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A perfect harmony of art and architecture at Seosomun Shrine History Museum in Seoul

Kim — Wed, 19 Feb 2020 14:00:00 +0000

A building with an impressive design and brilliant use of space that makes the art on display many times more meaningful. You can see it for yourself at Seosomun Shrine History Museum in Seoul, South Korea.

Seosomun Shrine History Museum (서소문성지 역사박물관) is one of the more impressive museums I have visited because the building and the art complement each other so well. This museum only opened its doors in 2019 and is not well-known, but I assume it will be soon.

The museum is located at the Seosomun Historical Park. From Seoul Train Station or City Hall, it is only a twenty minutes’ walk to the park and museum. You can easily combine a visit to this museum with a visit to Namdaemun or Deoksugung Palace in Seoul.

Seosomun Historical Park

The original Seosomun Park has been renovated to become what is now a very modern park with sculptures and memorials. The Memorial Tower commemorates the martyrs who were executed during the Catholic persecutions. You can also find the sculpture called ‘Homeless Jesus 2013’ that looks very real from a distance.

The use of the landscape and plants make the park into a peaceful place that is good for a quiet walk alone or with a friend. There is something to see in every corner and along every small path.

Seosomun Shrine History Museum (서소문성지 역사박물관)

Underneath the park, you can visit Seosomun Museum: an exhibition space annex shrine, but even more than that it is a beautiful structure with interesting exhibitions.

The entrance of the museum is a few floors below ground level. An elevator can take you there but the best views are from walking down the declining slope that leads you to the golden sculpture in front of the entrance. While the open area in front of the entrance is large and welcomes the light of the sun (if the weather is good), the hallway behind the entrance looks constricted and dark.

This marks the transition from the light-spirited walk in the park to a more serious spiritual place. Once inside you can’t help but notice the high ceiling and brilliant use of materials that make the room feel both spacious and intimate.

The sculptures and artworks are spread around the room and each of them tells a unique story. They tell you more about the history of Korea and humanity. Some of the works on display are on the floor you are at, but through the windows and open spaces, you can also see other works from a very different perspective from when you see them later.

The in-between floor is used for temporary exhibitions. From 1 October 2019 until 29 December 2019 you could see the temporary exhibition Otchil and Korean Mother-of-pearl: Bridging a Thousand Years.

From the floor with the temporary exhibition, you have a good high-level view of the ‘cube’ that marks the entrance of the Consolation Hall.

You can take the central stairs to go to a lower level or take the declining slope towards the Memorial Chapel and Consolation Hall built in the middle of the museum. All at once you enter a place of meditation. The ceiling is lower when you pass the threshold to reveal a very spacious Consolation Hall with different lighting. You can take a seat to spend some quiet minutes while admiring the architecture of the building around you.

From the meditation hall, you can see 24 doors that lead to Heaven Square. All at once you’re outside again in a big square courtyard with 44 Martyrs facing you. They’re only made of raw wood, but they have a very human feel to them, these ‘People on Feet’. It doesn’t feel right to stand opposite them and face them, so you will end up walking among them and taking a stand beside them.

Next to the courtyard, there is an almost hidden door that leads to an illuminated (with natural light) hallway with stones. When you walk up the slope you yourself become part of the exhibition as the light plays with your shadow.

The lowest floor offers another spectacular sight: the ceiling arches. While you look at the books and papers (religious and historical documents) on display the ceiling demands your attention.

What’s so impressive about this whole museum is that every room is very different and optimized for its use. The art and papers on display on this level fit the ‘crypt’ feeling the ceiling gives to the room. When I walk between the men with bowed heads down I feel like contemplating as well and when I look at the faces on the wall I almost get sentimental. The height of the ceiling in the alcoves and the use of natural or artificial light intensifies the meaning of the artworks.

This was also the case in the Consolation Hall, with the lowered ceiling obscuring your vision of what is going on inside and the open sky above the People on Feet in the courtyard allowing you to see daylight.

How to get to Seosomun Shrine History Museum

You can walk to Seosomun Shrine History Museum in twenty minutes from City Hall or Seoul Train Station. There are many bus stops nearby that can take you to your next destination after your visit.

Location: 5 Chilpae-ro, Jungnim-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea

Opening hours and tickets

Tuesday – Sunday: 9:30 – 17:30

Free admission.

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Dive into the future at Samsung d’light in Seoul

Kim — Wed, 22 Jan 2020 15:00:00 +0000

For everyone who loves technology, Samsung d’light is a great interactive experience in the Gangnam neighborhood in Seoul, South Korea.

You will learn more about future possibilities, including smart homes, while experiencing how much fun the future can be. This is a great stop for anyone who loves technology, and also a great option on a rainy day. I enjoyed my visit to Samsung d’light very much.

First floor (ground level)

Step into the future and see some of Samsung’s most innovative technologies on the first floor. You will receive your very own Samsung d’light band and start your journey to find out more about your place in this new world.

This first floor is about you. You sync your d’light band with the Samsung systems to create your character and move to the first room to find your inner unique emotions. What moves you?

The next room is about Sense: find your hidden senses and use the mirror to create interesting pictures of yourself and others.

While exploring your intuition you can create your own world: do you like it smooth or chunky, big or small? What world would you like to live in? Imagine your future with endless possibilities and make it happen.

I am very happy with my result:

You can share your journey with the world and explore Samsung’s latest products in the middle of the hall. It is always fun to play around with new technology: if only I had the funds and a bigger home. I already own a Samsung phone and a fridge.

But your journey is not over yet: move on to the second floor for more.

Second floor

The second floor is about smart homes. See if you can walk around imagining the future you will live in.

Technology will aid you in every single way, but only if you want it to. It can help you decide what to wear, support cooking and create a relaxing home environment.

At schools, digital learning will become more prominent. It can make learning more fun as it can create tailor-made experiences.

The future of shopping will make big impact as well. This is good for shops that master the technology, but perhaps not so good for you as a customer. You will get suggestions that make your shopping experience go more smoothly. At the same time, you might end up buying things you don’t need.

With smartphones and other devices, you can keep track of your health status. There will be no more reason to slack with numerous free exercise apps.

Basement

In the basement, you can shop for Samsung products. It is probably cheaper to buy elsewhere, but the store and the showrooms on the first and second floor combined nicely show what’s available.

How to get to Samsung d’light in Seoul

Samsung d’light is only a few minutes’ walk from Gangnam subway station (exit 8) on the green line. The entrance to the exhibition area is on the side of the building furthest away from the subway station: look for the blueish entry doors. The other entrances and buildings are for employees.

Address: Samsung D’light, Samsung Electronics BD, 11, Seocho-Daero 74-Gil, Seocho-Gu, Seoul, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Monday – Saturday 10:00 – 19:00.

Check their website for closing days.

Tickets

Free admission

Alternatives for a touristy Korean DMZ… or the swine flu

Kim — Mon, 06 Jan 2020 15:00:00 +0000

Are you looking for a less touristy visit to the Korean DMZ (Demilitarized Zone)? Then visit Ganghwa Peace Observatory and Eulji Observatory.

Update January 2020 Since October 2019 there has been an outbreak of African Swine Flu along the South Korean border with North Korea. Because of this, it is not possible to visit the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) near Paju that is the most popular tourist destination as a day trip from Seoul. But no need to despair: there are interesting alternatives.

On my visits to South Korea, I visited the alternatives to the Paju DMZ, so I can tell you all about them. For me this was a conscious choice: there was no swine flu outbreak at that time and I chose to visit the lesser-known DMZ sites because they appealed to me more.

I visited all sites (except Goseong Observatory) on my own by car, but it is also possible to join an organized tour to the Korean DMZ.

Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links and if you go through them to make a purchase I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

What is the Korean DMZ?

The Korean DMZ, or Korean Demilitarized Zone, is a strip of uninhabited land dividing South Korea and North Korea.

The DMZ is guarded by soldiers on both sides and you are not allowed to cross. Along the 250 kilometers long border, you can visit some of the observatories or old infiltration tunnels to get some insights into the history of the Korean War and at the same time learn more about the current tension between two countries that were formerly one.

1a) Most popular: DMZ near Paju

The most popular DMZ to visit is the one near Paju. This is where all the tourists go. You can easily visit this site as a day trip from Seoul as part of a tour via GetYourGuide or Klook.

Things to see

Imjingak Park with many war monuments and military statues
Freedom Bridge and the old steam train
National Memorial Hall of the Korean War Abductees
3rd Infiltration Tunnel: the invasion route lying between the border of North and South Korea
Panmunjom
Panoramic views of North Korea from Dora Observatory tower
Another view of North Korea from Odusan Unification Tower

1b) While Paju DMZ is closed...

You can’t visit the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel or Panmunjom at the moment because of the African Swine Flu outbreak, but you can still visit Imjingak Park, the Freedom Bridge and many memorial sites in the area.

The tour operators also offer alternative tours to Imjingak Park or even Ganghwa Peace Observatory.

Near the Paju DMZ, you can still visit the following sites.

Imjingak Nuri Peace park

At this park, you can see sculptures and other works of art symbolizing (a wish for) peace.

Location

148-40 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Always open

National Memorial Hall of the Korean War Abductees

Cross the road from Imjingak Nuri Peace Park to visit the War Memorial Museum. Inside the building, you can visit the exhibition “Last Family Portraits” showing the pain of families separated by the border between North and South Korea. Many pictures and testimonials stare at you and show the heartbrokenness of mothers and sons and fathers and daughters.

Outside you can stroll past the statues commemorating the loses suffered by many countries during the war.

Location

153 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Tuesday – Sunday: 9:30 – 17:30

Freedom Bridge

Walking past the Memorial Hall and the statues you reach the Freedom Bridge with the blockade at the end.

Location

Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Old steam train

Near the Freedom Bridge, you get to see an old Steam Train in front of the Beat 131 art exhibition area.

Location

Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea

How to get to Imjingak Park?

By car from Seoul

From City Hall in Seoul (near Myeongdong / Gyeongbokgung Palace) you can drive to Imjingak Park in one hour (without traffic jams).

By bus from Seoul

Take the subway from City Hall in Seoul to Hapjeong subway station. From Hapjeong subway station you can take a direct bus to Imjingak Park. The journey from City Hall takes an hour and a half.

Join a DMZ tour from Seoul

You can also join a DMZ tour organized by GetYourGuide or Klook and have everything taken care of. Besides the sites mentioned above, you will visit many more interesting places along the way.

2) DMZ at Ganghwa Island

West of Seoul lies Ganghwa Island; a very popular getaway destination for people living in Seoul. At the northern tip of this island, you can visit Ganghwa Peace Observatory.

The site at Ganghwa lies north of the Civilian Passage Restriction Line at Cheolsan-ri in Yangsa-myeon and has only been open to the public since 2008. As you pass the security area you get a visitor pass for your car that you have to return to the same army post after your visit. When I got there the soldiers were very excited to see some foreigners while trying to determine which of them was most confident speaking English.

As you drive further north, the area gets more desolate and the security gets tighter. Your route is guided by barbed wire to your right. You really feel like you’re crossing some border, even though a visit to this DMZ (in the form of a river) feels like a relaxing adventure when you drive on small roads surrounded by rice fields and farms.

Ganghwa Peace Observatory is not like the DMZ near Paju: there is no Infiltration Tunnel to explore nor can you see the security area. You can get very close to North Korea though and watch the other side using the binoculars at the observatory.

Ganghwa Peace Observatory

The first things you see when walking to the observatory from the parking lot are the painted tanks. The colors almost disguise the seriousness of this weapon.

You can watch North Korea using the binoculars at the observatory and see the unique cultural ecosystem of North Korea that you can’t see from other DMZ sites in South Korea. If you look down you can see the artillery aimed at the border between the north and the south. Inside the building, you can add your wish for peace to those already hanging on the artificial tree.

If you head left after leaving the Observatory building you see the statue iconic for this DMZ with music playing in the background.

Location

산6-1 Cheolsan-ri, Yangsa-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

9:00 – 18:00 every day

How to get to Ganghwa Peace Observatory

By car from Seoul

You can drive to Ganghwa Peace Observatory from Seoul in about an hour and fifteen minutes. Check out my South Korea itinerary for more places to visit on Ganghwa Island.

By bus from Seoul

It takes about two hours (depending on where you’re staying) to get from Seoul to the Ganghwa Observatory by bus. You have to take two or three different buses but they will get you all the way (and you can get off and stop at other sights as well!). Check out my South Korea itinerary for more things to do on Ganghwa Island.

Join a DMZ tour from Seoul

GetYourGuide and Klook currently offer a trip to Ganghwa Peace Observatory as an alternative to the regular tour to Paju DMZ because of the Swine Flu.

3) DMZ at Gyodong Island

West of Ganghwa Island lies the smaller island Gyodong. The observatory on Gyodong Island is a really small site to visit (meaning two binoculars in the wild) but it is not that far from Ganghwa Island.

Only visit this one if you are visiting Gyodong Island anyway; it is not worth a visit on its own. You can read more about things to do on Gyodong Island in my South Korea itinerary.

Gyodong Observatory

At the Gyodong Observatory, you can use one of the two binoculars to look at North Korea. This is the most private DMZ experience you can get.

You can park your car at the small parking lot and walk in ten seconds to the top of the hill where you can find two binoculars and a few memorial stones and that’s it.

It is kinda underwhelming, but at the same time has its charm because you have to drive to the middle of nowhere to get there. The road to the observatory leads you on small roads through tiny villages surrounded by farm fields.

I added Gyodong Observatory to this list because you can’t find much information about it online. At least now you know what to expect! I don’t regret going there at all. It was an interesting experience.

Location

Jiseok-ri, Gyodong-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

Always open

How to get to Gyodong Observatory

By car from Seoul

You can drive to Gyodong Observatory from Seoul in about an hour and a half. When passing the bridge from Ganghwa Island to Gyodong Island you pass a military guard post and receive a visitor pass just like you do when visiting Ganghwa Peace Observatory.

Check out my South Korea itinerary for more things to do on Gyodong Island.

4) DMZ at Yanggu

Eulji Observatory is a DMZ on the eastern side of South Korea. A visit to this observatory is more convenient as a day trip from Chuncheon or Sokcho than from Seoul.

The Observatory is located at the ridge of Gachilbong Peak at only 1km from the DMZ. What makes this one more interesting than other DMZs is that there is also an infiltration tunnel to explore and a ‘Punchbowl’ (Haean basin) with a nice view of the surrounding area to visit.

This is the DMZ visit I liked best because of its location in a mountain area.

Yanggu Unification Hall

Before you can visit the tunnel you need to stop by Unification Hall to register your visit. They will give you a blue paper for access to Eulji Observatory and a yellow and pink paper for the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Make sure you don’t hand in your yellow or pink paper at Eulji Observatory (that happened to us: the soldier at the guard post wouldn’t let us leave with our yellow paper) or you’ll have to get a new one at the Unification Hall before visiting the Tunnel.

In the Unification Hall, you can find Exhibitions and an Agricultural Speciality Market. Also nearby is a War Memorial Museum.

Location

720 Hu-ri, Haean-myeon, Yanggu-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

March – October: 9:00 – 18:00;
November – February: 9:00 – 17:00.

The last admission time is one hour before closing. You’re not allowed to enter the 4th Infiltration Tunnel during lunchtime (12:00 – 13:00). Keep in mind that times may change and the tunnel might close because of the weather (like a tornado; this happened to me but luckily I checked the website the day before and could change my itinerary).

Eulji Observatory

At the observatory, you can watch the DMZ in a mountainous area. You can see the wall and guard posts going up and down the mountain slopes as far as you can look.

Eulji Observatory is a 7km (15 – 20 minutes) drive from the Unification Hall. After visiting the Observatory and Haean basin, you have to drive the same way back to the rotund near the Unification Hall and take the other road to the 4th Infiltration Tunnel.

Haean basin (punch bowl)

Outside the observatory, you can gaze over Haean Basin, also called the “Punch Bowl”.

4th Infiltration Tunnel

The 4th Infiltration Tunnel is a 4km (10 minutes) drive from Unification Hall.

You can walk into the tunnel and take a short train ride (less than a minute) into the North Korean side of the tunnel. Don’t do this if you are claustrophobic, because the tunnel gets really small.

At the point where the South Korean part of the tunnel and the North Korean part intersect you can see the difference in creation. Whereas the South used advanced tools (after calculating where to intersect) to create a smooth tunnel, the North Koreans used small explosions to create their tiny and chunky tunnel.

I can’t imagine being one of the people having to create a tunnel like this for days on end.

How to get to Eulji Observatory

A visit to the observatory and tunnel is only possible by car or organized tour; no bicycles or motorcycles allowed.

By car from Sokcho, Chuncheon or Seoul

You can drive to the Unification hall in about an hour from Sokcho, an hour and twenty minutes from Chuncheon or two and a half hours from Seoul. Find out other stops to make during this day trip in my South Korea Itinerary.

Join a DMZ tour

Yanggu County organizes tours to Eulji Observatory and the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Not much information is available online, but you can find their contact information here. The pamphlet I got in October 2019 lists +82 033-253-4567 as the phone number for the Yanggu City Tour.

5) DMZ at Goseong Unification Observatory

North of Sokcho, a city on the east coast of South Korea, you can visit Goseong Unification Observatory and the DMZ museum for a peek into North Korea. It is easy to reach by car, but not so easy otherwise. Compared to the DMZ near Paju, this is a very quiet and desolate place. But if you’re looking for a less touristy border experience, then Goseong is a good option.

I didn’t visit this DMZ, so I can’t share any personal experiences.

Location

일전망대로 457, Hyeonnae-myeon, Goseong-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea (Google Maps)

Opening hours

From 09:00 with a final departure time from the security point of 15:50 in winter, 16:20 in spring and fall and 17:30 in summer.

How to get to Goseong Unification Observatory

By car from Sokcho

You can drive to Goseong Unification Observatory in about an hour.

Join a DMZ tour

Trazy organizes a combined tour to Seoraksan National Park and Goseong Unification Observatory.

The post Alternatives for a touristy Korean DMZ… or the swine flu appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Christmas Concerts in Seoul and Online 2020

Kim — Wed, 20 Nov 2019 15:00:00 +0000

How better to spend Christmas in Seoul than to visit a concert of your favorite Korean artist? Christmas is special in many ways and concerts embracing the spirit of Christmas only add to that.

I went to Jaurim on Christmas eve and Roy Kim on Christmas Day in 2017. It is a lot of fun going at Christmas as they sing Korean Christmas songs (time to start practicing the lyrics!).

If you’re planning to spend Christmas or New Year in Seoul, then this list is for you.

New in 2020: because of the coronavirus there won’t be as many concerts in Seoul in 2020. Instead, there will be more online concerts and I will include a selection of those. While online concerts can’t provide a ‘full experience’ they are accessible anywhere in the world!

LIVENow is a platform that offers live concerts throughout the year, like the Mamamoo concert on 1 May 2021.

Christmas Concerts in Seoul and Online 2020
How to buy concert tickets in Seoul
Interesting facts about concerts in Seoul
Other things to do during Christmas in Seoul

Christmas Concerts in Seoul en Online 2020

Below I listed some of the concerts happening in Seoul and online from late November 2020 until the end of the year. As there are many, I have not included all of them, but only a selection of those I think are best known internationally. Also, keep in mind that new concerts may be added anytime and Interpark is not the only distributor of tickets; some concerts are sold exclusively through other distributors. As we get nearer to Christmas the availability and details of the concerts might change.

THE BOYZ, VERIVERY, N.CUS

Dates: 21 November 2020

Concert: Joy-Angel Concert 2nd: THE BOYZ, VERIVERY, NCUS

Venue: Online concert

Ticket price: 25,000 Korean Won

Kim Junsu

Dates: 21 – 22 November 2020

Concert: 2020 XIA ONLINE CONCERT ‘Pit A Pat’

Venue: Online concert

Ticket price: 85,000 Korean Won

Oh My Girl

Dates: 22 November 2020

Concert: 2020 OH MY GIRL ONLINE CONCERT [Winter fairy tale: The Lost Memory]

Venue: Online concert

Ticket price: 39,000 – 49,000 Korean Won

NU'EST Fan Meeting

Dates: 28 November 2020

Concert: 2020 NU’EST FAN MEETING 〈L.O.Λ.E PAGE〉 – ONLINE

Venue: Online concert

Ticket price: 33,000 Korean Won

Pentagon

Date: 29 November 2020

Concert: 2020 PENTAGON ONLINE CONCERT ［WE L:VE］ – ONLINE CONCERT TICKET

Venue: Online concert

Ticket price: 39,000 Korean Won

THE BOYZ Fan-Con

Dates: 4 – 5 December 2020

Concert: THE BOYZ FAN-CON 〈THE FILM FESTIVAL〉- 온라인 티켓 (2일권)

Venue: Online concert

Ticket price: 63,000 Korean Won

AB6IX, VICTON, Lee Jin Hyuk, Dreamcatcher, A.C.E.

Dates: 12 December 2020 Concert: 2020 ALL THE K-POP with Mixchannel Venue: Online concert Ticket price: 33,000 Korean Won

몽니 (MONNI)

Dates: 18 December 2020

Concert: 2020 MONNI Concert ［MONNI and Winter］

Venue: COEX Auditorium, Seoul

Ticket price: 88,000 Korean Won

K-Pop Music Awards and K-Drama Awards

Dates: 19 – 20 December 2020 Concert: APAN 2020 Online Venue: Online Ticket price: 11,200 Korean Won for a two day pass

노리플라이 (no reply)

Dates: 23 December 2020

Concert: 노리플라이 콘서트 ［나의 겨울］

Venue: COEX Auditorium, Seoul

Ticket price: 88,000 Korean Won

짙은 (zitten)

Dates: 24 December 2020

Concert: Zitten Concert ［Zitten, Winter］ – Winter Festa 2020

Venue: COEX Auditorium, Seoul

Ticket price: 88,000 Korean Won

Kim NaYoung

Dates: 25 – 26 December 2020

Concert: Kim NaYoung Concert ［As winter passes and spring comes］ – Winter Festa 2020

Venue: COEX Auditorium, Seoul

Ticket price: 99,000 Korean Won

스탠딩에그 (Standing EGG)

Dates: 27 December 2020

Concert: Standing Egg Concert ［Time goes by］ – Winter Festa 2020

Venue: COEX Auditorium, Seoul

Ticket price: 88,000 – 99,000 Korean Won

Blackpink

Dates: 27 December 2020 Concert: The Show Venue: Online on YouTube Ticket price: 29.99 EUR for 1-month access to the Blackpink YouTube channel

Find more concerts at the Global Interpark website. You can also find concerts in other cities here.

How to buy concert tickets in Seoul?

I found Interpark the easiest website for a foreigner without a Korean bank account, address or phone number. Small note about the ticket price: the ticket price in Seoul is far higher than in my country, but then again, if they don’t come to us, then we have to go to them, right?

Buying tickets is easy via the Global Interpark website as long as you have a credit card (not AMEX).

Global Interpark step-by-step

Log in or create an account. Registering is easy via your Social Media account.

2. Select the concert you want to attend

3. Select the concert date

4. Spam check

5. Select your seating area

6. Select your seat

7. List the number of tickets you want

8. Enter your contact details

9. Select a payment method

10. Enter your payment details

The delivery method is automatically set to “pick up at venue”. Just bring the printed confirmation (or show it on your phone) to the venue. When you arrive at the venue, look for the table or desk with a sign saying “인터파크” (Interpark) to swap your confirmation for a ticket. It is advisable to also carry the credit card you used to make the booking with you, as the website says you should. They didn’t ask to see mine though.

It all went very smoothly for me. It was never very clear when you can actually enter the hall (VIPs enter early) but when all the Koreans get up and start moving, that would be a good moment to head for the hall.

Interesting facts about concerts in Seoul

Korean people are very disciplined. The following goes for the smaller venues like BLUE SQUARE IMARKET HALL in Hannam and Yonsei University Grand Hall in Hongdae. It’s different for big stadium concerts.

You’re not allowed to take pictures or videos during the concert. Venue staff will walk around to tell you off when you get your phone out. Nearly everybody obeys that. At the end of the concert, there will be a special photo moment and the artists pose for you.
The audience sits down and stands up only when the artists asks them to.
When the artist asks for silence, for example when speaking or starting a new song, it is completely silent.
You only sing-along for the fan chants, not for other parts of the song.

I have to say the no pictures and videos part was very pleasant. There are no phones held up high obscuring your view nor are you yourself distracted by shooting a good clip to share with your friends.

Also read: Best Korean books with an English translation

Other things to do during Christmas in Seoul

The temperature in Seoul lies around or below zero degrees celsius at the end of December. So it is rather cold outside, but on the plus side: the sky is usually clear and the sun shines a lot. Much better than the gray and drizzly weather in my country. So pack warm clothes but also use layers so you can take something off when entering shops and extremely hot department stores. The best thing about Christmas in Seoul: no matter the weather, everyone is outside. So it is very easy to join the Christmas celebrations as a tourist.

Cheonggyecheon Stream

Cheonggyecheon stream is a very popular place for a stroll among Koreans. Many TV drama scenes were filmed here as well.

Location: 20-2 Myeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul

COEX Mall

Go shopping at Gangnam’s COEX Mall and see the Christmas tree at the beautiful Starfield Library in the middle of the mall.

Location: 513 Yeongdong-daero, Samseong 1(il)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Christmas market in Sinchon

Visit the Christmas market around Sinchon subway station and listen to live music. Join the Koreans and take pictures with card board Santa, Christmas wreaths and many other decorations in the street.

Location: 31-11 Nogosan-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (near Sinchon Subway Station on the green line)
Date: usually 22 – 25 December from 13:00 until 20:00.

Shinsegae Department store

Watch the beautiful light show at Shinsegae Department Store. I spent more than ten minutes watching it from various sides.

Location: 63 Sogong-ro, Myeongdong, Seoul

City Hall

Go ice skating in front of City Hall.

Location: 110 Sejong-daero, Myeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul

Read more: 11 Ways to Spend Your Day in Seoul

The post Christmas Concerts in Seoul and Online 2020 appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Daelim Museum in Seoul is “Serious Fun”

Kim — Mon, 04 Nov 2019 15:37:34 +0000

Let’s talk about Daelim Museum in Seoul, South Korea: a museum with interesting exhibitions from inspiring artists who make their art come to life in the rooms of the museum. The current exhibition, “Serious Fun” by Jaime Hayon, is, as the title suggests, a very playful exhibition that makes it an interesting stop for adults and children both.

You can find Daelim Museum to the left of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, right in the middle of Seochon Hanok village in Tongui-dong. Its vision is to function as a museum where the everyday becomes art, hence the quote “Daelim Museum leads a ‘Lifestyle’ with art”.

Their exhibitions express that vision by suggesting new types of lifestyle, encouraging the public to enjoy art within everyday life and by bringing new value and interest to objects that surround them.

The building, designed by architect Vincent Cornu, is perfect for exhibitions like this: it has many uniquely shaped rooms providing open space the art can play with and the architect used traditional Korean textile patterns as inspiration for the stained-glass windows. From the balcony on the 4th floor, you can see Mount Bukhansan and Mount Ingwansan.

A very good mix of modern and traditional that makes the building an artwork of its own while respecting Korean culture and the landscape of the city of Seoul.

Daelim Museum’s vision is also clearly visible in the Serious Fun exhibition by Jaime Hayon that can be seen from April 27 until December 29, 2019. As the title of the exhibition suggests, it is a very playful exhibition where you feel like you’re transported to a magical world where everything is bigger than you.

You become Alice in Wonderland in front of a big white chair with minimal use of color in the room, or Ron Weasley when entering a room with large chess pieces surrounded by mirrors. Jaime Hayon uses design, furniture, sculpture, sketches, and large-scale installations to share his unique and intriguing perspective of the world.

To quote from the introduction of the exhibition: “In Jaime Hayon’s world, the objects have souls and forevermore speak to us through their own visual language. Through them, we are reminded of imaginary friends from childhood who once kept our side and spoke to our inner soul. Growing up and being submerged in reality perhaps we have forgotten our soul mates and inevitably neglected their stories. “Jaime Hayon: Serious Fun” recalls our imaginary friend, who has long waited to be remembered, and rekindles fantasy in our daily lives in bringing happiness and joy.”

I enjoyed my visit to this museum very much and if the next exhibitions are as interesting as this one, then I definitely recommend a visit. And that’s something, coming from someone who doesn’t go to museums often. The current exhibition is almost over (you can still make it!) but stay tuned for the next one as it is bound to be interesting as well.

You can combine a visit to Daelim Museum with a visit to Seochon Hanok Village. This Hanok Village, on the left side of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, is not as extensive as Bukchon Hanok Village, but it is far less crowded and also offers historical houses, traditional Korean tea houses and museums.

When exploring the narrow streets you come across many more museums, traditional houses and art galleries you can visit. Keep in mind that many museums and galleries, like Daelim Museum, are closed on Mondays. Find out more about things to do in Seoul in my Seoul 7 Days Itinerary.

Opening hours: Thursday and Saturday: 10:00 – 20:00; Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday: 10:00 – 19:00. Daelim Museum on Google Maps. You can find more information on the current exhibition on the website of Daelim Museum, Seoul.

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5 Cafes in Seoul with a Mountain View

Kim — Wed, 30 Oct 2019 16:00:58 +0000

Find out about the most interesting cafes to visit in Seoul. Take your pick: mountain view, city view or tranquility away from the bustling city of Seoul.

Seoul is a city with many different sights: it has mountains, skyscrapers, traditional houses, parks and many more. In every neighborhood in Seoul, you can find a great number of interesting cafes. But the most beautiful are those at the outskirts of the city (or a little bit beyond), offering a view of one of the many mountains within the borders of Seoul or of the city itself. Below you can find more about the most interesting cafes to visit in Seoul.

1) Pointvill Cafe (포인트빌)

The number one spot goes to Pointvill Cafe in Goyang, near Seoul. This cafe has it all:

a view of Bukhan mountain
a great indoor environment
big grounds with plenty of tables outside offering a private spot to everyone
a nice garden
peaceful atmosphere
interesting drinks and a good bakery (the drinks are a little on the expensive side, but well worth it considering you get to spend as much time in the garden as you want).

Technically, Pointvill Cafe is not within the borders of Seoul, but it is very close and can be reached within 50 minutes by car (ample parking spots available) or an hour and fifteen minutes by bus from City Hall. If you’re looking for a relaxing day, bring a book and hop on the bus to this cafe.

When I visited this cafe on a Thursday afternoon in October, almost all indoor tables were taken and many of the tables outside as well. Many people spend at least two hours there, meeting up with friends and taking a walk in the garden.

Opening hours: 11:00 – 21:00; closed on Sundays.

Address: 473-90, Bukhansan-ro, Deogyang-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do (Zip Code)10580. Or in Korean: 경기 고양시 덕양구 북한산로 473-90 (우)10580. You can find this cafe on KakaoMap, but not on Google Maps.

2) Yeonjiwon Traditional Tea House (연지원)

Yeonjiwon is the traditional tea house at Jingwansa temple on the northern side of Seoul; very close to Pointvill cafe actually. Jingwansan is one of the four major temples in Seoul. This temple is a nice getaway from the busy city of Seoul and a good place to spend the day. When visiting the temple and temple grounds nothing indicates there is a 17 million people major city nearby.

You can combine a visit to this cafe with a hike in Bukhansan, a visit to Eunpyeong Hanok Village or simply enjoy the mountain view from the cafe.

The traditional tea house is in the middle of the temple grounds and offers traditional Korean teas, but there is also Americano and a leaf tea on the menu. For snacks, they have rice crackers and honey bread (the cake type, not the white bread toasted with honey).

Jingwansa is open year-round.

Address: 서울 은평구 진관길 73 (우)03308. English address of Jingwansa: 73 Jingwan-gil, Jingwan-dong, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, Zuid-Korea.

The temple is easy to reach by bus and for those with a car: there is a big parking lot just in front of the entrance. It takes about 40 minutes by car or in 55 minutes by bus from City Hall.

3) Sanmotoonge Cafe (산모퉁이)

Sanmotoonge is probably the best-known cafe to visit in Seoul on this list, as it was featured in the Korean TV drama Coffee Prince. The cafe is quite popular among Koreans as well. Even though it is a ‘tourist spot’ and therefore less of a quiet getaway from the city, the view makes up for the popularity.

Inside the cafe, you can find many spots to sit, some of them in a room away from the counter offering more privacy. On the terrace, you can see a mountain on the left side with a stone wall and border security houses climbing the slope. On the right, you have a nice view of the neighborhood Buam. Coffee Prince fans will also appreciate the two stone horses on the terrace.

You can take a bus to Buam-dong and get off at Changuimun Gate. From there, walk up the hill to reach the cafe. Along the way, you pass many museums and other cafes. If you come by car: parking near the cafe may seem like quite a challenge but is rather easy if you take a hint from other cars parked on the side of the road. Just make sure it is not a numbered parking spot. It takes about half an hour by bus or twenty minutes by car.

Opening hours: 11:00 – 22:00

Address: 153 Baekseokdong-gil, Buam-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Zuid-Korea. Korean: 서울 종로구 백석동길 153 (우)03020.

4) The Piano (더피아노)

There are many reasons this cafe in Seoul’s Pyeongchang neighborhood is an interesting place to visit:

it is built against the mountain and has a rock garden
big garden with many tables offering a private spot for everyone
Seoul city view
peaceful atmosphere
see how the other half lives

To start with the last point: if you have ever watched a K-Drama then you’ll recognize Pyeongchang immediately as the place where the rich families live. It has big houses with huge gates in front of it. A walk through the neighborhood is worth a visit on its own. Simply a must-see for Korean drama lovers. If you have seen the Liar and his Lover, then you’ll recognize The Piano as the dorm the boyband Crude Play was living in.

This is also evident in the clientele of The Piano: the cafe seems to be a good place to meet friends for a chat in the middle of the day. When I ordered my drinks at the counter, the waitress gave me a very surprised look and asked me how the hell I found this cafe (in very polite English of course, I’m simply expressing the surprise).

The cafe is built directly against the mountain and from the counter you follow a path along the rocks to reach the garden and enjoy a nice view of the surrounding area.

Unfortunately, the price for drinks is rather high (14k Korean won-ish) as they include a fee for entering the property. If you can see your visit to this cafe built against one of Seoul’s most famous mountains as visiting a tourist attraction, then the price becomes less of an issue. For snacks, they have home-made cookies.

Opening hours: 10:00 – 19:00; closed on Wednesdays.

Address: 서울 종로구 평창6길 71 (우)03003.

You can reach the cafe by bus from City Hall in 45 minutes (including a 15-minute walk uphill) or in half an hour by car. If you come by car you can use one of the ~5 parking spots available. Fortunately for me, a parking spot was available for me when I got there as I didn’t see any other parking spots along the way.

5) Myeonggeumtang (명금탕)

The last cafe to visit in Seoul is located very near Jingwansa temple cafe and Pointvill Cafe. You can find it in the newly constructed Eunpyeong Hanok Village, with a Twosome Place and CU right next to it. From the terrace, but also from some of the tables inside this tea house you have a nice view of Seoul’s Bukhansan National Park.

I put this one last because I favor the bigger outside areas of the other four cafes when spending a day away from the busier neighborhoods of Seoul. When it comes to the menu though, this one comes first for me. Besides the more common traditional Korean teas, it also offers Pu’er, Oolong, White Tea and many other teas from leaves and flowers. So for those wanting a less fruit-tea like drinking experience, this is the cafe to visit in Seoul.

As a side menu, it has a variety of rice cake snacks like the ones in the picture above: 기정떡 (rice cake) and 치즈가래떡 (rice cake bars with cheese and honey).

Opening hours: 10:00 – 21:30.

Address: 서울 은평구 진관길 5 1층 (우)03308.

Eungpyeong Hanok Village and this traditional tea house can be reached in 40 minutes by car or 55 minutes by bus from City Hall. You can park at the Jingwansa temple parking lot or in the village itself if it is not too busy.

Looking for a place to stay in Seoul?

I can recommend two of the hotels I stayed at during my trips to Seoul: Travelodge Myeongdong City Hall (best for first time travellers) and Best Western Premier Hotel Gangnam (if you want to spend more time in the Gangnam area and other neighbourhoods south of the river).

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Top things to do in Seoul

Kim — Mon, 14 Oct 2019 13:30:20 +0000

Visit Seoul, the capital of South Korea and explore its many neighborhoods. Find out about things to do and the must-see spots on your Seoul trip.

The things to do in Seoul are ordered based on location and follow the Seoul 7 days itinerary I did on my first visit to Seoul. This list is perfect for first-time visitors because it contains all the must-see places.

For second or third time visitors to Seoul: check out the four bonus days in my Seoul 7 days itinerary to read more about Gangdong, Hanam, Pyeongchang, Buam, Eunpyeong, Goyang, Seochon Hanok Village and Seosomun Shrine History Museum.

Practical information

When to visit Seoul

A visit to Seoul is possible year-round, though you might want to avoid the hot summer. Keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays unless you specifically want to join in the celebrations.

My first time in Seoul was over Christmas, visiting concerts, Sinchon Christmas Market and watching the big lit tree in front of City Hall.

Transport and navigation

Navigating in South-Korea is easy. You can use Naver map (Android / iOS) to find optimal walking routes and either Naver or Google maps to calculate optimal public transport routes. It is possible to go by car, but it is not necessary as public transport is really convenient.

Where to stay in Seoul

Seoul has many hotels. You can stay in any of the neighborhoods and explore the city from there. When depending on public transport I always look for hotels situated near important subway stations or bus hubs so I can explore the whole city with ease.

For first time visitors, I recommend staying near City Hall, as it has two important subway lines nearby and Seoul Train Station is within walking distance. At night you can explore the vibrant area of Myeongdong for entertainment.

My recommendation is Travelodge Myeongdong City Hall: a very good location near City Hall, not expensive and clean and big enough rooms. There is a spa in the hotel, but it is for men only. I stayed in this hotel for one week over Christmas and I would stay here again if I was looking for a hotel near City Hall.

For my second visit, I stayed in Gangnam to experience another neighborhood. I chose to stay in Gangnam this time because it is in the southeastern part of the city and I wanted to drive east after picking up my rental car. Plus I was looking for a hotel within walking distance from one of the car rental offices for easy pick-up.

If you want to stay in Gangnam I recommend Best Western Premier Hotel Gangnam. It is at a walking distance from two useful subway lines connecting you to the northern part of the city: Sinnonhyeon subway station (also a very useful bus hub) and Gangnam subway station, which makes it a very good starting location for exploring the city. The hotel service is good, the rooms are big enough and affordable.

What to read when visiting Seoul

Find out about the best Korean books to read before your visit to South Korea.

Things to do in Seoul

Below I’ve listed the must-see places in Seoul combined with some of my favorites during my visits to Seoul. Check out my Seoul 7 days itinerary for a good way to visit all the highlights in a week.

Please always check official sources for up-to-date opening hours.

In this map of Seoul you can find all the locations.

Shopping in Myeongdong

Myeongdong is a very popular shopping destination for cosmetics and clothes. This area is busy all day but really comes to life at night. Make sure to visit the street food stalls (at night) to try some South Korean snacks like tteokbokki (spicy rice cake) and Pancakes filled with sweet rice.

Lotte Department store

One of the most well-known department stores in Seoul with many luxury stores and a food market. It is one of those you-just-have-to-visit places in Seoul, but not necessarily the most interesting mall. At night the building is illuminated, so make sure to look at it while you enjoy Myeongdong’s streetfood at Myeongdong-gil (where it meets Namdaemun-ro).

Opening hours: weekdays 10:30-20:00; weekends & public holidays 10:30-20:30

Lotte Outlet and Lotte Mart

Near Seoul train station there is a big Lotte Outlet store offering huge discounts on clothes from many brands.

Also nearby is a big supermarket that sells all your favorite Korean food and snacks. The mart is a very good place to visit before going home if you’re interested in Korean food souvenirs.

Seoul Station pedestrian overpass

Seoul train station is a beautiful building on its own. Follow the pedestrian overpass, decorated with plants and seating areas for a good view of Seoul Station and a nice, relaxing walk.

Shinsegae Department store

This is another well-known department store with a beautiful light show at night (especially around Christmas). I spent more than ten minutes watching it from various sides.

Regular opening hours: 10:30-20:00; extended hours: 10:30-20:30.

Outside view of the Bank of Korea

The Bank of Korea (opposite of Shinsegae) is also an interesting building to see; its ‘western’ architecture not quite matching the modern buildings surrounding it.

Seoul Namsan Tower

When it gets dark, take the cable car up to Namsan Tower for a beautiful view of the city. If you are traveling with someone you love you can add your own love lock to the fence surrounding the tower area. This is also fun if it’s just you. Coming from Myeongdong, the start of the cable car is within walking distance.

Opening hours: 10:00 – 23:00.

King Sejong Statue

On the road between City Hall and Gyeongbokgung Palace you can see the statue of King Sejong, the inventor of South Korean’s Hangul script.

Gyeongbokgung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace

Admire the view of the old palace, one of the most important palaces of the Joseon dynasty, and take a walk on the palace grounds. Keep walking until you reach the far end of the palace grounds. You will find yourself alone with ample photo opportunities.

The hall in the picture above is used in many Korean TV dramas and movies.

Opening hours: 9:00 – 18:00; closed on Tuesdays.

Blue House

The Blue House, the official residence of the president of South Korea, is just north of Gyeongbokgung Palace. You can combine the two spots by taking the North exit of the palace grounds (and go back inside after).

Bukchon Hanok village

Wander around the small streets with traditional houses and visit a tea house for a traditional tea with snacks to show off your tea-making skills.

Walk east from Gyeongbokgung Palace to get to Bukchon Hanok Village.

Opening hours: the neighborhood is open all day, but try to plan your visit before 5 pm as to not disturb the locals.

Traditional tea house

Or drink one of the fruit and herbal based tea with rice cake snacks (no tea-making skills required).

Insadong

Visit the craft stores and Ssamziegil mall. If you’re up for some more tea you can go to O’sulloc: a modern tea house.

Temple food

Try a buddhist meal in one of the many restaurants in Insadong. I went to Balwoo Gongyang and enjoyed the multi-course meal very much. Sanchon is also a good option.

If you go to Balwoo Gongyang, then the temple across the street is also worth a visit.

Cheonggyecheon stream

Cheonggyecheon stream is a very popular place for a stroll among Koreans. Many TV drama scenes were filmed here as well. This picture was taken at Christmas.

Kyobo Gwanghwamun Bookstore

Huge book store with many books and a cafe inside. Highly recommended if you love reading. They also sell many English translations of Korean books.

Opening hours: 9:30 – 22:30.

Noryangjin fish market

Buy the fish you want to eat for breakfast and head to one of the restaurants with your bought fish to have it prepared for you. You can choose to visit the old or the new market (or both), easily distinguishable by the modernness of the building.

Opening hours: all day.

Samsung D’light

Do the interactive tour to admire Samsung’s innovations. If you’re a fan of Samsung, but also if you’re not, it is very interesting to see their take on smart homes and the future. I really enjoyed this one.

Opening hours: 10:00 – 19:00; closed on Sundays.

Apgujeong-ro and K-Star Road

Apgujeong-ro is well known for its many luxury stores. You can find the most famous luxury brands here. One part of this street is also known as K-Star Road: along the pavement, you can see GangnamDols of many popular K-Pop bands. Can you spot your favorite among them?

Where: Area between Apgujeong subway station and 139-10 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul for K-Star Road.

Garosu-gil

Garosu-gil is a shopping street in Gangnam, known as the ‘tree-lined street’. I see it recommended everywhere, that’s why I included it here, but I didn’t find it all that interesting and it mainly seems popular among tourists. When I went there in winter, with the trees bearing no leaves, it looked like a very ordinary street and I didn’t find it much more interesting when I went back in spring. I did have tea with cake twice at Eight Seconds, so if you do visit Garosu-gil, do stop by that cafe.

Eat or have a drink in Yeoksam-dong

A much less touristy place than Garosu-gil and my favorite restaurant and cafe area in Gangnam. Head over to Bongeunsa-ro 2 gil (and other streets nearby) in Yeoksam-dong for a drink or a meal. If you visit during popular dinner times you can see people queuing outside in front of their favorite restaurants.

Cosmetics sampling

Try out the cosmetics using modern technology in the cosmetic stores in Gangnam-daero (parallel to Bongeunsa-ro 2 gil).

Shopping at COEX Mall

Go shopping at Gangnam’s COEX Mall. In the middle of the mall, you can find a beautiful bookstore.

Gwangjang market

Eat Korean breakfast at Gwangjang market. Try their mung bean pancakes, chicken legs and other food that catches your eye.

Dongdaemun Gate and Wall

Take pictures of the gate with modern buildings in its vicinity and walk along the eastern wall to enjoy a nice view of the city.

Doota shopping mall

Many boutiques with affordable clothes from starting fashion designers; definitely worth a visit.

Migliore

Another shopping mall offering a nice view of Dongdaemun Design Plaza. In the picture, you can see the illuminated flower field next to Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

Opening hours: 10:30 – 4:30; closed on Mondays.

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

The Doota and Migliore malls are right next to Dongdaemun Design Plaza. From the higher floors of Migliore mall, you have a nice view of the plaza. It is very interesting to watch this beautiful building both during the day and the night when the flower field and malls are illuminated. Also, make sure to explore the inside of the Design Plaza; depending on when you visit there might be an interesting exhibition inside.

Restaurant recommendation: Bukchon Sonmandoo: their (fried) dumplings are delicious.

Opening hours: 10:30 – 6:00.

Namdaemun Market and Namdaemun Gate

Large indoor and outdoor market with shops selling various goods near the old Southern Gate of the city. A good place to go for snacks and cheap souvenirs.

Walk by Namdaemun Gate at night when it’s illuminated to see the lights of cars rushing by play with the old structure.

Namdaemun market is closed on Sundays.

Ewha Womans University

Even though it’s named after women, nowadays men are welcome too. The campus grounds contain both older ‘western’-looking buildings and newer buildings. Especially the path towards the campus, going partly below ground, is beautiful to look at. In the area around Ewha University, you can find many shops and restaurants.

Yonsei University

Yonsei University is one of the SKY Universities which makes it one of the most prestigious in the country. Wander around the campus grounds to admire the buildings and if you’re lucky, visit a concert at their concert hall.

Shopping near Sinchon subway station

Modern shopping area attracting lots of young people. If you happen to be there around Christmas, this area will have turned into a Christmas market with live music.

Itaewon

Visit Itaewon in the evening to explore this expat neighborhood with many foreign restaurants (and foreigners).

Visit a concert

Every year there are many concerts in Seoul. Especially around Christmas and New Year, the offer is amazing. Christmas 2017 I went to the concerts of Jaurim and Roy Kim and if I wanted I could have visited a different concert every day of my stay.

You can look for concerts on Interpark. Buying tickets is very easy and only requires a credit card. You then bring the ticket to the venue right before the concert and go to the desk saying ‘Interpark’ (not necessarily the ticket office; the desk could be in front of the hall). If you can’t read Korean, just ask anyone for Interpark and they’ll point you to the right person.

Tickets for the Christmas period only came available early November, so you might not see all concerts up to two months before you’re going on holiday. For some concerts, tickets aren’t sold via Interpark.

Read more about buying concert tickets in Seoul.

Hike Bukhansan

Go hiking in Bukhansan National Park, the highest mountain within Seoul. It borders the northern part of the city and is visible from many of its neighborhoods.

Day trips from Seoul

When you’ve seen all the above or are looking to venture outside of Seoul, there are many places you can visit close to Seoul.

Garden of Morning Calm

A beautifully designed garden and a short day trip from Seoul. You can see blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snow landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as the whole garden will be illuminated and look like a winter wonderland.

Tip: combine your visit to the Garden of Morning Calm with Nami Island and Petite France. You can book an arranged tour via Klook.com.

Nami Island and Petite France

Take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard on Nami Island, famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata. Nearby you can also visit Petite France, which has been used as a film set for many tv shows as well (example: My Love from Another Star).

Tip: combine your visit to Nami Island and Petite France with the Garden of Morning Calm. You can book an arranged tour via Klook.com.

Visit Suwon

The city of Suwon is best known for Suwon Hwaseong Fortress. A good start would be to head to Janganmun Gate and follow the trail south along the wall admiring the reconstructed historical buildings until you get to Seojangdae Commanding Post.

Leave the fortress in the south and head east to Padalmun gate, one of the four big gates of Suwon Hwaseong. The area around the gate and Yeongdong Market is ideal to buy some snacks or lunch during a day full of history.

Follow Haenggung-ro to visit Hwaseong Haenggung, a temporary palace where the royal family retreated to during a war. In Haenggung-ro you can see many interesting shops and mural art. This is also the street the dressed-up royal guards with musical instruments take from the palace.

Your next stop is Haenggung-dong Mural Village. There are only a few streets, but the painting on the walls is really impressive. End your historical tour in Suwon with a look at Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion.

If you have time for diner, I recommend heading to Hyanggyo-ro near Suwon train and subway station. There are many fun places to eat here and this area really comes to life at night.

Trip to DMZ

Visit the demilitarized zone that separates South Korea from North Korea on a day trip from Seoul. It is a nice trip if you want to see the spot you see in news reports. If you have a car it might be more interesting to visit north Ganghwa-do or Eulji Observatory above Yanggu or go to the border from Sokcho (Goseong) to experience a less touristy version of the DMZ.

You can choose to join one of the tours offered by Klook.com to make sure you don’t miss out on the best sites.

Lotte World

If you’re looking for some entertainment, go to Lotte World theme park filled with rides, parades and many other things to do.

Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 9:30 – 22:00; Friday – Sunday: 9:30 – 23:00.

Everland

Everland is South Korea’s largest theme park and even has a zoo and water park. Enjoy the rides, the parks and other entertainment like a firework show.

Opening hours: 10:00 – 22:00

Namhansanseong Fortress

Visit this historic mountain fortress just south of Seoul. In the past, this fortress was often used as a command post or emergency capital because of its defendable location. Namhansanseong is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

Visit Chuncheon

If you want to eat some Dakgalbi, then go to Myeongdong street in Chuncheon. You can easily combine a visit to Chuncheon with the Garden of Morning Calm and Petite France or Nami Island. If you have a car, Gubongsan Mountain Observatory is also worth a visit to enjoy the view of Chuncheon.

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The south and west of South Korea: a travel itinerary

Kim — Mon, 23 Sep 2019 15:23:19 +0000

Tour South Korea in three weeks by car and visit the lesser-known south and west with this travel itinerary. You’ll see Ganghwa, Namwon, Wando and more. If you are looking for a well-balanced mix of big cities, culture and nature, while skipping the so-called ‘highlights’ then this travel itinerary is for you.

This trip is ideal for second-time visitors that have already seen the highlights of South Korea. If this is your first visit to South Korea, you might want to check my other South Korea travel itinerary featuring the highlights and must-see places for first-time visitors.

Travel itinerary overview

Ganghwa – day 1 – 2
Chuncheon – day 3 – 5
Chungju – day 6 – 7
Daegu – day 8 – 9
Namwon – day 10 – 12
Boseong – day 13 – 14
Wando – day 15 – 16
Mokpo – day 17 – 18
Boryeong – day 19 – 20
Suwon – day 21
Practical information (including detailed travel budget information)

If you have more time, you can add some days in Seoul at the end of this itinerary

Use this itinerary if you want a comfortable trip. It’s not a quick see-it-all, but a well-balanced itinerary using one city as a base for exploring the area.

Check out my Lesser-known south and west of South Korea Itinerary map in Google maps.

Ganghwa - day 1 - 2

Ganghwa is only a 30-40 minute drive from Incheon airport. The island, connected to the mainland by bridges, played a key role in opening Korea to the world. From the northern tip of Ganghwa, you can see North Korea.

Day 1 - North Ganghwado and Gyodong

The first day of this mid and west South Korea journey is perfect for a road trip on the islands of Ganghwa and Gyodong. There are many historic sites originally used in the defense of Ganghwa and Korea. You probably don’t want to visit all of them and instead choose to spend more time at some of the sites to also enjoy the area surrounding it.

Visit (one of) the fortresses Deokjinjin (mid), Gwangseongbo (north) and Chojijin (south). If you only have time for one I suggest you visit Deokjinjin as it has a gate, cannon defense and a fort and then drive north to Ganghwa Fortress’ four gates. In the middle, you can also see an Anglican Church (in Hanok style!) and Yongheunggung Royal Residence, so this is a good area for sightseeing and having a drink in a cafe.

Next up is Ganghwa Dolmen; a well-advertised place where you can see a dolmen. Skip this if you want to win some time (or simply take a picture of the dolmen from beyond the gate). There is a more interesting dolmen site further south that you can visit on day 2 of this itinerary.

If you like museums you can visit Hwamunseok Cultural Centre to learn more about how the people of Ganghwa lived long ago.

Drive further north on one of the smaller roads for a nice view of the rice fields and farms until you get to Ganghwa Peace Observatory at the northernmost part of the island to look at North Korea with binoculars. On your way to the observatory, you have to check-in at an army post to receive your visitor card and return it to the same army post on the way back. When we got there the soldiers were very excited to see some foreigners.

When entering Gyodong you also have to pick up a visitor card at an army post. Another interesting fact: whenever you enter Ganghwa from Gimpo, your car gets an anti-epidemic car wash. Motorcyclists too!

After visiting the Ganghwa Peace Observatory, drive west to the smaller island Gyodong for a drink in Gyodong-myeon, another look at North Korea at Gyodong Observatory (meaning two wild binoculars) and a visit to Gyodong Hyanggyo, a beautiful sight without any tourists. Even Google hasn’t filmed the roads yet, so enjoy the sight. If you want a sneak preview, check out this area in KakaoMap.

Read more about the must-see places on Ganghwa, Gyodong and Seokmodo

Day 2 - South Ganghwa and Seokmodo

Visit Jeondeungsa Temple in the southern part of Ganghwa for a walk around the temple grounds and some traditional tea with a rice cake mugwort snack. If you feel active you can walk up the stairs near the entrance of the temple to get a nice view of the island and the temple grounds from above.

After your visit to the temple, head south for a quick stop at Huaedondae fort and a view of the ocean mud.

From there, drive to Seongmodo / Seokmodo, another island with sights not yet spoiled by Google Maps (it’s even keeping the bridge linking Seokmodo and Ganghwa secret). Use KakaoMap for a more recent view of the island.

On the island, you can see Bomunsa temple and go for a walk in the Seokmodo Arboretum. After returning to Ganghwa island, make a quick stop at the lesser-known dolmen and gravesite in the middle of the island. Also nearby is Ganghwa Arimae World; a museum about agriculture for kids but also very interesting for adults as you can learn more about the fruit and plants grown on Ganghwa. The museum is in Korean but with many pictures making it easy to understand.

Alternatively, you can hike up to Chamseongdan Altar on Ganghwa for a nice view of the whole island.

Where to stay in Ganghwa

I chose Docking Hotel just across the bridge from Ganghwa (so in Gimpo actually) because of its location, closeness to restaurants and good price. The hotel itself was ok but had just changed owner and now only accepts cash. Also, the location on Agoda isn’t accurate (it is actually a 5-minutes drive further east) and it took some time to find the hotel.

Chuncheon - day 3 - 5

Chuncheon is a popular getaway for those looking to spend a day outside the bustling capital of Seoul. It is known as the city featured in the Korean TV drama Winter Sonata.

Day 3 - Paju Book City, Nuri Peace Park, Soyanggang sidewalk, Chuncheon Myeongdong street

Before going to Chuncheon, make a quick stop at Paju Book City. Have a drink in one of the cafes while looking at shelves full of books. If you’re up for another “border with North Korea” experience, head north past Paju to visit Nuri Peace Park to enjoy the park and contemplate war and peace while watching art.

From there drive east and enjoy the mountain road when you continue to Chuncheon after visiting the waterfall. Explore Chuncheon in the evening and visit Soyanggang sidewalk for a nice view of the city and lake. For dinner, head to Myeongdong street to try the Dakgalbi Chuncheon is famous for.

Day 4 - Nami Island, Petite France, Garden of Morning Calm

Today’s sightseeing starts at Nami Island, only a short drive from Chuncheon. Park your car at the ferry parking lot northwest of the island and take a short ferry ride to Nami. On the island, famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata, you can take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard and grab something to eat or drink.

After your visit to Nami, take the ferry back to your car and drive over to Petite France, which has been used as a film set for many tv shows as well (example: My Love from Another Star). I skipped this stop as I was a bit pressed for time and because I can actually drive to France from my hometown. For this same reason, I skipped Huis ten Bosch (Little Holland) near Nagasaki last year.

The next stop is the Garden of Morning Calm, a beautifully designed garden in a valley surrounded by mountains. You can see blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snowy landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as the whole garden will be illuminated: a true winter wonderland.

Day 5 - Yanggu, Unification Hall, Eulji Observatory, Hwacheon Peace Dam, Gubongsan Observatory

It’s time for a road trip again. Drive northeast of Chuncheon towards Yanggu Rodeo street; a street decorated with art though in a very smalltown way.

From there on drive further north along the mountain road to Eulji Observatory. Eulji Observatory is located at the ridge of Gachilbong Peak at only 1km from the DMZ. The 4th Infiltration Tunnel is nearby. From the observatory, you can see the Punchbowl (bowl-shaped Haean basin). Make sure you reach the observatory in time as the last admission is 16:00 in winter and 17:00 in summer. You’re not allowed to enter the 4th Infiltration Tunnel during lunch time (12:00 – 13:00). Also keep in mind that times may change and the tunnel might close because of the weather (like a tornado; this happened to me but luckily I checked the website the day before and could change my itinerary). A visit to the observatory and tunnel is only possible by car or organized tour; no bicycles or motorcycles allowed.

Before you can visit the tunnel and observatory you need to stop by Unification Hall to register your visit. They will give you a blue paper for access to Eulji Observatory and a yellow and pink paper for the 4th Infiltration Tunnel. Make sure you don’t hand in your yellow or pink paper at Eulji Observatory (that happened to us: the soldier at the guard post wouldn’t let us leave with our yellow paper) or you’ll have to get a new one at the Unification Hall before visiting the Tunnel.

You can also visit Eulji Observatory as a day trip from Sokcho.

Continue the roadtrip west towards Hwacheon and stop at the Peace Dam to strike the peace bell (the tourist guides at the information stand will help you) and enjoy the view on top of the dam.

From there, head back to Gubongsan Observatory in Chuncheon to watch the sunset.

What to read in Chuncheon

On days 3 and 5 you visit the border with North Korea. So my reading recommendation for this part of the trip is:

Masaji Ishikawa - A River of Darkness: One Man’s Escape from North Korea

About the treatment of someone stuck between two worlds. It makes you want to fix the world, but just like the main character, you probably won’t be able to do anything about it.

Half-Korean, half-Japanese, Masaji Ishikawa has spent his whole life feeling like a man without a country. This feeling only deepened when his family moved from Japan to North Korea when Ishikawa was just thirteen years old, and unwittingly became members of the lowest social caste. His father, himself a Korean national, was lured to the new Communist country by promises of abundant work, education for his children, and a higher station in society. But the reality of their new life was far from utopian.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Where to stay in Chuncheon

I stayed at OST Hotel in the middle of Chuncheon near Myeongdong street and shops because of its good location and price. I can recommend this hotel as a low budget option.

Chungju - day 6 - 7

Chungju is a beautiful town with hot springs surrounded by National Parks.

Day 6 - National Park, Hot spring bath

As Chungju is not far from Chuncheon, there is plenty of time today to visit one of the national parks. Take your pick from Chiaksan National Park, Songnisan National Park, Woraksan National Park or Sobaeksan National Park. Tomorrow you can visit one of the others.

If you’re looking for an easy and short trail, head over to Songnisan for a short hike and lunch near the trail.

Enjoy a hot spring bath in your hotel or one of the spas in the evening.

Alternative options if you don’t want to go hiking in a national park:

About half an hour northwest of Chungju, you can find the Rock-carved buddhas of Bonghwang-ri. In the middle of nowhere, in a quiet village surrounded by farms, you can find this small and unknown point of interest. After climbing a few stairs, which takes only a few minutes, you reach the stone buddha’s carved in the rock. The remote location and the quiet nature of the area make this a very good place for a small altar.

Closer to Chungju you can visit two parks: Jungangtap Historic Park and Chungju Tangeumdae. We chose to go to Tangeumdae, meaning ‘a rock platform for playing the gayageum’, associated with the musician Ureuk who would play the gayageum at this site. From the park, you have a good view of the river and many sculptures and memorial pagodas can be seen on a walk through the park.

Right next to Tangeumdae (but below the hill) you can find Chungju World Martial Arts Park which is often used for festivals. During my visit on 5 October, the Chungju Agricultural Products Hanmadang Festival was held allowing us to try many local specialties (it was tiny apple and sweet potato season apparently). So if you’re visiting in early October, keep an eye on this festival (충주농산물 한마당 축제).

South of Chungju lies Suok Pokpo Falls; a beautiful waterfall with a pavilion that is easily reached from the nearby parking lot. Photo tip: stand next to the pavilion to take a picture of both the waterfall and the pavilion.

Day 7 - Cheongpung Cable Car, Dodamsambong Peaks, Guinsa Temple

Start the day with a beautiful drive from Chungju or Suanbo along road 508 through Woraksan National Park to get to Cheongpung Cable Car. From the top of the cable car platform, you can see Jecheon lake and the surrounding mountains. In the cafe and bakery on top, you can have a coffee break while still taking in this fantastic view. If I ever return to this area, I’ll definitely take the cable car (one of the best in South Korea) to the top again to spend some more time on the platform.

Drive east from Cheongpung to Danyang to see Danyang’s Dodamsambong Peaks; one of the eight views of Danyang. If the season is right you get this beautiful view of the three rocks and pavilion with a colorful flower field in front.

The next stop is Guinsa Temple, one of the most incredible temples of South Korea. From the temple, after reaching the top, you have a terrific view of the whole temple area surrounded by mountains. Be prepared to walk half an hour uphill to reach this top. On the way, you pass the temple stay buildings that were built in the same style. But the top, that’s where the real sights are.

Alternatively, you can skip the above and go hiking all day.

Where to stay in Chungju

I chose to stay at Hotel Screen in the Suanbo area of Chungju because it is surrounded by national parks and offers a hot spring bath.

What to watch when visiting Chungju

Svaha: The Sixth Finger

Interesting movie taking place in the Chungju area. There are many references to the buddhist centres in Chungju, Jecheon, Danyang, Jeongseon and Taebaek. The scenery is very nice to watch and gives you an idea of what the area looks like.

Description: Pastor Park works to expose suspicious religious groups. He’s hired to look into the cult group Deer Mount. Meanwhile, Police Captain Hwang investigates a murder case and the main suspect is a member of the Deer Mount cult.

The movie is available on Netflix (in my country).

Daegu - day 8 - 9

Day 8 - Mungyeong Fortress and Tunnel, Hamchang Art Road, Daegu

After many days in smaller cities and visiting national parks, it is time to enjoy the big and vibrant city Daegu. But before you go there, you will make some stops in small, lesser-known towns.

The first stop of today is Mungyeong to see Gomosanseong Fortress. This fortress has a beautiful location on top of a hill and gives a good view of the surrounding mountainous area and the river flowing in between. North of the fortress gate you can find an open-air traditional Korean houses ‘museum’ (more like three houses). Also nearby is Tokkibiri Cliffside Road, a famous trade route, that you can reach by following the fortress wall east.

Before heading back to your car, you can visit Mungyeong Omija Theme Tunnel near the parking lot to observe mural art and other artistic decorations in the tunnel.

The next stop is Hamchang to follow the Hamchang Art Road. This road leads you in a circle through the village, showing mural art (not that much) and other artistic expressions but more interestingly it shows you an authentic village (small town) in the countryside with nice houses. Start near Hamchang Train Station and follow the white line that has been edged into the street (it looks like someone spilled paint) through town.

On the road, you can also find Tomb of King Goryeong-Gaya (Gaya Royal Tomb): a not very touristic site but perhaps one of the most beautiful tombs I visited on this trip.

Continue to your hotel in Daegu and take the subway to Kim Gwang Seok Street: a street dedicated to the deceased singer Kim Gwang Seok. The whole street has been decorated with colorful (mural) art. Have a drink at one of the many cafes while enjoying the view.

When it gets dark it is the perfect time to explore the shopping area near Dongseong-ro and find a restaurant that serves Daegu Makchang (grilled intestines).

If you have some spare time during the day, you can also take the cable car up to Apsan Park and Observatory for a good view of the city and a hike.

Day 9 - Gyeongju

Today’s highlight is a day trip to Gyeongju. Alternatively, you can visit Andong, which I wrote about in my Highlights of South Korea itinerary. Gyeongju is often referred to as ‘the museum without walls’, due to the many archaeological sites in the area.

Start with a visit to Gyeongju’s Gyochon Traditional Village to observe traditional houses. If you visit out of season (and in my case on a Tuesday) many restaurants and attractions will be closed but you can still wander through the streets and watch the hanok houses. Parking tip: park at the parking lot to the left of the village for free parking. You have to pay for the parking spaces outside of the lot.

Next to the village, you can find Woljeonggyo Bridge, originally leading to Wolseong palace, a royal palace of the Silla dynasty.

Walk north from the Woljeonggyo Bridge towards Cheomseongdae Observatory, the oldest surviving star-gazing platform in Asia. On your way, you can see Gyeongju Hwangnamdong remains on the left side.

Northwest of Cheomseongdae Observatory, you can visit Daereungwon Tomb Complex to see the Tomb of King-Michu and Cheonmachong. Also interesting here are the curved trees and fruit trees in the park.

East of Cheomseongdae Observatory you can visit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, the secondary palace used by the crown prince during the Silla period. During the Goryeo and Joseon period, the pond was referred to as Anapji Pond.

A fifteen minutes drive south of this historical site heavy area you can find Seochulji Pond, a site pretty much ignored by tourists and therefore blissfully quiet. The pond is at its best when the lotus flowers in the pond are in full bloom, but even if they are not the pond is worth a visit because of the lay of the land, the trees surrounding the pond and the buildings in the area.

If you have more time you can drive half an hour east to visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.

When evening falls head back to your hotel in Daegu and visit one of the many restaurants in the city for a good meal.

Where to stay in Daegu

I stayed at an apartment (Dan Home), because I found one with a good price near a subway station I wanted to be close to (Banwoldang) and near a shopping and restaurant area.

Namwon - day 10 - 12

Day 10 - Jianjae Pass, Odogae Pass, Jirisanjomang Park, Changwon, Byeoksongsa Temple, Seoamjeongsa Temple

The next hotel in Namwon is within two hours driving distance from Daegu. But as there are many places to visit in the area, you can go sightseeing until evening falls.

Drive west to Hamyang and take the scenic drive along the Odogae Pass (or Jianjae Pass) into Jirisan National Park. The Odogae Pass was designated as one of the 100 most beautiful roads of Korea. Along the road, you can also the First Gateway and Jirisanjomang Park.

Head further south to visit the village of Changwon and have a drink at 마을카페안녕 (closed on Mondays).

Drive further south to visit the secluded Byeoksongsa Temple. Walk to the top to have a great view of the temple site surrounded by mountains.

The next stop is Seoamjeongsa Temple. Of all the sites I visited during this South Korea itinerary, this was perhaps the site I was most impressed with because it was so beautiful. When you enter the area you walk past rock-carved guardians, between walls of stone until you reach very well-maintained temples surrounded by mountains. There is a cave with walls completely covered by rock-carvings. And so on. It is easily one of the most impressive temples in South Korea.

Parking tip: you can drive all the way to both temples if you visit out of season. Drive past the bigger parking lot with shops and go right for Byeoksongsa Temple (many parking spots) and left for Seoamjeongsa Temple (only five parking spots, so you have to be lucky).

From here, follow the mountain road until you reach your hotel in Namwon.

If you’re up early, you can also make the following stops before heading to Hamyang.

The first place to visit today is Miryang Man-Eosa to see the temple overlooking a field of black stones spread all the way down the mountain. Afterward, head into Miryang for a drink and a visit to Mubongsa and Yeongnamnu Pavillion overlooking the river around Sammun-dong.

Also near Miryang is Yerim Seowon; a school turned shrine. This site probably looks a lot like Dosanseowon near Andong, but is not as well-known.

From here, drive north to Haeinsa Temple in Gayasan National Park. This temple complex is surrounded by mountains so a visit is probably already worth it because of the road that takes you there.

Southwest of Gayasan National Park, you can visit Daebyeong-myeon to eat at a restaurant and take some pictures of the nearby lake.

Day 11 - Jinan Red Ginseng Spa, Maisan Provincial Park, Tapsa Temple

Head to Maisan Provincial Park to visit Tapsa Temple and Eunsusa. Both temples are located in a very scenic area. Eunsusa has one big oval ‘mountain’ behind it and Tapsa Temple is surrounded by many stones; both are good sites for a stroll and taking pictures. Can you spot all the buddhas and alcoves hidden at the temple site?

From the parking lot, you have to walk about twenty minutes to reach Tapsa Temple. But before you get there you first pass Geumdangsa Temple: a teaser for what’s to come.

If you feel active, you can also go hiking in Maisan Provincial Park.

This afternoon is for relaxing at the Red Ginseng Spa in Jinan. After entering you follow the five-room program.

The Harmony Therapy room: you smear yourself with mud and relax for ten minutes on the comfortable stone chairs until the showers start spraying water from the ceiling washing the mud off.
The Stone Therapy room: lie down and relax for ten minutes on a bed of hot stones.
The Aroma Therapy room: after drinking a red ginseng shot, you can lie down for fifteen minutes in a bubbling red ginseng bath using the herbal pillow provided.
After drying in the hot-and-cold air room, you enter the Herbal Therapy room: you get to lie down for twenty minutes on a herbal/hay bed in a warm room. They actually forgot to get us out, so we were still there after 45 minutes… very relaxed of course.
The Bubble Therapy room: come into contact with your inner child while playing with bubbles. You can completely cover yourself (or your companions) with eye-friendly soap. As in the Harmony room, you can wash it all off when the showers in the ceiling start spraying water.

After finishing the therapy rooms, or in between, you can visit the bubble bath on the rooftop, providing a great view of the two mountain tops of Maisan Provincial Park. Inside the spa, you can also enjoy the indoor room and the floating room.

The staff will help you get everywhere on time. To enter the spa you need a shower cap that you can rent at the reception desk. Towels are provided.

For pictures of the rooms, check out the blog post by Hedgers Abroad.

If you’re traveling in October, try to time your visit to Jinan during the Jinan Red Ginseng Festival (9-13 October in 2019). If you’re lucky you can catch a performance from a K-Pop group, but even if you visit on a non-festival day a visit to the town is worth it to sample red ginseng products and local specialties.

Day 12 - Jirisan National Park, Seodo Station, Gwanghallu Pavilion, Namwon

Go hiking in Jirisan National Park. You can go for an all-day hike (or overnight) or just sample Jirisan by driving through the Cheoneunsa-Seongsamjae Course and do the Nogodan Course (an easy one hour and fifteen minutes hike).

After a morning hike or as an alternative day program, head to Seodo Station, just north of Namwon, to visit the filming site of the 2018 K-Drama Mr. Sunshine.

Back in Namwon (because you have to visit the city you stay in after all), head to Gwanghallu Pavilion, known for the Korean folk tale Chunhyangjeon.

If you like museums, Kim Byeong Jong Museum (남원시립김병종미술관) is recommended. The architecture of the building is interesting because of the way it uses space and overflowing water. When I visited during the Sound of Namwon festival in 2019, there was an exhibition about sound. Even though there were only three galleries and therefore not much to see, the exhibition was worth it and reminded me of the sound of the flowing water outside the building and the sound of wind catchers in the shape of colorful insects catching the wind.

If you’re visiting in October when the lantern festival hits Jinju (1-13 October in 2019), then head to Jinjuseong Fortress in Jinju to join the festivities. It was one of the more interesting festivals I visited in South Korea with its many colorful lanterns in many forms, the illuminated Jinjuseong Fortress and good food stalls next to the river. During the festival, you can also visit the fortress and observe the fortress wall, temple and pagoda on top of the hill.

Where to stay in Namwon

I stayed at Namwon Hotel because I got charmed by the picture of the hotel surrounded by nature. In reality, the building looked a bit worn, but the owner was a really nice man, making us free breakfast every morning (fried egg, apple, steamed sweet potato and toast). This hotel is near Jirisan and Maisan Provincial Park.

Boseong - day 13 - 14

Day 13 - Damyang/Gwangju or Gwangyang/Suncheon or Yeosu/Dolsando

If you have never been to this area before, you have a very interesting choice to make.

Go to Damyang and Gwangju to visit Juknokwon Bamboo Forest in Damyang and the Student Uprising monument in Gwangju.
Go to Gwangyang and Suncheon to visit Gubongsan Observatory, Suncheon Drama Film set and Suncheon Bay National Garden and Wetland Reserve.
Roadtrip to Yeosu and Dolsando (more practical if you are staying in Suncheon or Gwangyang than Boseong)

See my Highlights of South Korea travel itinerary day 12 – 15 for more information about the above.

Day 14 - Goheung peninsula, Jeokgeumtto Island, Naenarodo Island

It’s time to explore one of the lesser-known peninsulas in South-Korea: Goheung. Unspoiled by tourism, the fishing and farming industry seemingly unbothered by the fast-moving world further north, in other words: a very unique place to visit, so go there before it’s too late.

Start your road trip with a visit to the fishing village on Jeokgeumtto Island. There is a bridge going from Goheung to Jeokgeumtto but it’s not yet visible on Google Maps. Once the bridges connecting Goheung to Yeosu peninsula are finished, this area will become really interesting (and attract more tourism) as you can also visit the islands in between. But already the fishing village with its decorated houses and the small road around the island not yet optimized for vehicles is worth a visit.

Going back to the east side of Goheung, you can visit Yeongnam Yongbawi (영남용바위) rock area to see the cliffs shaped by the seawater over time and, if you’re lucky, see the locals in action fishing and looking for shellfish.

Nearby is Goheung Observatory (고흥우주발사전망대) with a rotating cafe on the top level providing a great view of the many small islands in the sea surrounding Goheung peninsula.

Continue the road trip towards Naenarodo Island while observing the peaks of Paryeongsan Mountain and the colorful murals on the walls in Yeongnam-myeon village.

On Naenarodo Island you can find a cafe (하얀노을카페) with a brilliant view of the islands in the area and an open terrace which is perfect for relaxing while watching the sun go down in the ocean.

Where to stay in Boseong

I stayed in a two-bedroom villa with a terrace at Chungnokdang, a traditional Korean house in Boseong surrounded by tea fields. It was a very beautiful area to just wander around and relax a bit. The tea plants higher up are not well-maintained at all: I see a job opportunity there. The lady of the house does use the lower region to make her own tea. Breakfast was great (many side-dishes) and the hosts were very nice. This traditional house was of better quality (better hygiene, better maintenance) than the one Nongamjongtaek I stayed at last year in Andong. But the one in Andong felt more relaxing because the area surrounding it was more nature than village and there was more space for simply hanging out and relaxing for a day.

Wando - day 15 - 16

Wando is an island in the southern part of the country, connected to the mainland by a bridge. It’s most famous for Cheonghaejin; the headquarters of Jang Bogo who dominated the sea routes in the Yellow Sea in the ninth century.

Day 15 - Boseong Tea Plantation, Gangjin Bay Ecological Park, Cheonghaejin, Jang Bogo Statue, Wando Tower

Pay a visit to Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation in the morning. If you’re visiting in May, see if you can plan your visit around the annual tea festival. You can walk around the tea fields and even go up for a very nice view of the surrounding area. Don’t forget to sample and buy some tea at the tea museum/store.

The next stop is Gangjin Bay Eco Park. This park, with the parking lot completely covered by solar panels, very much resembles Suncheon Wetlands, but then without tourists. You can walk on the boardwalks in between reed and water with mountains in the background and take all the pictures you want!

After entering Wando, you can find Cheonghaejin island on the eastcoast. You can visit the island by crossing the bridge that connects it to the bigger Wando on foot. On the island, you can see many historical sites related to general Jang Bogo. It basically feels like you’re on your own paradise island and it isn’t hard to imagine the Koreans of the past used this island as a naval base.

Back on Wando, not far south of Cheonghaejin, you can see the Statue of Jang Bogo on top of a building resembling a ship.

In the afternoon and evening, you can explore Wando town and head to Wando Tower when it gets dark to see the illuminated tower and city.

I also highly recommend a visit to Wando’s Sea Algae Center in the harbor of Wando before 6 pm: the visual representation inside the museum is beautiful and there are English movies about the different types of seaweed and abalone cultivated on Wando and the surrounding islands. On your visit to Bogildo tomorrow you will see many seaweed farms and if you look closely you can spot abalone processing shops in Wando town.

Day 16 - Bogildo Island: Yunseondo Grove, Nakseoje, Goksudang, Manggeut observatory, Yesongri observatory, Song Si-yeol rock

Head to Hwaheunpo Port on the western side of Wando to take a ferry to Bogildo, also called the most beautiful island in Wando, just 12 km off the coast of South-Korea. The whole island is a maritime national park, wrapped in evergreen forest and high rising hills.

The ferry itself is the first attraction: join the locals and lie down on the heated floor for the duration of the fifty-minute journey to Dongcheon port on the island Nohwa (Nowhado).

The most well-known site to visit on Bogildo is Yunseondo Grove, a secluded garden in the center of the island with the representative pattern from the Joseon dynasty.

Nearby you can also visit the traditional houses and library Goksudang and Nakseojae.

By taking the road on the western side of the island you can reach Manggeut Observatory and Book-ri Dinosaur Egg Fossils Beach. From the observatory, you have a good view of the coastline of Bogildo and of the surrounding islands. The Dinosaur Egg Beach is a very good place for some pictures of the sea standing amidst the egg-shaped stones on the beach.

On the eastcoast of Bogildo you can stop for a picnic (bring your own lunch!) at Yesongri observatory while watching the harbor with fishing boats and seaweed farms. This is a very nice spot.

Also on the eastern side of Bogildo you can visit Song Si-yeol writing rock to see the poem written on the rock. I was very lucky with the weather on this part of my trip: the sky was growing dark, but the sun was still shining and the yellow rocks of the cliff were illuminated against a very bright blue/green sea. In other words: the view here is beautiful.

Some practical tips: when I visited none of the restaurants and cafes on Bogildo (if any) were open. So make sure to bring provisions. Across the bridge, in Nohwa’s Imok port, you can find many restaurants and cafes.

The ferry to and from Bogildo operates once every hour; the first one from Wando at 07:00 and the last one returning at 17:20 (timetable of October 2019).

Where to stay in Wando

I stayed at Wandonesia, a hotel near the harbor, offering a nice view of said harbor from the rooftop terrace. It’s a place I would recommend for whoever visits Wando: spacious rooms, nice hosts, good location. The cozy cafe on the first floor serves bagels with coffee or tea for breakfast (included). Only one thing to keep in mind: there is no elevator taking you to the rooms on the 3rd-5th floor.

Mokpo - day 17 - 18

Mokpo is a city in the southwestern part of South Korea, surrounded by islands serving as a protective barrier for the city against the sea.

Day 17 - Dadohaehaesang National Park, Haesin Cheonghaepogu Filming Set, Dosolam Hermitage, Duryunsan Mountain

In the morning you can pay a visit to the southern coastline of Wando for a stroll along the coast in Dadoheasang National Park.

From there, head to Haesin Cheonghaepogu Filming Set to watch the reconstructed (pirate) village where many films and series were shot. For example Haesin, Chuno, Rookie Historian Gu Hae Ryung and many more.

The next stop is Dosolam Hermitage on the mainland (west of Wando). With a walk of less than half an hour from the parking lot, you have a beautiful view of the rocky mountains and the surrounding area.

From there drive towards Haenam for a visit to Duryunsan Mountain. You can take the cable car or hike for 2-3 hours to reach the top for a beautiful view of the surrounding area, including Duryunsan’s eight peaks and if you are lucky, Hallasan on Jeju. In the provincial park, Duryunsan is part of you can also find many temples and traditional houses surrounded by mountains and trees if you follow the road south.

Afterward, head to your hotel in Mokpo. In the evening you can explore Pyeonghwa Square and see Mokpo Love Gate. For dinner or a drink, you can take a stroll over the Street of Roses.

Day 18 - Jeungdo Salt Farm, 1987 Filming Set, Gatbawi Rock

Today’s main attraction is Jeungdo Salt Farm and to get there you have to drive north of Mokpo towards Muan-gun and Sinan-gun. In Muan you can observe the Muan Red Clay Mud Flat and the vegetable farms on red clay before reaching Jeungdo Island via Saokdo Island.

Jeungdo is known for its Salt Farm and the related Salt Museum, Sea Salt Ice Cream and Salt Mirrors but my highlight of the day was Taepyeong Yeomsaeng Botanical Garden. In the botanical garden, you can see halophyte plants, a salt-tolerant plant with a reddish look that grows in soil of high salinity. Also present are the crabs and mudfish, famous for being the main ingredient of Chueotang (mudfish soup).

Cross the road after leaving the garden to watch the actual Salt Farms and take a picture using the salt farm as a mirror.

You can visit the Salt Museum in the old salt warehouse and watch the Superpower of Salt movie (in English) to learn more about the importance of salt. It is kinda long but as the rest of the museum is pretty much Korean only, this is the only information you will get.

Opposite the museum, you can buy salt souvenirs at the shop (big, bigger and huge sacks of salt) and try a Sea Salt Ice Cream with topping. Beware of the Mala topping: ginger, red pepper and garlic really don’t mix well with ice cream; I wish I had chosen fruit or matcha flavor instead. But give it a try if you feel adventurous.

In the afternoon you can visit the Film Set for the 1987: When the day Comes movie that was very popular in South Korea. You start at the bottom of the village that very much resembles villages like Busan’s Gamcheon Culture Village and Jeonju’s Jaman Mural Village. The shop that was used in the movie is right at the entrance. If you’re lucky, the shop is open and you can look inside and see the interior that was used in the movie. Take the stairs and wander around in the village, have a drink together with the locals in one of the cafes and enjoy the mural art.

Make one last stop on your way to your hotel at Gatbawi Rock, a natural sandstone and tafoni formation on the coast of Mokpo with a very interesting shape.

1987: When the Day Comes

In January 1987, a 22-year-old college student dies during a police interrogation. Under the orders of Director Park (Kim Yoon-seok), the police request the body to be cremated in order to destroy evidence. Public Prosecutor Choi (Ha Jung-woo), who was on duty on the day of the incident, denies the request and calls for an autopsy.

Interested? Check it out on Amazon.

Where to stay in Mokpo

I stayed at Charmant Hotel, because it was one of the hotels with the best reviews and a good price. Nearby the hotel you can find the Street of Roses with many restaurants and cafes.

Boryeong - day 19 - 20

Day 19 - Chaeseokgang Cliffs, Gogunsan Islands, Daecheon beach

The first stop today is Chaeseokgang Cliffs in Byeonsanbando National Park to see the stone cliffs and take a walk along the coast.

From there take the man-made seawall to the Gogunsan Islands, also dubbed by me: the Lofoten of South Korea. The seawall first takes you to Sinsido Island from where you can follow the bridges to Munyeodo Island, Seonyudo Island and Jangjado Island to admire the view of these rocky islands surrounded by sea. Seunyudo is also a good place to have lunch in one of the restaurants and to spend the afternoon as the scenery is beautiful.

After exploring the islands, drive on to your next hotel in Boryeong. For dinner, you can pick any of the restaurants near Daecheon beach and try your hands at grilling clams and other seafood (even the occasional pork belly) or try the still moving baby octopus sashimi. Fortunately for some tourists, many restaurants offer both fish and meat.

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Day 20 - Buyeo, Daedunsan National Park

This morning starts with a visit to Buyeo to visit the many historical sites in the area. A few of the must-see places are Busosanseong Fortress and Nakhwaam Cliffs overlooking the river and Gungnamji Pond. If you visit the Pond out of season then the area around the pond will look like a wasteland directly taken from a sci-fi movie (and perfect for Halloween). Most of the lotus flower plants were dead when I visited, but other types were just starting to bloom.

If you like exhibitions you can go to the Baekje National Museum.

Drive another hour east to Daedunsan National Park and take a cable car up the mountain; one of the best cable cars in South Korea! This park is really beatiful in autumn when the leaves start to turn red. The cable car helps you big time, but you still need to climb some stairs and rocks to reach the hanging bridge (Geumgang Gureumdari), stretching 50 meters between Imgeumbawi Rock to Ipseokdae Pedestal for a beautiful view of the area. Walk a bit further to get to the red stairs, perhaps the best-known visual representation of Daedunsan National Park and also a very impressive steep climb (but easy because you have handholds on both sides).

Where to stay in Boryeong

I stayed at Nova Motel near Daecheon beach and many restaurants. It was not a very interesting place to stay at (it had rooms with round beds which are very inconvenient for two people) but I don’t have anything bad to say about it either. The location is very convenient.

Suwon - day 21

Day 21 - Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, Seojangdae, Hwaseong Haenggung, Haenggung-dong Mural Village, Padalmun Gate, Pavilion

Leave the fortress in the south and head east to Padalmun gate, one of the four big gates of Suwon Hwaseong. The area around the gate and Yeongdong Market is ideal for buying some snacks or lunch during a day full of history.

Your next stop is Haenggung-dong Mural Village. There are only a few streets, but the paintings on the walls are impressive. End your historical tour in Suwon with a look at Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion.

For diner, I recommend heading to Hyanggyo-ro near Suwon train and subway station. There are many fun restaurants here and this area really comes to life at night.

Where to stay in Suwon

I stayed at Malu Hotel, near a bus line to Padalmun Gate and other places I wanted to visit. The vibrant restaurant area Hyanggyo-ro lies within a few minutes walking distance of this hotel. A stay at this hotel is recommended if you like warm hotel rooms: when you take out your room key, the room automatically heats up to 27 degrees Celsius. I like warmth very much, but even for me this was too much.

Time to fly home. Unless you have the luxury to add some more days to explore Seoul after this. Check out the must-see places in Seoul in my Seoul 7 days itinerary.

I hope I left you with plenty of inspiration for your own trip to South Korea! Let me know how it was.

Practical Information

Time your South Korea visit well

This journey is possible year-round but works best in spring and fall to avoid hot summers (monsoon) and cold winters (driving in the snow).

Tip: keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays like Chuseok unless you specifically want to join the celebrations.

Transport and navigation

This itinerary uses a rental car to travel between cities.

Navigating in South-Korea is easy. You can use Naver maps (Android / iOS) to find optimal driving and walking routes. When using a car navigation system, search for destinations by entering their telephone number (easy to find with google maps).

Itinerary budget

The costs depend on your budget. If you choose to use mid-range hotels your journey will be more expensive than when you stay in hostels. Likewise, if you rent a car it matters if you are a solo traveler bearing the costs alone (but lower total costs because the car can be smaller) or travel with family or friends and can share the costs. You can eat in expensive restaurants every day or buy some cup ramyun in a convenience store. Eating out in South Korea is not expensive, but certain meals are, like when you want to eat prime quality abalone or sashimi.

The costs listed below are based on comfort, but not too luxurious. By choosing cheaper hotels or motels (still with a private room and personal bathroom) in cities and more expensive traditional houses in rural areas you can adjust the costs as you like and still keep the average accommodation costs per night affordable.

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul: costs depend on where you live
Hiring a car (22 days): around 1400 EUR (1545 USD) for a mid-range car (for 3-4 persons). The total price of the car will be around 1000 EUR if you travel alone or with a party of two because you can rent a smaller car.
Gasoline: around 320 EUR (357 USD) in total for over 3000 km.
Toll road fees: around 20 EUR (22 USD) in total
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with the fare for the occasional bus or subway trip: 10 EUR (11 USD) per person
Ferry to Bogildo: 60 EUR (67 USD) retour costs for three persons and a car

Food

Around 30 EUR daily per person for 22 days: 660 EUR (729 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 EUR daily per person for 22 days based on a mix of traditional houses and motels: 880 EUR (971 USD) per person

Wifi

45 EUR (49 USD) in total for 22 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi I can find for many Asian countries.

Various costs like entrance fees and cable cars

Around 50 EUR (56 USD) per person.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in October 2019. It cost me around 2200 EUR (2453 USD) per person for a party of three, including all the above, but excluding international flights and souvenirs.

If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels and food) the total cost will be much lower.

What to read when visiting South Korea

Find out about the best Korean books with an English translation.

The post The south and west of South Korea: a travel itinerary appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Highlights of South Korea by car in three weeks: a travel itinerary

Kim — Mon, 09 Sep 2019 16:32:31 +0000

Tour South Korea in three weeks by car and visit all the highlights with this travel itinerary. From Seoul, the capital of South Korea to Sokcho, Jeonju, Busan and Jeju. If you are looking for a well-balanced mix of big cities, culture and nature, then this travel itinerary is for you.

Travel itinerary overview

Seoul – day 1 – 3
Sokcho – day 4 – 6
Andong – day 7 – 8
Jeonju – day 9 – 11
Gwangyang – day 12 – 15 (you can also stay in Suncheon or Boseong)
Busan – day 16 – 18
Jeju – day 19 – 21
Practical information

Use this itinerary if you want a comfortable trip. It’s not a quick see-it-all, but a well-balanced itinerary using one city as a base for exploring the area.

Have you seen all the above already? Then check out my lesser-known south and west of South Korea itinerary for second or third time visitors.

Click here to see the map for this three weeks South Korea itinerary in Google maps.

Seoul day 1 - 3

Day 1 - Myeongdong and Seoul Tower

Your first day in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Be prepared to visit the diverse neighborhoods: go shopping, try out the food, admiring the architecture.

After arriving, buy a public transport card and load it with 60.000 Won and head towards the bus station to catch a bus 6701 to City Hall. For first time visitors, the area around City Hall is the perfect starting point to go sightseeing in Seoul: two well-connected subway lines nearby and the Seoul train station within walking distance. At night you can walk to the vibrant area of Myeongdong for entertainment.

If you arrive early, visit Lotte Department store and browse the stores and supermarket.

Spend the afternoon wandering about Myeongdong, a popular shopping destination for cosmetics and clothes. This area is busy all day but comes to life at night.

When it gets dark take the cable car up to Namsan Tower for a nice view over the city. Afterward, head back to the street food stalls in Myeongdong to eat your first tteokbokki of your trip. The start of the cable car is within walking distance from Myeongdong. While walking you can see the lights playing with Shinsegae and Lotte Department Store. The Bank of Korea (opposite of Shinsegae) is also an interesting building to see; its ‘western’ architecture not quite matching the modern buildings surrounding it.

Day 2 - Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream

Tip for eating Korean food in South Korea

Many restaurants don’t open before 11 am. At least not the ones you can find information about online. But there are many small family-owned establishments that open early and you can see many locals wandering in.

Check my Search for breakfast in South Korea post for more tips.

On the road between City Hall and Gyeongbokgung Palace you can see the statue of King Sejong, the inventor of South Korean’s Hangul script. Follow the boulevard to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Admire the view of the old palace and take a walk on the palace grounds. Keep walking until you find yourself straight ahead until you reach the far end of the palace grounds. You will find yourself alone with ample photo opportunities. If you go to the North exit you can see the Blue House.

Turn back into the park and take the east exit towards Bukchon Hanok village. Wander around the small streets and visit a tea house for a traditional tea with snacks to show off your tea-making skills.

From there head towards Insadong; it’s all within walking distance. Visit the craft stores and Ssamziegil mall. If you’re up for some more tea you can go to Osulloc: a modern tea house.

For dinner tonight head towards the area in between Insadong and Chyeonggyecheon stream. This area looks best at night when all the billboards are lighting up the area. Try your hand at grilling your own meat.

Take a stroll along Chyeonggyecheon stream and turn right near Ganghwamun subway station to visit Kyobo Gwanghwamun Bookstore (open until 10 pm). Find out more about the most popular Korean books.

Day 3 - Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam

Take the subway to Noryangjin fish market for breakfast. Buy the fish you want to eat for breakfast and head to one of the restaurants with your bought fish to have it prepared for you.

Head to Samsung D’light and do the interactive tour to admire Samsung’s innovations. From there go to Apgujeong-ro in Gangnam for a walk along K-Star road and many luxury stores. From here walk to Garosu-gil (the ‘tree-lined street’) for a drink at Eighty seconds or if you want something less touristy, head to the area around Bongeunsa-ro 2 gil in Yeoksam-dong; my favorite restaurant and cafe area in Gangnam.

Where to stay in Seoul

What to read when visiting Seoul

See my Best Korean books to read before your visit to South Korea post to find out about the most popular Korean books.

More things to do in Seoul?

In my 11 Ways to Spend Your Day in Seoul you can find many more things to do in and around Seoul.
5 Best Cafes with a Mountain View in Seoul
Visit Daelim Museum in Seoul
Christmas and Christmas concerts in Seoul
Visit the Korean DMZ

Sokcho - day 4 - 6

Day 4 - Seoul to Sokcho - Garden of Morning Calm and Nami Island

Pick up your rental car in the morning. Visit the Garden of Morning Calm and see the blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snowy landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as a day trip from Seoul as the whole garden will be lighted and look like a winter wonderland.

From there, head to the ferry starting point for Nami Island and take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata.

If you have time left go to Chuncheon to try Chuncheon Dakgalbi or visit Gubongsan Mountain Observatory. If not head straight to Sokcho from here.

Day 5 - Sokcho Tourist Market, Abai Village, Naksansa Temple

Head to Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market for breakfast. Score some fresh sashimi or try numerous other snacks or meals in one of the stalls. If you’re wondering why half of the people you see are carrying flat boxes (sometimes six of them), head over to Mansuk Dak Gangjeong chicken stall and try their fried chicken (recommended!).

Take a short drive to Abai Village; a small village of North Korean expats. You can take the boat, but also drive over the bridge and park on the island itself. The village is small, but there is a lovely beach at the end with a nice view over Sokcho with the mountains in the backdrop. While you’re there try Abai Sundae, blood sausage with squid casing and filling

Follow the coast further south to visit Naksansa temple grounds, featuring many small buildings and temples, statues and a giant Stone Buddha.

Day 6 - Seoraksan National Park

Sokcho is famous as one of the gateways for exploring Seoraksan National Park. (And among a niche group: the first city in South Korea where you could play Pokemon Go).

Go for a hike to Ulsanbawi peak, Biryong Waterfall, Geumganggul Cave, Biseondae or one of the other routes. It is also possible to take a cable car to Gwongeumseong Fortress and take the stairs (10 minutes) to the top and admire the breathtaking view.

Where to stay in Sokcho

I recommend Seorak Pension. This pension is located in a quiet area between Sokcho and Seoraksan National Park. The Japanese rooms are quite big and clean and the owners are very friendly. When I was staying there they brought over Korean tea and iced tea when they saw me reading a book in the BBQ and picnic area next to the hotel. If you travel by car, you can park it right next to the pension. If you’re using public transport you’re probably better off nearer to the city center of Sokcho.

What to read in Sokcho

From Sokcho you can reach the Goseong Unification Observatory near the border with North Korea within an hour and Abai Village also has a link with North Korean expats. So my reading recommendation for this part of the trip is:

Masaji Ishikawa - A River of Darkness: One Man’s Escape from North Korea

About the treatment of someone stuck between two worlds. It makes you want to fix the world, but just like the main character, you probably won’t be able to do anything about it.

Interested? You can get your copy from Amazon.

Where to eat in Sokcho

The restaurant next to Seorak Pension: 고향민속마을 serves a good Sundubu (soft tofu soup) and also has good reviews in KakaoMap. I can also recommend their bibimbap with mountain vegetables.

Sashimi, fried chicken or snacks at Sokcho Tourist and Fishery Market.

Try Abai Sundae (blood sausage with squid casing and filling) in Abai Village.

>> Read more about Sokcho in my Sokcho Special

Andong - Day 7 - 8

Day 7 - Sokcho to Andong - Gangneung and Taebaek

Head to Gangneung to visit the Olympic Stadium used for the 2018 Winter Olympics. Afterward, take a stroll in Gyeongpo Provincial Park; a small wetland reserve with interesting sculptures. If you’re lucky the lotus pond is filled with lotus flowers again; in May 2018 it was one big mud pool.

From there on take the mountain road enjoying the scenery and stop in Taebaek for lunch. After lunch continue onwards to Andong.

Where to eat in Taebaek

There are many Korean BBQ restaurants in the area. I ate at 태성실비식당 and enjoyed it very much. The side dishes were good too.

Day 8 - Dosanseowon Confucian Academy, Hahoe Folk Village

Today will be all about culture and history. In the morning drive north to Dosanseowon Confucian Academy, the intellectual home of Korean Confucianism established in 1574. Not only are the buildings quite a sight to see, but the surrounding area is also beautiful. It is easy to imagine studying in peace at such a location.

Head over to the west of Andong to visit Hahoe Folk Village, a well kept open-air museum and have lunch at a traditional restaurant. Explore the traditional houses in the village and try some of the Soju brewed there. Other food tips: Heotjesabap (a type of Bibimbap eaten by the nobles), Andong Gangodeungeo (salted mackerel), and Andong Guksu (a kind of noodle dish).

Where to stay in Andong

For Andong, I just had to choose a traditional house for a hotel. I stayed in Nongamjongtaek, a building complex (originally a noble’s house) that has been passed on for generations from eldest son to eldest son. There are smaller rooms connected to the main house, but you can also end up with your own private building with a porch as I did. It’s situated at a beautiful historical location with a stream surrounded by mountains. The hosts were very friendly and caring. Traditional Korean breakfast is included (very good with many side dishes) and the lady of the house brought over home-made snacks in the evening. This is not a cheap hotel to stay at but for me, the experience was totally worth it (and you can compensate it with cheaper hotels/motels in other cities).

What to read in Andong

This book isn’t set in the Andong area (more in Seoul and China), but the main character partly grew up in the Andong area and uses Andong soju for commemoration service.

Yi Mun-Yol - Meeting with my brother

Narrated by a middle-aged South Korean professor, also named Yi, whose father abandoned his family and defected to the North at the outbreak of the Korean War. Many years later, despite having spent most of his life under a cloud of suspicion as the son of a traitor, Yi is prepared to reunite with his father. Yet before a rendezvous on the Chinese border can be arranged, his father dies. Yi then learns for the first time that he has a half-brother, whom he chooses to meet instead. As the two confront their shared legacy, their encounter takes a surprising turn.

Meeting with My Brother represents the political and psychological complexity of Koreans on both sides of the border, offering a complex yet poignant perspective on the divisions between the two countries. Through a series of charged conversations, Yi explores the nuances of reunification, both political and personal. This semi autobiographical account draws on Yi’s own experience of growing up with an absent father who defected to the North and the stigma of family disloyalty.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Jeonju - day 9 - 11

Day 9 - Andong to Jeonju - Andong pagoda and hot spring footbath in Daejeon

On the right side of Andong, you can find a sole surviving stone pagoda next to train tracks. Even though the pagoda on its own is not very impressive, with the traditional building behind it it’s quite photogenic. The main attraction here is to observe how modern buildings and facilities were built around it in not a very pretty way.

Take the highway and head over to Daejeon. If you have time you can park around Jungangno to go shopping. Otherwise, go straight to the Yuseong Spa area for a relaxing and free open-air footbath with hot spring water before you go on to Jeonju.

Day 10 - Jiff Film street, Jeonju Hanok Village

Go shopping in the area around Jeonjugaeksa 5-gil and head south towards Pungnammun Gate.

From there go east and you walk right into Jeonju Hanok Village. Admire the art, the crafts and the buildings. Take pictures with other visitors in Hanbok, Korean traditional clothing or try one on yourself. Rest and drink tea in one of the traditional houses.

Jeonju is famous for its food culture: especially Jeonju Bibimbap (with raw beef tartare) and tteokgalbi (grilled beef patties). At night the area with streetfood stalls really comes to life, so if you’re feeling adventurous (don’t worry, it’s safe) try some grilled cheese, octopus or chicken skewers, Moju, strawberry rice cake or drink infusions.

Day 11 - Deokjinho lake, Jaman Mural Village, Gyeonggijeon Shrine

Visit Deokjinho lake and park in the morning and take a stroll around Myeonnyun 4-gil, a street that is very much alive with university students.

Afterward, head to Jaman Mural Village to watch the beautiful murals and take pictures of the view over Jeonju Hanok Village. Try some Bingsu (shaved ice cream) while enjoying the view. For dinner, you can easily walk over to Hanok Village.

Where to stay in Jeonju

There are many good places to stay in Jeonju. I chose White Tourist Hotel because the rooms were spacious, it had a hotel parking lot and it was situated in a quiet area. You can also stay in Jeonju Hanok Village, but as I had just spent two days in a traditional house in Andong, I preferred a bed over the floor. From this hotel, you can walk to Deokjinho lake (via Myeonnyun 4-gil) and back and take the car or bus to Jeonju Hanok village and Jaman Mural Village. I also found a really nice café and a good Jeonju Bibimbap restaurant near the hotel.

What to eat and drink in Jeonju

Jeonju Bibimbap: in Jeonju they top the bibimbap with raw beef tartare (you can also choose one with another topping). I went to Hangukkwan for mine and can recommend this restaurant (near White Tourist Hotel).

Jeonju beef patties: all over Jeonju Hanok Village you’ll see restaurants offering beef burgers of seasoned meat, often served with pineapple and grilled cheese.

Snowing cafe (스노잉카페 본점): I really enjoyed this cafe. The drinks look pretty and the cafe interior looks nice. Visit this cafe to try some ice topped tea or coffee.

Jeonju street food: try grilled cheese, chicken or octopus on a stick, strawberry rice cake and many more snacks.

Gwangyang - day 12 - 15 (you can also stay in Suncheon or Boseong)

Day 12 - Jeonju to Gwangyang - Damyang Bamboo Forest and Gwangju Student Uprising monument

From Jeonju drive over to Damyang to visit Juknokwon bamboo forest to take a walk with the bamboo shoots towering over you. The forest can be quite crowded near the entrance, but as you follow the path it becomes quieter. There is also a garden within the complex where you can relax.

Your next stop is the Gwangju monument of the Student Uprising of May 18, 1980, when many students took up arms to protest against the martial law government. The sculptures are in the middle of a small park and show the desperation the people involved must have felt very well. If you’re interested to know more about what happened during the uprising, please check out the book and movie recommendation below.

You can then head over to your hotel in the Gwangyang, Suncheon and Boseong area.

What to read and watch before Gwangju

Han Kang’s Human Acts gives a close account of the killing that took place during the Student Uprising. It’s written from a student’s point of view and simply a must-read when you plan to visit Gwangju.

I don’t usually recommend movies, but for Gwangju, I’d recommend A Taxi Driver.

Han Kang - Human Acts

In the midst of a violent student uprising in South Korea, a young boy named Dong-ho is shockingly killed.

The story of this tragic episode unfolds in a sequence of interconnected chapters as the victims and the bereaved encounter suppression, denial, and the echoing agony of the massacre. From Dong-ho’s best friend who meets his own fateful end; to an editor struggling against censorship; to a prisoner and a factory worker, each suffering from traumatic memories; and to Dong-ho’s own grief-stricken mother; and through their collective heartbreak and acts of hope is the tale of a brutalized people in search of a voice.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

A Taxi Driver

A Taxi Driver is a very good movie, based on a true story, about a taxi driver from Seoul who does what he can to help a foreign photographer documenting what happened to the people involved in the uprising.

Interested? Watch it on Amazon Prime.

Day 13 - Boseong tea fields, Suncheon Drama Film set

Drive over to Boseong tea fields in the morning. If you’re visiting in May, see if you can plan your visit around the annual tea festival. You can walk around the tea fields and even go up for a very nice view of the surrounding area. Don’t forget to sample and buy some tea at the tea museum/store.

If today happens to be the weekday the big Suncheon outdoor market is open (every five days), head over to the market for some snacks. If not, go straight to the Suncheon Drama Film set to walk around reconstructed ‘50’s and ‘70’s streets. You can completely immerse yourself in the film set, but this is also a good opportunity to get both the old way of living and the new way (tall buildings) in one picture.

Day 14 - Yeosu and Dolsando

Go east of Gwangyang and take the long Yi Sun-sin suspension bridge to get a good view of the industrial harbor. The top part of Yeosu is filled with industry. But as you continue southwards you leave the industrial complex behind.

Stop in Yeosu city to have a drink or lunch in a cafe. There are some really nice areas giving you a good view of the harbor and the rooftops.

After a short break, go for a drive around Dolsando to admire the bays, the fishing villages and the land.

Read more: A day trip to Goheung peninsula

Where to eat and drink in Yeosu

In Yeosu you can find many cafes where you can have a drink and relax while taking in the beautiful view of the city. I went to the Rooftop Cafe (낭만카페) and can recommend it for anyone looking for a stop before you continue your road trip around Yeosu and Dolsando.

Various crab dishes like marinated raw blue crab at Naraebabsang.

Day 15 - Gubongsan Observatory and Suncheon Bay National Garden and Wetland Reserve

Drive to Gubongsan Observatory for a nice view over the industrial harbor and the northern part of Yeosu. You can drive all the way to the top, leaving only a few stairs to be climbed or park your car lower at a bigger parking lot to hike the last part.

On your way down make a quick stop at the stone tower and temple on your left side.

From there on drive to the Suncheon Bay National Garden. You can choose to park at the West or East gate, either is fine. The park itself is huge, featuring world gardens. You can walk for hours and still not see it all. It’s also a perfect place to bring a book and just read and relax in one of the many chairs, grass fields and so on. Every part offers a different seat.

Combine a visit to this garden with a visit to the Suncheon Wetland Reserve. I didn’t because I’d already visited wetlands in Gangneung (and my home country is pretty much all wetland), but if you don’t see wetlands every day this is definitely worth a visit. I might go there next time.

Where to stay in Gwangyang

I chose Hotel NOL (previously Hotel JAVA) in Gwangyang because I liked the idea of staying in a place that is less known among tourists and everything else (hotel availability and cost, location) matched what I was looking for. Next trip to that area I will be staying in a traditional house near Boseong. In Gwangyang there are many budget hotels to choose from (to compensate the earlier traditional house stay).

Where to eat in Gwangyang

I ate at three different restaurants in Gwangyang and liked them all very much.

If you’re craving Chicken Ginseng, try Daebok Samgyetang,

For beef bone soup (gomtang) go to 나주곰탕.

For Jjajangmyeon go to 햇찬 (it has a low score from two reviews, but this was the best jjajangmyeon I ate in my visits to South Korea plus they were opened at Whitsun, saving us from convenience store dinner).

Busan - day 16 - 18

Day 16 - Gwangyang to Busan - Tongyeong

Visit Tongyeong and take Hallyeosudo Viewing Ropeway (one of the best in South Korea!) to the top to admire the view of the sea and many small islands. If the sky is clear you can see all the way to Japan. With a small hike (around half an hour) you can reach the summit of Mireuksan and get an even better view. Have lunch at the market in Tongyeong and take a stroll along Gangguan Port to see a full-size replica of a 16th-century wooden warship. Buy some Fresh Honey Baked Bread for a snack or souvenir.

When driving on to Busan from there admire the scenery and the many small islands.

After checking into your hotel in Busan go for dinner at Nampodong shopping street and Biff Square. Eat some Ssiat-heottok (Korean fried pancake stuffed with seeds) as dessert. Depending on the time of your arrival you can also visit Gukje market.

What to eat in Tongyeong

Seafood bibimbap at a restaurant in the harbor of Tongyeong

Buy some Fresh Honey Baked Bread to take with you.

Day 17 - Gyeongju

Gyeongju is often referred to as ‘the museum without walls’, due to the many archaeological sites in the area.

Start with a visit to Gyeongju’s Gyochon Traditional Village to observe some traditional houses. If you visit out of season (and in my case on a Tuesday) many restaurants and attractions will be closed but you can still wander through the streets and watch the hanok houses. Parking tip: park at the parking lot to the left of the village for free parking. You have to pay for parking spaces outside of the lot.

Next to the village, you can find Woljeonggyo Bridge, originally leading to Wolseong palace, a royal palace of the Silla dynasty.

Northwest of Cheomseongdae Observatory, you can visit Daereungwon Tomb Complex to see the Tomb of King-Michu and Cheonmachong. Also interesting here hare the curved trees and fruit trees in the park.

If you have more time you can drive half an hour east to visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.

Alternative option: stay in Busan and visit Busan Citizens Park or Peace Park and go shopping in one of the many malls and shopping areas. This is what I did last year, but on my next trip, I will be visiting Gyeongju and add more tips and information to this itinerary.

Day 18 - Gamcheon cultural village, Haeundae Beach

Visit Gamcheon cultural village in the morning. You can park your car in one of the parking garages nearby. There are some trails you can follow, but it is just as easy to just wander and still see it all. This colorful village is very photogenic so don’t forget to take many pictures.

After your visit to the village, you can either drive over to Haeundae Beach or leave the car at your hotel to take the subway to Haeundae Beach. It all depends on what you want to drink with your meal (and there can be quite a traffic jam in the late afternoon, so the subway is probably more convenient). The area around Haeundae beach has many Western restaurants, but do try the Eel street if you are still craving Korean food after eighteen days.

Where to stay in Busan

I very much enjoyed my stay at Hotel Elysee: the rooms were spacious and the staff was nice. The hotel is located near Nampodong, the train station and a subway station; a very convenient base for exploring the whole city. You can park your car in their garage.

Where to eat in Busan

Fried chicken at Nampo shopping street, with Ssiat-heottok as dessert.

One of the many restaurants serving seafood in the small alley near Haeundae beach.

What to read and watch in Busan

The beginning of Min Jin Lee’s Pachinko is set in Busan and an island below Busan. By reading this book you can get some insight into Busan during the Japanese occupation.

Blood sisters by Kim Yideum takes place in Busan and is one of the clearest recommendations I can give for this city. I really liked the writing style and the references to art, culture and philosophy. I enjoyed this book very much, but it might not be for everyone because of the subjects and thoughts in it.

If you like zombie movies, then definitely see Train to Busan. The main characters are trying to reach Busan to be safe from zombies.

Kim Yideum - Blood Sisters

Blood Sisters tells the story of Jeong Yeoul, a young Korean college student in the 1980’s, when the memory of President Chun Doohwan’s violent suppression of student demonstrations against martial law was still fresh. Yideum captures with raw honesty the sense of dread felt by many Korean women during this time as Jeong struggles in a swirl of misguided desires and hopelessness against a society distorted by competing ideologies, sexual violence, and cultural conservatism. Facing this helplessness, her impulse is to escape into the world of art. Blood Sisters is a vivid, powerful portrayal of a woman’s efforts to live an authentic life in the face of injustice.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Min Jin Lee - Pachinko

In the early 1900s, teenaged Sunja, the adored daughter of a crippled fisherman, falls for a wealthy stranger at the seashore near her home in Korea. He promises her the world, but when she discovers she is pregnant–and that her lover is married–she refuses to be bought. Instead, she accepts an offer of marriage from a gentle, sickly minister passing through on his way to Japan. But her decision to abandon her home, and to reject her son’s powerful father, sets off a dramatic saga that will echo down through the generations.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Train to Busan

Train to Busan is a harrowing zombie horror-thriller that follows a group of terrified passengers fighting their way through a countrywide viral outbreak, trapped on a suspicion-filled, blood-drenched bullet train ride to the Safe Zone…which may or may not still be there.

Interested? Watch it on Amazon Prime.

Jeju - day 19-21

Day 19 - Busan to Jeju - O'sulloc Tea Museum

There are many flights from Busan to Jeju daily, so you can either choose to spend most of the day in Busan or head to Jeju early.

Drop the car off at Busan airport and enjoy the short flight. At Jeju airport, you can pick up your new car and drive over to O’sulloc Tea Museum (open until 7 pm) on the west side of Jeju. If you’re staying in Seogwipo or the western part of the island, this is a very good stop to make on the way to your hotel. However, if you booked a hotel in Jeju city, then explore the city instead and visit the Tea Museum some other time.

Day 20 - Hallasan

Hallasan is the highest mountain in South Korea and quite a challenge to hike. Imagine taking (uneven) stairs for more than three hours straight and then doing the same to go down. But if you make it to the top you are up for a nice view of the island. Plus it’s something you just have to do, right? Beat Hallasan. Try to do this on a clear day, if today is cloudy, do the activities for day 21 instead. If all days are cloudy then climbing Hallasan is still worth it because the area is beautiful enough on its own, even if you can’t see the whole island from the top.

Alternatively: go east and take a walk in Bijarim nutmeg Forest. From there on visit the Manjanggul Cave.

Day 21 - Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, Oedalgae rock, Jusangjeolli Cliff

In the morning head to Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak in the east, also known as Sunrise Peak. Don’t worry about the sunrise part, it’s also beautiful later in the day. Make sure to also visit the female divers after your hike and if you can watch one of the demonstrations.

From there head west past Seogwipo to visit Oedalgae rock and take a walk along the coast.

Next up is Jusangjeolli Cliff, my favorite site on Jeju. The stone pillars of the coast are hexagonal shape and beautiful to see.

Fly home at the end of this day or the next day, depending on what’s most practical for you.

Where to stay in Jeju

You can stay anywhere on the island: everything is within driving distance. I chose Seogwipo because I found a hotel (Artstay Seogwipo Harbor) matching what I was looking for. It felt a bit cheap to me though as the breakfast was mediocre, the two elevators responded to the same button request causing long waiting times and it was really noisy (because of buses full of school kids). So I think you’ll enjoy your stay better at another hotel in Jeju.

What to read in Jeju

The Island of Sea Women by Lisa See is a must-read if you’re planning to visit Sunrise Peak and see the women divers of Jeju. It helps you understand more about their skills but also about their strength in providing for their families under dire circumstances. Set in Jeju during the Japanese occupation it shows you Jeju from the past, including its traditions and ways in which it is different from the mainland of South Korea. It is also very well written and easy to read.

Lisa See - The Island of Sea Women

The Island of Sea Women follows Mi-ja and Young-sook, two girls from very different backgrounds, as they begin working in the sea with their village’s all-female diving collective. Over many decades—through the Japanese colonialism of the 1930s and 1940s, World War II, the Korean War, and the era of cellphones and wet suits for the women divers—Mi-ja and Young-sook develop the closest of bonds. Nevertheless, their differences are impossible to ignore: Mi-ja is the daughter of a Japanese collaborator, forever marking her, and Young-sook was born into a long line of haenyeo and will inherit her mother’s position leading the divers. After hundreds of dives and years of friendship, forces outside their control will push their relationship to the breaking point.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost is an interesting tale set in Jeju (and Hokkaido, Japan for a few pages) showing the imprint the Japanese left on Korean memory. The story isn’t linear, making it hard to follow at times, and the language is perhaps a bit dated, but if you’re interested in the history of that period (1948) it gives some great insight into the thoughts of the people.

Kim Sok-Pom - The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost

“The Curious Tale of Mandogi’s Ghost” incorporates Korean folk tales, ghost stories, and myth into a phenomenal depiction of epic tragedy. Written by a “zainichi,” a permanent resident of Japan who is not of Japanese ancestry, the novel tells the story of Mandogi, a young priest living on the island of Jeju-do. Mandogi becomes unwittingly involved in the Four-Three Incident of 1948, in which the South Korean government brutally suppressed an armed peasant uprising and purged Jeju-do of communist sympathizers. Although Mandogi is sentenced to death for his part in the riot, he survives (in a sense) to take revenge on his enemies and fully commit himself to the resistance.

Interested? Get your copy from Amazon.

Practical information

Time your Korea visit well

This journey is possible year-round but works best in spring and fall to avoid hot summers and cold winters (driving in the snow).

Tip: if possible, plan your arrival day on a Wednesday or Thursday for an optimal journey. This will help you avoid Jeju on the weekend when the island gets really crowded especially in the busy season. Also, keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays unless you specifically want to join the celebrations.

Transport and navigation

This itinerary uses a rental car to travel between cities and public transport within cities like Seoul and Busan. It is possible to do everything by public transport and cab if you skip some of the visit-while-traveling sights that are too time-consuming to get to without a car.

You can use either Naver or Google maps to calculate optimal public transport routes.

Estimated costs

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul and from Jeju to your hometown: costs depend on where you live
Flight from Busan to Jeju: from 50 euro (55 USD) per person
Hiring a car for the mainland (16 days), picking it up on Day 4 in Seoul and dropping it off on Day 19 in Busan: around 1200 euro (1318 USD) for a mid-range car (for 3-4 persons), including a one-way fee. This will be cheaper if you travel alone because you can rent a smaller car.
Hiring a car on Jeju (4 days), mid-range car for 3-4 person: 120 euro (132 USD) in total. This will be cheaper if you travel alone because you can rent a smaller car.
Gasoline: around 150 euro (165 USD) in total
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with fare: 20 euro (22 USD) per person

Food

Around 30 euro daily per person for 21 days: 630 euro (692 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 euro daily per person for 21 days based on mid-range hotels: 820 euro (900 USD) per person

Wifi

43 euro (47 USD) in total for 21 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi in can find for many Asian countries.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in May 2018. It cost me around 1920 euro (2109 USD) in total, excluding intercontinental flights. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels, food, flights and a smaller car) the total cost will be much lower.

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11 Ways to Spend Your Day in Seoul

Kim — Sat, 31 Aug 2019 07:48:18 +0000

Visit Seoul, the capital of South Korea and explore its many neighborhoods. This Seoul 7 days itinerary will show you where to go in Seoul.

After the Seoul 7 Days Itinerary you can find some additional ways to spend your days in Seoul: perfect for second or third-time visitors or for those looking to explore the lesser-known and less touristy parts of Seoul: have you been to Gangdong, Pyeongchang, Buam, Eunpyeong and Tongui?

Seoul 7 days itinerary

Below is a day to day example itinerary to see all the highlights of Seoul in one week.

Day 1 – Myeongdong and Seoul Tower
Day 2 – Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream
Day 3 – Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam
Day 4 – Day trip to Garden of Morning Calm, Nami Island and Chuncheon
Day 5 – Dongdaemun
Day 6 – Day trip to Suwon Hwaseong Fortress
Day 7 – Hongdae and Itaewon

Bonus days:

Gangdong and Hanam’s Gusanseongji
Pyeongchang and Buam
Eunpyeong and Goyang
Seochon Hanok Village, Seosomun Shrine History Museum, Seoul Station area

Practical information: budget and where to stay

Check out my Seoul 7 Days Itinerary map in Google maps.

Day 1 - Myeongdong and Seoul Tower

Your first day in Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Be prepared to visit the diverse neighborhoods: go shopping, try out the food, admiring the architecture.

If you arrive early, visit Lotte Department store and browse the stores and supermarket.

Spend the afternoon wandering about Myeongdong, a popular shopping destination for cosmetics and clothes. This area is busy all day but comes to life at night.

When it gets dark take the cable car up to Namsan Tower for a nice view over the city. Afterwards, head back to the street food stalls in Myeongdong to eat your first tteokbokki of your trip. The start of the cable car is within walking distance from Myeongdong. While walking you can see the lights playing with Shinsegae and Lotte Department Store. The Bank of Korea (opposite of Shinsegae) is also an interesting building to see; its ‘western’ architecture not quite matching the modern buildings surrounding it.

Day 2 - Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon stream

Tip for eating Korean food in South Korea

Many restaurants don’t open before 11 am. At least not the ones you can find information about online. But there are many small-family owned establishments that open early and you can see many locals wandering in.

Check my Search for breakfast in South Korea post for more tips.

On the road between City Hall and Gyeongbokgung palace you can see the statue of King Sejong, the inventor of South Korean’s Hangul script. Follow the boulevard to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Admire the view of the old palace and take a walk on the palace grounds. Keep walking until you find yourself straight ahead until you reach the far end of the palace grounds. You will find yourself alone with ample photo opportunities. If you go to the North exit you can see the Blue House.

Take a stroll along Chyeonggyecheon stream and turn right near Ganghwamun subway station to visit Kyobo Gwanghwamun Bookstore (open until 10 pm). Look here for a list of popular Korean books.

Day 3 - Noryangjin fish market and Gangnam

Take the subway to Noryangjin fish market for breakfast. Buy the fish you want to eat for breakfast and head to one of the restaurants with your bought fish to have it prepared for you.

Day 4 - Day trip to Garden of Morning Calm, Nami Island and Chuncheon

Visit the Garden of Morning Calm and see the blooming flowers in spring or summer, autumn leaves in fall or snow landscape in winter. If you’re visiting in winter it’s worth going there at night as a day trip from Seoul as the whole garden will be lighted and look like winter wonderland.

From there on head to the ferry starting point for Nami Island and take a stroll along the tree-lined boulevard famous from the Korean TV Drama Winter Sonata.

If you have time left go Petite France or Chuncheon to try Chuncheon Dakgalbi. If not head back to Seoul here.

Instead of going on your own, you can also book a day trip via GetYourGuide and have your visit to Nami Island, Garden of Morning Calm and Petite France arranged for you.

Day 5 - Dongdaemun

Eat breakfast at Gwangjang market. Try their mung bean pancakes, chicken legs and other food that catches your eye.

Head to Dongdaemun Gate and walk along the eastern wall and enjoy a nice view of the city.

Explore the malls in Dongdaemun. Especially Doota shopping mall is also worth a visit to try on affordable clothes from starting fashion designers.

The shopping malls are right next to Dongdaemun Design Plaza. From the higher floors of Migliore mall, you have a nice view of the plaza. It is very interesting to watch this beautiful building both during the day and the night when the flower fields come to live. Also, make sure to explore the inside of the Design Plaza as well; depending on when you visit there might be an interesting exhibition inside.

Day 6 - Day trip to Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

If you have time for diner, I recommend heading to Hyanggyo-ro near Suwon train and subway station. There are many fun places to eat here and this area really comes to life at night.

Day 7 - Hongdae and Itaewon

Visit the campuses of Ewha University and Yonsei University. The architecture is quite a sight.

Have lunch near Sinchon subway station and do some shopping. If you happen to be there around Christmas, this area will have turned into a Christmas market with live music.

Take the subway to Itaewon in the evening to explore this expat neighborhood with many foreign restaurants (and foreigners). Or if you took a liking to Hongdae, just stay there (I didn’t think Itaewon was all that interesting and I prefer other neighborhoods in Seoul over it) and hang out it the shopping and restaurant area around Hongdae Fashion Street.

Extra days or alternative options

The above itinerary is perfect for first-time visitors to Seoul. But for those visiting for the second time or those wanting a less touristy experience read on for alternative days based on my second and third visit to Seoul.

Gangdong and Hanam’s Gusanseongji

On the southeastern side of Seoul, just east of the Gangnam and Songpa lie the Gangdong neighborhood and the city Hanam. If you go there, you probably won’t see any other tourists. Interesting, right?

Start your day in Hanam with a visit to Gusanseongji, the holy shrine where Saint Sungwoo (Antonio) and eight martyrs were buried. It is a Christian religious site, but with a Korean touch to it: you can see it in the choice of sculptures and the use of the land. If you come by car, you can park in the parking lot right next to the site. Also interesting is the contrast the residences in the streets surrounding the shrine, that is: three-story houses very much like those in my country, form with the high white flat neighborhoods everyone who has ever visited South Korea is familiar with.

From Gusanseongji, drive or take a bus to the area surrounding Cheonho subway station in Gangdong. If you come by car, it is probably best to park in the Hyundai department store, as parking lots on the streets are numbered. Gangdong sightseeing starts at the mountain fortress Pungnaptoseong, which basically looks like a grass hill with a walking path in the middle of the city. In the streets surrounding it (around Baramdeuri-gil) you can find a market.

If it is about time for lunch, head to the Food Alley at Cheonhodae-ro for something to eat.

Walk east towards the Gampul Manga Theme Street. In the area, you can find mural art, but in a very small-town “we’re just living here”-way. So it is not the most beautiful mural art area but it is one of the most realistic areas you will see. The same goes for the rest of Gangdong.

Next up is Cheonhodong Rodeo Street; a shopping and restaurant street that is very much alive during the day and even better at night. It’s not a large shopping street, but it fits the neighborhood.

If you have some time left you can go shopping in the Hyundai Department Store or head straight to the Olympic Park in Songpa-dong for some relaxing and see the World Peace Gate and Mongchontoseong Fortress (or G-Dragon and Nike’s basketball court).

Pyeongchang and Buam

Pyeongchang-dong is the neighborhood that reminded me the most of drama sets of K-Drama’s: it’s the neighborhood where all the well-off drama families live. Big villa’s with gates hiding what’s going on behind. A walk through the neighborhood (uphill of course) offers a peek into a different side of Seoul. In the streets, you come across many museums and higher up you find Cafe Piano, built against Bukhansan National Park. This cafe has a beautiful rock garden and offers a nice view of the mountain and the city of Seoul. You can read more about this cafe in my post about the best cafes in Seoul with a mountain view.

From Pyeongchang, head to Changuimun Gate in Buam-dong to start exploring Buam. In the neighborhood, you can find many cafes, temples, historical sites and museums like Whanki Museum and Seoul Museum. Based on what you like to do, you can create your own afternoon program. Perhaps the most well-known cafe in the neighborhood is Sanmotoonge Cafe which was featured in the K-Drama Coffee Prince. The cafe offers a great view of the neighborhood, but also of the city wall going up the mountain, making Sanmotoonge also one of the best cafes in Seoul with a mountain view.

If you have a car (or more spare time) you can visit Bugak Skyway Palgakjung Pavilion just ten minutes east of Buam-dong for another good view of the city.

Eunpyeong and Goyang

In every neighborhood in Seoul, you can find a great number of interesting cafes. But the most beautiful are those at the outskirts of the city (or a little bit beyond), offering a view of one of the many mountains within the borders of Seoul or of the city itself. If you are looking for a day of peace and quiet away from the bustlings city of Seoul, then a cafe day tour in Eunpyeong and Goyang is the way to go.

The first stop is Eunpyeong Hanok Village, a newly constructed Hanok Village with beautiful and modern houses with a traditional style and look. Everything looks brand new but the residents did a good job infusing the neighborhood with the ‘Hanok’-feeling. Eunpyeong Hanok Village is a very good alternative (or addition to your must-see Hanoks list) to more touristy and crowded Hanok villages within Seoul, Jeonju or other cities. Best of all is that the village offers a view of Bukhansan National Park and can even be used as a starting point for a hike.

You can wander through the streets to admire the houses and visit Eunpyeong History & Hanok Museum to learn more about the area before going to the first cafe of the day: Myeonggeumtang Traditional Tea House, for some Korean Traditional Tea or another drink.

After exploring Eunpyeong Hanok Village, head to Jingwansa, one of the major temples in Seoul. The temple site is only a ten-minutes walk from the Hanok village and even less if you parked your car at the temple parking lot. Take a stroll around the temple grounds (or go hiking in Bukhansan National Park) before striking down at Yeonjiwon Traditional Tea House for another drink while absorbing the tranquility of the area.

From the temple site, take the car (or hop back on the bus) to drive ten minutes further north to Pointvill Cafe in Goyang. This cafe has a beautiful garden with a mountain view and a very good atmosphere, as the big amount of visitors and people lounging around all day prove. Time to join them for our last stop of the day. If you like reading, this is also a good cafe to bring a book to and enjoy reading with a beautiful view.

Seochon Hanok Village, Seosomun Shrine History Museum, Seoul Station area

Whereas everyone goes right after visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace (I pointed you right in Day 2 of this Seoul 7 Days Itinerary as well), going left is also a good option that will lead you to Seochon Hanok Village in Tongui-dong. This Hanok Village is not as extensive as Bukchon Hanok Village, but it is far less crowded and also offers historical houses, traditional Korean tea houses and museums.

Let’s start at Daelim Museum today. Depending on the exhibition this can be a very enjoyable or a less interesting stop. When I visited in October 2019, the Serious Fun exhibition was live and as the title suggests, it was a very playful exhibition which made it an interesting stop for adults and children both. There was a room with chess pieces surrounded by mirrors, making you part of the chessboard; a two-color room with white chairs and blue walls and many other rooms that play with colors and light. I enjoyed my visit to this museum very much and if the next exhibitions are as interesting as this one, then I definitely recommend a visit. And that’s something, coming from someone who doesn’t go to museums often.

Daelim Museum is also in the middle of Seochon Hanok Village. When exploring the narrow streets you come across many more museums, traditional houses and art galleries you can visit. Keep in mind that many museums and galleries are closed on Mondays.

I originally planned to go to Solgaheon Cafe for a herbal tea and a footbath but because it was closed I ended up at another Traditional Tea House (놋그릇가지런히) which turned out to be a very good choice: the Jujube Latte I had beats many other drinks I had during the trip and the grilled rice cake side dish is something I’m going to try to make at home.

For lunch, if you’re still hungry after drinking tea with side dishes, you can head to Tongin Market for a light meal.

The next stop is Seosomun Shrine History Museum and Seosomun Park. This museum is interesting because of the interaction between the artworks, the sculptures and the building itself. The architecture of the museum on its own is enough to warrant a visit. There is a lot to see and because of the size of many of the artworks, you feel like you’re one with the art. Seosomun Park, the park on top of Seosomun Shrine History Museum, has many nooks and paths to explore with sculptures of its own.

Walk south from the park to get to Seoul Station and the nearby Lotte Outlets Store and Lotte Mart to do some clothes and food shopping. Follow the Seoul Station Pedestrian Overpass, decorated with plants and seating areas for a good view of Seoul Station and a nice, relaxing walk. At night you can explore Namdaemun Market and find a place to eat in the area.

Practical information

Time your Seoul visit well

This Seoul trip is possible year-round, though you might want to avoid the hot summer. Keep in mind that many places like museums are closed on Mondays and/or Tuesdays. Avoid public holidays unless you specifically want to join in the celebrations.

I did this trip over Christmas, visiting concerts, Sinchon Christmas Market and watching the big lit tree in front of City Hall.

Transport and navigation

Estimated costs

The costs depend on your personal budget. If you choose to use a mid-range hotel your stay will be more expensive than when you stay in hostels. Eating out in South-Korea is not expensive, but certain meals are, like when you want to eat prime quality abalone or samgyeopsal (pork belly).

The costs listed below are based on comfort, but not too luxurious. By choosing a cheaper hotel or hostel you can adjust the costs as you like and still keep low affordable costs per night average.

Transport

Retour flight from your hometown to Seoul and back: depends on where you live
Public transport: buying a public transport card and loading it with fare: around 45 euro (50 USD) if you stay within Seoul. It can be more expensive if you do day trips.

Food

Around 30 euro (33 USD) daily per person for 7 days: 210 euro (230 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 euro (44 USD) daily per person for 7 days based on a mid-range hotel: 280 (308 USD) euro per person

Wifi

15 euro (16 USD) for 7 days. I always order via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest pocket wifi in can find for many Asian countries.

Even though you can often grab free public wifi, as this trip relies heavily on navigating your way around town it is very convenient to stay connected wherever you are.

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation (based on my trip in December 2017). Find out more about Planning a trip to South Korea.

Where to stay in Seoul

For my second visit, I stayed in Gangnam to experience another neighborhood. I chose to stay in Gangnam this time because it is in the southeastern part of the city and I wanted to drive east after picking up my rental car. Plus I was looking for a hotel at walking distance from one of the car rental offices for easy pick-up.

More about South Korea

Have you seen Seoul already? Great! Time to venture beyond the capital and see other Highlights of South Korea or the Lesser-known South and West.

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Seoul Archives - Where to Kim?

A perfect harmony of art and architecture at Seosomun Shrine History Museum in Seoul

Seosomun Historical Park

Seosomun Shrine History Museum (서소문성지 역사박물관)

How to get to Seosomun Shrine History Museum

Opening hours and tickets

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Dive into the future at Samsung d’light in Seoul

First floor (ground level)

Second floor

Basement

How to get to Samsung d’light in Seoul

Opening hours

Tickets

Read more about Seoul

Alternatives for a touristy Korean DMZ… or the swine flu

What is the Korean DMZ?

1a) Most popular: DMZ near Paju

Things to see

1b) While Paju DMZ is closed...

Imjingak Nuri Peace park

Location

Opening hours

National Memorial Hall of the Korean War Abductees

Location

Opening hours

Freedom Bridge

Location

Old steam train

Location

How to get to Imjingak Park?

By car from Seoul

By bus from Seoul

Join a DMZ tour from Seoul

2) DMZ at Ganghwa Island

Ganghwa Peace Observatory

Location

Opening hours

How to get to Ganghwa Peace Observatory

By car from Seoul

By bus from Seoul

Join a DMZ tour from Seoul

3) DMZ at Gyodong Island

Gyodong Observatory

Location

Opening hours

How to get to Gyodong Observatory

By car from Seoul

4) DMZ at Yanggu

Yanggu Unification Hall

Location

Opening hours

Eulji Observatory

Haean basin (punch bowl)

4th Infiltration Tunnel

How to get to Eulji Observatory

By car from Sokcho, Chuncheon or Seoul

Join a DMZ tour

5) DMZ at Goseong Unification Observatory

Location

Opening hours

How to get to Goseong Unification Observatory

By car from Sokcho

Join a DMZ tour

Christmas Concerts in Seoul and Online 2020

Table of Contents

Christmas Concerts in Seoul en Online 2020

THE BOYZ, VERIVERY, N.CUS

Kim Junsu

Oh My Girl

NU'EST Fan Meeting

Pentagon

THE BOYZ Fan-Con

AB6IX, VICTON, Lee Jin Hyuk, Dreamcatcher, A.C.E.

몽니 (MONNI)

K-Pop Music Awards and K-Drama Awards

노리플라이 (no reply)

짙은 (zitten)

Kim NaYoung

스탠딩에그 (Standing EGG)