunch at a traditional restaurant. Explore the traditional houses in the village and try some of the Soju brewed there. Other food tips: Heotjesabap (a type of Bibimbap eaten by the nobles), Andong Gangodeungeo (salted mackerel), and Andong Guksu (a kind of noodle dish).

Where to stay in Andong

For Andong, I just had to choose a traditional house for a hotel. I stayed in Nongamjongtaek, a building complex (originally a noble’s house) that has been passed on for generations from eldest son to eldest son. There are smaller rooms connected to the main house, but you can also end up with your own private building with a porch as I did. It’s situated at a beautiful historical location with a stream surrounded by mountains. The hosts were very friendly and caring. Traditional Korean breakfast is included (very good with many side dishes) and the lady of the house brought over home-made snacks in the evening. This is not a cheap hotel to stay at but for me, the experience was totally worth it (and you can compensate it with cheaper hotels/motels in other cities).

What to read in Andong

This book isn’t set in the Andong area (more in Seoul and China), but the main character partly grew up in the Andong area and uses Andong soju for commemoration service.

Yi Mun-Yol - Meeting with my brother

Narrated by a middle-aged South Korean professor, also named Yi, whose father abandoned his family and defected to the North at the outbreak of the Korean War. Many years later, despite having spent most of his life under a cloud of suspicion as the son of a traitor, Yi is prepared to reunite with his father. Yet before a rendezvous on the Chinese border can be arranged, his father dies. Yi then learns for the first time that he has a half-brother, whom he chooses to meet instead. As the two confront their shared legacy, their encounter takes a surprising turn.

Meeting with My Brother represents the political and psychological complexity of Koreans on both sides of the border, offering a complex yet poignant perspective on the divisions between the two countries. Through a series of charged conversations, Yi explores the nuances of reunification, both political and personal. This semi autobiographical account draws on Yi’s own experience of growing up with an absent father who defected to the North and the stigma of family disloyalty.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Jeonju - day 9 - 11

Day 9 - Andong to Jeonju - Andong pagoda and hot spring footbath in Daejeon

On the right side of Andong, you can find a sole surviving stone pagoda next to train tracks. Even though the pagoda on its own is not very impressive, with the traditional building behind it it’s quite photogenic. The main attraction here is to observe how modern buildings and facilities were built around it in not a very pretty way.

Take the highway and head over to Daejeon. If you have time you can park around Jungangno to go shopping. Otherwise, go straight to the Yuseong Spa area for a relaxing and free open-air footbath with hot spring water before you go on to Jeonju.

Day 10 - Jiff Film street, Jeonju Hanok Village

Go shopping in the area around Jeonjugaeksa 5-gil and head south towards Pungnammun Gate.

From there go east and you walk right into Jeonju Hanok Village. Admire the art, the crafts and the buildings. Take pictures with other visitors in Hanbok, Korean traditional clothing or try one on yourself. Rest and drink tea in one of the traditional houses.

Jeonju is famous for its food culture: especially Jeonju Bibimbap (with raw beef tartare) and tteokgalbi (grilled beef patties). At night the area with streetfood stalls really comes to life, so if you’re feeling adventurous (don’t worry, it’s safe) try some grilled cheese, octopus or chicken skewers, Moju, strawberry rice cake or drink infusions.

Day 11 - Deokjinho lake, Jaman Mural Village, Gyeonggijeon Shrine

Visit Deokjinho lake and park in the morning and take a stroll around Myeonnyun 4-gil, a street that is very much alive with university students.

Afterward, head to Jaman Mural Village to watch the beautiful murals and take pictures of the view over Jeonju Hanok Village. Try some Bingsu (shaved ice cream) while enjoying the view. For dinner, you can easily walk over to Hanok Village.

Where to stay in Jeonju

There are many good places to stay in Jeonju. I chose White Tourist Hotel because the rooms were spacious, it had a hotel parking lot and it was situated in a quiet area. You can also stay in Jeonju Hanok Village, but as I had just spent two days in a traditional house in Andong, I preferred a bed over the floor. From this hotel, you can walk to Deokjinho lake (via Myeonnyun 4-gil) and back and take the car or bus to Jeonju Hanok village and Jaman Mural Village. I also found a really nice café and a good Jeonju Bibimbap restaurant near the hotel.

What to eat and drink in Jeonju

Jeonju Bibimbap: in Jeonju they top the bibimbap with raw beef tartare (you can also choose one with another topping). I went to Hangukkwan for mine and can recommend this restaurant (near White Tourist Hotel).

Jeonju beef patties: all over Jeonju Hanok Village you’ll see restaurants offering beef burgers of seasoned meat, often served with pineapple and grilled cheese.

Snowing cafe (스노잉카페 본점): I really enjoyed this cafe. The drinks look pretty and the cafe interior looks nice. Visit this cafe to try some ice topped tea or coffee.

Jeonju street food: try grilled cheese, chicken or octopus on a stick, strawberry rice cake and many more snacks.

Gwangyang - day 12 - 15 (you can also stay in Suncheon or Boseong)

Day 12 - Jeonju to Gwangyang - Damyang Bamboo Forest and Gwangju Student Uprising monument

From Jeonju drive over to Damyang to visit Juknokwon bamboo forest to take a walk with the bamboo shoots towering over you. The forest can be quite crowded near the entrance, but as you follow the path it becomes quieter. There is also a garden within the complex where you can relax.

Your next stop is the Gwangju monument of the Student Uprising of May 18, 1980, when many students took up arms to protest against the martial law government. The sculptures are in the middle of a small park and show the desperation the people involved must have felt very well. If you’re interested to know more about what happened during the uprising, please check out the book and movie recommendation below.

You can then head over to your hotel in the Gwangyang, Suncheon and Boseong area.

What to read and watch before Gwangju

Han Kang’s Human Acts gives a close account of the killing that took place during the Student Uprising. It’s written from a student’s point of view and simply a must-read when you plan to visit Gwangju.

I don’t usually recommend movies, but for Gwangju, I’d recommend A Taxi Driver.

Han Kang - Human Acts

In the midst of a violent student uprising in South Korea, a young boy named Dong-ho is shockingly killed.

The story of this tragic episode unfolds in a sequence of interconnected chapters as the victims and the bereaved encounter suppression, denial, and the echoing agony of the massacre. From Dong-ho’s best friend who meets his own fateful end; to an editor struggling against censorship; to a prisoner and a factory worker, each suffering from traumatic memories; and to Dong-ho’s own grief-stricken mother; and through their collective heartbreak and acts of hope is the tale of a brutalized people in search of a voice.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

A Taxi Driver

A Taxi Driver is a very good movie, based on a true story, about a taxi driver from Seoul who does what he can to help a foreign photographer documenting what happened to the people involved in the uprising.

Interested? Watch it on Amazon Prime.

Day 13 - Boseong tea fields, Suncheon Drama Film set

Drive over to Boseong tea fields in the morning. If you’re visiting in May, see if you can plan your visit around the annual tea festival. You can walk around the tea fields and even go up for a very nice view of the surrounding area. Don’t forget to sample and buy some tea at the tea museum/store.

If today happens to be the weekday the big Suncheon outdoor market is open (every five days), head over to the market for some snacks. If not, go straight to the Suncheon Drama Film set to walk around reconstructed ‘50’s and ‘70’s streets. You can completely immerse yourself in the film set, but this is also a good opportunity to get both the old way of living and the new way (tall buildings) in one picture.

Day 14 - Yeosu and Dolsando

Go east of Gwangyang and take the long Yi Sun-sin suspension bridge to get a good view of the industrial harbor. The top part of Yeosu is filled with industry. But as you continue southwards you leave the industrial complex behind.

Stop in Yeosu city to have a drink or lunch in a cafe. There are some really nice areas giving you a good view of the harbor and the rooftops.

After a short break, go for a drive around Dolsando to admire the bays, the fishing villages and the land.

Read more: A day trip to Goheung peninsula

Where to eat and drink in Yeosu

In Yeosu you can find many cafes where you can have a drink and relax while taking in the beautiful view of the city. I went to the Rooftop Cafe (낭만카페) and can recommend it for anyone looking for a stop before you continue your road trip around Yeosu and Dolsando.

Various crab dishes like marinated raw blue crab at Naraebabsang.

Day 15 - Gubongsan Observatory and Suncheon Bay National Garden and Wetland Reserve

Drive to Gubongsan Observatory for a nice view over the industrial harbor and the northern part of Yeosu. You can drive all the way to the top, leaving only a few stairs to be climbed or park your car lower at a bigger parking lot to hike the last part.

On your way down make a quick stop at the stone tower and temple on your left side.

From there on drive to the Suncheon Bay National Garden. You can choose to park at the West or East gate, either is fine. The park itself is huge, featuring world gardens. You can walk for hours and still not see it all. It’s also a perfect place to bring a book and just read and relax in one of the many chairs, grass fields and so on. Every part offers a different seat.

Combine a visit to this garden with a visit to the Suncheon Wetland Reserve. I didn’t because I’d already visited wetlands in Gangneung (and my home country is pretty much all wetland), but if you don’t see wetlands every day this is definitely worth a visit. I might go there next time.

Where to stay in Gwangyang

I chose Hotel NOL (previously Hotel JAVA) in Gwangyang because I liked the idea of staying in a place that is less known among tourists and everything else (hotel availability and cost, location) matched what I was looking for. Next trip to that area I will be staying in a traditional house near Boseong. In Gwangyang there are many budget hotels to choose from (to compensate the earlier traditional house stay).

Where to eat in Gwangyang

I ate at three different restaurants in Gwangyang and liked them all very much.

If you’re craving Chicken Ginseng, try Daebok Samgyetang,

For beef bone soup (gomtang) go to 나주곰탕.

For Jjajangmyeon go to 햇찬 (it has a low score from two reviews, but this was the best jjajangmyeon I ate in my visits to South Korea plus they were opened at Whitsun, saving us from convenience store dinner).

Busan - day 16 - 18

Day 16 - Gwangyang to Busan - Tongyeong

Visit Tongyeong and take Hallyeosudo Viewing Ropeway (one of the best in South Korea!) to the top to admire the view of the sea and many small islands. If the sky is clear you can see all the way to Japan. With a small hike (around half an hour) you can reach the summit of Mireuksan and get an even better view. Have lunch at the market in Tongyeong and take a stroll along Gangguan Port to see a full-size replica of a 16th-century wooden warship. Buy some Fresh Honey Baked Bread for a snack or souvenir.

When driving on to Busan from there admire the scenery and the many small islands.

After checking into your hotel in Busan go for dinner at Nampodong shopping street and Biff Square. Eat some Ssiat-heottok (Korean fried pancake stuffed with seeds) as dessert. Depending on the time of your arrival you can also visit Gukje market.

What to eat in Tongyeong

Seafood bibimbap at a restaurant in the harbor of Tongyeong

Buy some Fresh Honey Baked Bread to take with you.

Day 17 - Gyeongju

Gyeongju is often referred to as ‘the museum without walls’, due to the many archaeological sites in the area.

Start with a visit to Gyeongju’s Gyochon Traditional Village to observe some traditional houses. If you visit out of season (and in my case on a Tuesday) many restaurants and attractions will be closed but you can still wander through the streets and watch the hanok houses. Parking tip: park at the parking lot to the left of the village for free parking. You have to pay for parking spaces outside of the lot.

Next to the village, you can find Woljeonggyo Bridge, originally leading to Wolseong palace, a royal palace of the Silla dynasty.

Northwest of Cheomseongdae Observatory, you can visit Daereungwon Tomb Complex to see the Tomb of King-Michu and Cheonmachong. Also interesting here hare the curved trees and fruit trees in the park.

If you have more time you can drive half an hour east to visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.

Alternative option: stay in Busan and visit Busan Citizens Park or Peace Park and go shopping in one of the many malls and shopping areas. This is what I did last year, but on my next trip, I will be visiting Gyeongju and add more tips and information to this itinerary.

Day 18 - Gamcheon cultural village, Haeundae Beach

Visit Gamcheon cultural village in the morning. You can park your car in one of the parking garages nearby. There are some trails you can follow, but it is just as easy to just wander and still see it all. This colorful village is very photogenic so don’t forget to take many pictures.

After your visit to the village, you can either drive over to Haeundae Beach or leave the car at your hotel to take the subway to Haeundae Beach. It all depends on what you want to drink with your meal (and there can be quite a traffic jam in the late afternoon, so the subway is probably more convenient). The area around Haeundae beach has many Western restaurants, but do try the Eel street if you are still craving Korean food after eighteen days.

Where to stay in Busan

I very much enjoyed my stay at Hotel Elysee: the rooms were spacious and the staff was nice. The hotel is located near Nampodong, the train station and a subway station; a very convenient base for exploring the whole city. You can park your car in their garage.

Where to eat in Busan

Fried chicken at Nampo shopping street, with Ssiat-heottok as dessert.

One of the many restaurants serving seafood in the small alley near Haeundae beach.

What to read and watch in Busan

The beginning of Min Jin Lee’s Pachinko is set in Busan and an island below Busan. By reading this book you can get some insight into Busan during the Japanese occupation.

Blood sisters by Kim Yideum takes place in Busan and is one of the clearest recommendations I can give for this city. I really liked the writing style and the references to art, culture and philosophy. I enjoyed this book very much, but it might not be for everyone because of the subjects and thoughts in it.

If you like zombie movies, then definitely see Train to Busan. The main characters are trying to reach Busan to be safe from zombies.

Kim Yideum - Blood Sisters

Blood Sisters tells the story of Jeong Yeoul, a young Korean college student in the 1980’s, when the memory of President Chun Doohwan’s violent suppression of student demonstrations against martial law was still fresh. Yideum captures with raw honesty the sense of dread felt by many Korean women during this time as Jeong struggles in a swirl of misguided desires and hopelessness against a society distorted by competing ideologies, sexual violence, and cultural conservatism. Facing this helplessness, her impulse is to escape into the world of art. Blood Sisters is a vivid, powerful portrayal of a woman’s efforts to live an authentic life in the face of injustice.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Min Jin Lee - Pachinko

In the early 1900s, teenaged Sunja, the adored daughter of a crippled fisherman, falls for a wealthy stranger at the seashore near her home in Korea. He promises her the world, but when she discovers she is pregnant–and that her lover is married–she refuses to be bought. Instead, she accepts an offer of marriage from a gentle, sickly minister passing through on his way to Japan. But her decision to abandon her home, and to reject her son’s powerful father, sets off a dramatic saga that will echo down through the generations.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Train to Busan

Train to Busan is a harrowing zombie horror-thriller that follows a group of terrified passengers fighting their way through a countrywide viral outbreak, trapped on a suspicion-filled, blood-drenched bullet train ride to the Safe Zone…which may or may not still be there.

Interested? Watch it on Amazon Prime.

Jeju - day 19-21

Day 19 - Busan to Jeju - O'sulloc Tea Museum

There are many flights from Busan to Jeju daily, so you can either choose to spend most of the day in Busan or head to Jeju early.

Drop the car off at Busan airport and enjoy the short flight. At Jeju airport, you can pick up your new car and drive over to O’sulloc Tea Museum (open until 7 pm) on the west side of Jeju. If you’re staying in Seogwipo or the western part of the island, this is a very good stop to make on the way to your hotel. However, if you booked a hotel in Jeju city, then explore the city instead and visit the Tea Museum some other time.

Day 20 - Hallasan

Hallasan is the highest mountain in South Korea and quite a challenge to hike. Imagine taking (uneven) stairs for more than three hours straight and then doing the same to go down. But if you make it to the top you are up for a nice view of the island. Plus it’s something you just have to do, right? Beat Hallasan. Try to do this on a clear day, if today is cloudy, do the activities for day 21 instead. If all days are cloudy then climbing Hallasan is still worth it because the area is beautiful enough on its own, even if you can’t see the whole island from the top.

Alternatively: go east and take a walk in Bijarim nutmeg Forest. From there on visit the Manjanggul Cave.

Day 21 - Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, Oedalgae rock, Jusangjeolli Cliff

In the morning head to Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak in the east, also known as Sunrise Peak. Don’t worry about the sunrise part, it’s also beautiful later in the day. Make sure to also visit the female divers after your hike and if you can watch one of the demonstrations.

From there head west past Seogwipo to visit Oedalgae rock and take a walk along the coast.

Next up is Jusangjeolli Cliff, my favorite site on Jeju. The stone pillars of the coast are hexagonal shape and beautiful to see.

Fly home at the end of this day or the next day, depending on what’s most practical for you.

Where to stay in Jeju

You can stay anywhere on the island: everything is within driving distance. I chose Seogwipo because I found a hotel (Artstay Seogwipo Harbor) matching what I was looking for. It felt a bit cheap to me though as the breakfast was mediocre, the two elevators responded to the same button request causing long waiting times and it was really noisy (because of buses full of school kids). So I think you’ll enjoy your stay better at another hotel in Jeju.

What to read in Jeju

The Island of Sea Women by Lisa See is a must-read if you’re planning to visit Sunrise Peak and see the women divers of Jeju. It helps you understand more about their skills but also about their strength in providing for their families under dire circumstances. Set in Jeju during the Japanese occupation it shows you Jeju from the past, including its traditions and ways in which it is different from the mainland of South Korea. It is also very well written and easy to read.

Lisa See - The Island of Sea Women

The Island of Sea Women follows Mi-ja and Young-sook, two girls from very different backgrounds, as they begin working in the sea with their village’s all-female diving collective. Over many decades—through the Japanese colonialism of the 1930s and 1940s, World War II, the Korean War, and the era of cellphones and wet suits for the women divers—Mi-ja and Young-sook develop the closest of bonds. Nevertheless, their differences are impossible to ignore: Mi-ja is the daughter of a Japanese collaborator, forever marking her, and Young-sook was born into a long line of haenyeo and will inherit her mother’s position leading the divers. After hundreds of dives and years of friendship, forces outside their control will push their relationship to the breaking point.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost is an interesting tale set in Jeju (and Hokkaido, Japan for a few pages) showing the imprint the Japanese left on Korean memory. The story isn’t linear, making it hard to follow at times, and the language is perhaps a bit dated, but if you’re interested in the history of that period (1948) it gives some great insight into the thoughts of the people.

Kim Sok-Pom - The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost

“The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost” incorporates Korean folk tales, ghost stories, and myth into a phenomenal depiction of epic tragedy. Written by a “zainichi,” a permanent resident of Japan who is not of Japanese ancestry, the novel tells the story of Mandogi, a young priest living on the island of Jeju-do. Mandogi becomes unwittingly involved in the Four-Three Incident of 1948, in which the South Korean government brutally suppressed an armed peasant uprising and purged Jeju-do of communist sympathizers. Although Mandogi is sentenced to death for his part in the riot, he survives (in a sense) to take revenge on his enemies and fully commit himself to the resistance.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Practical information

Time your Korea visit well

This journey is possible year-round but works best in spring and fall to avoid hot summers and cold winters (driving in the snow).

Tip: if possible, plan your arrival day on a Wednesday or Thursday for an optimal journey. This will help you avoid Jeju on the weekend when the island gets really crowded especially in the busy season. Also, keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays unless you specifically want to join the celebrations.

Transport and navigation

This itinerary uses a rental car to travel between cities and public transport within cities like Seoul and Busan. It is possible to do everything by public transport and cab if you skip some of the visit-while-traveling sights that are too time-consuming to get to without a car.

You can use either Naver or Google maps to calculate optimal public transport routes.

Estimated costs

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul and from Jeju to your hometown: costs depend on where you live
Flight from Busan to Jeju: from 50 euro (55 USD) per person
Hiring a car for the mainland (16 days), picking it up on Day 4 in Seoul and dropping it off on Day 19 in Busan: around 1200 euro (1318 USD) for a mid-range car (for 3-4 persons), including a one-way fee. This will be cheaper if you travel alone because you can rent a smaller car.
Hiring a car on Jeju (4 days), mid-range car for 3-4 person: 120 euro (132 USD) in total. This will be cheaper if you travel alone because you can rent a smaller car.
Gasoline: around 150 euro (165 USD) in total
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with fare: 20 euro (22 USD) per person

Food

Around 30 euro daily per person for 21 days: 630 euro (692 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 euro daily per person for 21 days based on mid-range hotels: 820 euro (900 USD) per person

Wifi

43 euro (47 USD) in total for 21 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi in can find for many Asian countries.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in May 2018. It cost me around 1920 euro (2109 USD) in total, excluding intercontinental flights. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels, food, flights and a smaller car) the total cost will be much lower.

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11 Ways to Spend Your Day in Seoul

Kim — Sat, 31 Aug 2019 07:48:18 +0000

Visit Seoul, the capital of South Korea and explore its many neighborhoods. This Seoul 7 days itinerary will show you where to go in Seoul.

After the Seoul 7 Days Itinerary you can find some additional ways to spend your days in Seoul: perfect for second or third-time visitors or for those looking to explore the lesser-known and less touristy parts of Seoul: have you been to Gangdong, Pyeongchang, Buam, Eunpyeong and Tongui?

Seoul 7 days itinerary

Below is a day to day example itinerary to see all the highlights of Seoul in one week.

Day 1 – Myeongdong and Seoul Tower
Day 2 – Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream
Day 3 – Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam
Day 4 – Day trip to Garden of Morning Calm, Nami Island and Chuncheon
Day 5 – Dongdaemun
Day 6 – Day trip to Suwon Hwaseong Fortress
Day 7 – Hongdae and Itaewon

Bonus days:

Gangdong and Hanam’s Gusanseongji
Pyeongchang and Buam
Eunpyeong and Goyang
Seochon Hanok Village, Seosomun Shrine History Museum, Seoul Station area

Practical information: budget and where to stay

Check out my Seoul 7 Days Itinerary map in Google maps.

Day 1 - Myeongdong and Seoul Tower

Your first day in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Be prepared to visit the diverse neighborhoods: go shopping, try out the food, admiring the architecture.

If you arrive early, visit Lotte Department store and browse the stores and supermarket.

Spend the afternoon wandering about Myeongdong, a popular shopping destination for cosmetics and clothes. This area is busy all day but comes to life at night.

When it gets dark take the cable car up to Namsan Tower for a nice view over the city. Afterwards, head back to the street food stalls in Myeongdong to eat your first tteokbokki of your trip. The start of the cable car is within walking distance from Myeongdong. While walking you can see the lights playing with Shinsegae and Lotte Department Store. The Bank of Korea (opposite of Shinsegae) is also an interesting building to see; its ‘western’ architecture not quite matching the modern buildings surrounding it.

Day 2 - Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream

Tip for eating Korean food in South Korea

Many restaurants don’t open before 11 am. At least not the ones you can find information about online. But there are many small-family owned establishments that open early and you can see many locals wandering in.

Check my Search for breakfast in South Korea post for more tips.

On the road between City Hall and Gyeongbokgung palace you can see the statue of King Sejong, the inventor of South Korean’s Hangul script. Follow the boulevard to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Admire the view of the old palace and take a walk on the palace grounds. Keep walking until you find yourself straight ahead until you reach the far end of the palace grounds. You will find yourself alone with ample photo opportunities. If you go to the North exit you can see the Blue House.

Take a stroll along Chyeonggyecheon stream and turn right near Ganghwamun subway station to visit Kyobo Gwanghwamun Bookstore (open until 10 pm). Look here for a list of popular Korean books.

Day 3 - Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam

Take the subway to Noryangjin fish market for breakfast. Buy the fish you want to eat for breakfast and head to one of the restaurants with your bought fish to have it prepared for you.

Day 4 - Day trip to Garden of Morning Calm, Nami Island and Chuncheon

Visit the Garden of Morning Calm and see the blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snow landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as a day trip from Seoul as the whole garden will be lighted and look like winter wonderland.

From there on head to the ferry starting point for Nami Island and take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata.

If you have time left go Petite France or Chuncheon to try Chuncheon Dakgalbi. If not head back to Seoul here.

Instead of going on your own, you can also book a day trip via GetYourGuide and have your visit to Nami Island, Garden of Morning Calm and Petite France arranged for you.

Day 5 - Dongdaemun

Eat breakfast at Gwangjang market. Try their mung bean pancakes, chicken legs and other food that catches your eye.

Head to Dongdaemun Gate and walk along the eastern wall and enjoy a nice view of the city.

Explore the malls in Dongdaemun. Especially Doota shopping mall is also worth a visit to try on affordable clothes from starting fashion designers.

The shopping malls are right next to Dongdaemun Design Plaza. From the higher floors of Migliore mall, you have a nice view of the plaza. It is very interesting to watch this beautiful building both during the day and the night when the flower fields come to live. Also, make sure to explore the inside of the Design Plaza as well; depending on when you visit there might be an interesting exhibition inside.

Day 6 - Day trip to Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

Leave the fortress in the south and head east to Padalmun gate, one of the four big gates of Suwon Hwaseong. The area around the gate and Yeongdong Market is ideal to buy some snacks or lunch during a day full of history.

Your next stop is Haenggung-dong Mural Village. There are only a few streets, but the painting on the walls is really impressive. End your historical tour in Suwon with a look at Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion.

If you have time for diner, I recommend heading to Hyanggyo-ro near Suwon train and subway station. There are many fun places to eat here and this area really comes to life at night.

Day 7 - Hongdae and Itaewon

Visit the campuses of Ewha University and Yonsei University. The architecture is quite a sight.

Have lunch near Sinchon subway station and do some shopping. If you happen to be there around Christmas, this area will have turned into a Christmas market with live music.

Take the subway to Itaewon in the evening to explore this expat neighborhood with many foreign restaurants (and foreigners). Or if you took a liking to Hongdae, just stay there (I didn’t think Itaewon was all that interesting and I prefer other neighborhoods in Seoul over it) and hang out it the shopping and restaurant area around Hongdae Fashion Street.

Extra days or alternative options

The above itinerary is perfect for first-time visitors to Seoul. But for those visiting for the second time or those wanting a less touristy experience read on for alternative days based on my second and third visit to Seoul.

Gangdong and Hanam’s Gusanseongji

On the southeastern side of Seoul, just east of the Gangnam and Songpa lie the Gangdong neighborhood and the city Hanam. If you go there, you probably won’t see any other tourists. Interesting, right?

Start your day in Hanam with a visit to Gusanseongji, the holy shrine where Saint Sungwoo (Antonio) and eight martyrs were buried. It is a Christian religious site, but with a Korean touch to it: you can see it in the choice of sculptures and the use of the land. If you come by car, you can park in the parking lot right next to the site. Also interesting is the contrast the residences in the streets surrounding the shrine, that is: three-story houses very much like those in my country, form with the high white flat neighborhoods everyone who has ever visited South Korea is familiar with.

From Gusanseongji, drive or take a bus to the area surrounding Cheonho subway station in Gangdong. If you come by car, it is probably best to park in the Hyundai department store, as parking lots on the streets are numbered. Gangdong sightseeing starts at the mountain fortress Pungnaptoseong, which basically looks like a grass hill with a walking path in the middle of the city. In the streets surrounding it (around Baramdeuri-gil) you can find a market.

If it is about time for lunch, head to the Food Alley at Cheonhodae-ro for something to eat.

Walk east towards the Gampul Manga Theme Street. In the area, you can find mural art, but in a very small-town “we’re just living here”-way. So it is not the most beautiful mural art area but it is one of the most realistic areas you will see. The same goes for the rest of Gangdong.

Next up is Cheonhodong Rodeo Street; a shopping and restaurant street that is very much alive during the day and even better at night. It’s not a large shopping street, but it fits the neighborhood.

If you have some time left you can go shopping in the Hyundai Department Store or head straight to the Olympic Park in Songpa-dong for some relaxing and see the World Peace Gate and Mongchontoseong Fortress (or G-Dragon and Nike’s basketball court).

Pyeongchang and Buam

Pyeongchang-dong is the neighborhood that reminded me the most of drama sets of K-Drama’s: it’s the neighborhood where all the well-off drama families live. Big villa’s with gates hiding what’s going on behind. A walk through the neighborhood (uphill of course) offers a peek into a different side of Seoul. In the streets, you come across many museums and higher up you find Cafe Piano, built against Bukhansan National Park. This cafe has a beautiful rock garden and offers a nice view of the mountain and the city of Seoul. You can read more about this cafe in my post about the best cafes in Seoul with a mountain view.

From Pyeongchang, head to Changuimun Gate in Buam-dong to start exploring Buam. In the neighborhood, you can find many cafes, temples, historical sites and museums like Whanki Museum and Seoul Museum. Based on what you like to do, you can create your own afternoon program. Perhaps the most well-known cafe in the neighborhood is Sanmotoonge Cafe which was featured in the K-Drama Coffee Prince. The cafe offers a great view of the neighborhood, but also of the city wall going up the mountain, making Sanmotoonge also one of the best cafes in Seoul with a mountain view.

If you have a car (or more spare time) you can visit Bugak Skyway Palgakjung Pavilion just ten minutes east of Buam-dong for another good view of the city.

Eunpyeong and Goyang

In every neighborhood in Seoul, you can find a great number of interesting cafes. But the most beautiful are those at the outskirts of the city (or a little bit beyond), offering a view of one of the many mountains within the borders of Seoul or of the city itself. If you are looking for a day of peace and quiet away from the bustlings city of Seoul, then a cafe day tour in Eunpyeong and Goyang is the way to go.

The first stop is Eunpyeong Hanok Village, a newly constructed Hanok Village with beautiful and modern houses with a traditional style and look. Everything looks brand new but the residents did a good job infusing the neighborhood with the ‘Hanok’-feeling. Eunpyeong Hanok Village is a very good alternative (or addition to your must-see Hanoks list) to more touristy and crowded Hanok villages within Seoul, Jeonju or other cities. Best of all is that the village offers a view of Bukhansan National Park and can even be used as a starting point for a hike.

You can wander through the streets to admire the houses and visit Eunpyeong History & Hanok Museum to learn more about the area before going to the first cafe of the day: Myeonggeumtang Traditional Tea House, for some Korean Traditional Tea or another drink.

After exploring Eunpyeong Hanok Village, head to Jingwansa, one of the major temples in Seoul. The temple site is only a ten-minutes walk from the Hanok village and even less if you parked your car at the temple parking lot. Take a stroll around the temple grounds (or go hiking in Bukhansan National Park) before striking down at Yeonjiwon Traditional Tea House for another drink while absorbing the tranquility of the area.

From the temple site, take the car (or hop back on the bus) to drive ten minutes further north to Pointvill Cafe in Goyang. This cafe has a beautiful garden with a mountain view and a very good atmosphere, as the big amount of visitors and people lounging around all day prove. Time to join them for our last stop of the day. If you like reading, this is also a good cafe to bring a book to and enjoy reading with a beautiful view.

Seochon Hanok Village, Seosomun Shrine History Museum, Seoul Station area

Whereas everyone goes right after visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace (I pointed you right in Day 2 of this Seoul 7 Days Itinerary as well), going left is also a good option that will lead you to Seochon Hanok Village in Tongui-dong. This Hanok Village is not as extensive as Bukchon Hanok Village, but it is far less crowded and also offers historical houses, traditional Korean tea houses and museums.

Let’s start at Daelim Museum today. Depending on the exhibition this can be a very enjoyable or a less interesting stop. When I visited in October 2019, the Serious Fun exhibition was live and as the title suggests, it was a very playful exhibition which made it an interesting stop for adults and children both. There was a room with chess pieces surrounded by mirrors, making you part of the chessboard; a two-color room with white chairs and blue walls and many other rooms that play with colors and light. I enjoyed my visit to this museum very much and if the next exhibitions are as interesting as this one, then I definitely recommend a visit. And that’s something, coming from someone who doesn’t go to museums often.

Daelim Museum is also in the middle of Seochon Hanok Village. When exploring the narrow streets you come across many more museums, traditional houses and art galleries you can visit. Keep in mind that many museums and galleries are closed on Mondays.

I originally planned to go to Solgaheon Cafe for a herbal tea and a footbath but because it was closed I ended up at another Traditional Tea House (놋그릇가지런히) which turned out to be a very good choice: the Jujube Latte I had beats many other drinks I had during the trip and the grilled rice cake side dish is something I’m going to try to make at home.

For lunch, if you’re still hungry after drinking tea with side dishes, you can head to Tongin Market for a light meal.

The next stop is Seosomun Shrine History Museum and Seosomun Park. This museum is interesting because of the interaction between the artworks, the sculptures and the building itself. The architecture of the museum on its own is enough to warrant a visit. There is a lot to see and because of the size of many of the artworks, you feel like you’re one with the art. Seosomun Park, the park on top of Seosomun Shrine History Museum, has many nooks and paths to explore with sculptures of its own.

Walk south from the park to get to Seoul Station and the nearby Lotte Outlets Store and Lotte Mart to do some clothes and food shopping. Follow the Seoul Station Pedestrian Overpass, decorated with plants and seating areas for a good view of Seoul Station and a nice, relaxing walk. At night you can explore Namdaemun Market and find a place to eat in the area.

Practical information

Time your Seoul visit well

This Seoul trip is possible year-round, though you might want to avoid the hot summer. Keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays unless you specifically want to join in the celebrations.

I did this trip over Christmas, visiting concerts, Sinchon Christmas Market and watching the big lit tree in front of City Hall.

Transport and navigation

Navigating in South-Korea is easy. You can use Naver map (Android / iOS) to find optimal walking routes and either Naver or Google maps to calculate optimal public transport routes. It is possible to go by car, but it is not necessary as public transport is really convenient.

Estimated costs

The costs depend on your personal budget. If you choose to use a mid-range hotel your stay will be more expensive than when you stay in hostels. Eating out in South-Korea is not expensive, but certain meals are, like when you want to eat prime quality abalone or samgyeopsal (pork belly).

The costs listed below are based on comfort, but not too luxurious. By choosing a cheaper hotel or hostel you can adjust the costs as you like and still keep low affordable costs per night average.

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul and back: depends on where you live
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with fare: around 45 euro (50 USD) if you stay within Seoul. It can be more expensive if you do day trips.

Food

Around 30 euro (33 USD) daily per person for 7 days: 210 euro (230 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 euro (44 USD) daily per person for 7 days based on a mid-range hotel: 280 (308 USD) euro per person

Wifi

15 euro (16 USD) for 7 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi in can find for many Asian countries.

Even though you can often grab free public wifi, as this trip relies heavily on navigating your way around town it is very convenient to stay connected wherever you are.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation (based on my trip in December 2017). Find out more about Planning a trip to South Korea.

Where to stay in Seoul

For my second visit, I stayed in Gangnam to experience another neighborhood. I chose to stay in Gangnam this time because it is in the southeastern part of the city and I wanted to drive east after picking up my rental car. Plus I was looking for a hotel at walking distance from one of the car rental offices for easy pick-up.

More about South Korea

Have you seen Seoul already? Great! Time to venture beyond the capital and see other Highlights of South Korea or the Lesser-known South and West.

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