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5 Amazing Cable Cars to Ride in South Korea

Kim — Mon, 13 Jan 2020 15:00:00 +0000

The 5 most amazing cable car rides in South Korea have one thing in common: they give easy access to beautiful views. And when you’re up there you feel like you’re on top of the world.

1) Daedunsan Cable Car

My number one cable car in South Korea. Especially in autumn when the leaves turn red. Daedunsan Cable Car takes you a long way up the rocky mountains of Daedunsan National Park. From there you can start hiking across the cloud bridge towards the hanging red stairs and if you feel active even further up. You walk from mountaintop to mountaintop and feel like you’re floating in the air.

Location: 57 Daedunsangongwon-gil, Unju-myeon, Wanju-gun, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea.

You can visit Daedunsan National Park as a day trip from Boryeong, Jeonju or Daejeon. Look here for a way to combine Daedunsan Cable Car in your South Korea itinerary.

2) Cheongpung Lake Cable Car

Who doesn’t want to have a great view without putting in too much effort? You can reach the observation deck overlooking Jecheon Lake and the mountains of Woraksan National Park without hiking! Cheongpung Lake Cable Car brings you straight to the top where you can admire a 360-degree view from one of the observation decks. There is even a cafe at the top with an excellent bakery.

Location: 166 Munhwajae-gil, Cheongpung-myeon, Jecheon-si, Chungcheongbuk-do, South Korea.

Read more about Cheongpung Lake Cable Car.

3) Seoraksan Cable Car

This Cable Car in Seoraksan National Park near Sokcho brings you a long way to the top. What was once Gwongeumseong Fortress is now a viewpoint and picnic area with a beautiful view. It is a good travel destination in all seasons. Only ten minutes of climbing stairs required. You can see the mountains of Seoraksan National park on one side and Sokcho city on the other side.

And at ground level, there is this whole park with hiking trails, temples, and sculptures to explore.

Location: 1137 Seoraksan-ro, Seorak-dong, Sokcho-si, Gangwon-do, South Korea.

Read more: Things to do in Sokcho

4) Tongyeong Cable Car

Overlooking an archipelago of small islands from the top of Mount Mireuksan. A visit to Tongyeong Cable Car feels almost like a tropical destination. From the observation deck at the end of the Cable Car ride, you can see the city of Tongyeong and its harbor. With only a twenty minutes’ walk, you can reach the viewpoint that gives you a 360-degree view of the area. If you’re lucky, you can see as far as Japan!

Location: 910-2 Yeongun-ri, Sanyang-eup, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, South Korea.

You can visit Tongyeong as a day trip from Busan or Suncheon. Look here for a way to combine Tongyeong Cable Car in your South Korea itinerary.

5) Duryunsan Cable Car

Perhaps least known of them all is Duryunsan Cable Car. The clouds obscured much of the view during my visit, downgrading this stop to the fifth position in this list (still impressive!). From the top, a fifteen minutes’ walk from the Cable Car station, you have a beautiful view of the surrounding area, including Duryunsan’s eight peaks and if you are lucky, Hallasan on Jeju Island. You literally feel like you’re on top of the world.

Location: 88-45 Daeheungsa-gil, Samsan-myeon, Haenam-gun, Jeollanam-do, South Korea.

You can visit Duryunsan as a day trip from Boseong, Mokpo or Wando. Look here for a way to combine Duryunsan Cable Car in your South Korea itinerary.

That’s it, the 5 Most Amazing Cable Cars to Ride in South Korea. Each offering a unique view of the National Park or mountain area they’re part of. It doesn’t matter if it is lakes, seas, mountains or hills, the scenery gets to me every single time. High up the mountain, I believe I can do anything. And the inspiration lingers long enough for me to take action after going down.

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Alternatives for a touristy Korean DMZ… or the swine flu

Kim — Mon, 06 Jan 2020 15:00:00 +0000

Are you looking for a less touristy visit to the Korean DMZ (Demilitarized Zone)? Then visit Ganghwa Peace Observatory and Eulji Observatory.

Update January 2020 Since October 2019 there has been an outbreak of African Swine Flu along the South Korean border with North Korea. Because of this, it is not possible to visit the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) near Paju that is the most popular tourist destination as a day trip from Seoul. But no need to despair: there are interesting alternatives.

On my visits to South Korea, I visited the alternatives to the Paju DMZ, so I can tell you all about them. For me this was a conscious choice: there was no swine flu outbreak at that time and I chose to visit the lesser-known DMZ sites because they appealed to me more.

I visited all sites (except Goseong Observatory) on my own by car, but it is also possible to join an organized tour to the Korean DMZ.

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links and if you go through them to make a purchase I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

What is the Korean DMZ?

The Korean DMZ, or Korean Demilitarized Zone, is a strip of uninhabited land dividing South Korea and North Korea.

The DMZ is guarded by soldiers on both sides and you are not allowed to cross. Along the 250 kilometers long border, you can visit some of the observatories or old infiltration tunnels to get some insights into the history of the Korean War and at the same time learn more about the current tension between two countries that were formerly one.

1a) Most popular: DMZ near Paju

The most popular DMZ to visit is the one near Paju. This is where all the tourists go. You can easily visit this site as a day trip from Seoul as part of a tour via GetYourGuide or Klook.

Things to see

Imjingak Park with many war monuments and military statues
Freedom Bridge and the old steam train
National Memorial Hall of the Korean War Abductees
3rd Infiltration Tunnel: the invasion route lying between the border of North and South Korea
Panmunjom
Panoramic views of North Korea from Dora Observatory tower
Another view of North Korea from Odusan Unification Tower

1b) While Paju DMZ is closed...

You can’t visit the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel or Panmunjom at the moment because of the African Swine Flu outbreak, but you can still visit Imjingak Park, the Freedom Bridge and many memorial sites in the area.

The tour operators also offer alternative tours to Imjingak Park or even Ganghwa Peace Observatory.

Near the Paju DMZ, you can still visit the following sites.

Imjingak Nuri Peace park

At this park, you can see sculptures and other works of art symbolizing (a wish for) peace.

Location

148-40 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Always open

National Memorial Hall of the Korean War Abductees

Cross the road from Imjingak Nuri Peace Park to visit the War Memorial Museum. Inside the building, you can visit the exhibition “Last Family Portraits” showing the pain of families separated by the border between North and South Korea. Many pictures and testimonials stare at you and show the heartbrokenness of mothers and sons and fathers and daughters.

Outside you can stroll past the statues commemorating the loses suffered by many countries during the war.

Location

153 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Tuesday – Sunday: 9:30 – 17:30

Freedom Bridge

Walking past the Memorial Hall and the statues you reach the Freedom Bridge with the blockade at the end.

Location

Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Old steam train

Near the Freedom Bridge, you get to see an old Steam Train in front of the Beat 131 art exhibition area.

Location

Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea

How to get to Imjingak Park?

By car from Seoul

From City Hall in Seoul (near Myeongdong / Gyeongbokgung Palace) you can drive to Imjingak Park in one hour (without traffic jams).

By bus from Seoul

Take the subway from City Hall in Seoul to Hapjeong subway station. From Hapjeong subway station you can take a direct bus to Imjingak Park. The journey from City Hall takes an hour and a half.

Join a DMZ tour from Seoul

You can also join a DMZ tour organized by GetYourGuide or Klook and have everything taken care of. Besides the sites mentioned above, you will visit many more interesting places along the way.

2) DMZ at Ganghwa Island

West of Seoul lies Ganghwa Island; a very popular getaway destination for people living in Seoul. At the northern tip of this island, you can visit Ganghwa Peace Observatory.

The site at Ganghwa lies north of the Civilian Passage Restriction Line at Cheolsan-ri in Yangsa-myeon and has only been open to the public since 2008. As you pass the security area you get a visitor pass for your car that you have to return to the same army post after your visit. When I got there the soldiers were very excited to see some foreigners while trying to determine which of them was most confident speaking English.

As you drive further north, the area gets more desolate and the security gets tighter. Your route is guided by barbed wire to your right. You really feel like you’re crossing some border, even though a visit to this DMZ (in the form of a river) feels like a relaxing adventure when you drive on small roads surrounded by rice fields and farms.

Ganghwa Peace Observatory is not like the DMZ near Paju: there is no Infiltration Tunnel to explore nor can you see the security area. You can get very close to North Korea though and watch the other side using the binoculars at the observatory.

Ganghwa Peace Observatory

The first things you see when walking to the observatory from the parking lot are the painted tanks. The colors almost disguise the seriousness of this weapon.

You can watch North Korea using the binoculars at the observatory and see the unique cultural ecosystem of North Korea that you can’t see from other DMZ sites in South Korea. If you look down you can see the artillery aimed at the border between the north and the south. Inside the building, you can add your wish for peace to those already hanging on the artificial tree.

If you head left after leaving the Observatory building you see the statue iconic for this DMZ with music playing in the background.

Location

산6-1 Cheolsan-ri, Yangsa-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

9:00 – 18:00 every day

How to get to Ganghwa Peace Observatory

By car from Seoul

You can drive to Ganghwa Peace Observatory from Seoul in about an hour and fifteen minutes. Check out my South Korea itinerary for more places to visit on Ganghwa Island.

By bus from Seoul

It takes about two hours (depending on where you’re staying) to get from Seoul to the Ganghwa Observatory by bus. You have to take two or three different buses but they will get you all the way (and you can get off and stop at other sights as well!). Check out my South Korea itinerary for more things to do on Ganghwa Island.

Join a DMZ tour from Seoul

GetYourGuide and Klook currently offer a trip to Ganghwa Peace Observatory as an alternative to the regular tour to Paju DMZ because of the Swine Flu.

3) DMZ at Gyodong Island

West of Ganghwa Island lies the smaller island Gyodong. The observatory on Gyodong Island is a really small site to visit (meaning two binoculars in the wild) but it is not that far from Ganghwa Island.

Only visit this one if you are visiting Gyodong Island anyway; it is not worth a visit on its own. You can read more about things to do on Gyodong Island in my South Korea itinerary.

Gyodong Observatory

At the Gyodong Observatory, you can use one of the two binoculars to look at North Korea. This is the most private DMZ experience you can get.

You can park your car at the small parking lot and walk in ten seconds to the top of the hill where you can find two binoculars and a few memorial stones and that’s it.

It is kinda underwhelming, but at the same time has its charm because you have to drive to the middle of nowhere to get there. The road to the observatory leads you on small roads through tiny villages surrounded by farm fields.

I added Gyodong Observatory to this list because you can’t find much information about it online. At least now you know what to expect! I don’t regret going there at all. It was an interesting experience.

Location

Jiseok-ri, Gyodong-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Always open

How to get to Gyodong Observatory

By car from Seoul

You can drive to Gyodong Observatory from Seoul in about an hour and a half. When passing the bridge from Ganghwa Island to Gyodong Island you pass a military guard post and receive a visitor pass just like you do when visiting Ganghwa Peace Observatory.

Check out my South Korea itinerary for more things to do on Gyodong Island.

4) DMZ at Yanggu

Eulji Observatory is a DMZ on the eastern side of South Korea. A visit to this observatory is more convenient as a day trip from Chuncheon or Sokcho than from Seoul.

The Observatory is located at the ridge of Gachilbong Peak at only 1km from the DMZ. What makes this one more interesting than other DMZs is that there is also an infiltration tunnel to explore and a ‘Punchbowl’ (Haean basin) with a nice view of the surrounding area to visit.

This is the DMZ visit I liked best because of its location in a mountain area.

Yanggu Unification Hall

Before you can visit the tunnel you need to stop by Unification Hall to register your visit. They will give you a blue paper for access to Eulji Observatory and a yellow and pink paper for the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Make sure you don’t hand in your yellow or pink paper at Eulji Observatory (that happened to us: the soldier at the guard post wouldn’t let us leave with our yellow paper) or you’ll have to get a new one at the Unification Hall before visiting the Tunnel.

In the Unification Hall, you can find Exhibitions and an Agricultural Speciality Market. Also nearby is a War Memorial Museum.

Location

720 Hu-ri, Haean-myeon, Yanggu-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

March – October: 9:00 – 18:00;
November – February: 9:00 – 17:00.

The last admission time is one hour before closing. You’re not allowed to enter the 4th Infiltration Tunnel during lunchtime (12:00 – 13:00). Keep in mind that times may change and the tunnel might close because of the weather (like a tornado; this happened to me but luckily I checked the website the day before and could change my itinerary).

Eulji Observatory

At the observatory, you can watch the DMZ in a mountainous area. You can see the wall and guard posts going up and down the mountain slopes as far as you can look.

Eulji Observatory is a 7km (15 – 20 minutes) drive from the Unification Hall. After visiting the Observatory and Haean basin, you have to drive the same way back to the rotund near the Unification Hall and take the other road to the 4th Infiltration Tunnel.

Haean basin (punch bowl)

Outside the observatory, you can gaze over Haean Basin, also called the “Punch Bowl”.

4th Infiltration Tunnel

The 4th Infiltration Tunnel is a 4km (10 minutes) drive from Unification Hall.

You can walk into the tunnel and take a short train ride (less than a minute) into the North Korean side of the tunnel. Don’t do this if you are claustrophobic, because the tunnel gets really small.

At the point where the South Korean part of the tunnel and the North Korean part intersect you can see the difference in creation. Whereas the South used advanced tools (after calculating where to intersect) to create a smooth tunnel, the North Koreans used small explosions to create their tiny and chunky tunnel.

I can’t imagine being one of the people having to create a tunnel like this for days on end.

How to get to Eulji Observatory

A visit to the observatory and tunnel is only possible by car or organized tour; no bicycles or motorcycles allowed.

By car from Sokcho, Chuncheon or Seoul

You can drive to the Unification hall in about an hour from Sokcho, an hour and twenty minutes from Chuncheon or two and a half hours from Seoul. Find out other stops to make during this day trip in my South Korea Itinerary.

Join a DMZ tour

Yanggu County organizes tours to Eulji Observatory and the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Not much information is available online, but you can find their contact information here. The pamphlet I got in October 2019 lists +82 033-253-4567 as the phone number for the Yanggu City Tour.

5) DMZ at Goseong Unification Observatory

North of Sokcho, a city on the east coast of South Korea, you can visit Goseong Unification Observatory and the DMZ museum for a peek into North Korea. It is easy to reach by car, but not so easy otherwise. Compared to the DMZ near Paju, this is a very quiet and desolate place. But if you’re looking for a less touristy border experience, then Goseong is a good option.

I didn’t visit this DMZ, so I can’t share any personal experiences.

Location

일전망대로 457, Hyeonnae-myeon, Goseong-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

From 09:00 with a final departure time from the security point of 15:50 in winter, 16:20 in spring and fall and 17:30 in summer.

How to get to Goseong Unification Observatory

By car from Sokcho

You can drive to Goseong Unification Observatory in about an hour.

Join a DMZ tour

Trazy organizes a combined tour to Seoraksan National Park and Goseong Unification Observatory.

The post Alternatives for a touristy Korean DMZ… or the swine flu appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Things to do in Sokcho

Kim — Mon, 21 Oct 2019 13:30:05 +0000

Planning a trip to Sokcho, South Korea? Find out about the best things to do in Sokcho and the nearby Yangyang and Gangneung.

Sokcho, a small town on the eastern coast of South Korea is well known for being one of the gateways for exploring Seoraksan National Park. (And among a niche group it is also known as the first city in South Korea where you could play Pokémon Go). Less known is that Sokcho also offers nice beaches and many cultural sites in the area. The DMZ is also reachable within one hour.

How to get to Sokcho

By car: Sokcho is a two-hour drive from Seoul

By plane: Yangyang International Airport is only 20 km from Sokcho

By public transport: a direct bus takes you in two and a half hours from East Seoul Bus Terminal to Sokcho

If you are considering a visit to Sokcho as a day trip from Seoul, then check out the tours by GetYourGuide for a fully organised trip.

Where to stay in Sokcho

Sokcho has many hotels in the area. If you’re traveling by public transport then a hotel in the city itself is recommended so you have better access to buses and restaurants. If you have a rental car then it is more interesting to look for a place closer to Seoraksan, surrounded by nature.

When I did this trip in May 2018 I stayed at Seorak Pension and I can highly recommend this pension. It is located in a quiet area between Sokcho and Seoraksan National Park. The Japanese rooms are quite big and clean and the owners are very friendly. When I was staying there they brought over Korean tea and iced tea when they saw me reading a book in the BBQ and picnic area next to the hotel. If you travel by car, you can park it right next to the pension. If you’re using public transport you’re probably better off nearer to the city center of Sokcho.

Things to do in and near Sokcho

You can find all the things to do near Sokcho on my Google map.

Visit Seoraksan National Park

This beautiful national park has a variety of hiking routes and what’s also great: you can take the cable car to the top and reach a good viewing point. From the exit of the cable car, it is only a ten-minute walk to Gwongeumseong Fortress remains. This is great if you want a more relaxing day or if you are not able to walk for hours. The cable car is very near to the entrance of Sogongwon Park. It’s worth it to look around the park itself as well as there are many statues to see.

From Gwongeumseong Fortress you can follow a short side trail (starting near the service building) to a remote temple (see my pinterest picture at the bottom of this post for an impression). Outside of the busy season, you’ll probably be the only one taking this path!

If you want to go hiking there are many trails to choose from. Especially those to Ulsanbawi Peak, Biryong Waterfall, Geumggangul Cave and Biseondae are popular.

Please check if there are any access restrictions before your visit to Seoraksan National Park.

Abai Village

A small village of North Korean expats on an island near Sokcho. You can take the boat, but also drive over the bridge and park on the island itself. The village is small, but there is a lovely beach at the end with a nice view of Sokcho with the mountains in the backdrop. While you’re there try the Korean specialty Abai Sundae: blood sausage with squid casing and filling.

Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market

Score some fresh sashimi or try numerous other snacks or meals in one of the stalls. In the picture above you can see their Squid bread which you can eat with either Pumpkin, Cheese, Vegetable, Red bean or Squid ink filling.

If you’re wondering why half of the people you see are carrying flat boxes (sometimes six of them), head over to Manseok chicken stall and try their fried chicken (recommended!).

How to get there
The market is in the middle of the city. Try to park at the big parking lot south of the market (near the river).

Opening hours
From 08:00. The exact times vary per store.

Naksansa Temple (Yangyang)

Beautiful temple grounds featuring many small buildings and temples, statues and a giant Stone Buddha. It’s only a short drive south of Sokcho and can easily be combined with a day trip to Gangneung.

How to get there from Sokcho
Drive 11 minutes south along the coast. There are parking lots near the harbor but you can also drive all the way up to the entrance to park there (might be full at busy times).

Opening hours
6:00 – 20:30

Olympic Stadium (Gangneung)

The 2018 Winter Olympics were partly held in Gangneung. You can still see the stadium that was used, and if you drive on to Gangneung City Hall you can see the statues of the Olympics mascots, though they might not always be there. For me, this was an interesting stop as I went there within months after the Olympics, but years later it might not be as interesting.

Gyeongpo Provincial Park (Gangneung)

Gyeongpo Provincial Park is a small wetland reserve with interesting sculptures. I originally went there to see the lotus pond, but unfortunately, it was one big mud pool when I went in May 2018. Even without the lotus pond, the park is a great place for a stroll. Extra: from the park, you can see the Olympic Stadium.

Ojukheon House (Gangneung)

This house, built about 500 years ago, is the birthplace of the Confucian Scholar Yi I and his mother Shin Saimdang. It was featured in the Korean TV drama Saimdang, Light’s Diary and has been designated as a national treasure.

Opening hours
8:00 – 18:00, but 9:00 – 18:00 in winter

Jeongdong Simgok sea fan road (Gangneung)

An almost 3km man-made coastal trail connecting Jeongdongjin and Simgok port. It has recently (2016) been opened to the public after being used exclusively by the coast guard. From the trail, you can watch the tectonic changes of millions of years ago.

Opening hours
Summer (April to October): 09:00 ~ 17:30 (Ticketing Time: Until 16:30).
Winter Season (November ~ March): 09:00 ~ 16:30 (Ticketing Time: Until 15:30.

The road might close if the weather makes walking the trail too dangerous. Please check before your visit.

Goseong Unification Observatory

At about an hour’s drive from Sokcho you can visit the Goseong Unification Observatory and the DMZ museum for a peek into North Korea. It’s easy to reach by car, but not so easy otherwise. Compared to the DMZ near Paju, this is a very quiet and desolate place. But if you’re looking for a less touristy border experience, then Goseong is a good option.

Opening hours
From 09:00 with a final departure time from the security point of 15:50 in winter, 16:20 in spring and fall and 17:30 in summer.

Eulji Observatory (Yanggu)

Also at an hour’s drive from Sokcho you can visit Eulji Observatory for a different border experience. Eulji Observatory is located at the ridge of Gachilbong Peak at only 1km from the DMZ. What makes this one more interesting is that there is also an infiltration tunnel to explore and a ‘Punchbowl’ (Haean basin) with a nice view of the surrounding area to visit.

Practical information

Before you can visit the tunnel you need to stop by Unification Hall to register your visit. They will give you a blue paper for access to Eulji Observatory and a yellow and pink paper for the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Make sure you don’t hand in your yellow or pink paper at Eulji Observatory (that happened to us: the soldier at the guard post wouldn’t let us leave with our yellow paper) or you’ll have to get a new one at the Unification Hall before visiting the Tunnel. In the Unification Hall, you can find Exhibitions and an Agricultural Speciality Market. Also nearby is a War Memorial Museum.

Opening hours
March – October 09:00 – 18:00; November – February 09:00 – 17:00. Last admission time is one hour before closing. You’re not allowed to enter the 4th Infiltration Tunnel during lunch time (12:00 – 13:00).

A visit to the observatory and tunnel is only possible by car or organized tour; no bicycles or motorcycles allowed.

What to read when visiting Sokcho

Elisa Shua Dusapin - Winter in Sokcho

Winter in Sokcho by French author Elisa Shua Dusapin is a beautiful story set in South Korea, wonderfully crafted with a deeper layer underneath.

It’s winter in Sokcho, a tourist town on the border between South and North Korea. The cold slows everything down. Bodies are red and raw, the fish turn venomous, beyond the beach guns point out from the North’s watchtowers. A young French Korean woman works as a receptionist in a tired guesthouse. One evening, an unexpected guest arrives: a French cartoonist determined to find inspiration in this desolate landscape.

The two form an uneasy relationship. When she agrees to accompany him on trips to discover an ‘authentic’ Korea, they visit snowy mountaintops and dramatic waterfalls, and cross into North Korea. But he takes no interest in the Sokcho she knows – the gaudy neon lights, the scars of war, the fish market where her mother works. As she’s pulled into his vision and taken in by his drawings, she strikes upon a way to finally be seen.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

From Sokcho you can reach Eulji Observatory and Goseong Unification Observatory near the border with North Korea within an hour and Abai Village also has a link with North Korean expats. So my other reading recommendation for this part of the trip is:

Masaji Ishikawa - A River of Darkness: One Man’s Escape from North Korea

About the treatment of someone stuck between two worlds. It makes you want to fix the world, but just like the main character, you probably won’t be able to do anything about it.

Half-Korean, half-Japanese, Masaji Ishikawa has spent his whole life feeling like a man without a country. This feeling only deepened when his family moved from Japan to North Korea when Ishikawa was just thirteen years old, and unwittingly became members of the lowest social caste. His father, himself a Korean national, was lured to the new Communist country by promises of abundant work, education for his children, and a higher station in society. But the reality of their new life was far from utopian.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Planning your itinerary

Check out my Highlights of South Korea post to find out how you can easily add Sokcho to your travel itinerary for South Korea.

The post Things to do in Sokcho appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Highlights of South Korea by car in three weeks: a travel itinerary

Kim — Mon, 09 Sep 2019 16:32:31 +0000

Tour South Korea in three weeks by car and visit all the highlights with this travel itinerary. From Seoul, the capital of South Korea to Sokcho, Jeonju, Busan and Jeju. If you are looking for a well-balanced mix of big cities, culture and nature, then this travel itinerary is for you.

Travel itinerary overview

Seoul – day 1 – 3
Sokcho – day 4 – 6
Andong – day 7 – 8
Jeonju – day 9 – 11
Gwangyang – day 12 – 15 (you can also stay in Suncheon or Boseong)
Busan – day 16 – 18
Jeju – day 19 – 21
Practical information

Use this itinerary if you want a comfortable trip. It’s not a quick see-it-all, but a well-balanced itinerary using one city as a base for exploring the area.

Have you seen all the above already? Then check out my lesser-known south and west of South Korea itinerary for second or third time visitors.

Click here to see the map for this three weeks South Korea itinerary in Google maps.

Seoul day 1 - 3

Day 1 - Myeongdong and Seoul Tower

Your first day in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Be prepared to visit the diverse neighborhoods: go shopping, try out the food, admiring the architecture.

After arriving, buy a public transport card and load it with 60.000 Won and head towards the bus station to catch a bus 6701 to City Hall. For first time visitors, the area around City Hall is the perfect starting point to go sightseeing in Seoul: two well-connected subway lines nearby and the Seoul train station within walking distance. At night you can walk to the vibrant area of Myeongdong for entertainment.

If you arrive early, visit Lotte Department store and browse the stores and supermarket.

Spend the afternoon wandering about Myeongdong, a popular shopping destination for cosmetics and clothes. This area is busy all day but comes to life at night.

When it gets dark take the cable car up to Namsan Tower for a nice view over the city. Afterward, head back to the street food stalls in Myeongdong to eat your first tteokbokki of your trip. The start of the cable car is within walking distance from Myeongdong. While walking you can see the lights playing with Shinsegae and Lotte Department Store. The Bank of Korea (opposite of Shinsegae) is also an interesting building to see; its ‘western’ architecture not quite matching the modern buildings surrounding it.

Day 2 - Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream

Tip for eating Korean food in South Korea

Many restaurants don’t open before 11 am. At least not the ones you can find information about online. But there are many small family-owned establishments that open early and you can see many locals wandering in.

Check my Search for breakfast in South Korea post for more tips.

On the road between City Hall and Gyeongbokgung Palace you can see the statue of King Sejong, the inventor of South Korean’s Hangul script. Follow the boulevard to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Admire the view of the old palace and take a walk on the palace grounds. Keep walking until you find yourself straight ahead until you reach the far end of the palace grounds. You will find yourself alone with ample photo opportunities. If you go to the North exit you can see the Blue House.

Turn back into the park and take the east exit towards Bukchon Hanok village. Wander around the small streets and visit a tea house for a traditional tea with snacks to show off your tea-making skills.

From there head towards Insadong; it’s all within walking distance. Visit the craft stores and Ssamziegil mall. If you’re up for some more tea you can go to Osulloc: a modern tea house.

For dinner tonight head towards the area in between Insadong and Chyeonggyecheon stream. This area looks best at night when all the billboards are lighting up the area. Try your hand at grilling your own meat.

Take a stroll along Chyeonggyecheon stream and turn right near Ganghwamun subway station to visit Kyobo Gwanghwamun Bookstore (open until 10 pm). Find out more about the most popular Korean books.

Day 3 - Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam

Take the subway to Noryangjin fish market for breakfast. Buy the fish you want to eat for breakfast and head to one of the restaurants with your bought fish to have it prepared for you.

Head to Samsung D’light and do the interactive tour to admire Samsung’s innovations. From there go to Apgujeong-ro in Gangnam for a walk along K-Star road and many luxury stores. From here walk to Garosu-gil (the ‘tree-lined street’) for a drink at Eighty seconds or if you want something less touristy, head to the area around Bongeunsa-ro 2 gil in Yeoksam-dong; my favorite restaurant and cafe area in Gangnam.

Where to stay in Seoul

Seoul has many hotels. You can stay in any of the neighborhoods and explore the city from there. When depending on public transport I always look for hotels situated near important subway stations or bus hubs so I can explore the whole city with ease.

For first time visitors, I recommend staying near City Hall, as it has two important subway lines nearby and Seoul Train Station is within walking distance. At night you can explore the vibrant area of Myeongdong for entertainment.

My recommendation is Travelodge Myeongdong City Hall: a very good location near City Hall, not expensive and clean and big enough rooms. There is a spa in the hotel, but it is for men only. I stayed in this hotel for one week over Christmas and I would stay here again if I was looking for a hotel near City Hall.

For my second visit, I stayed in Gangnam to experience another neighborhood. I chose to stay in Gangnam this time because it is in the southeastern part of the city and I wanted to drive east after picking up my rental car. Plus I was looking for a hotel within walking distance from one of the car rental offices for easy pick-up.

If you want to stay in Gangnam I recommend Best Western Premier Hotel Gangnam. It is at a walking distance from two useful subway lines connecting you to the northern part of the city: Sinnonhyeon subway station (also a very useful bus hub) and Gangnam subway station, which makes it a very good starting location for exploring the city. The hotel service is good, the rooms are big enough and affordable.

What to read when visiting Seoul

See my Best Korean books to read before your visit to South Korea post to find out about the most popular Korean books.

More things to do in Seoul?

In my 11 Ways to Spend Your Day in Seoul you can find many more things to do in and around Seoul.
5 Best Cafes with a Mountain View in Seoul
Visit Daelim Museum in Seoul
Christmas and Christmas concerts in Seoul
Visit the Korean DMZ

Sokcho - day 4 - 6

Day 4 - Seoul to Sokcho - Garden of Morning Calm and Nami Island

Pick up your rental car in the morning. Visit the Garden of Morning Calm and see the blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snowy landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as a day trip from Seoul as the whole garden will be lighted and look like a winter wonderland.

From there, head to the ferry starting point for Nami Island and take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata.

If you have time left go to Chuncheon to try Chuncheon Dakgalbi or visit Gubongsan Mountain Observatory. If not head straight to Sokcho from here.

Day 5 - Sokcho Tourist Market, Abai Village, Naksansa Temple

Head to Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market for breakfast. Score some fresh sashimi or try numerous other snacks or meals in one of the stalls. If you’re wondering why half of the people you see are carrying flat boxes (sometimes six of them), head over to Mansuk Dak Gangjeong chicken stall and try their fried chicken (recommended!).

Take a short drive to Abai Village; a small village of North Korean expats. You can take the boat, but also drive over the bridge and park on the island itself. The village is small, but there is a lovely beach at the end with a nice view over Sokcho with the mountains in the backdrop. While you’re there try Abai Sundae, blood sausage with squid casing and filling

Follow the coast further south to visit Naksansa temple grounds, featuring many small buildings and temples, statues and a giant Stone Buddha.

Day 6 - Seoraksan National Park

Sokcho is famous as one of the gateways for exploring Seoraksan National Park. (And among a niche group: the first city in South Korea where you could play Pokemon Go).

Go for a hike to Ulsanbawi peak, Biryong Waterfall, Geumganggul Cave, Biseondae or one of the other routes. It is also possible to take a cable car to Gwongeumseong Fortress and take the stairs (10 minutes) to the top and admire the breathtaking view.

Where to stay in Sokcho

I recommend Seorak Pension. This pension is located in a quiet area between Sokcho and Seoraksan National Park. The Japanese rooms are quite big and clean and the owners are very friendly. When I was staying there they brought over Korean tea and iced tea when they saw me reading a book in the BBQ and picnic area next to the hotel. If you travel by car, you can park it right next to the pension. If you’re using public transport you’re probably better off nearer to the city center of Sokcho.

What to read in Sokcho

From Sokcho you can reach the Goseong Unification Observatory near the border with North Korea within an hour and Abai Village also has a link with North Korean expats. So my reading recommendation for this part of the trip is:

Masaji Ishikawa - A River of Darkness: One Man’s Escape from North Korea

About the treatment of someone stuck between two worlds. It makes you want to fix the world, but just like the main character, you probably won’t be able to do anything about it.

Interested? You can get your copy from Amazon.

Where to eat in Sokcho

The restaurant next to Seorak Pension: 고향민속마을 serves a good Sundubu (soft tofu soup) and also has good reviews in KakaoMap. I can also recommend their bibimbap with mountain vegetables.

Sashimi, fried chicken or snacks at Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market.

Try Abai Sundae (blood sausage with squid casing and filling) in Abai Village.

>> Read more about Sokcho in my Sokcho Special

Andong - Day 7 - 8

Day 7 - Sokcho to Andong - Gangneung and Taebaek

Head to Gangneung to visit the Olympic Stadium used for the 2018 Winter Olympics. Afterward, take a stroll in Gyeongpo Provincial Park; a small wetland reserve with interesting sculptures. If you’re lucky the lotus pond is filled with lotus flowers again; in May 2018 it was one big mud pool.

From there on take the mountain road enjoying the scenery and stop in Taebaek for lunch. After lunch continue onwards to Andong.

Where to eat in Taebaek

There are many Korean BBQ restaurants in the area. I ate at 태성실비식당 and enjoyed it very much. The side dishes were good too.

Day 8 - Dosanseowon Confucian Academy, Hahoe Folk Village

Today will be all about culture and history. In the morning drive north to Dosanseowon Confucian Academy, the intellectual home of Korean Confucianism established in 1574. Not only are the buildings quite a sight to see, but the surrounding area is also beautiful. It is easy to imagine studying in peace at such a location.

Head over to the west of Andong to visit Hahoe Folk Village, a well kept open-air museum and have lunch at a traditional restaurant. Explore the traditional houses in the village and try some of the Soju brewed there. Other food tips: Heotjesabap (a type of Bibimbap eaten by the nobles), Andong Gangodeungeo (salted mackerel), and Andong Guksu (a kind of noodle dish).

Where to stay in Andong

For Andong, I just had to choose a traditional house for a hotel. I stayed in Nongamjongtaek, a building complex (originally a noble’s house) that has been passed on for generations from eldest son to eldest son. There are smaller rooms connected to the main house, but you can also end up with your own private building with a porch as I did. It’s situated at a beautiful historical location with a stream surrounded by mountains. The hosts were very friendly and caring. Traditional Korean breakfast is included (very good with many side dishes) and the lady of the house brought over home-made snacks in the evening. This is not a cheap hotel to stay at but for me, the experience was totally worth it (and you can compensate it with cheaper hotels/motels in other cities).

What to read in Andong

This book isn’t set in the Andong area (more in Seoul and China), but the main character partly grew up in the Andong area and uses Andong soju for commemoration service.

Yi Mun-Yol - Meeting with my brother

Narrated by a middle-aged South Korean professor, also named Yi, whose father abandoned his family and defected to the North at the outbreak of the Korean War. Many years later, despite having spent most of his life under a cloud of suspicion as the son of a traitor, Yi is prepared to reunite with his father. Yet before a rendezvous on the Chinese border can be arranged, his father dies. Yi then learns for the first time that he has a half-brother, whom he chooses to meet instead. As the two confront their shared legacy, their encounter takes a surprising turn.

Meeting with My Brother represents the political and psychological complexity of Koreans on both sides of the border, offering a complex yet poignant perspective on the divisions between the two countries. Through a series of charged conversations, Yi explores the nuances of reunification, both political and personal. This semi autobiographical account draws on Yi’s own experience of growing up with an absent father who defected to the North and the stigma of family disloyalty.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Jeonju - day 9 - 11

Day 9 - Andong to Jeonju - Andong pagoda and hot spring footbath in Daejeon

On the right side of Andong, you can find a sole surviving stone pagoda next to train tracks. Even though the pagoda on its own is not very impressive, with the traditional building behind it it’s quite photogenic. The main attraction here is to observe how modern buildings and facilities were built around it in not a very pretty way.

Take the highway and head over to Daejeon. If you have time you can park around Jungangno to go shopping. Otherwise, go straight to the Yuseong Spa area for a relaxing and free open-air footbath with hot spring water before you go on to Jeonju.

Day 10 - Jiff Film street, Jeonju Hanok Village

Go shopping in the area around Jeonjugaeksa 5-gil and head south towards Pungnammun Gate.

From there go east and you walk right into Jeonju Hanok Village. Admire the art, the crafts and the buildings. Take pictures with other visitors in Hanbok, Korean traditional clothing or try one on yourself. Rest and drink tea in one of the traditional houses.

Jeonju is famous for its food culture: especially Jeonju Bibimbap (with raw beef tartare) and tteokgalbi (grilled beef patties). At night the area with streetfood stalls really comes to life, so if you’re feeling adventurous (don’t worry, it’s safe) try some grilled cheese, octopus or chicken skewers, Moju, strawberry rice cake or drink infusions.

Day 11 - Deokjinho lake, Jaman Mural Village, Gyeonggijeon Shrine

Visit Deokjinho lake and park in the morning and take a stroll around Myeonnyun 4-gil, a street that is very much alive with university students.

Afterward, head to Jaman Mural Village to watch the beautiful murals and take pictures of the view over Jeonju Hanok Village. Try some Bingsu (shaved ice cream) while enjoying the view. For dinner, you can easily walk over to Hanok Village.

Where to stay in Jeonju

There are many good places to stay in Jeonju. I chose White Tourist Hotel because the rooms were spacious, it had a hotel parking lot and it was situated in a quiet area. You can also stay in Jeonju Hanok Village, but as I had just spent two days in a traditional house in Andong, I preferred a bed over the floor. From this hotel, you can walk to Deokjinho lake (via Myeonnyun 4-gil) and back and take the car or bus to Jeonju Hanok village and Jaman Mural Village. I also found a really nice café and a good Jeonju Bibimbap restaurant near the hotel.

What to eat and drink in Jeonju

Jeonju Bibimbap: in Jeonju they top the bibimbap with raw beef tartare (you can also choose one with another topping). I went to Hangukkwan for mine and can recommend this restaurant (near White Tourist Hotel).

Jeonju beef patties: all over Jeonju Hanok Village you’ll see restaurants offering beef burgers of seasoned meat, often served with pineapple and grilled cheese.

Snowing cafe (스노잉카페 본점): I really enjoyed this cafe. The drinks look pretty and the cafe interior looks nice. Visit this cafe to try some ice topped tea or coffee.

Jeonju street food: try grilled cheese, chicken or octopus on a stick, strawberry rice cake and many more snacks.

Gwangyang - day 12 - 15 (you can also stay in Suncheon or Boseong)

Day 12 - Jeonju to Gwangyang - Damyang Bamboo Forest and Gwangju Student Uprising monument

From Jeonju drive over to Damyang to visit Juknokwon bamboo forest to take a walk with the bamboo shoots towering over you. The forest can be quite crowded near the entrance, but as you follow the path it becomes quieter. There is also a garden within the complex where you can relax.

Your next stop is the Gwangju monument of the Student Uprising of May 18, 1980, when many students took up arms to protest against the martial law government. The sculptures are in the middle of a small park and show the desperation the people involved must have felt very well. If you’re interested to know more about what happened during the uprising, please check out the book and movie recommendation below.

You can then head over to your hotel in the Gwangyang, Suncheon and Boseong area.

What to read and watch before Gwangju

Han Kang’s Human Acts gives a close account of the killing that took place during the Student Uprising. It’s written from a student’s point of view and simply a must-read when you plan to visit Gwangju.

I don’t usually recommend movies, but for Gwangju, I’d recommend A Taxi Driver.

Han Kang - Human Acts

In the midst of a violent student uprising in South Korea, a young boy named Dong-ho is shockingly killed.

The story of this tragic episode unfolds in a sequence of interconnected chapters as the victims and the bereaved encounter suppression, denial, and the echoing agony of the massacre. From Dong-ho’s best friend who meets his own fateful end; to an editor struggling against censorship; to a prisoner and a factory worker, each suffering from traumatic memories; and to Dong-ho’s own grief-stricken mother; and through their collective heartbreak and acts of hope is the tale of a brutalized people in search of a voice.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

A Taxi Driver

A Taxi Driver is a very good movie, based on a true story, about a taxi driver from Seoul who does what he can to help a foreign photographer documenting what happened to the people involved in the uprising.

Interested? Watch it on Amazon Prime.

Day 13 - Boseong tea fields, Suncheon Drama Film set

Drive over to Boseong tea fields in the morning. If you’re visiting in May, see if you can plan your visit around the annual tea festival. You can walk around the tea fields and even go up for a very nice view of the surrounding area. Don’t forget to sample and buy some tea at the tea museum/store.

If today happens to be the weekday the big Suncheon outdoor market is open (every five days), head over to the market for some snacks. If not, go straight to the Suncheon Drama Film set to walk around reconstructed ‘50’s and ‘70’s streets. You can completely immerse yourself in the film set, but this is also a good opportunity to get both the old way of living and the new way (tall buildings) in one picture.

Day 14 - Yeosu and Dolsando

Go east of Gwangyang and take the long Yi Sun-sin suspension bridge to get a good view of the industrial harbor. The top part of Yeosu is filled with industry. But as you continue southwards you leave the industrial complex behind.

Stop in Yeosu city to have a drink or lunch in a cafe. There are some really nice areas giving you a good view of the harbor and the rooftops.

After a short break, go for a drive around Dolsando to admire the bays, the fishing villages and the land.

Read more: A day trip to Goheung peninsula

Where to eat and drink in Yeosu

In Yeosu you can find many cafes where you can have a drink and relax while taking in the beautiful view of the city. I went to the Rooftop Cafe (낭만카페) and can recommend it for anyone looking for a stop before you continue your road trip around Yeosu and Dolsando.

Various crab dishes like marinated raw blue crab at Naraebabsang.

Day 15 - Gubongsan Observatory and Suncheon Bay National Garden and Wetland Reserve

Drive to Gubongsan Observatory for a nice view over the industrial harbor and the northern part of Yeosu. You can drive all the way to the top, leaving only a few stairs to be climbed or park your car lower at a bigger parking lot to hike the last part.

On your way down make a quick stop at the stone tower and temple on your left side.

From there on drive to the Suncheon Bay National Garden. You can choose to park at the West or East gate, either is fine. The park itself is huge, featuring world gardens. You can walk for hours and still not see it all. It’s also a perfect place to bring a book and just read and relax in one of the many chairs, grass fields and so on. Every part offers a different seat.

Combine a visit to this garden with a visit to the Suncheon Wetland Reserve. I didn’t because I’d already visited wetlands in Gangneung (and my home country is pretty much all wetland), but if you don’t see wetlands every day this is definitely worth a visit. I might go there next time.

Where to stay in Gwangyang

I chose Hotel NOL (previously Hotel JAVA) in Gwangyang because I liked the idea of staying in a place that is less known among tourists and everything else (hotel availability and cost, location) matched what I was looking for. Next trip to that area I will be staying in a traditional house near Boseong. In Gwangyang there are many budget hotels to choose from (to compensate the earlier traditional house stay).

Where to eat in Gwangyang

I ate at three different restaurants in Gwangyang and liked them all very much.

If you’re craving Chicken Ginseng, try Daebok Samgyetang,

For beef bone soup (gomtang) go to 나주곰탕.

For Jjajangmyeon go to 햇찬 (it has a low score from two reviews, but this was the best jjajangmyeon I ate in my visits to South Korea plus they were opened at Whitsun, saving us from convenience store dinner).

Busan - day 16 - 18

Day 16 - Gwangyang to Busan - Tongyeong

Visit Tongyeong and take Hallyeosudo Viewing Ropeway (one of the best in South Korea!) to the top to admire the view of the sea and many small islands. If the sky is clear you can see all the way to Japan. With a small hike (around half an hour) you can reach the summit of Mireuksan and get an even better view. Have lunch at the market in Tongyeong and take a stroll along Gangguan Port to see a full-size replica of a 16th-century wooden warship. Buy some Fresh Honey Baked Bread for a snack or souvenir.

When driving on to Busan from there admire the scenery and the many small islands.

After checking into your hotel in Busan go for dinner at Nampodong shopping street and Biff Square. Eat some Ssiat-heottok (Korean fried pancake stuffed with seeds) as dessert. Depending on the time of your arrival you can also visit Gukje market.

What to eat in Tongyeong

Seafood bibimbap at a restaurant in the harbor of Tongyeong

Buy some Fresh Honey Baked Bread to take with you.

Day 17 - Gyeongju

Gyeongju is often referred to as ‘the museum without walls’, due to the many archaeological sites in the area.

Start with a visit to Gyeongju’s Gyochon Traditional Village to observe some traditional houses. If you visit out of season (and in my case on a Tuesday) many restaurants and attractions will be closed but you can still wander through the streets and watch the hanok houses. Parking tip: park at the parking lot to the left of the village for free parking. You have to pay for parking spaces outside of the lot.

Next to the village, you can find Woljeonggyo Bridge, originally leading to Wolseong palace, a royal palace of the Silla dynasty.

Walk north from the Woljeonggyo Bridge towards Cheomseongdae Observatory, the oldest surviving star-gazing platform in Asia. On your way, you can see Gyeongju Hwangnamdong remains on the left side.

Northwest of Cheomseongdae Observatory, you can visit Daereungwon Tomb Complex to see the Tomb of King-Michu and Cheonmachong. Also interesting here hare the curved trees and fruit trees in the park.

East of Cheomseongdae Observatory you can visit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, the secondary palace used by the crown prince during the Silla period. During the Goryeo and Joseon period, the pond was referred to as Anapji Pond.

A fifteen minutes drive south of this historical site heavy area you can find Seochulji Pond, a site pretty much ignored by tourists and therefore blissfully quiet. The pond is at its best when the lotus flowers in the pond are in full bloom, but even if they are not the pond is worth a visit because of the lay of the land, the trees surrounding the pond and the buildings in the area.

If you have more time you can drive half an hour east to visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.

Alternative option: stay in Busan and visit Busan Citizens Park or Peace Park and go shopping in one of the many malls and shopping areas. This is what I did last year, but on my next trip, I will be visiting Gyeongju and add more tips and information to this itinerary.

Day 18 - Gamcheon cultural village, Haeundae Beach

Visit Gamcheon cultural village in the morning. You can park your car in one of the parking garages nearby. There are some trails you can follow, but it is just as easy to just wander and still see it all. This colorful village is very photogenic so don’t forget to take many pictures.

After your visit to the village, you can either drive over to Haeundae Beach or leave the car at your hotel to take the subway to Haeundae Beach. It all depends on what you want to drink with your meal (and there can be quite a traffic jam in the late afternoon, so the subway is probably more convenient). The area around Haeundae beach has many Western restaurants, but do try the Eel street if you are still craving Korean food after eighteen days.

Where to stay in Busan

I very much enjoyed my stay at Hotel Elysee: the rooms were spacious and the staff was nice. The hotel is located near Nampodong, the train station and a subway station; a very convenient base for exploring the whole city. You can park your car in their garage.

Where to eat in Busan

Fried chicken at Nampo shopping street, with Ssiat-heottok as dessert.

One of the many restaurants serving seafood in the small alley near Haeundae beach.

What to read and watch in Busan

The beginning of Min Jin Lee’s Pachinko is set in Busan and an island below Busan. By reading this book you can get some insight into Busan during the Japanese occupation.

Blood sisters by Kim Yideum takes place in Busan and is one of the clearest recommendations I can give for this city. I really liked the writing style and the references to art, culture and philosophy. I enjoyed this book very much, but it might not be for everyone because of the subjects and thoughts in it.

If you like zombie movies, then definitely see Train to Busan. The main characters are trying to reach Busan to be safe from zombies.

Kim Yideum - Blood Sisters

Blood Sisters tells the story of Jeong Yeoul, a young Korean college student in the 1980’s, when the memory of President Chun Doohwan’s violent suppression of student demonstrations against martial law was still fresh. Yideum captures with raw honesty the sense of dread felt by many Korean women during this time as Jeong struggles in a swirl of misguided desires and hopelessness against a society distorted by competing ideologies, sexual violence, and cultural conservatism. Facing this helplessness, her impulse is to escape into the world of art. Blood Sisters is a vivid, powerful portrayal of a woman’s efforts to live an authentic life in the face of injustice.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Min Jin Lee - Pachinko

In the early 1900s, teenaged Sunja, the adored daughter of a crippled fisherman, falls for a wealthy stranger at the seashore near her home in Korea. He promises her the world, but when she discovers she is pregnant–and that her lover is married–she refuses to be bought. Instead, she accepts an offer of marriage from a gentle, sickly minister passing through on his way to Japan. But her decision to abandon her home, and to reject her son’s powerful father, sets off a dramatic saga that will echo down through the generations.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Train to Busan

Train to Busan is a harrowing zombie horror-thriller that follows a group of terrified passengers fighting their way through a countrywide viral outbreak, trapped on a suspicion-filled, blood-drenched bullet train ride to the Safe Zone…which may or may not still be there.

Interested? Watch it on Amazon Prime.

Jeju - day 19-21

Day 19 - Busan to Jeju - O'sulloc Tea Museum

There are many flights from Busan to Jeju daily, so you can either choose to spend most of the day in Busan or head to Jeju early.

Drop the car off at Busan airport and enjoy the short flight. At Jeju airport, you can pick up your new car and drive over to O’sulloc Tea Museum (open until 7 pm) on the west side of Jeju. If you’re staying in Seogwipo or the western part of the island, this is a very good stop to make on the way to your hotel. However, if you booked a hotel in Jeju city, then explore the city instead and visit the Tea Museum some other time.

Day 20 - Hallasan

Hallasan is the highest mountain in South Korea and quite a challenge to hike. Imagine taking (uneven) stairs for more than three hours straight and then doing the same to go down. But if you make it to the top you are up for a nice view of the island. Plus it’s something you just have to do, right? Beat Hallasan. Try to do this on a clear day, if today is cloudy, do the activities for day 21 instead. If all days are cloudy then climbing Hallasan is still worth it because the area is beautiful enough on its own, even if you can’t see the whole island from the top.

Alternatively: go east and take a walk in Bijarim nutmeg Forest. From there on visit the Manjanggul Cave.

Day 21 - Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, Oedalgae rock, Jusangjeolli Cliff

In the morning head to Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak in the east, also known as Sunrise Peak. Don’t worry about the sunrise part, it’s also beautiful later in the day. Make sure to also visit the female divers after your hike and if you can watch one of the demonstrations.

From there head west past Seogwipo to visit Oedalgae rock and take a walk along the coast.

Next up is Jusangjeolli Cliff, my favorite site on Jeju. The stone pillars of the coast are hexagonal shape and beautiful to see.

Fly home at the end of this day or the next day, depending on what’s most practical for you.

Where to stay in Jeju

You can stay anywhere on the island: everything is within driving distance. I chose Seogwipo because I found a hotel (Artstay Seogwipo Harbor) matching what I was looking for. It felt a bit cheap to me though as the breakfast was mediocre, the two elevators responded to the same button request causing long waiting times and it was really noisy (because of buses full of school kids). So I think you’ll enjoy your stay better at another hotel in Jeju.

What to read in Jeju

The Island of Sea Women by Lisa See is a must-read if you’re planning to visit Sunrise Peak and see the women divers of Jeju. It helps you understand more about their skills but also about their strength in providing for their families under dire circumstances. Set in Jeju during the Japanese occupation it shows you Jeju from the past, including its traditions and ways in which it is different from the mainland of South Korea. It is also very well written and easy to read.

Lisa See - The Island of Sea Women

The Island of Sea Women follows Mi-ja and Young-sook, two girls from very different backgrounds, as they begin working in the sea with their village’s all-female diving collective. Over many decades—through the Japanese colonialism of the 1930s and 1940s, World War II, the Korean War, and the era of cellphones and wet suits for the women divers—Mi-ja and Young-sook develop the closest of bonds. Nevertheless, their differences are impossible to ignore: Mi-ja is the daughter of a Japanese collaborator, forever marking her, and Young-sook was born into a long line of haenyeo and will inherit her mother’s position leading the divers. After hundreds of dives and years of friendship, forces outside their control will push their relationship to the breaking point.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost is an interesting tale set in Jeju (and Hokkaido, Japan for a few pages) showing the imprint the Japanese left on Korean memory. The story isn’t linear, making it hard to follow at times, and the language is perhaps a bit dated, but if you’re interested in the history of that period (1948) it gives some great insight into the thoughts of the people.

Kim Sok-Pom - The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost

“The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost” incorporates Korean folk tales, ghost stories, and myth into a phenomenal depiction of epic tragedy. Written by a “zainichi,” a permanent resident of Japan who is not of Japanese ancestry, the novel tells the story of Mandogi, a young priest living on the island of Jeju-do. Mandogi becomes unwittingly involved in the Four-Three Incident of 1948, in which the South Korean government brutally suppressed an armed peasant uprising and purged Jeju-do of communist sympathizers. Although Mandogi is sentenced to death for his part in the riot, he survives (in a sense) to take revenge on his enemies and fully commit himself to the resistance.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Practical information

Time your Korea visit well

This journey is possible year-round but works best in spring and fall to avoid hot summers and cold winters (driving in the snow).

Tip: if possible, plan your arrival day on a Wednesday or Thursday for an optimal journey. This will help you avoid Jeju on the weekend when the island gets really crowded especially in the busy season. Also, keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays unless you specifically want to join the celebrations.

Transport and navigation

This itinerary uses a rental car to travel between cities and public transport within cities like Seoul and Busan. It is possible to do everything by public transport and cab if you skip some of the visit-while-traveling sights that are too time-consuming to get to without a car.

Navigating in South-Korea is easy. You can use Naver maps (Android / iOS) to find optimal driving and walking routes. When using a car navigation system, search for destinations by entering their telephone number (easy to find with google maps).

You can use either Naver or Google maps to calculate optimal public transport routes.

Estimated costs

The costs depend on your budget. If you choose to use mid-range hotels your journey will be more expensive than when you stay in hostels. Likewise, if you rent a car it matters if you are a solo traveler bearing the costs alone (but lower total costs because the car can be smaller) or travel with family or friends and can share the costs. You can eat in expensive restaurants every day or buy some cup ramyun in a convenience store. Eating out in South Korea is not expensive, but certain meals are, like when you want to eat prime quality abalone or samgyeopsal (pork belly).

The costs listed below are based on comfort, but not too luxurious. By choosing cheaper hotels or motels (still with a private room and personal bathroom) in cities and more expensive traditional houses in rural areas you can adjust the costs as you like and still keep low affordable costs per night average.

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul and from Jeju to your hometown: costs depend on where you live
Flight from Busan to Jeju: from 50 euro (55 USD) per person
Hiring a car for the mainland (16 days), picking it up on Day 4 in Seoul and dropping it off on Day 19 in Busan: around 1200 euro (1318 USD) for a mid-range car (for 3-4 persons), including a one-way fee. This will be cheaper if you travel alone because you can rent a smaller car.
Hiring a car on Jeju (4 days), mid-range car for 3-4 person: 120 euro (132 USD) in total. This will be cheaper if you travel alone because you can rent a smaller car.
Gasoline: around 150 euro (165 USD) in total
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with fare: 20 euro (22 USD) per person

Food

Around 30 euro daily per person for 21 days: 630 euro (692 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 euro daily per person for 21 days based on mid-range hotels: 820 euro (900 USD) per person

Wifi

43 euro (47 USD) in total for 21 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi in can find for many Asian countries.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in May 2018. It cost me around 1920 euro (2109 USD) in total, excluding intercontinental flights. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels, food, flights and a smaller car) the total cost will be much lower.

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