Spain Archives - Where to Kim?

7x Food You Need to Try in Madrid

Kim — Mon, 07 Feb 2022 15:00:00 +0000

These are the seven most famous Madrid dishes and small bites; the food you simply have to try when you travel to Spain.

You can find all restaurants mentioned in this post in my Madrid city trip map.

1) Callos a la Madrileña

A visit to Madrid is not complete without trying one of their famous tripe or organ dishes (if you like those). You can try this dish at the tavern La Tía Cebolla (and many other taverns in that area).

Callos a la Madrileña is a Madrid-style tripe stew. Delicious, but with a very strong taste. I would have loved to share this dish with someone.

2) Tapas of Jamón Ibérico and Manchego

Enjoy tapas of Jamón Ibérico, Manchego cheese and olive oil at Mercado Jamón Ibérico. You can also buy some packages to take home. It is a small family-run establishment. The owners speak English very well. The quality of the products is really good. For me, this was the best tapas on my trip to Madrid; the other establishments I tried didn’t even come close.

3) Hot chocolate with churros

Many cafes in Madrid sell Hot Chocolate with Churros or Porras (‘bigger’ churros). The two most well-known shops are probably San Ginés and Los Artesanos. They’re pretty much in the same street, so you can visit the one with the shortest queue.

I chose to visit Los Artesanos because they offer a dark chocolate variant. The chocolate milk was delicious and made for a heavy morning meal that lasted me well into the afternoon.

Don’t try to visit after dinner, as the queue will be huge. 8:30 in the morning is a perfect time though: I was led to a seat immediately.

4) Rabo de Toro

Rabo de Toro is a traditional Spanish oxtail stew often served with potatoes or fries and some vegetables. Many restaurants and taverns in Madrid have successfully mastered the art of making this dish so you can take your pick in the city center. I got drawn in by the beautiful shopfront of Vulcano Brasas and chose to eat my Rabo de Toro there.

5) Tapas Basque style

On the Gran Vía, you’ll find Txapela, a restaurant that serves Basque-style tapas. While Basque food is not necessarily something you would think of when visiting Madrid, it’s also something you can’t order anywhere in the world. Just walk in and take a seat at a table or at the bar and order the dishes that look best on the menu. Since I was traveling alone, I felt very comfortable at the bar, with a front row view of the cold tapas assortment.

6) Sandwich with Jamón Ibérico

A sandwich with Jamón Ibérico (Spanish ham) is one of those meal choices that you can smell as you stroll leisurely through the streets of Madrid. Everywhere in the tourist center of Madrid you will see shops and cafes selling this sandwich in many varieties. For example, you can buy it cold or heated, with cheese and tomatoes or without.

I originally planned to start my trip in Madrid with churros and hot chocolate, but when I saw the tiny store Bocadillos Oink (open 24/7) on Gran Vía from the cab window, I was sold.

7) Shrimp croquettes and sangria

Every small dish sold in a tavern could have been on this 7th spot of the Madrid food list. The idea is to have a walking dinner in Madrid, eating and drinking in many different taverns such as Casa Toni, La Casa del Abuela or one of the many other taverns in Calle de la Cruz. The taverns can get crowded, so it is best to avoid meal times. Also note that many taverns close their doors in the middle of the day.

Sangria is a Spanish wine that consists of red wine, chopped fruit and some other ingredients and spirits.

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10 Most Interesting Buildings in Madrid (with locations!)

Kim — Fri, 22 May 2020 14:00:00 +0000

Where to find the most interesting buildings and sights in Madrid, Spain? You can read all about it here (including locations!).

I visited all these sites on my five days winter trip to Madrid around New Year’s Eve 2019/2020.

Of course, there are many more interesting buildings, but these are the ones that surprised and impressed me the most. As I came upon numbers 7-10 unplanned, they gave me this wow-effect.

1) Conde Duque

Conde Duque surprised me a lot and ended up being one of my favorite sights in Madrid. The building has a certain grandeur when looking at it from the outside. Once you enter the courtyard you feel the serenity of the vast space around you. Especially if you stand alone in the middle of the courtyard. A very peaceful experience.

Conde Duque is a Churrigueresque building in the baroque-style. Before it was converted to a cultural center it was used by the military as barracks.

Location: Calle del Conde Duque 11, Madrid, Spain

2) Edificio Metrópolis

The Metropolis Building is an office building, that was originally designed by Jules and Raymond Février for the insurance company La Unión y el Fénix and inaugurated in 1911. It looks elegant and huge at the same time.

Location: Calle de Alcalá 42, Madrid, Spain

Also read: Madrid in December: an itinerary

3) Almudena Cathedral

The Almudena Cathedral is a very impressive building from both the inside and the outside. It is right next to the Royal Palace of Madrid.

I saw Almudena Cathedral both by day and by night and I would recommend a night visit. The illumination makes the building even more beautiful. See if you can catch the sunset too!

Location: Calle de Bailén 10, Madrid, Spain

4) Royal Palace

You first enter the courtyard from which you have a nice view of the Royal Palace and also of Almudena Cathedral (behind the gates). The palace is a very impressive building.

Once inside you walk through the hallway with the decorated ceiling. This is also one of the only areas you are allowed to take pictures of. After the first few chambers, you have to put your phone away.

Every single room is lavishly decorated. Beautiful to see but I would dislike living there. I can imagine it succeeded at impressing visiting dignities.

Tip: buy a ticket in advance to decrease your waiting time!

Location: C79P+57 Madrid, Spain

5) Temple of Debod

The Temple of Debod is an ancient Egyptian temple dedicated to Isis of Philae. It was originally located near Aswan in Egypt and was dismantled and rebuilt in Madrid to save the cultural heritage after the construction of the Aswan High Dam.

You can find the temple on a hill west of the Gran Vía. If you visit during the day, you can enter the temple and look inside. However, the temple is most beautiful at night.

Location: Calle de Ferraz 1, Madrid, Spain

6) CaixaForum Madrid

A very well designed and eye-catching building both on the inside and the outside.

CaixaForum is a museum that is probably best known for its vertical garden, which is well deserved. The green wall next to the other brown walls of the building is a sight to behold. You can walk under the building and feel like you’re entering a crypt (an open-air one).

The stairs leading to the exhibitions inside have an industrial feel to it and the way the light plays with the silvery stairs causes interesting reflections.

Location: Paseo del Prado 36, Madrid, Spain

Also read: The Best Museums in Madrid

7) SGAE Sociedad General de Autores y Editores

The headquarters of the SGAE (a society for songwriters, composers and music publishers) is located in the Palace of Longoria in Madrid. This Art Noveau palace, built by the Catalán architect José Grases Riera in 1902, is a very good example of modernist architecture.

I found the ornaments on this building rather intriguing.

Location: Calle de Fernando VI, nº 4, Madrid, Spain

8) Ministerio de Agricultura

I took this picture standing on the path between Ministerio de Agricultura and Real Jardín Botánico that leads to Retiro Park. The red color is very powerful, especially because the building is situated between a park and many cream-colored buildings. Do also watch this building from the front, coming from Plaza del Emperador Carlos V.

Location: Paseo de la Infanta Isabel 1, Madrid, Spain

9) Religiosas Salesas Primer Monasterio De La Visitacion

I really like the contrast between the yellow and white building colors and how well the parish blends in with the rest of the structure.

The Order of the Visitation of Santa María founded its first monastery in Spain on February 18, 1749. The king ordered the construction of a monastery and church of great splendor and beauty, and their nuns were called “Salesas Reales”. The Salesas remained in this monastery until their expulsion in 1870, the building becoming the Supreme Court and the church a parish.

Location: Calle de Sta Engracia 20, Madrid, Spain

Also read: Convent of the Barefoot Nuns; the convent with the most beautiful interior

10) Patronato de Enfermos

Patronato de Enfermos was built between 1921 and 1924 by the architect Luis Ferrero Llusiá. It was a commission he received from the Board of the Sick, an association that had been founded in 1907 to help poor patients. The building is a mix of brick with stone masonry and Talavera tiles.

Location: Calle de Nicasio Gallego, 11, Madrid, Spain

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Best Street Art in Madrid (with locations!)

Kim — Fri, 08 May 2020 14:00:00 +0000

Where to find the best street art in Madrid, Spain? You can read all about it here (including locations!).

Madrid is a great city for art lovers. There are many great museums like Museo Reina Sofía and Museo del Prado. But art is not only in museums: it can also be found on the streets. While some of it probably counts as vandalism, other street art seems to be put there on purpose for example to promote a business.

Below you can see some of my best finds on my City Trip to Madrid.

Lavapiés - Calle de Embajadores 33

Lavapiés - Calle de Embajadores 53

At Calle de Embajadores 53 you can also visit Tabacalera, a great museum with street art located in an old tobacco factory. This whole street and also Calle de Miguel Servet has an abundance of beautiful street art. Too many to include them all.

Lavapiés - Calle de Miguel Servet 14

Lavapiés - Calle de Miguel Servet 17

Lavapiés - Calle de Embajadores 33

Lavapiés - Calle de Valencia 3

Lavapiés - Calle de Santa Isabel 16

Lavapiés - Calle de Lavapiés 24

La Latina - Plaza de Puerta de Moros

La Latina - Plaza de la Paja 4

El Madrid de los Austrias - Calle de la Almudena 2

Sol - Gran Vía 35

Conde Duque - Calle de Amaniel 20

Malasaña - Travesía de la Cruz Verde

Malasaña - Calle de San Bernardo 20

Malasaña - opposite Calle del Pez 28

Chueca - Calle de San Bartolomé 1

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Madrid in December: an itinerary

Kim — Mon, 10 Feb 2020 15:00:00 +0000

The capital of Spain, Madrid, is a lovely city. There are many neighborhoods to explore, museums to visit and local specialties to try. Example Madrid itinerary for December included.

December is a great month to visit Madrid.

Madrid, and Spain in general, is known for its warm temperature in summer and moderate weather in winter. But for your itinerary, it does matter if it is 40 degrees Celsius outside or 10.

So read on to find out more about:

things to do in Madrid in December, and to be more specific: around New Year’s Eve;
how to plan your sightseeing in the most practical way; and
an example itinerary for six days in Madrid. If you have fewer days, just select the days and sights you like best!

Madrid in December

A visit to Madrid in winter is not the same as in summer. The most important differences are that 1) there are fewer hours of daylight: it gets dark around 17:30, and 2) the temperature is colder. You’ll have to change your itinerary accordingly.

Tips

Plan street art and architecture watching before 17:30. Do it the other way around for buildings that are illuminated at night like the Almudena Cathedral and Temple of Debod.
You will spend less time sitting outside on terraces. I did spend some time relaxing in the sun, but mostly between 13:00 and 15:00.
It can be interesting to plan your museum visits in the morning and spend the afternoons outside when it is warmer. During my visit, the morning temperature was below 0 degrees Celcius, while the afternoon temperature was as high as 15 degrees Celcius.

Madrid around New Year's Eve

This is where you can show off your planning skills. Can you navigate your way around Dec 31, Jan 1, Mondays and Sundays?

Most museums are closed on Mondays (while Reina Sofia is closed on Tuesdays).
Some restaurants and markets (like Mercado de la Cebada) are closed on Sundays. But don’t worry about that too much as pretty much everything else is open.
Everything closes early on December 31. The shorter opening times are not visible on Google Maps and often not on the websites of restaurants and cafes either.
Museo del Prado, CaixaForum, Palacio de Velázquez, and Palacio de Cristal are open on December 31, though they close earlier.
Pretty much everything is closed on January 1. Some cafes, taverns and restaurants are open, like the 24/7 shops and bigger chain stores. You will have no problem finding food, but your options are limited. All museums and other attractions are closed.

Madrid itinerary

You can find all the places mentioned in this itinerary on my Madrid Itinerary map. Even though this Madrid itinerary takes December as an example, you can also use this in other winter months or even in other seasons.

Day 1 (Friday 27 December)

After arrival, head to your hotel to check-in.

Where to stay in Madrid

I suggest staying near the Gran Vía and Callao so that everything in the city center of Madrid is within walking distance. I only used public transport for a day trip to Cuenca and to go to the airport.

If you are looking for a budget hotel, then consider Hostal Valencia. Hotels aren’t cheap around New Year’s Eve, so that’s why I went for a more low-range hotel than I usually do.

The good

perfect location in the city center of Madrid;
single rooms available for solo travelers;
convenient check-in and check-out.

The bad

the only elevator in the building (for ~9 floors and many hotels) only holds four people at a time, so you will probably walk up and down the stairs a few times a day (to the 5th floor).
there is a club nearby that plays music until midnight (and until 4 AM on New Year’s Eve);
you’ll hear everything that happens in the hallways.

That being said: it was the best hotel around Callao I could find within my budget. I would consider this hotel again for a next trip to Madrid (and bring the noise-canceling Samsung Buds+ I’ll soon receive with my new S20 Ultra).

Lunch: Bocadillo de Jamón Ibérico

Buy your first sandwich with Jamón Ibérico; Spanish ham. One of the most advertised lunch options in the touristy city center of Madrid.

I had originally planned to start my Madrid trip with churros and hot chocolate, but when I saw the tiny Bocadillos Oink shop (open 24/7) on Gran Vía from the taxi window I was sold.

The sandwich was delicious and I bought many throughout my trip (whenever I don’t mention breakfast).

Callao area

Explore the area around Callao subway station and go shopping. There are many shops ranging from tourist shops selling Madrid souvenirs to mid and high-end stores selling clothes and luxury goods. You will find many brands that are well-known internationally.

When you’re done exploring the area south of the Gran Vía, you might want to head to the area north of the Gran Vía (Malasaña) for smaller shops selling unique goods.

Don’t worry if you can’t see it all this afternoon: you’ll cross these areas often.

Museo Reina Sofia

Follow the streets with shops and taverns from the Callao area towards Museo Reina Sofia. This museum is my favorite museum in Madrid because it has a very diverse art collection and is located in a beautiful historical building.

I recommend buying a Skip-the-line ticket for Reina Sofia, as this will save you a lot of time waiting in line. When I visited the museum on a Friday at 15:00 the line was short, but that might not be the case when you visit.

Las Luces del Real Jardín Botánico

You can watch the luminous fairytale landscape with Christmas light shows, impressive flora and illuminated figures at the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid. Real Jardín Botánico transforms into a light festival for almost seven weeks in winter. In 2019/2020 you could visit the garden from November 19 until January 6.

Please note that you will have to buy your tickets weeks in advance, or you won’t be able to visit the garden. The tickets were sold out when I tried and I chose not to join the very long queue at the ticket gate for a chance of buying a ticket on the day itself.

Dinner: Rabo del Toro

On your way back from Museo Reina Sofia or Real Jardín Botánico to Callao, you will see many taverns and restaurants.

I got drawn in by the beautiful shopfront of Vulcano Brasas and chose to have dinner there. Their Rabo de Toro, one of the must-try dishes of Madrid, is very good.

Temple of Debod

The Temple of Debod is an ancient Egyptian temple dedicated to Isis of Philae. It was originally located near Aswan in Egypt and was dismantled and rebuilt in Madrid in an effort to save the cultural heritage after the construction of the Aswan High Dam.

You can find the temple on a hill west of the Gran Vía. If you visit during the day, you can enter the temple and look inside. However, the temple is most beautiful at night.

Day 2 (Saturday 28 December)

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Museo Thyssen has a mix of historical pieces and contemporary art. The interior of the building is an artwork on its own: the checkered orange and white floor and the orange walls remind you of an Escher drawing. My second favorite museum in Madrid!

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour.

I joined the queue for Museo Thyssen at 9:45 on the morning of December 29 and got in within 5 minutes after the museum opened its doors with my pre-bought ticket.

Chueca neighborhood

Chueca is a very colorful neighborhood with many LGBT flags and street art. A fun area to explore. You can visit Mercado San Anton: one of the markets that is not overrun by tourists.

On your way to Andén 0 Chamberí, do make sure to walk by SGAE Sociedad General de Autores y Editores on Calle de Fernando VI. I found the ornaments on this building rather intriguing.

Andén 0 Chamberí

A subway station turned museum. It is a very small museum with the main attractions being the old ticket office and entrance gates upstairs and the wall tiles at the subway track downstairs.

You can’t reserve your ticket in advance, so you’ll just have to hope your timing is good. 1 pm on a Saturday is not a good time, I can tell you that from experience.

Malasaña neighborhood

Explore the small streets and colorful houses in the Malasaña neighborhood. The area feels authentic: this is what I expect of a Spanish city.

Conde Duque

Conde Duque is a Churrigueresque building in the baroque-style. Before it was converted to a cultural center it was used by the military as barracks.

The Robot Museum

A museum with many robots on display: from Pepper and Nao to the older InMoov and Retrorobot. During the tour, you get an introduction to the history of robotics. You learn about the earliest robots, perfecting movements, the use of robots in Star Wars and for educational and health/companionship purposes.

You can only join the tour and visit the museum if you book a ticket in advance. There are some English tours, but you have to be quick for those.

Almudena Cathedral

The Almudena Cathedral is a very impressive building from both the inside and the outside. It is right next to the Royal Palace of Madrid.

I saw Almudena Cathedral both by day and by night and I would recommend a night visit. The illumination makes the building even more beautiful. See if you can catch the sunset too!

I was impressed with the ceiling and architecture of the building. I think I spent ten minutes sitting on the wooden benches staring at the ceiling from all sides.

If you visit around Christmas, you can see the Belén (birth of Jesus) exhibition near the entrance of Almudena Cathedral.

Go outside and walk around the building (with the building on your right) to reach the entrance of the Crypt under Almudena Cathedral, one of the largest crypts in Spain. The crypt is built in Romanesque style and has over 400 columns. On the sides, you can see the twenty-plus altars with a stained-glass window and a variety of artworks.

Muslim Walls of Madrid

Opposite the entrance of the Crypt of Almudena Cathedral, you can find the Muslim Walls of Madrid. The cathedral was built on the site of a medieval mosque.

Tapas: Mercado Jamón Ibérico

The quality of the products is really good. For me, this was the best tapas on my trip to Madrid.

Mercado Jamón Ibérico is open from 10:00 until 21:00.

Mercado de San Miguel

I initially planned to have tapas at the Mercado de San Miguel. Tourist style, because everyone goes there, right?

But after the amazing tapas at Mercado Jamón Ibérico and seeing the huge crowd at Mercado de San Miguel, I ended up leaving the second market very quickly.

This market is too overrun by tourists. I don’t recommend visiting. Watch it from a distance, yes, but please enjoy dinner or tapas elsewhere.

Walk back to your hotel via Plaza Mayor (another tourist hotspot).

Day 3 (Sunday 29 December)

Breakfast: Hot Chocolate with Porras

One of the must-try foods (drinks) of Madrid.

I chose to visit Los Artesanos because they offer a dark chocolate variant. The chocolate milk was delicious and made for a heavy meal that lasted me well into the afternoon.

Don’t try to visit after dinner, as the queue will be huge. 8:30 in the morning is a perfect time though: I was seated immediately.

Royal Palace

I joined the queue to enter the Royal Palace of Madrid at 9:45. I did not buy a Skip-the-line ticket with a guided tour for the palace because I wasn’t sure on which day I would visit the palace. I wish I had bought one though, as this would have saved me more than half an hour waiting at 0 degrees Celsius (I got in at 10:20).

You first enter the courtyard from which you have a nice view of the Royal Palace and also of Almudena Cathedral (behind the gates). The palace is a very impressive building.

Every single room is lavishly decorated. Beautiful to see but I would dislike living there. I can imagine it succeeded at impressing visiting dignities.

Mercado de la Cebada

Mercado de la Cebada is closed on Sundays, but it was on the way to El Rastro and Tabacalera, so I snapped a picture of the street art on the building walls.

El Rastro

Head to the flea market El Rastro in the La Latino neighborhood after visiting the Royal Palace. On the way, you will see many interesting buildings, churches and street art.

I found the flea market itself very disappointing. Just like Mercado de San Miguel, this spot is too much overrun by tourists. You can hardly walk around, let alone pay attention to the goods the stands are selling. I didn’t see anything especially interesting. So this is another site worth skipping.

Walk through it quickly if you must.

Tabacalera

A museum of street art located in an old tobacco factory creating an intense harmony of foreground and background. The paintings inside are beautiful; that is, I liked them a lot. Colorful paintings of flowers, some more abstract than others.

The use of color forms a stark contrast with the gray industrial walls behind the paintings. Together they form the perfect picture.

Outside the museum, you can find many mural paintings in the area. Make sure you also walk through Calle de Miguel Servet just around the corner.

Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales

Also called the Convent of the Barefoot Nuns. A place of silence within the bustling city center of Madrid.

The interior is beautifully decorated with paintings, wood and rock carvings and sculptures. Especially the main staircase is very impressive, with symmetries between doorways and paintings and between art on opposite sides of the staircase. Every little detail has been taken care of.

You have to reserve a spot on the guided tour (in Spanish only) if you want to visit the monastery.

Late lunch: Shrimp croquettes

Head to Calle de la Cruz for an amazing lunch at Casa Toni, La Casa del Abuela or one of the many other taverns in the street.

Casa Toni was too crowded, so I went to La Casa del Abuelo and had shrimp croquettes and Sangria. Just enough to last until my next tapas moment.

Retiro Park

Enjoy a walk in Retiro Park: the central park in Madrid. In the middle of the park, you can find the Monument to Alfonso XII next to a small lake.

Nearby you can also visit Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal.

Palacio de Velázquez

Palacio de Velázquez has a grand appearance and deserves to carry the name ‘palace’. Inside the museum, you can see a few works of art from the collection of Reina Sofia.

Palacio de Cristal

This is a glass (‘crystal’) palace that looks best from the outside when the sun is playing with the glass exterior. I wasn’t impressed with the interior; it felt to me like I was locked up in a greenhouse with many other people.

Tapas: Basque style

At the Gran Vía, you will find Txapela, a restaurant serving tapas in Basque style. Take a table or a seat at the bar and order the dishes that look best on the menu.

Day 4 (Monday 30 December)

Day trip to Cuenca

Cuenca is a beautiful city with a historical city center at a two-hour’ drive from Madrid. You can also do a day trip to Toledo, Segovia or Ávila but I fell for the charm of the hanging houses of Cuenca and the nature reserves in the area.

I joined a Day Tour to Cuenca via GetYourGuide (a birthday present from my parents!). With that tour, I was able to see much of the area with little effort.

On the tour you will experience the following:

look through the Devil’s window at a house overlooking a gorge,
explore the Enchanted City and see the magical rock formations,
visit the old town of Cuenca, and
watch the Hanging Houses at sunset in magical Cuenca.

Day 5 (Tuesday 31 December)

Breakfast at the Brown Bear Bakery

This bakery sells good quality baked goods and has an attractive storefront. You can have breakfast inside or buy something to go.

Museo del Prado

Museo del Prado is one of the three best-known museums in Madrid together with Reina Sofia and Thyssen Museum. It is big, the building is magnificent and the museum lives up to its name.

The artworks on display are of the biggest artists in history. Many unique pieces can be seen in Museo del Prado with a collection ranging from sculptures to paintings. Instead of having a wide range of artists, it offers big collections from individual artists giving a very complete feel to your visit.

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour (it did for me).

CaixaForum

A very well designed and eye-catching building both on the inside and the outside.

CaixaForum is probably best known for its vertical garden, which is well deserved. The green wall next to the other brown walls of the building is a sight to behold. You can walk under the building and feel like you’re entering a crypt (an open-air one).

The stairs leading to the exhibitions inside have an industrial feel to it and the way the light plays with the silvery stairs causes interesting reflections.

Plaza de Santa Ana

You will cross Plaza de Santa Ana on your way back to the touristy part around Callao. The cafes at this plaza are far less crowded than many other plazas closer to the city center. If the weather is nice, you can have a drink and order late lunch.

I ordered Anchovies marinated in Salt and Vinegar: a perfect small dish to accompany my drink.

Spend the remaining time until dinner walking around the streets of Madrid spotting street art. Every attraction is closed because of New Year’s Eve festivities.

Dinner: Callos a la Madrileña

A visit to Madrid is not complete without trying one of their famous tripe or organ dishes (if you like those). You can try this dish at the tavern La Tía Cebolla (and many other taverns).

Callos a la Madrileña is a Madrid-style tripe stew. Delicious, but with a very strong taste. I would have loved to share this dish with someone.

Puerta del Sol

New Year’s Eve in Madrid is special and at the same time not that special. As in any big city, there will be many people in the streets to celebrate this last day of the year together.

The main festivities are at Puerta del Sol, but if you want to celebrate your New Year’s Eve at this plaza, you will have there go early. The police will only allow a limited amount of people to access the square. When I went there at 23:20, the road was already barricaded.

That being said, if you are traveling with family or friends, then anywhere should be fine as long as you are together. Alone it is kinda boring. From the area around Callao subway station, you will not see anything of the festivities. It is simply a waiting game until the person next to you starts counting back from 10 to 0 and eat his twelve grapes (a New Year’s Eve custom in Spain).

Day 6 (Wednesday 1 January)

Pretty much everything is closed today, except for some cafes and restaurants. You will have no problem finding breakfast, but it probably won’t be the best or cheapest meal of your trip.

The city center will be very quiet this morning, so use the opportunity to shoot pictures without people getting in the way.

Breakfast: cheese platter at Jamón 55

The Tapas bar Jamón 55 is one of the more interesting places open on January 1st. It is not the cheapest place, but they serve breakfast menus consisting of hot chocolate with churros or coffee/tea with sandwiches.

I wanted to have another cheese platter (the Dutch and cheese…), so I went for a regular menu item. It was not even close to being as good as the Jamón Ibérico and Manchego cheese platter of Mercado Jamón Ibérico. It was okeish though.

Parque Juan Carlos I

After a last stroll in the quiet city center of Madrid, it is time to head to the last destination of this itinerary. Even though most attractions are closed, many parks are still open. You can, for example, spend the afternoon in Retiro Park.

A more interesting option is Parque Juan Carlos I, as it is away from the city center and mainly frequented by locals. It is also a ten minutes’ bus ride from the airport, so it is a perfect place to spend the last hours of your trip. To get there: take subway line 5 from Callao to Canillejas and walk in ten minutes to the entrance of the park. You have to buy a public transport card to use the subway system, which is kind of a pity if you only use it for one trip.

A tip for New Year’s Day and other holidays: bus 827 takes you from the entrance of the park to airport terminal 4 from the Av.Logroño-Parque El Capricho bus stop. This bus normal comes every twenty minutes, but on certain days it changes to once an hour. This is not reflected on Google Maps. Please check the bus times before heading to the park on Spanish holidays.

Parque Juan Carlos I is a big park with sports facilities and playgrounds for kids, areas with different vegetation to explore, sculptures, a river and benches for relaxing. You can spend hours walking around exploring the park (doable with a suitcase) or strike down on a bench to read a book or simply enjoy the quiet. I liked this park much better than the parks in the city center because of what they did with the landscape.

What to read in Madrid

Anything by Javier Marías; an author from Madrid who writes books that take place in Madrid. I read one book by him and though the concept impressed me, his writing style is not for me. So judge for yourself…

Javier Marías - Tomorrow in the Battle Think on Me

“No one ever suspects,” begins Tomorrow in the Battle Think On Me, “that they might one day find themselves with a dead woman in their arms….” Marta has just met Victor when she invites him to dinner at her Madrid apartment while her husband is away on business. When her two-year-old son finally falls asleep, Marta and Victor retreat to the bedroom. Undressing, she suddenly feels ill; and in his arms, inexplicably, she dies.

What should Victor do? Remove the compromising tape from the phone machine? Leave food for the child, for breakfast? These are just his first steps, but he soon takes matters further; unable to bear the shadows and the unknowing, Victor plunges into dark waters. And Javier Marías, Europe’s master of secrets, of what lies reveal and truth may conceal, is on sure ground in this profound, quirky, and marvelous novel.

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Ben Lerner - Leaving the Atocha Station

Adam Gordon is a brilliant, if highly unreliable, young American poet on a prestigious fellowship in Madrid, struggling to establish his sense of self and his relationship to art. What is actual when our experiences are mediated by language, technology, medication, and the arts? Is poetry an essential art form, or merely a screen for the reader’s projections? Instead of following the dictates of his fellowship, Adam’s “research” becomes a meditation on the possibility of the genuine in the arts and beyond: are his relationships with the people he meets in Spain as fraudulent as he fears his poems are? A witness to the 2004 Madrid train bombings and their aftermath, does he participate in historic events or merely watch them pass him by?

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Ernest Hemingway - Death in the Afternoon

Still considered one of the best books ever written about bullfighting, “Death in the Afternoon” is an impassioned look at the sport by one of its true aficionados. It reflects Hemingway’s conviction that bullfighting was more than mere sport and reveals a rich source of inspiration for his art. The unrivaled drama of bullfighting, with its rigorous combination of athleticism and artistry, and its requisite display of grace under pressure, ignited Hemingway’s imagination. Here he describes and explains the technical aspects of this dangerous ritual and “the emotional and spiritual intensity and pure classic beauty that can be produced by a man, an animal, and a piece of scarlet serge draped on a stick.” Seen through his eyes, bullfighting becomes a richly choreographed ballet, with performers who range from awkward amateurs to masters of great elegance and cunning.

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Visit Cuenca as a day trip from Madrid

Kim — Fri, 24 Jan 2020 15:00:00 +0000

An easy getaway from Madrid: look through the Devil’s window, explore the Enchanted City and watch the Hanging Houses at sunset in magical Cuenca.

Madrid is a lovely city. There are many neighborhoods to explore, museums to visit and local specialities to try. If you are in Madrid for only a few days, then there is no reason to venture outside the city limits. However, if you are spending more than three days in Madrid then it becomes interesting to visit Toledo, Segovia or Cuenca as a day trip.

It is quite easy to visit Cuenca on your own: there is a high-speed train connection from Madrid’s Atocha train station to Cuenca that takes about an hour and a half. You can then explore the city and return to Madrid at the end of the day. It will be a bit harder to see other interesting sites in the area, as Cuenca is not a big city with an extensive public transport network.

I joined a day tour to Cuenca via GetYourGuide (a birthday present from my parents!). With that tour, I was able to see much more of the area with little effort. The guide says jump, you jump. The downside is that everything moves a bit slow with such a big group.

I’ll list the pros and cons of the Cuenca day tour at the end of this post. Overall, I did enjoy this tour and will consider joining other day tours via GetYourGuide in future holidays.

What you will see in Cuenca

With this tour you will visit the following sites:

Restroom stop in Tarancón
Devil’s window (Ventano del diablo)
Enchanted City (Ciudad Encantada)
Lunch in the modern part of Cuenca
View of Cuenca from many sides by bus
City walk in the old town of Cuenca
Hanging Houses of Cuenca

Road to Cuenca

You have to be at the meeting point at Plaza de Oriente in Madrid at 8:45 in the morning. From there you walk in ten minutes to some cafe and wait for the bus to arrive. I had to wait twenty-plus minutes for the bus to arrive (which feels like a very long time at -1 degrees Celsius). That’s probably my biggest annoyance with group tours: you spend a lot of time waiting.

On the way to Cuenca, the bus stops at Tarancón for a restroom break and, if needed, breakfast. It is a very basic cafe without any interesting food to try. However, if you venture outside and walk back to the rotund, you see the buildings on the picture above. This sight made the stop worth it.

On the bus, the tour guide talks about the history and current situation of the province you drive through. You learn about agriculture as the main industry, the low residency rate and the forests in the area. The explanation is done in Spanish first and repeated in English.

Devil’s window (Ventano del diablo)

You drive through Cuenca (skipping several perfect photo stops) and follow a mountain road to the Devil’s window. Here you have fifteen minutes to enjoy the view, take your best pictures and buy some handmade earthenware at the shop.

The Devil’s window gives you a birds-eye-view of the Júcar River. According to popular tradition, this viewpoint is the work of the devil. At the viewpoint, shaped like a giant skull, the devil supposedly organized witchcraft sessions and hurled those he didn’t like into the abyss.

No matter the origin, nowadays you can go to Devil’s window for a nice view of the gorge and the house on top of the cliff. I liked the view from the path (before you get to the viewpoint) better as you can take a picture of both the giant skull and the house on top of the cliff. The spot in front of the information board makes for a good viewpoint as well.

Enchanted City (Ciudad Encantada)

After a short ride, you arrive at the Enchanted City, a nature reserve with ‘magical’ rock formations. If you let your imagination run wild (the guide will help you) you can recognize all kinds of shapes in the rock formations.

A very long time ago, all these rock formations were below sea level. When the sea retreated, the limestone rocks surfaced and years of exposure to ice, wind, and water helped shape the limestone into persons, animals, and other objects. Nature still has its effect on the limestone and continues to change the shape of the rock formations.

With your tour guide (one for Spanish and one for English) you take a three kilometers’ walk through the nature reserve. You will see the most interesting rock formations and learn more about the vegetation in the area. There is ample opportunity for taking photos. The Enchanted City is a beautiful place to explore.

On the way back to Cuenca you can observe the nature reserve from the outside and see many more limestone formations, rocky ground, and diverse vegetation.

Lunch in the modern part of Cuenca

There are three choices for lunch: have lunch on your own, have a tourist lunch with the group or have a traditional lunch with the group.

If you decide to have lunch on your own, then they’ll drop you in a modern part of town with many bars and restaurants. This will also give you the opportunity to see more of Cuenca on your own.

If you decide to have lunch with the group, then the bus will bring you to a tavern in another part of Cuenca. There are separate tables for the tourist lunch and the traditional lunch. The tourist lunch starts with a salad, whereas the traditional lunch starts with interesting dip sauces (one egg-based, one tomato-based and one ragout like) and a meat dish. No idea what the dishes were called, but they were delicious.

The main course for the traditional lunch was lamb skew with potatoes, some vegetables, and mushrooms. At this point, I was enjoying my meal and didn’t pay attention to the other tables anymore, so I don’t know about the tourist lunch’s main course.

Dessert was a bit boring: profiteroles with vanilla ice cream, fruit or a third option I didn’t register. At this point, we were running out of time and the guide told us to spread out going to the toilet as there was only one toilet for men and one for women in the tavern.

House wine, sparkling water, and still water were included.

I’m a bit conflicted about the best choice here. Joining the organized lunch was very relaxing, but I felt like I missed out on seeing more of Cuenca. At the same time, the traditional lunch was very good, so I do not regret my choice. If you decide to have lunch with the group, then I recommend the traditional lunch variant.

Also keep in mind that lunch is served around 15:20, so make sure you either eat enough for breakfast or bring snacks to bridge the time.

View of Cuenca from many sides by bus

After picking up the ‘lunch on your own’ group, the bus takes a short scenic route from modern Cuenca to the top of the old town. Along the way, you see old farms and other houses built near the river with a big cliff towering over them. From the guide you learn more about how they are protecting these buildings with great historical value.

City walk in the old town of Cuenca

The city walk starts at the highest part of Cuenca so that you only have to walk down. If you do this tour in winter, the sun will be setting by the time you get there (17:30), giving a reddish glue to the whole area. In a way this is perfect timing, as the light of the sun is making the area more beautiful. At the same time, because there is not enough time to set up your camera for the perfect picture, the beautiful view will remain edged in your memory only.

The group splits into English speaking and Spanish speaking groups again and each group follows its own guide. The guide tells you more about the city and explains that many people are moving to the new part of town because the facilities are much better there. At a normal walking speed you cross town, making it a bit hard to take the perfect picture, as you don’t have time to wait for all the people to leave your frame.

By this time the street lights will be on, turning the city into a lovely city that gives off a warm and cozy feeling (even though it is only 2 degrees Celsius). At the end of your walk through town you reach the city square in front of Cuenca’s Cathedral.

There you get 20 minutes of free time to visit Cuenca Cathedral and visit the tourist shops. Alternatively, you can hop into a bar for a drink (or to warm up) or take your camera or phone to explore the small streets connected to the square (my choice).

Hanging Houses of Cuenca

At last, time for the highlight of the Cuenca tour: the Hanging Houses. That is, my expectations were huge, as this is the sight that is advertised the most for Cuenca. With the lights turned on you first get a nice view of the upper part of Cuenca’s old town where you started the walking tour.

Unfortunately, the most prominent hanging house was in scaffolding, so it didn’t look that great from up close. Moving on to the hanging bridge (which you previously saw from above) you can see the whole cliff with more ‘hanging’ houses. With the lights on, your 360-degree view is very beautiful. You can take a few minutes to take your pictures before heading back to the bus for the two hours’ drive back to Madrid.

I would have loved to see this view by daylight instead of by night. The Cuenca guides say the Cuenca city walk and hanging houses look best at night, but I would have preferred the day view. I couldn’t make great use of the golden hour light because there was not enough time, so for my pictures, it would have been better to do this tour in summer when you visit all sites before it gets dark.

Pros and cons of the Cuenca day tour

Pros

You see much more than Cuenca, as you also visit the Devil’s window and Ciudad Encantada. While it is quite easy to get to Cuenca by train (even faster than by bus) it is hard to see all the other sites as well.
Scenic views from the bus. Especially the route from and to Devil’s window and Ciudad Encantada is beautiful.
Everything is well organized: you don’t have to worry about a thing.
Information about the area.

Cons

Lots of waiting when traveling with a group.
You can’t get out of the bus to take pictures of nice sights or take your time to wait for the right moment to take the picture during the walking tour.
Because you don’t get to the Cuenca part of the tour until 17:30 (if you opt for included lunch) you feel like you hardly spend any time in Cuenca.
In winter, it will be dark (with illuminated buildings) by the time you get to Cuenca’s Hanging Houses. Though this is a very personal preference; you might prefer it that way.

Final thoughts

I can recommend this tour by GetYourGuide to anyone. It is well organized and the guides are knowledgeable. I didn’t join many group tours in recent years, so most of the cons I listed come from comparing it to traveling on my own by car. It is nice to have everything taken care of once in a while, especially after exploring Madrid actively on my own for a few days.

This tour is also suited for kids. There was a five-year-old in our group and that went really well. The pace is such that it is easy to follow with plenty of ‘outside’ moments where kids can spend some energy.

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Best Museums in Madrid

Kim — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 14:00:00 +0000

What are the Best Museums in Madrid, Spain? From Reina Sofia to Museo del Prado, but also Tabacalera and The Robot Museum. Find out more about them.

Overview of the Best Museums in Madrid

Museo Reina Sofia
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales
Tabacalera
CaixaForum
Museo del Prado
The Robot Museum
Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal
Andén 0 Chamberí

1. Museo Reina Sofia

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Art at Museo Reina Sofía. Which one do you like best? #museoreinasofia #reinasofia #madrid #museum #travel #art

Een bericht gedeeld door WheretoKim (@wheretokim) op 27 Dec 2019 om 9:55 (PST)

The best museum in Madrid has a very diverse art collection and is located in a beautiful historical building.

The building is huge with four floors to explore in the old building and a few floors in the new building. What’s best about the size of the building is that it makes your museum visit feel less crowded.

In many of the rooms, you’re allowed to take pictures, which I really liked because my picture gallery is part of my memory of the trip. Sometimes I simply gaze at art and let my mind wander, but I like to do the same after the trip with the artworks I liked.

My favorite collection was “The Task of the Painter” by Jörg Immendorff, a temporary exhibition you can visit from 30 October 2019 until 13 April 2020.

Opening hours

Monday, Wednesday – Saturday: 10:00 – 21:00.
Sunday: 10:00 – 19:00.
Closed on Tuesday.

Check out extra closing days on the website of Reina Sofia.

Tickets

Tickets are 10 EUR. Admission is free from 13:30 – 19:00 on Sundays and between 19:00 and 21:00 on the other days the museum is open.

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour.

When I visited between 2 and 3 PM on a Friday (Dec 28) the line wasn’t very long and it would have been alright to visit without a ticket.

Access

Address: 52 Santa Isabel Street, 28012, Madrid, Spain

2. Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

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Art at #museothyssen ******* #madrid #museum #art

Een bericht gedeeld door WheretoKim (@wheretokim) op 28 Dec 2019 om 12:23 (PST)

There is this whole area dedicated to Dutch painters showing Dutch landscapes of a few hundred years ago. For me, this was really interesting, though I couldn’t help thinking why they were here and not in the Netherlands.

Walking around felt very relaxing; partly because of the layout and decoration of the building but also because of the way the museum observers conducted themselves. It somehow felt natural, homey and less forced.

Many of the collections appealed to me and therefore this museum comes second place for me.

Opening hours

Monday: 12:00 – 16:00 (permanent collection only).
Tuesday – Sunday: 10:00 – 19:00.

Check out the closing days on the website of Museo Thyssen.

Tickets

Tickets are 13 EUR. Admission is free on Mondays.

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour. You can also reserve your timeslot for the temporary collection directly via GetYourGuide.

I joined the queue for Museo Thyssen at 9:45 on the morning of December 29 and got in within 5 minutes after the museum opened its doors with my pre-bought ticket.

Access

Address: Paseo del Prado, 8, 28014 Madrid, Spain

3. Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales

Also called the Convent of the Barefoot Nuns. A place of silence within the bustling city center of Madrid.

With the guided tour you walk past many alcoves dedicated to important religious figures. The guide tells you more about how the objects came to the monastery and about their use. In one of the rooms, you can see a collection of dolls brought by ambassadors from all over the world.

It is not allowed to take pictures inside, but in this case, that only adds to the mystery of the monastery. The sight of the staircase is edged into my brain. I highly recommend a visit to this monastery!

Opening hours and tickets

You can only visit this convent in the city center of Madrid by joining one of their morning tours for 6 EUR. They organize three or four tours on most days and you have to book several weeks in advance. Unfortunately, the tours are in Spanish, but joining a tour is worth it simply for being able to go in and look inside the monastery.

You can book your place on their guided tour online.

Access

Address: Plaza de las Descalzas, 28013 Madrid, Spain

4. Tabacalera

The use of color forms a stark contrast with the gray industrial walls behind the paintings. Together they form the perfect picture.

Outside the museum, you can find many mural paintings in the area. Make sure you also walk through Calle de Miguel Servet just around the corner.

Opening hours

Tuesday – Sunday: 18:00 – 22:00. Check out the website of Tabacalera for closing days.

Tickets

Free admission.

Access

Address: 28012, Calle de Embajadores, 53, 28012 Madrid, Spain

5. CaixaForum

A very well designed and eye-catching building both on the inside and the outside.

The stairs leading to the exhibitions inside have an industrial feel to it and the way the light plays with the silvery stairs causes interesting reflections.

There were two very different exhibitions during my visit. One from The British Museum featuring many objects from antiquity: “From the Assyrians to Alexander the Great”. And another with more contemporary art called: “The painting, a permanent challenge”.

I especially liked the second one with lots of colorful pieces that appealed to me.

Opening hours

All days: 10:00 – 20:00.

Check out the website of CaixaForum for closing days.

Tickets

Access to the building is free. Tickets for the temporary exhibitions are 6 EUR and can easily be bought on site. You can see the vertical green wall and the staircase without buying a ticket to the exhibitions.

Access

Address: Paseo del Prado, 36, 28014 Madrid, Spain

6. Museo del Prado

Museo del Prado is one of the three best-known museums in Madrid together with Reina Sofia and Thyssen Museum. It is big, the building is magnificent and the museum lives up to its name.

I placed this museum lower in the list because the type of art on display appeals less to me. I didn’t see as many pieces of art that I liked here, whereas I did see many in Reina Sofia, Thyssen-Bornemisza, Tabacalera, and CaixaForum.

The museum also felt crowded. Partly because it was the only museum open on New Year’s Eve day, but also because of the layout of the building. There was less room to wander off with every room leading back to the same main hallway. Big groups were passing through and I didn’t feel like taking a moment to stand in front of a painting I liked to explore the many aspects of it.

I did like the temporary exhibition of Goya’s drawings very much. If you happen to be in Madrid during this exhibition (20 November 2019 until 16 February 2020), then I recommend a visit.

Opening hours

Monday – Saturday: 10:00 – 20:00.
Sundays and holidays: 10:00 – 19:00.

Check out the website of Museo del Prado for closing days or reduced opening hours.

Tickets

Tickets are 15 EUR. Admission is free from 18:00 – 20:00 on Mondays – Saturdays and 17:00 – 19:00 on Sundays and holidays.

If you’re planning to visit in the morning, I recommend buying a ticket in advance via GetYourGuide. The queues get big and buying a skip the line ticket can save you up to an hour (it did for me).

Access

Address: Calle de Ruiz de Alarcón, 23, 28014 Madrid, Spain.

7. The Robot Museum

The tour is especially fun for kids as there is a lot of interaction and you see some robots in action.

On top of The Robot Museum, you can explore the Juguetronical store and buy some robot toys for kids and play around with some of them (secretly just as much fun for adults).

Opening hours and tickets

You can only visit The Robot Museum via one of their guided tours in the evening. There are about three to four tours every day and you have to book in advance. Reservations open at around two weeks before the tour date and the few English tours they have sell out very quickly. I joined a Spanish tour instead, but still booked a week and a half in advance.

On the day of your tour, you have to exchange your reservation for a real ticket of 5 EUR at least 20 minutes before the start of your tour.

Access

Address: Calle de Alberto Aguilera, 1, 28015 Madrid, Spain.

8. Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal

Palacio de Velázquez and Palacio de Cristal are two exhibition areas of Reina Sofia in Retiro Park.

Palacio de Velázquez

Palacio de Velázquez is at a prime location in Madrid’s central park. The building has a grand appearance and deserves to carry the name ‘palace’. Inside the museum, you can see a few works of art from the collection of Reina Sofia. The main point of interest here is the main hall with the light falling in from the ceiling to play with the works on display. The artworks are contemporary and you can watch them from different angles and even walk around some of them.

Palacio de Cristal

The building didn’t look as beautiful from up close but is well worth a visit if you look at it from a distance.

Opening hours

April – September: 10:00 – 22:00.
October 1 – 30 / 1 – 31 March: 10:00 – 19:00.
November – February: 10:00 – 18:00.

Check the website of Reina Sofia for closing days.

Tickets

Free admission

Access

Both palaces are at a few minutes’ walk from each other.

Palacio de Velázquez: Parque del Retiro, Paseo Venezuela, 2, 28001 Madrid, Spain.

Palacio de Cristal: Paseo de Cuba, 4, 28009 Madrid, Spain.

9. Andén 0 Chamberí

A subway station turned museum. It is a very small museum with the main attractions being the old ticket office and entrance gates upstairs and the wall tiles at the subway track downstairs.

Visiting the tracks feels like stepping into history. The draughty atmosphere adds to the feeling of abandonment. The wall tiles are colorful and nice to look at.

Opening hours

Thursday: 10:00 – 14:00.
Friday and Saturday: 10:00 – 19:00.
Sunday: 10:00 – 15:00.

Check the website of Andén 0 for closing days.

Tickets

Free admission.

They only allow 56 people in at a time. If the queue upstairs reaches the pedestrian crossing, then it takes over an hour before you can get inside. Had I known that beforehand, I would have skipped this museum: the 10-minute visit to the museum is not worth an hour wait.

After my visit to the museum, the queue upstairs was much shorter though, so perhaps my timing was a bit unlucky.

Access

Address: Plaza de Chamberí, 28010 Madrid, Spain

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