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Where to buy Japanese language books online from Europe?

Kim — Mon, 21 Mar 2022 15:00:00 +0000

Are you looking for Japanese language books to improve your Japanese reading skills? Find out how you can read or buy Korean books online from Europe.

In recent years I have collected quite a few books to practice reading Japanese using “real” language instead of textbooks. In Europe you can’t just buy these books in a shop and in many online webshops you can search for a long time without finding what you’re looking for.

Still, I found some good websites where I could buy my Japanese language books. I also started reading (samples of) Japanese books and manga for free online.

English translations of Japanese books (literature) can often be found at Amazon. In my post about the best Japanese books you can read more about the best translated books.

1) Verasia

Verasia is a Spain-based online store that sells a variety of books you can use to learn the Japanese language. They have textbooks from many brands, study materials for the JLPT tests, and also sell manga and Japanese literature. What I like about the product pages is that they often mention whether a book has furigana and which JLPT level it is suitable for.

Because it is not a Japanese online store, the selection is limited. But if you’re not too picky, you can find what you need. They regularly add new books to their webshop.

Pros

Low shipping costs (shipping three books from Spain to the Netherlands cost me 3.20 euros).
VAT is included
Fast delivery (few business days)

Cons

Offers a selection of books
Some books listed on the site are sold out
The prices of the books are higher than in a Japanese store, but if you include the shipping costs of a book ordered directly from Japan, the total sum is about the same.

2) Japanese Amazon

Amazon.co.jp has it all. Every Japanese language book you can think of, ranging from textbooks and literature to materials for Japanese children or JLPT test takers. Although the website’s navigation can be set up in English, you’ll have to use Japanese keywords to find what you’re looking for. No worries: if you know the Japanese words for grammar, vocabulary and Kanji, you can start your search in the right direction. Just click on a search result and then see what other customers are also buying or viewing. Another tip: search on Google for the Kanji for an author’s name and use that for your search.

Pros

Gigantic offer
Low prices
Amazon already withholds VAT, so you won’t be charged custom clearance fees in your home country

Cons

High shipping costs, so make sure to combine orders
Shipping takes a bit longer than with Verasia, but it’s still pretty quick

Also read: Japanese Kanji dictionary for Elementary school kids

3) Book Walker

Book Walker is an online bookseller of Japanese ebooks and digital manga. Their digital offering is quite large and what’s best: you can try out the books and manga before you buy them. Sometimes the sample is as long as fifty pages. This is ideal if you want to see if an edition uses furigana and if your reading skills are up to par with the difficulty of a book. If you want to save money, you could start practicing your Japanese reading skills by reading only these samples. Every now and then you can also get a manga volume for free. After you buy a book, you can read it in the Book Walker app.

To sign up: click on the green button marked ‘無料会員登録’ in the upper right corner of the webshop. You can then change the navigation language from Japanese to English and complete your registration in English.

Book Walker also has an English webshop where they sell English translations of Japanese books.

Pros

Good offer
Sample books before you buy
Instant reading

Cons

Digital books only

Also read: Core Japanese language learning materials for JLPT N3

4) CDJapan

CDJapan is a Japanese online store that ships internationally from Japan. Their selection is good and you can also use their proxy shopping option if you can’t find what you are looking for. Since they ship from Japan, the shipping costs are quite high, although the airmail option with an estimated delivery time of two weeks maximum is not so bad. Just combine your purchases in one larger order.

Pros

Good offer
Can search in English

Cons

High shipping costs
No VAT is withheld yet, so you will have to pay VAT and import duties when you receive your package. However, CDJapan is in the process of setting up a Onestop Shop system that will allow them to withhold VAT on their end, making them a better option for European customers. Until this system is in place, I will not be buying anything else there. At the time of writing this blog post, CDJapan estimates that the system will be in place in March 2022. So hopefully it will be there soon.

Also read: Japanese language materials for JLPT N4 and N5

5) European Amazon

Your local (or slightly less local) Amazon is a good option for buying Japanese textbooks. Shipping is fast and shipping costs are low or non-existent. If you are looking for literature or manga in Japanese, your local Amazon is not such a good option. They sell some bilingual books and Japanese editions of very popular books, but the selection is limited. Try searching for ‘Japanese edition’.

Pros

No or low shipping costs
Fast delivery

Cons

Limited selection

The post Where to buy Japanese language books online from Europe? appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Core Japanese language learning resources for JLPT N3

Kim — Mon, 07 Mar 2022 15:00:00 +0000

What Japanese learning language resources will take you from JLPT N4 to N3? Continue your studies with these textbooks, native materials, and websites.

I wrote a comprehensive list for N5 and N4 in an earlier blog post and I still use many of the materials mentioned in that post. To progress to the next level, I have added some N3-ish textbooks and materials. I will give you tips on how to learn at this stage from my personal experience. My learning method will not be suitable for everyone, but you will understand why I do it this way if you know my reasons for learning Japanese. If your goal is different, you can still use the resources in this list for the reading comprehension part of your journey.

Personal Story
Japanese Textbooks
More Kanji Focus
Kanji and Vocabulary Dictionaries
Japanese Grammar
Reading Practice
Final Thoughts and Learning Method

Personal Story

Just a few months after I wrote the N5 and N4 language learning materials post, the unexpected happened: I suddenly took my Japanese language studies more seriously and made it to the next level. I am now ready to pursue the N3 language proficiency level.

And by pursuing N3, I mean achieving a language proficiency comparable to what is tested on a JLPT N3 exam. I don’t plan to take any tests because I have no need for a certificate that proves my Japanese level. My reasons for learning the Japanese language are as follows.

Being able to read Japanese literature from the source. I want to experience complete immersion; something I can only achieve by reading books in the original language. Moreover, not every book by authors I am interested in will be translated. The number of books with English, Dutch, German or French translations increases every year, but the choice of those that make it to my bookshelf is unfortunately not up to me. Time to change that.
The wow feeling of mastering another language and being able to decipher a text that most people can’t make sense of.
Understanding at least the easy parts of conversations in Japanese TV shows. It’s always nice when you can still follow what’s going on if you look away from the subtitles.
And the main reason – my personal pet peeve and a source of lifelong frustration – making sense of the Japanese menu in restaurants in Japan. I have visited Japan twice, first in 2015 (Highlights of Japan) and then again in 2019 (Kyushu and Yakushima). On my first trip, it was really hard to order anything at all because there were no English-language menus in the offbeat places I visited and the restaurant staff often didn’t speak English at all. Google translate was the way to go then. On my second trip, even some of the offbeat places suddenly had menus in English, but they were often shortened versions of the full Japanese menu. Don’t get me wrong, I really appreciated these menus, but they led to some frustration. So I vowed that on my next trip to Japan I would be able to read the Japanese menu. Covid made sure I had plenty of time to work on it. Although I haven’t made any plans yet to master reading Japanese handwriting. Step by step.

In the past few months I finished Genki 1 and Genki 2, my Japanese textbooks in Korean and made my way through Basic Kanji Book Vol. 1. The above sounds like I went incredibly fast, but that’s not true. I did half of Genki 1 in 2015 and then did the same half again in the summer of 2021. Last summer I also read Tae Kim’s grammar and memorized the first 150 or so Kanji/Hanja for both Japanese and Korean. So I already had some passive knowledge that helped me move through the material faster. Now I find myself in new territory and I am excited to continue my learning journey. I’m moving full speed ahead to reading novels with full furigana or only furigana for the more difficult Kanji. With a few secret glimpses into novels without furigana: Yoko Ogawa’s The Sea (海) and Osamu Dazai’s Run, Melos! (走れメロス), I’m looking at you.

Japanese Textbooks

For N3, Tobira Gateway to Advanced Japanese is the way to go. Some consider this a big step up from Genki I and II because the texts are longer. I, however, found the change very refreshing. If you’ve been practicing with reading Japanese texts at the N5 and N4 level – either Japanese Graded Readers or something more difficult such as Harry Potter – the wall of text won’t scare you. I actually find most texts easier because the same grammar point can appear several times in a longer text.

In this textbook, you will find a wide variety of texts, ranging from informational texts to conversations, and from formal language to informal language. Following the texts is an overview of the vocabulary and grammar used in this chapter and some exercises. It is up to you to decide whether to study the vocabulary and grammar before or after reading the texts.

You can buy the supplementary Kanji book (Tobira Power up your Kanji) for more Kanji practice. In this book, you will learn about 800 Kanji: the 297 that the book assumes you already know and 503 others introduced in Tobira Gateway to Advanced Japanese. If you use other materials to learn Kanji, for example Wanikani or Basic Kanji Book Vol. I and Vol. II, the first few chapters will go smoothly because you already know many characters. This does not mean that these chapters are not useful: practicing writing kanji with different materials will only help you to memorize the Kanji. For me, it is absolutely necessary to write the Kanji as well, because only then do I look at the Kanji closely enough to be able to distinguish them from similar characters when I encounter them in texts.

More Kanji Focus

In my previous blog post about N5 and N4, I mentioned that I had quit Wanikani. However, after focusing on grammar for a while, I again found myself needing the SRS system that Wanikani uses to help you learn Kanji. I was off to a rough start because I was welcomed by the 12 levels of vocabulary I had learned 7 years ago, but after a month I regained control and started making progress again. Thanks to Wanikani and Basic Kanji Book Vol. I (see next), I was able to start reading native Japanese materials at a better speed than before.

In Basic Kanji Book Vol. I and Vol. II, you’ll find writing exercises and repetitions that help you memorize the Kanji better. What I like about these books is the grouping of Kanji: they are often grouped by meaning. This is very helpful if, for example, you have trouble remembering which Kanji for place/room/building is used in which words.

For me, it’s not a problem anymore since I own the books, but I still wonder if the high price of the books makes them worth buying. The main issue is that Vol. 1 and Vol. 2 cover about 250 Kanji each. I appreciate them as another way to practice what I have already learned, but maybe they are not necessary because you can practice the same Kanji through other sources.

Kanji and Vocabulary Dictionaries

I still use the same resources as I did for N5 and N4 because I chose books and apps that cover all JLPT levels from the start.

I have a Kanji dictionary (Kanji dictionary that Japanese children use in elementary school) that I value very much because of its depth. This book might not be for everyone because it does not contain any English so the initial learning curve before you can use it comfortably is very steep. I quite like this book as it helps with immersion and forces me to read Japanese. Also, it is very comprehensive and gives more information than books meant for foreigners. If you do prefer a book in English, check out Kanji Dictionary for Foreigners Learning Japanese 2500 N5 to N1.

Whenever I come across a Kanji or vocabulary word I don’t know and my paper dictionary is nowhere near, I look it up in the WWWJDIC dictionary app (for Android) on my phone. In this app, you can sketch the Kanji and get the meaning, stroke order, and words in which it is frequently used. I have tried many other apps, but I keep coming back to this dictionary. Unfortunately, this recommendation is not of much use to those of you without Android phones. Although I prefer to use physical books for many other things, I always look up vocabulary on my phone because it is faster and more flexible.

In the Obenkyo app (Android), you can look up Kanji by JLPT level and find out all the basic information you need to learn about this Kanji. It also has tests that will help you remember them.

Japanese Grammar

The Dictionaries of Japanese Grammar series consist of A Dictionary of Basic Japanese Grammar, A Dictionary of Intermediate Japanese Grammar and A Dictionary of Advanced Japanese Grammar.

These books give the best general overview of Japanese grammar. Since you are now studying at N3 level, it is time to move to the Intermediate book. This is the book I would buy if I didn’t already have a Japanese grammar book in Korean.

I supplement my grammar book with two free online resources that go into more depth explaining individual grammar points.

The first is Imabi. For each grammar point you look up, you can read about usage, spelling, contractions, and many example sentences. At this level, there is probably more information than you can use, but this does mean that this resource scales very well. If you are low on funds, try this free online resource first! The only downside I could find is that it might take a while to figure out which lesson you need to read. The grammar points are broken down into skill levels, but that doesn’t mean the lesson you are looking for is where you expect it to be.

Another useful free online resource is Wasabi’s Online Japanese Grammar Reference. This grammar resource is less comprehensive than Imabi, but what it does very well is group similar grammar points together based on their usage. For example, you can study the grammar for quotation or judgments and make progress in learning the nuances of each form.

Reading Practice

When I was at N5 and N4 level, I read Shirokuma Cafe and Japanese Graded Readers. I also own some other manga of which I occasionally read a few pages. I have now switched to Japanese books for children and young adults. I will share my book selection, but feel free to choose anything else that interests you. The basic idea is as follows: find a book with an uncomplicated story that uses furigana and another book with less furigana and a bit more complicated sentences. After N3 you can choose your first book without furigana.

For the first book, I chose the full furigana edition of Tenki no Ko (天気の子). This is a light novel that was also made into a film. Since almost all the kanji are accompanied by furigana, you can start reading it after N4 level. The sentences are easier than in Harry Potter (see the next paragraph) and the words used are common in everyday life. Even before I started Tobira Gateway to Advanced Japanese, I could understand the story without looking up words. Of course, I will look up many words because I want to learn vocabulary, but I will also do reading sessions where I do not look up words. You can find the furigana edition of 天気の子 on Amazon JP (physical), Book Walker (digital) or Verasia (physical).

My choice for a book with less furigana is the translation of Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. I bought this one in a Book Off store during my Japan trip in 2015 and I was quite happy when I discovered that it contains a lot of furigana, although less than Tenki no Ko. What’s good about choosing Harry Potter is that I know the story very well, but the downside is that the subject matter presents you with a lot of (magical) words you haven’t encountered yet. The grammar is easy enough, even though you won’t understand every nuance. I’m going pretty slow right now, but I’ll make faster progress when I master the basic vocabulary for this subject matter. Do be careful when buying a Harry Potter book online: many editions are without furigana. This hardcover edition is of the full book with lots of furigana (often the first time you come upon new words, though not for every Kanji). You can check out other hardcovers with this type of design if you prefer one of the other Harry Potter books.

Another great resource is Book Walker; a seller of Japanese ebooks and manga. You can view the first 10-50 pages of just about any book you look up. Not only does this provide a good reading exercise of many different styles, you can also assess whether a book is appropriate for your current skill level or if you’d be better off waiting until your Japanese level improves.

What I am working towards

The two books mentioned above I translate more than I read. A natural follow-up for these are the short story collections by Yoko Ogawa (The Sea (海)) and Osamu Dazai (Run, Melos! (走れメロス)). I also read that Sayaka Murata and Otsuichi are very readable for Japanese language learners. So I’ll keep these in mind for my N2 level reading material. While studying Japanese at N3 level, I will try to read a few pages of these books to measure my progress.

When you can read a book without furigana you are well on your way to mastering Japanese.

Final Thoughts and Learning Method

As you can see I am focusing on reading comprehension and my JLPT N3 resource list is geared towards that. If you are learning Japanese for the same reasons then this list will help you. I would recommend everyone to switch to reading native material at this stage and to let the sentences in Japanese literature guide your learning journey. The textbooks should take a back seat here and help you become aware of grammar patterns or nuances that you would otherwise be unaware of.

As you read, you strengthen your vocabulary, grammar and kanji knowledge. Nothing is better for memorizing than to encounter words and patterns in the wild. If you come across a word or pattern you don’t know, read up on this item in a grammar book or a (kanji) dictionary with examples of common usage. This is then your study topic for the day.

You don’t have to look up everything you come across, instead it’s better to pick your battles so that the story stays interesting. If you get distracted, that’s fine too. Your way forward is by mastering more kanji, vocabulary and grammar. That means spending time immersing yourself in real texts.

I’m curious to hear about your Japanese learning journey in the comments below. Do you have any tips for other readers?

The post Core Japanese language learning resources for JLPT N3 appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Japanese language learning resources for JLPT N5 and N4

Kim — Mon, 10 Jan 2022 15:00:00 +0000

What are the best Japanese textbooks and other resources for learning basic conversation, grammar, kanji, and pronunciation at N5 and N4 level? Get a headstart learning Japanese with these language resources.

This overview of Japanese textbooks and other resources is meant for those studying JLPT N5 and N4. For those of you studying JLPT N3: take a look at Tobira: Gateway to Advanced Japanese, which will probably be my next textbook. When – if ever – I reach N3, I’ll compile a list of resources for that.

Best Japanese textbook: Tobira 1: Beginning Japanese
Free Japanese textbook: Irodori – Japanese for Life in Japan (new recommendation)
Best Japanese grammar handbook: A Dictionary of Basic Japanese Grammar
Best Kanji resources: Dictionary, apps and book
Useful Japanese vocabulary resource: Synonyms / antonyms / homonyms / kanji readings book
Best Japanese vocabulary dictionary: WWWJDIC
Best free Japanese reading material: Todai and Tadoku
Free learning materials for Japanese school kids: Happylilac
Best (free) online course for learning Japanese: Irodori

Best Japanese textbook: Tobira 1: Beginning Japanese

Among those starting out with Japanese, the most popular books are Genki (I and II), Minna no Nihongo and Tobira. I used Genki I, but I think the other methods would work just as well. Tobira (one of the go-to textbooks for N3) has recently published its own N5/N4 book: Tobira 1: Beginning Japanese. Looking at the Tobira’s sample pages, I think I would prefer Tobira over Genki if I were to begin my Japanese learning journey today because I like the layout, explanations and content.

Some thoughts about Genki I

What I like about Genki – an integrated course in elementary Japanese:

The pace is good and you learn many new things in each chapter.
It uses hiragana / katakana / Kanji from the start. Although there is romanization of hiragana and katakana in the first chapters, I recommend learning these scripts through another resource before you start with Genki.

What I like less about Genki – an integrated course in elementary Japanese:

The new grammar you learn is usually not paired with similar grammar points. For someone who enjoys learning grammar, this is not very pleasant.
You need another resource to keep up with the Kanji. Most Kanji have furigana, but at some point you want to stop looking at the furigana and learn to recognize the Kanji.
Many of the exercises are intended for classroom use, but you can do most of them on your own.

What other books do I use?

I mix Genki I with Korean textbooks for learning Japanese (일본어 초급 단숨에 따라잡기 and the 중급 version). Since Korean and Japanese are more similar than English and Japanese, I find it much easier to have Japanese compared to the former. A comparison to English requires a lengthy explanation because the sentence structure is so different, but for a comparison to Korean, it is often sufficient to mention the grammar or vocabulary in the other language. The Korean textbooks are more concise with fewer exercises and I go through the basic material much faster. For those of you who know intermediate Korean, I recommend Korean textbooks for learning Japanese.

Also read: Best Textbooks for Learning Korean

Free Japanese textbook: Irodori - Japanese for Life in Japan (new recommendation)

Irodori: Japanese for Life in Japan is a free Japanese textbook series for people who are living in Japan, or who will be living in Japan in the future. It teaches Japanese for different daily situations in Japan, including working, shopping, having fun, eating, and interacting with other people.

This method consists of three textbooks including mp3 up to and including A2 level. You can also download bundled grammar notes, kanji reading exercises, tips for living in Japan, and word lists.

It looks perfect for self-study: you can do the exercises on your own, all the materials are available and the books are pleasant to look at. When I continue my Japanese self-study I will work through some chapters from Irodori.

Best Japanese grammar handbook: A Dictionary of Basic Japanese Grammar

The Dictionaries of Japanese Grammar series consist of A Dictionary of Basic Japanese Grammar, A Dictionary of Intermediate Japanese Grammar and A Dictionary of Advanced Japanese Grammar.

These books give the best general overview of Japanese grammar. Of course, you only need the basic one to get started.

A free resource to get you started is Tae Kim’s Guide to Learning Japanese. This is a very comprehensive guide to basic Japanese grammar. It is easy to read and follow and perfect for getting you started with the basics. There might be some errors in the guide, but none too bad if you use it at this level.

What other book do I use?

I use a Japanese grammar book in Korean (일본어 문법 학원으로 끝내기) for reference. As with the textbooks, I really like the ordering of the Korean book; it seems more natural to me. There is less explanation in this book, but at this level it is enough.

Best Kanji resources: Dictionary, apps and book

There are many online resources for learning Kanji. Many years ago, I started with Wanikani, a tool that helps you memorize the meaning of Kanji. Although it did what it promised (and is very addictive!), I noticed that I was focusing too much on recognizing Kanji and neglected studying grammar, conversation and vocabulary. So I chose a less addictive Kanji training method to support my Japanese learning journey, namely the Obenkyo app.

In the Obenkyo app (Android), you can look up Kanji by JLPT level and find out all the basic information you need to learn about this Kanji. It also has tests that will help you remember them.

Whenever I come across a Kanji I don’t know, I look it up in the WWWJDIC dictionary app (for Android) on my phone. In this app, you can sketch the Kanji and get the meaning, stroke order, and words in which it is frequently used. I have tried many other apps, but I keep coming back to this dictionary.

Then I got to the point where my Kanji knowledge was lagging behind my grammar and vocabulary and I needed to focus a little more on Kanji. I looked at many learning methods, but was never satisfied with the scope of the books as they often focused on a small amount of Kanji. I wanted a book that would last me a long time and I ended up buying a Kanji dictionary that Japanese children use in elementary school. I quite like this book as it helps with immersion and forces me to read Japanese. Also, it is very comprehensive and gives more information than books meant for foreigners. If you do prefer a book in English, check out Kanji Dictionary for Foreigners Learning Japanese 2500 N5 to N1. As you can see, I prefer very complete resources over guided learning methods.

How do I learn Kanji?

If I stumble upon a Kanji I don’t know or keep seeing a particular Kanji I want to know more about, I look it up in a dictionary and study its stroke order and frequent usage. From there I look for similar looking Kanji to learn how to tell them apart and search for homonyms to also study those as well. The book in the next topic will help you tell Kanji readings apart.

These days my learning is guided by chapters from textbooks and reading above my level in the Todai news app, manga or Harry Potter.

As soon as I master N5 and N4 level, I will however buy Tobira’s Power Up Your Kanji for better memorization.

Useful Japanese vocabulary resource: Synonyms / antonyms / homonyms / kanji readings book

I have not yet reached the point where I make vocabulary my main focus. For now, grammar and Kanji take precedence in my study sessions.

I did buy a book about synonyms, anonyms and homonyms, because I wanted to have a good overview of some words that I have a hard time telling apart. It’s a great book for that purpose, as you can read in my review.

Whenever I want to practice vocabulary the ‘easy way’ I turn to Memrise or Anki.

Best Japanese vocabulary dictionary: WWWJDIC

I must admit that this recommendation is not of much use to those of you without Android phones, but WWWJDIC is the vocabulary dictionary I like best. Although I prefer to use physical books for many other things, I always look up vocabulary on my phone because it is faster and more flexible. In this dictionary app, I can sketch the Kanji, type in Japanese or type in English.

Best free Japanese reading material: Todai and Tadoku

As soon as I know the very basics of a language (studying N5) I start reading in that language. For this purpose, the free Todai Easy Japanese News app (Android or iOS) is perfect because it helps you with all vocabulary and grammar you don’t know. If you pick a news article that is heavy with N5 material, you can get started right away. When your Japanese improves, you can change the settings to receive less help with the things you have learned.

Tadoku.org is a great resource with free short stories that you can download as pdf. I can’t think of a reason not to use it.

If you prefer physical books, check out Japanese Graded Readers. They are quite expensive though and I would not buy level 0 as you can easily find free resources online for this level. Level 1 and 2 can be interesting though and after that you can switch to real Japanese sources.

When you are close to mastering N4, you can take a look at some free manga in the Manga Zero app (Android or iOS). Most manga will be way too complicated, but there are some easier ones that you can use to challenge yourself. For manga, you can also take a look at Shirokuma Cafe which you can read at N5 level.

Free learning materials for Japanese school kids: Happylilac

At happylilac.net you can download free language learning materials that are used in Japanese elementary school and middle school. The website and materials are in Japanese, but once you know where to find the resources you like, it is easy to navigate. Another option is to have Chrome translate the website for you.

What’s really fun about this website is that it also contains learning materials for other subjects like math and science. But you’ll probably focus on the Japanese language material. I especially like the worksheets for reading comprehension, grammar and vocabulary. Answers to the worksheets and tests are also provided.

Best (free) online course for learning Japanese: Irodori

Irodori not only offers free textbooks, it also has a free online course.

That’s it: a book or resource for every category to help you learn Japanese at JLPT N5 and N4 level. What is your favorite Japanese textbook or resource?

The post Japanese language learning resources for JLPT N5 and N4 appeared first on Where to Kim?.

Review: Japanese Kanji Dictionary for Elementary School Kids

Kim — Wed, 30 Jun 2021 14:00:00 +0000

The New Rainbow Elementary School Japanese Kanji Dictionary (Japanese title: 新レインボー小学漢字辞典　改訂第６版　小型版) is a great resource for Japanese language learners. You’ll learn more about Kanji in no time.

Use this Kanji dictionary to look up Japanese characters and study their many meanings and readings, as well as the idioms in which they are most commonly used.

Japanese level

As this book is intended for Japanese elementary school students, it is 100% in Japanese. You can start using it (with a dictionary) if you are studying for the JLPT N4 level. The grammar used in the explanations is simple, the sentences are short, and the kanji mentioned in the explanations have furigana.

And by “start using it” I really mean start using it. At first, you look up the Kanji to find out about their pronunciation and words in which they are often used, so you can look up the Kanji in another dictionary app. Later, you can use the dictionary to study individual Kanji to learn more about their meaning and usage.

This dictionary contains 3150 Kanji including the 1026 Kanji that Japanese kids learn at elementary school and the most common Kanji for personal names. As a Japanese learner, you can comfortably use this dictionary for a very long time.

Content

Let’s take a look inside.

Finding Kanji

The Kanji are ordered by radical and the radicals are ordered by stroke number. You look up characters by determining the radical of the Kanji and then counting the strokes of that radical. The book will often help you if you are trying to look up a character under the wrong radical as it lists references to some other characters that fall under a different radical but contain the element you are looking at. Every radical entry begins with a brief index of the characters included in that section and their page numbers. At the top of the page, you can see the other radicals with the same amount of strokes, which helps you navigate within that section of the book.

Indexes

You can use the above method if you are fairly sure about the radical of a Kanji or if you are just exploring what’s out there. In most cases, you will look up a character in one of the twelve indexes at the beginning of the book.

部首 – An index of the radicals. This index also shows the alternative shapes of the radicals when they are found on the side
音訓 – Pronunciation: this index also lists the stroke count and learning level (elementary school year, personal name or extra character)
総画 – Stroke count: this index also lists the radical and learning level (elementary school year, personal name or extra character)
学年別 – School year
コラム – This index shows where you can find highlights about words with the same reading but different kanji
漢字グループ – This index shows where you can find highlights about Kanji groupings (references to other kanji that deal with the same concept)
故事成語 – This index shows where you can find highlights about idioms derived from historical events or classical literature of China
四字熟語 – Four character idioms (Yojijukugo)
句 – Idioms that often appear in junior high school entrance exams and newspapers
Plant names (植物名) and animal names (動物名)
国字 – Native Japanese characters
なりたち – Naritachi: drawings of how the character came to be and explanations of the elements a Kanji consists of that helps you memorize their meaning

For Japanese beginners, the first three indexes are most useful. The others will be interesting when you reach an intermediate level and want to study Kanji in more detail.

At the end of the book, you can find more information about the different elements of a character and how they help you to guess the sound or meaning.

Kanji explanations

Common Kanji are explained in more detail than Kanji that are used less frequently or only appear in a few set expressions. You can see the stroke order with some visual and textual hints for the tricky parts. One or more meanings are given for all Kanji. Look at the examples of compounds in which the Kanji occur to explore the readings and expressions. I can assure you, there is usually more information than you need.

When relevant, more information is highlighted about ambiguity, Kanji groupings, naritachi and the other interesting things listed in the indexes. These highlights are clearly marked with colorful headings and often contain pictures.

You can read more about using this dictionary in the manga book that discusses the indexes and layout (included with the dictionary).

Opinion

Design

The new full color edition looks good and is easy to navigate. I can find the information I am looking for at a glance. The only downside is that the font is rather small, though that goes for most Japanese dictionaries I have seen.

Using the dictionary

This Kanji dictionary has a steep learning curve. If you start using it as early as N4, you will need another dictionary to look up the words in the explanations. Even if you know enough grammar to read the sentences, you won’t be able to make full use of all the features until your vocabulary is at a higher level.

If you are not used to looking up characters, it will take you a while to master the book. Once you get the hang of using the indexes, you will find what you are looking for in no time.

I use this dictionary to look up readings, but also to study a few characters at a time. The Kanji groupings and ordering by radical are especially helpful in this regard, as it helps me tell the characters apart, which can be quite a challenge.

Before I bought this Japanese Kanji dictionary, I also considered another dictionary that orders the Kanji by elementary school year and uses more pictures and color to explain the meanings. It looks nicer but is not as suitable because there is much less information in the book. On the other hand, the ordering by school year is great if you are using the dictionary as a textbook, studying the easier and more commonly used characters first. It is also less overwhelming because it has less text and fewer words you may not know.

Japanese or English Kanji Dictionary?

Why not use an English dictionary? Because you will never get the same in-depth information as you would with native sources. I considered Kanji Dictionary for Foreigners Learning Japanese 2500 N5 to N1, but the sheer amount of information I would not have had if I had bought it… I am very happy with my purchase because I love the challenge. As soon as I have a basic understanding of grammar, I switch to native material. It is so rewarding when you find that you can read your first sentence without looking up words.

Since you are studying the Kanji in Japanese, you also get some reading practice as a bonus. You will see that once you drop the English textbooks in favor of Japanese textbooks, your Japanese will improve much faster. It’s hard at first, but more rewarding in the end. Books for Japanese elementary school children excel at captivating their audiences and – let’s not admit it – foreign adults as well.

Interested?

Get your copy of the New Rainbow Kanji Dictionary (Japanese title: 新レインボー小学漢字辞典　改訂第６版　小型版) from Amazon.co.jp. International shipping costs and import taxes may be high, but for me (shipping to the Netherlands) it was still cheaper than ordering it elsewhere. At Amazon, you can also find more pictures of the content.

A good supplement to your Kanji learning journey is another book by the same publisher about synonyms, antonyms, homonyms and Kanji readings. Check out my review of this Japanese textbook.

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Japanese textbook for synonyms, antonyms, homonyms and kanji readings

Kim — Wed, 12 May 2021 14:00:00 +0000

The Japanese language has many words that have the same pronunciation but different meanings and/or spelling. Use this textbook to study the Kanji and readings.

Are you learning Japanese? Then this book is for you. This dictionary of words that you need to learn to tell apart is great for studying but can also be used as a reference book.

The Japanese title is: 小学生のまんが言葉の使い分け辞典 [同音異義・異字同訓・類義語・反対語].

Let’s break it apart:

小学生のまんが言葉の使い分け辞典: Dictionary (辞典) for the proper use (使い分け) of manga words (まんが言葉) for elementary school students (小学生). While manga is used to explain the different meanings, this book is not aimed at reading manga.
同音異義: homonyms and homophones, meaning words that are pronounced the same but have different meanings and/or spellings
異字同訓: words with different Kanji that have the same Japanese reading and a similar meaning (but different nuance)
類義語: synonyms, meaning words with different pronunciation and spelling that have almost the same meaning
反対語: antonyms, words that are opposite in meaning to each other.

Japanese level

As this book is intended for Japanese elementary school students, it is 100% in Japanese. You can start using it (with a dictionary) if you are studying for the JLPT n4 level. The grammar used is simple, the sentences are short, and the kanji have furigana. When you are at this level (or close to n3), you can use this book to study a few pages at a time to better understand the nuances of the words. After n3, this dictionary can still be very useful as a reference book. The index at the back of the book gives a good overview of homonyms/homophones, useful words with different kanji readings, and the most common synonyms and antonyms.

Content

Let’s take a look inside.

The book is divided into four parts. Every part starts with a short manga story explaining what you will learn from this part. The characters make puns that illustrate why it is important to understand the different meanings and readings of Japanese words.

Part 1: same reading, different kanji

The first part is the biggest and contains 119 pages of words that have the same pronunciation but are written with different kanji. While the meanings are often similar, all words have very specific uses. Every page in this part discusses one pronunciation with two or three readings. The manga next to it illustrates some of the meanings. Both verbs and nouns are discussed.

Example: 開ける, 空ける and 明ける are pronounced as あける.

The first one, 開ける, is commonly used for opening doors, windows, stores, or your mouth. Its antonym is 閉める (to close). And you need to keep an eye on ひらける, which is another reading for 開ける but expresses a different meaning.
空ける can be used when you empty the contents of something (on a plate) or when you make time for something.
明ける can mean that it gets bright outside. Its antonym 暮れる (くれる) means that it gets dark. You can also use 明ける to talk about a new year starting or a period ending.

Part 2: similar words with different nuances

This part discusses words that appear to have the same meaning (and often have the same English translation) but are used in different situations. Each page contains two examples with explanations. 34 pages in total.

Example: 時刻 (じこく) and 時間 (じかん). Both can be translated as time, but the first points at an exact moment in time and the second can be used for a timespan.

Part 3: antonyms

In this part, you will find 44 pages filled with antonyms (two pairs per page). Here you will build on the knowledge gained in the previous chapters, or, if you pick pages at random, you can use the explanations in the other sections to further your understanding. The same information can be absorbed in many different ways. You can search for あつい in part one and find an explanation that focuses on the readings of the kanji, or in part three and read more examples of あつい and its antonyms. In the latter case, you will see:

厚い meaning thick <–> 薄い (うすい) meaning thin (for objects)
暑い meaning hot <–> 寒い (さむい) meaning cold (weather)
熱い meaning hot <–> 冷たい (つめたい) meaning cold (to touch)

Part 4: same kanji, different reading

In the last part of the book, you can find examples of kanji that have different readings depending on the context. This list is not exhaustive (17 pages, three per page), but it will get you started.

Example: 風車 can be read as ふうしゃ meaning windmill or かざぐるま meaning pinwheel (the toy).

Opinion

Useful content

This dictionary is ideal for studying the Japanese language. The sentences in the book are easy enough and a beginner – lower average student of Japanese should be able to understand the grammar. There are enough examples so that you can understand some of the nuances and begin to understand what meaning and word is used in what situation. The chapters provide a high-level overview and are not overwhelming for those who have only recently started learning Japanese. This also means that this book is not a good resource for the advanced learner, as it lacks the details that someone at that level needs. The publisher, Gakken, focuses on the most common words: words that are essential in basic conversations.

Entertainment

Aside from the useful content, this book is also a lot of fun. The puns are funny if you’re in the right mood, and the manga is entertaining to read. However, it is not a manga book: the manga is secondary to explaining the principles. There is no overarching story, only fragments that focus on imparting knowledge.

Reading practice

Because you are studying the concepts in Japanese, you get some reading practice as a bonus. You will see that once you drop the English textbooks in favor of Japanese textbooks, your Japanese improves much faster. It’s hard at first, but more rewarding in the end. Books for Japanese elementary school children excel at captivating their audiences and – let’s never admit it – foreign adults as well.

Interested?

Get your copy from Amazon.co.jp. International shipping costs and import taxes may be high, but for me (shipping to the Netherlands) it was still cheaper than ordering it elsewhere.

In the same order I also bought a Kanji dictionary for elementary school kids, which I will review later, and three parts of しろくまカフェ (Shirokuma Cafe manga). They’re also great for Japanese learners at beginner level or lower intermediate level.

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Buying and drinking tea in Japan: some unique finds

Kim — Wed, 16 Sep 2020 14:00:00 +0000

Learn all about Japanese teas like Matcha, Genmaicha, and Sencha, including tips on where to buy unique and tasteful tea in the southern part of Japan.

Drinking tea is a big part of Japanese culture. The tea ceremony and the quality of the teas used have been refined to a very high level. The most well-known Japanese teas abroad are probably Matcha, Genmaicha, and Sencha, with the first one having the highest status. Matcha is what you get when staying in a Japanese Ryokan, while you will find Genmaicha or green tea powder in your budget hotel room.

Tea types in Japan

There are many different types of tea grown in Japan with a lot of difference in quality between them. For those who don’t speak Japanese, it will often be hard to get an explanation of what sets all these teas with fancy packaging apart. Though the price might be of some help there.

Matcha

Matcha is a high-quality green tea powder known for its health effects. This quality is achieved by shading the tea plants in the last three to four weeks before the harvest and by removing the stems and veins during processing. Matcha tea is prepared with water just under the boiling point. Whisk lightly with a bamboo whisk.

A different grade of Matcha powder is used for cooking and as an ingredient in Matcha Ice Cream and many baked goods.

Genmaicha

Genmaicha is a mixture of green tea and roasted popped brown rice. This tea has a nutty taste because of the rice. The rice was originally added to reduce the price of the tea, but who cares if it tastes great.

Sencha

Sencha is the most popular tea in Japan. Sencha tea stands apart from other teas because of its yellow-green color. You can also recognize it (and many other Japanese teas) by its grassy taste. The flavor of the tea varies depending on the season in which the green tea leaves were produced.

Hojicha

Hojicha is a roasted green tea with a nutty and robust taste. It is low in caffeine and is great for a cold winter day. Probably my favorite Japanese tea… is it cheating if I drink a Hojicha grown in South Korea right now?

Kukicha

Kukicha is a fresh green tea that is made of stems and twigs.

Gyokuro

Gyokuro is the highest quality green tea because it has a very distinct umami taste.

Sobacha

Sobacha is a tea of roasted buckwheat (‘soba’). This tea has a neutral taste (though grainy) and is a good tea for everyday use. One of the best places to buy Soba tea is the UNESCO World Heritage Village Shirakawa-go near Takayama.

Green tea powder

Powdered tea is readily available in every Japanese store. The best thing about green tea powder is that you consume the whole leaf and therefore more of the healthy substances. Plus you can make instant tea with it without brewing time.

Buying tea in Japan: some great finds

It is not always easy to find a tea shop dedicated to tea from loose leaves. When you look for tea in a grocery store or a convenience store, the tea on display is not always of good quality.

While there are tea plantations in Japan, these are often off-route (or not always open to visitors) and you’ll probably find it hard to include them in your itinerary.

That being said, if you visit the islands Kyushu and Yakushima, then I know some great tea shops!

Near Takachiho Gorge: holy basil tea

On your way to Takachiho Gorge, you can stop at the Gokase Tourism Association to visit a local farmer’s market. Not only does this shop sell many local fruits and vegetables, but it also sells many types of tea and other local specialties. The Holy Basil leaf tea I bought here is one of my favorites. It has a very distinct taste, making it unique among my tea collection.

Location: 98-1 Sangasho, 西臼杵郡五ヶ瀬町 Nishiusuki District, Miyazaki 882-1203, Japan

Yakushima: misty island tea

If you’re visiting Yakushima Island, then the teashop (有)屋久島八万寿茶園 is a good place to visit. They sell many types of tea grown on Yakushima Island, ranging from powdered green tea to full leaf green tea and fermented twigs tea. At the shop, you can try some tea before buying.

Location: 532-24 Koseda, Yakushima, Kumage District, Kagoshima 891-4207, Japan

Itoen green tea powder: airport last resort

Itoen instant green tea powder with matcha is very common. You can buy this one in many grocery stores in Japan, but also in malls in Kuala Lumpur, at Japanese airports, and from eBay.

So this is a great option for your leftover money at the airport!

Kagoshima: if the tea plantations are too off-route

At Birouen Tea Store in the Tenmonkan Shopping Center in Kagoshima, you can buy tea grown on tea plantations on Kyushu Island. While not all teas on sale have an English explanation, many do, making it easier to choose (or you can surprise yourself!).

Location: 5-2 Nakamachi, Kagoshima, 892-0827, Japan

Mulberry Green Juice

When visiting Sengan-en, the most famous Japanese garden in Kagoshima, you can end your visit well with a matcha tea at the Japanese tea house. But before you get there, you pass by some shops selling local specialties and handicrafts. At one of these shops, they sell Satsuma Mulberry Green Juice; a drink that is very good for your health as it is rich in minerals, vitamins and amino acids.

Location: 9700-1 Yoshinocho, Kagoshima, 892-0871, Japan

Green tea ice cream and chocolate

Nana’s Green Tea is one of my favorite modern tea cafes in Japan. Their matcha and hojicha flavored chocolates, tea, and ice creams taste wonderful. There are branches all over the country, including Tokyo, Nagasaki, and most big cities in Japan.

Location Tokyo Ueno: 6 Chome−15−1 上野マルイ 1F, Ueno, Taito City, 〒110-8502 Tokyo, Japan

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Highlights of Japan – three weeks Japan itinerary

Kim — Wed, 24 Jun 2020 14:00:00 +0000

Catch the cherry blossom and April festival season with this three weeks itinerary for Japan. You’ll see all the highlights of Japan, including Tokyo, Himeji Castle, and the Hiroshima war memorial.

Japan is a beautiful country with many interesting things to see. There are many reasons for visiting Japan: are you interested in the high tech culture, the samurai history, or the aesthetic parks? Or do you want to combine all of these in the itinerary you’re planning?

If you’re traveling to Japan for the food, then you’re lucky: you can visit any part of Japan and enjoy delicious meals.

This itinerary shows you the highlights of Japan. Basically, the must-see sights every first-time visitor to Japan wants to see, for example, the Hiroshima war memorial and Himeji Castle, but also the beautiful temples in Kyoto and the old trade route in the Nagiso Valley.

If you’ve already seen the Highlights of Japan, then you can check out my other Japan itinerary, focusing on the islands Kyushu and Yakushima in the southern part of Japan.

The right timing

Every season offers its own unique highlights. This itinerary is set up around an April visit, and more specifically: to get to every city just in time to see the festivals and be in the right part of the country to see cherry blossoms bloom. You can’t go too early, because then you’ll miss the festivals and you can’t go too late because you’ll miss the cherry blossoms in this part of Japan.

If you time your itinerary right you can see:

Cherry blossoms for the duration of your journey
Takayama Spring Festival
Alpine route (with the snow wall)
Fuji Shibazakura Flower Festival
The Highlights of Japan in three weeks

For me, 1 April 2015 was the right starting date for this Highlights of Japan itinerary as I was in Takayama for the spring festival, did the alpine route in the first week after it opened, and caught the early stages of the flower festival near Mount Fuji.

When you’re planning your own itinerary, I recommend starting with the date the Alpine route opens for visitors. After that, you check the dates of the festivals in Takayama and near Mount Fuji and plan the days in between. In front of this part of your itinerary, you add fourteen days for the first part of the trip (or less if you want a shorter itinerary).

If you’re traveling to Japan in another season you’re less time-bound and can plan your trip more freely.

Japan itinerary outline

Tokyo: Day 1
Hamamatsu: Day 2
Himeji: Day 3
Fukuoka: Day 4
Aso: Day 5 – 6
Yufuin and Beppu: Day 7 – 8
Hiroshima: Day 9
Osaka and Kyoto: Day 10 – 11
Nakatsugawa: Day 12 – 13
Takayama: Day 14 – 16
Toyama: Day 17
Omachi Onsen: Day 18
Matsumoto: Day 19 – 20
Fujikawaguchiko: Day 21 – 22
Tokyo: Day 23

Practical information including transport info and detailed budget.

To shorten your trip, you can take days off your stay in Fujikawaguchiko, Matsumoto, and Takayama.

Japan itinerary map

You can find all the places mentioned in this itinerary in my Highlights of Japan Google map.

Tokyo

Traveling time: 1 hour 20 minutes by train and subway from the airport to the hotel

Day 1: Shinjuku Gyoen, Shinjuku, Kabukichō

The first day of your trip. After your arrival at Narita or Haneda airport, pick up your Japan Rail Pass at the JR counter. This might take some time (1 – 2 hours waiting time in April 2015). Alternatively, you can pick your pass up the next day at Shinjuku Train Station and pay for a train ticket to Shinjuku separately.

JR Pass and Pasmo/Suica About the J(apan) R(ail) Pass: you need to order one from home before you fly to Japan. They will send you a voucher which you can exchange for a JR Pass at the airport and at some train stations. You can also order a preloaded public transport card (Pasmo or Suica) with the JR Pass, which they will send to your home. You can choose either a Pasmo or Suica pass for this itinerary: they can be used interchangeably in public transport and convenience stores.

Take the train from the airport to Shinjuku train station (about an hour). Shinjuku is one of the busiest train and subway stations in Japan: if you can handle Shinjuku, then the rest of your Japan itinerary will be a blast. And if Shinjuku proves a challenge, don’t worry, you’ll soon get the hang of it. Every other station on this trip will be much easier. On my first roundtrip in Japan, I had trouble navigating Shinjuku (and finding the exit) on the day I arrived in Japan but on my second trip to Kyushu and Yakushima, I navigated the station with ease.

Head to your hotel first to check in and then walk to Shinjuku Gyoen for a relaxing afternoon in the park. If you are visiting in April: Shinjuku Gyoen is one of the prime spots for Sakura (cherry blossom) watching. And a beautiful park at that. Around noon you will see many office workers having a picnic in the park, which ended up being a very iconic sight for every park visit in Japan.

One of my favorite things to do in April in Japan is to watch Japanese people marveling at Cherry Blossom. After returning home, I paid more attention to the cherry blossom trees in my country. I stood under them for a few minutes enjoying their beauty and taking pictures. I was the only one.

When evening falls, head to the big shopping area northeast of Shinjuku station to do some shopping and be impressed by the huge buildings with neon signs on them. This area is brilliant at night: vibrant, colorful, and fun to explore. In Kabukichō you can see the ‘red-light district’. Don’t worry though: it is a very light version, mainly for tourists. Unless you go in, you won’t see anything other than some neon signs and billboards.

Where to eat in Shinjuku

Ainu restaurant Harukoro: a very small restaurant with nice ambience and good food. The food is from the Ainu (indigenous people of Hokkaido) cuisine.

Tonkatsu at Katsukura (Takashimaya 14F): the best tonkatsu I had in my two trips to Japan.

Where to stay in Tokyo

I recommend staying in the Shinjuku neighborhood the first time you visit Tokyo. The location is great for first-time visitors and you will be within walking distance from many interesting sites like Kabukichō and Shinjuku Gyoen. The nearby Shinjuku train and subway station is well connected and will get you to other parts of Tokyo quickly. From here you can also take the train to many other cities nearby.

If you are looking for a budget / mid-range hotel I recommend Hotel Wing International Premium Tokyo Yotsuya, which is only a few minutes’ walk from the park Shinjuku Gyoen. Almost opposite the hotel is the subway exit of Yotsuya-sanchome, one stop away from Shinjuku train station, but you can easily walk from the train station to the hotel. The hotel is clean and the rooms are pretty spacious for a Japanese hotel.

I’d also like to give a non-recommendation here: my second time staying in Shinjuku I rented a room at Royal Hotel Shinokubo. This hotel lies in a great area (a vibrant Korea town), probably the area I enjoyed staying at the most in Tokyo but caused me some inconveniences. For one: there is no elevator taking you from street level to the reception of the hotel. Normally I don’t mind this very much, but at the end of my roundtrip my luggage was really heavy. But more importantly, the hotel room was very stuffy with lots of dust (irritating my airways) and I think there were bugs in the bed that caused itching for weeks.

Other than that, the area around Shin-Okubo subway station is a great place to stay! There are many interesting restaurants and stores selling souvenirs, like the Don-Quijote. The area around Okubo-dori is lots of fun at night.

Tip: Japanese hotel rooms

If this is your first visit to Japan please take note of the following: Western-style rooms in Japanese hotels are tiny. With a king or queen-sized bed, the walls will be almost directly against your bedposts. Any other double bed is only a little bigger than a single bed. It will be hard to store your luggage.

I recommend renting a twin bedroom if you want a Western-style room. This will give you some breathing room. Alternatively, you can rent a Japanese-style room. These will feel much more spacious as there are no beds taking up most of the space in the room. It will also be much easier to store your luggage.

For solo travelers, Japan is a great destination as they offer single-person rooms in many cities for a lower price than double/twin rooms. You can also try their famous capsule hotels that often come with spa access included. But only if you can handle confined spaces…

What to read in Tokyo

Ryu Murakami - In the Miso Soup

 4/5

An American tourist touring Tokyo’s nightlife. If you’re going to Kabuchiko in Tokyo, don’t skip this one.

It is just before New Year’s. Frank, an overweight American tourist, has hired Kenji to take him on a guided tour of Tokyo’s sleazy nightlife on three successive evenings. But Frank’s behavior is so strange that Kenji begins to entertain a horrible suspicion: that his new client is in fact the serial killer currently terrorizing the city. It isn’t until later, however, that Kenji learns exactly how much he has to fear and how irrevocably his encounter with this great white whale of an American will change his life.

Buy from Amazon

Sayaka Murata - Convenience Store Woman

 4/5

A must-read if you also hop in and out of convenience stores when traveling in Japan (and other Asian countries).

Keiko Furukura had always been considered a strange child, and her parents always worried how she would get on in the real world, so when she takes on a job in a convenience store while at university, they are delighted for her. For her part, in the convenience store she finds a predictable world mandated by the store manual, which dictates how the workers should act and what they should say, and she copies her coworkers’ style of dress and speech patterns so she can play the part of a normal person. However, eighteen years later, at age 36, she is still in the same job, has never had a boyfriend, and has only few friends. She feels comfortable in her life but is aware that she is not living up to society’s expectations and causing her family to worry about her. When a similarly alienated but cynical and bitter young man comes to work in the store, he will upset Keiko’s contented stasis—but will it be for the better?

Buy from Amazon

Many other good Japanese books are (partly) set in Tokyo as well.

Hamamatsu

Traveling time: 2 hours 40 minutes by subway and shinkansen to the hotel in Hamamatsu

Day 2: Meiji Jingu Gyoen, Harajuku, Shibuya, Unadon in Hamamatsu

In the morning you will explore the Shibuya and Harajuku neighborhoods of Japan. Leave your luggage at the hotel so you can pick it up when you’re ready to leave Tokyo. The first stop will be the Meiji Jingu park and shrine. You can either walk there in 30 minutes from your hotel and see more of the area or take the subway to Yoyogi Station (change subway line at Yotsuya station) and reach the park in 20 minutes.

After a nice walk in the forest, you reach Meiji Jingu in the middle of the park. Meiji Jingu is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife Empress Shōken. The shrine itself is not big, but the park surrounding it is.

Slowly make your way south and exit the park at the eastern side to visit Takeshita Street in Harajuku, a neighborhood known for its colorful streets and youth fashion. All around you, you will find crêpes and bubble tea shops. Inside the malls, there are some very picture-worthy seating areas where you can enjoy a drink. I feel conflicted about the ‘fashion’: some of it was colorful, but many stores sell brownish tapestry-like dresses.

Walk to the area northwest of Shibuya Station to see the famous Shibuya Crossing and to go shopping in the area. In front of Shibuya Station exit A8, you can find Hachikō Memorial Statue, a statue for the Akita dog that was known for his loyalty for his owner.

When you’re ready to leave Tokyo behind (at least for now), take the subway back to your hotel to pick up your luggage. From there, take the subway (Marunouchi line) to Tokyo Station and get on the Shinkansen to Hamamatsu.

Why Hamamatsu? Because it is known for its Unadon dish: steamed white rice with grilled caramelized eel. Easily one of my favorite Japanese dishes. Plus it is great fun visiting a city other tourists don’t go to. At a 2-3 hour distance from the hotel in Tokyo, it is the perfect distance to cover after spending the morning and part of the afternoon in Tokyo.

As you walk from Hamamatsu train station to your hotel in ten minutes, you will pretty much cover the city center and ‘shopping’ area. When you go out again for dinner, you can explore the rest.

Where to stay in Hamamatsu

Hamamatsu is a backwater city, but perfect for one night and an evening enjoying the local specialty: Unadon.

A good budget-friendly hotel is Kuretake-Inn Central Hamamatsu. Nothing fancy, but it has all you need for one night: clean rooms and a basic Japanese and Western buffet breakfast. At ~35 EUR per room per night that is a bargain.

Himeji

Traveling time: 2 hours 20 minutes by train to Yamazaki Whisky Distillery; 1 hour 30 minutes by train and Shinkansen to the hotel in Himeji

Day 3: Yamazaki Whisky Distillery, Himeji Castle

If you like whisky, then today will be a treat as you will visit Yamazaki Whisky Distillery. For those of you who don’t like whisky: just go to Himeji directly to explore the castle and use the bicycles of the hotel to see more of the area.

The Distillery is at a ten minutes’ walk from Yamazaki Station. You can leave your luggage at the front gate for safekeeping.

A visit to Yamazaki Whisky Distillery is only allowed if you have a reservation. You can book either a free tour or one of the paid tours up to two months in advance. I recommend “The Story of Yamazaki” tour (daily 13:00 – 14:40, not available between January 8 and March 31, 2020) as you will be able to see the production process. The tour is in Japanese, but you can download the Audio Guide App in English, Chinese and French. If you are under the age of 20 or traveling with kids, then you can only visit the museum, shop and tasting counter. That’s what the website says at least, there were young kids going into the distillery on my tour.

You can find more information about the tours and closing days on the Yamazaki Whisky Distillery website.

Behind the tasting counter, you can visit the whisky gallery. This is the best spot for taking pictures.

Yamazaki Whisky Distillery tasting

At the end of the two paid tours, they’ll let you taste some of their younger whiskys (Hakushu and Yamazaki) for free. You can make your way to the tasting counter afterward to try some more (paid). I used this opportunity to try the 25-year-old Hakushu and 25-year-old Yamazaki.

Unexpectedly, they tasted awful! The 18-year-old versions are the best they produce, but something went wrong in the seven years after that. This really surprised me. So if you have never tried the 18-year-old and 25-year-old versions, then I recommend tasting the 18-year-old ones. They also have some grain-based drinks that taste really good. Enjoy!

To Himeji

Pick up your luggage after your visit and take the train and Shinkansen to Himeji Station. Your hotel is only a ten minutes’ walk from the train station and leads you through the main shopping and restaurant area in the center of Himeji.

Himeji castle, the attraction Himeji is best known for, is only a five minutes’ walk from your hotel. This white castle is especially beautiful in the cherry blossom period. When I visited there was some festival going on with music performances, lots of sake and snacks.

Where to stay in Himeji

Hotel Wing International Himeji is a good budget hotel at a prime location close to Himeji Castle and the covered shopping street running from Himeji Station to Himeji Castle.

Fukuoka

Traveling time: 2 hours and 50 minutes by train and subway to Fukuoka.

Day 4: Hakata Ramen, Fukuoka Canal City, Hakata Train Station, Fukuoka Castle Ruins, Nakasu Street Stalls

Take the train to Fukuoka’s Hakata Station and from there the subway to Nakasukawabata Station.

When you get off the subway you’re right in front of Ichiran’s Tenjin branch where you can eat the local specialty after checking into your hotel: Hakata Ramen; the pork noodles soup from the Fukuoka area.

Forwarding luggage

The luggage forwarding service is very popular in Japan. It is cheap, yet costs too much for everyday use (unless you prefer more luxurious travel and allocate a budget for it). The costs depend on the size of your luggage and the forwarding distance. For a 75cm suitcase, forwarding costs about 15 EUR/USD.

As you will visit Mount Aso tomorrow directly from Aso train station, I recommend using the luggage forwarding service today. Your hotel can probably send it for you or direct you to a convenience store nearby. Make sure to fill in the forms and drop off your luggage before 4 PM. Keep an overnight bag / small travel bag with you for tonight and tomorrow.

Exploring Fukuoka

Visit Canal City shopping mall in the morning and continue your shopping spree at Hakata Train Station. If you’re planning to buy some very touristy Japanese souvenirs for your loved ones, then this is one of the best places to do so on this trip. It’s not a good idea to buy the heavy stuff yet but some regional sheet masks, socks, t-shirts, and KitKats shouldn’t weigh you down too much.

Afterward, head over to the nearby castle to explore Fukuoka Castle Ruins and Ohori park.

Slowly make your way to the harbor so you can view the city from high above from the observation deck of Fukuoka Tower. You can buy your ticket in advance so you won’t have to wait in line.

Dinner tonight is at the Nakasu Street Stalls (Yatai). These stalls are located along the canal and attract a lot of people at night. Some of the dishes you can try here are yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), oden (hot pot noodles), a variety of dumplings, and Hakata Ramen. Just take a seat at one of the stalls and strike up a conversation with the people around you.

Also read: How to spend one day in Nagasaki

Where to stay in Fukuoka

My second time in Fukuoka I stayed at Hotel WBF Fukuoka Nakasu near Nakasukawabata subway station in the Tenjin area. This hotel is within walking distance from Ichiran, the food stalls, Canal City, and Hakata train station. I enjoyed my stay at the hotel after an initial discussion about the price; they had to call some people to confirm the amount on my booking reservation over the amount they usually charge.

In the lobby of the hotel, you can choose your shampoo and conditioner for the night, which is a very nice touch and a good opportunity to try Japanese brands. The rooms were clean and because I booked a twin room, big enough for two people and two suitcases.

A slightly cheaper option that I used on my first trip is Hotel MyStays Fukuoka Tenjin. This hotel is in the same neighborhood and offers clean rooms. Nothing special, but a very good option if you’re not planning on spending any time inside.

Aso

Traveling time: 3 hours 20 minutes by subway, Shinkansen, train, and bus to your hotel in Aso.

Because the weather was bad on my first visit to Aso (I couldn’t even visit the crater!), naturally I had to return to Aso. The account in this itinerary is from the second time I visited Aso. On this trip to Kyushu, I used a rental car, but I’ll assume travel by public transport for this itinerary.

Day 5: Mount Aso

Take the Shinkansen from Hakata station to Kumamoto station and switch to the smaller JR train to Aso Train Station. For those of you who love Harry Potter: if the sky is grey and cloudy, this feels like you’re taking the Hogwarts Express.

Take the bus from Aso Train Station to Asosan-nishi station. In about thirty minutes this bus takes you to the crater of Mount Aso. Keep an eye on the time as the bus only goes seven times a day and the last bus leaves the crater at 16:25.

Mount Aso is the largest active volcano in Japan and one of the biggest calderas in the world. One of the peaks, Nakadake, continuously emits smoke and you will need to check the current status to see if you can visit.

There are many walking paths at the top that you can take to see more of the area. I especially liked the view of the mountains from a path of dark sand and rocks with tiny orange bushes.

Back at Aso Train Station, you can catch a bus to your hotel.

Day 6: Takachiho Gorge, Amano Iwato Shrine, Amano Yasukawara

Takachiho Gorge and the shrines are some of the sites you simply can’t miss around Aso. After the 2016 earthquake, it became a bit harder to visit the sites on your own, but you can still join a tour. Unfortunately, you can’t get to the starting point in time by train, so you’ll have to take a cab to Higo-Ozu train station. In the afternoon you can take the train back to Aso.

Alternatively, you can take the bus from Tateno to visit Takachiho Gorge. This will require good timing as there are only two buses a day. Another bus can take you from Takachiho Gorge to the shrines and back again (once every 1-2 hours).

Takachiho Gorge is best known for its very blue water surrounded by high cliffs. You can take a boat and watch the gorge from below or walk along the stream for a different perspective.

Near Takachiho Gorge you can visit Amano Iwato Shrine and Amano Yasukawara. Both shrines are at a beautiful location along a stream, surrounded by trees and make you feel like you’re far away from society.

From Amano Iwato Shrine you follow the path lined with shops (take-out ice cream) and a stream resembling a mini Takachiho Gorge to a remote temple (Amano Yasukawara) built in a cave. In the cave you can see the wooden shrine and many piles of stones, making you feel like a recluse at the perfect photo stop.

Where to stay in Aso

I recommend Tsuruya. A small word of caution ahead: this is not a budget option. This is the luxury stay I always treat myself with once or twice every trip. I rented a Japanese room with a private hot spring bath in the garden and a multi-course breakfast and dinner included.

And it was worth it. A very relaxing stay where everything is taken care of. Lots of space for moving around and a hot spring resort experience (that is not a thousand euros per night) at a traditional Japanese house.

On another trip to Japan, I stayed at a hotel across the street. Both hotels provide a similar experience. So, see if you can book one nice hotel in the Aso area to treat yourself for a trip going well.

Yufuin

Traveling time: 2 and a half hours by bus

Alternatively, you can stay in Beppu and visit Yufuin as a day trip.

Day 7: Tadewara wetlands, Yufuin

At Aso train station, you can take the bus to Yufuin. This bus takes you on a sightseeing tour over the mountain pass through the Kuju Mountains. Halfway you can get off at Chojabaru Visitor Center for a short walk through the Tadewara wetlands. From the wooden boardwalk, you have a good view of the mountain range and you can try to spot some birds in the reeds. Or you can go for a longer hike, it’s all up to you!

You have to reserve your seat on the bus in advance (two reservations if you want to get off the bus to visit Tadewara wetlands).

Explore Yufuin’s Yunotsubo Street in the afternoon. Yufuin basically has one shopping street with stores selling handicrafts and food. At the end of this street, you will find Kinrin Lake in front of Mount Yufu marking the end of the town. Yufuin has a very artistic feel to it and there are many museums to visit.

The town is best known for its hot springs. So make sure to book the right hotel to make optimal use of the healthy natural springs in Yufuin!

Day 8: Day trip to Beppu

Take the same bus line as yesterday to the Kannawa Onsen bus stop in Beppu.

Kannawa Onsen is the starting point for a visit to most of the Beppu hells. You can buy a passe-partout for all hells at any of the Hells for 2100 Yen.

In no particular order you will visit:

White Lake Hell (Shiraike Jigoku): a milky white pond with a small garden surrounding it.
Mountain Monster Hell (Onimaya Jigoku): a small pool with crocodiles in tiny cages. Skippable!
Cooking Pot Hell (Kamado Jigoku): small green pond where you can enjoy a food bath and eat steamed egg and tofu.
Mountain Hell (Yama Jigoku): small pool with animals in small cages. Not worth a visit in my opinion.
Ocean Hell (Umi Jigoku): a beautiful pond with tropical blue color.
Monk Hell (Oniishibozu Jigoku): mud pools with bubbles. A very interesting Hell to visit.

After visiting these five hells of Beppu, you can take the bus or walk in thirty minutes to the location of the remaining two hells. I recommend walking, as the path will lead you through a quiet Japanese neighborhood with many things to see.

The remaining two hells:

Blood Pond Hell (Chinike Jikogu): a hot, red pool with beautiful plants at the edge. This one is great for taking pictures.
Geyser Hell (Tatsumaki Jigoku): a boiling hot geyser that sprouts twice per hour.

All Beppu Hells have good souvenir shops, but the best are at these last two hells. This is where I bought my very own red demon amulet that decorates my Christmas tree in December.

You can buy a ticket for all Beppu Hells for 2100 Yen or pay 550 Yen entrance fee per hell. I think most of the hells are worth visiting, so buying a combined ticket is cheaper in the end.

After visiting the Beppu Hells you can catch the bus back to Yufuin from Kannawa Onsen bus station (make sure to reserve your seat).

Also read: Kyushu and Yakushima itinerary

Where to stay in Yufuin

Hasuwa Inn is situated 50 meters from the Oita river at a 10 minutes’ walk from Yufuin Station. This ryokan offers modest Japanese rooms and basic Japanese breakfast at a good price. Why should you absolutely stay at Hasuwa Ryokan? Because of its beautiful outdoor hot spring baths. You can go to one of the two baths and lock the door for privacy. Now you (and your party) can enjoy the small bath in the open air.

Where to stay in Beppu

I stayed in a Japanese room at Umikaoru Yado Hotel New Matsumi. The Japanese room is very big: you get two rooms basically. The hotel has public hot spring baths and free breakfast is included.

The hotel is at a very good location near Beppu train station and bus lines to Kannawa Onsen. You will find yourself surrounded by awesome small bars and pubs for dinner. Another thing worth mentioning: one of the staff members spoke very good English. I was really impressed. I don’t know if she will be there during your visit but for us, it meant a very smooth check-in experience.

Hiroshima

Traveling time: 3 and a half hours by train, Shinkansen, and tram or bus.

Day 9: Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park, Hondori Shopping District

Take the train from Yufuin station to Kurume Station and from there the Shinkansen to Hiroshima Station. Alternatively, you can take a longer route (+30 min) and switch trains at Oita Station and Kokura Station so you can see what the northern coastline of Kyushu Island looks like.

From Hiroshima station, you can catch the bus or tram to your hotel. My Pasmo/Suica card didn’t work on this bus, so keep some change on you as a precaution.

Hiroshima is probably best known for being hit by an atomic bomb during the Second World War. But Hiroshima is more than just a target of a past war. It is a modern city with a vibrant shopping area.

Still, you probably won’t be visiting Hiroshima if you’re not interested in seeing the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park. You will see thousands of folded cranes and read about personal experiences. The most iconic building is the ruin of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall also known as the Peace Memorial. This building was the only structure left standing near the bomb’s hypocenter.

Hiroshima is also a good city for shopping. What surprised me the most about this city were the outfits of the people: they were more colorful than the grey/black suit ocean you see in other Japanese cities. Enjoy your evening at Hondori Shopping District.

Where to stay in Hiroshima

I stayed at Hotel Sunroute Hiroshima (now called Sotetsu Grand Fresa Hiroshima) across the bridge from Hiroshima’s Memorial Peace Park at what I believe to be the best location to stay in Hiroshima. From here everything is within walking distance. The rooms were comfortable and the breakfast buffet at this hotel was very good.

Osaka

Traveling time: 45 minutes by bus, train, and ferry to Miyajima and two hours by train to Osaka.

Day 10: Miyajima, Osaka Dotonburi

With a thirty minutes’ train ride from Hiroshima Station, you can reach Miyajimaguchi Station. See if you can leave your luggage at Hiroshima Station to pick up after you return from Miyajima.

Miyajima is a small island (also called Itsukushima) known for its forests and shrines. The most famous site is probably the great Torii Gate just offshore. With high tide, this shrine is partly submerged.

On the island, you can take one of the many hiking trails that will show you the most beautiful sites. With a two hour walk, you can hike to Mount Misen for a nice view. If you feel less active it is also possible to take the Miyajima Ropeway that will take you very close to the summit.

Head back to the mainland and make your way to Shin-Osaka Station after picking up your luggage at Hiroshima Station.

The evening is for exploring the Dotonburi area near Nambo subway station. This is where the neon billboards are that you see on nearly every photo of Osaka. It is a very touristy place and the prices of meals at the restaurants are higher than in other areas in Osaka but it is still fun to visit.

Day 11: Daytrip Kyoto, Fushimi Inari, Golden Pavilion, Geisha district

Tip: send your luggage to the hotel in Nakatsugawa so you won’t have to bring it with you on day 12.

Today you will go on a cultural day trip to Kyoto. This city has great historical value. Not only because of the many temples, shrines and historical places but also because it is the former capital of Japan.

Kyoto is a very popular tourist destination. After exploring Kyushu for a week you will notice the difference as all the must-see sites in Kyoto are very crowded. Catch an early train from Osaka and decide which tourist site is most important to you so you can go there first thing in the morning to beat the crowd. I chose Fushimi Inari.

After arriving at Kyoto Station, switch to the train to Nara for two stops and get off at Inari Station. This station is right in front of the path to Fushimi Inari, an important Shinto Shrine with thousands of vermilion Torii Gates. Walk under the gates until you find a quiet spot without people to take beautiful pictures or go all the way up the mountain for a view of the city from above.

From Fushimi Inari you can take the train back to Kyoto Station and hop on the bus that takes you to Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) in the northern part of Kyoto. The beautiful pictures tourists bring back from this place never show the huge crowd trudging along the path set out for them. But as with Fushimi Inari, the view of the golden pavilion is worth it.

Hop on the bus again to visit the Kyoto Imperial Palace where the emperor resided between 794 and 1868. This palace and garden still show the serenity that the modern part of Kyoto lost.

From the imperial palace, you can walk south (or take to bus again) until Hanamikoji Street to visit the renowned Geisha district of Kyoto. It will be easy to spot Geisha’s here (at least in 2015 it was). Please don’t intrude on their personal space and be respectful when you take pictures.

Where to stay in Osaka

Shin-Osaka Sunny Stone Hotel is located near Shin-Osaka Station from which you have easy access to Osaka’s subway network and trains to other cities. It is the ideal base for exploring Osaka and Kyoto, as Kyoto is only a 15 minutes’ Shinkansen ride away. From the hotel, you can walk in 17 minutes to Shin-Osaka Station or take the subway for one stop to get there quicker. The hotel itself is inexpensive and has everything you need for two nights.

Alternatively, you can stay in Kyoto and go on a day trip to Osaka. I chose Osaka because the hotels were more affordable.

Nakatsugawa

Traveling time: one hour by train to Nara and two and a half hours by Shinkansen, train, and bus to Nakatsugawa.

Day 12: Nara

After a short train ride you reach Nara, a city packed with temples, beautiful gardens, and historical sites. Nara, formerly called Heijo, was the first permanent capital of Japan and that is also the reason you can find so many historical treasures in the area.

First head to the Todaiji Temple at the northern side of Nara-koen park. Here you can see the Big Buddha Hall and explore the temple grounds. You’ll also encounter the wild deer roaming the Nara-koen park.

Nearby you can visit Isuien Garden, which integrated Todaiji’s Nandaimon Gate into its beautiful scenery.

If you feel active you can hike up Mount Wakakusa. In fifteen minutes you can reach the plateau and from there it is only half an hour to the top of the mountain. This hike is especially beautiful in April when you can watch cherry blossoms while walking up the grassy slope.

After exploring the southern side of Nara-koen, head back in the direction of the train station for a visit to Kofukuji Temple, the ancient family temple of the Fujiwara clan, built in the 700s.

It’s time to catch the train to Nakatsugawa.

Day 13: Magome - Tsumago Hiking Trail

Tsumago and Magome are two of the best-preserved post towns in Japan. When you follow the Magome – Tsumago Hiking Trail, you are following the footsteps of the trader’s of old. Both towns are on the Nakasendo trade route that connected Tokyo to Kyoto in the Edo period.

Take the local train from Nakatsugawa station to Tsumago. Here you walk up the path through the village, giving you the feeling you’ve stepped back in time. At the end of the village, you can start your hike to Magome town or alternatively wait on the road near the bus stop for the bus that will take you there. The buses are infrequent, but I easily saw two in 20-30 minutes. Another possibility is to walk part of the trail and catch the bus at another bus stop (basically whenever the path intersects with the main road).

Magome is much quieter than Tsumago. Whereas Tsumago makes you feel you’re in the middle of a bustling trading town, Magome gives off this remote small-town feeling. That’s what makes it so interesting to visit both.

After exploring Magome you can either hike back to Tsumago or take the bus (the last bus leaves pretty early!). Another tip: if you’re heading back to Nakatsugawa, take a taxi for a scenic route.

Also read: Best Japanese books with English translation

Where to stay in Nakatsugawa

While it might be more interesting to stay in Tsumago, Nakatsugawa is easily the cheaper option. I thought it would be cool to stay in a city where no one ever stays. And it was really funny as I could not find anything to do there at all except for a walk through the neighborhood to explore a city that doesn’t get many tourists (on a rainy day!).

Nakatsugawa is at a very practical location, but it doesn’t make for an interesting stop.

I stayed at Hotel Route Inn Nakatsugawa Inter which was perfectly nondescript and yet a very convenient place to stay at.

Takayama

Traveling time: three hours and fifteen minutes using three trains.

Day 14: Takayama Old Town

Time to head to Takayama! The train ride to Takayama was easily one of the more interesting ones of my trip. You have to switch trains twice at Tajimi and Minoota, two train stations that are literally in the middle of ‘where am I’ and ‘if I miss the train will I ever get out of here’. But then you get on the third train and the scenery takes your breath away. The train treats you to a sightseeing tour through valleys, along rivers and mountains.

And at the end lies Takayama, a town with beautiful historical buildings, sake and miso shops and most importantly: the Takayama Festival you’ll visit tomorrow.

But for tonight: explore the town and enjoy the many interesting souvenir shops. Further away from the train station you will find the beautifully preserved Old Town, an area with preserved Edo-period houses and the historical quarter for shopping and dining. Here you can visit sake distilleries and shops specialized in miso. Alternatively, there are also some good tea houses if you’re craving something less alcoholic.

Day 15: Takayama Festival and Castle Ruins

Takayama is a beautiful mountain village in the Japanese Alps. The historical houses alone make it worth a visit, but if you time it right you can also enjoy Takayama’s famous festival (in spring and autumn)

At the festival, you can see the festival floats that tour the streets of the Old Town. There are also many performances: plays, music, and dances. Some of them are even performed on top of the festival floats. At the shops along the road, you can buy snacks and drinks.

During my visit, the festivities almost got canceled because of the bad weather. But fortunately, it stopped raining in the afternoon and they could take the festival floats out on the streets.

In the afternoon you can explore Takayama Castle Ruins.

Day 16: Shirakawa-go and Ainokura day trip

Today you will visit the traditional villages of Ainokura (in Gokayama) and Shirakawa-go, two UNESCO world heritage sites. You can use regular buses to get from Takayama to these villages or join a tour that will help you combine the two world heritage sites.

On the tour, the bus will first take you to Ainokura village. You can take a walk in the village to see the traditional houses (it was 20 degrees Celsius even though you see snow on the pictures) and follow the road to the viewing point to look at the village from above. Compared to Shirakawa-go, this village is very small, but that just makes it very quiet and peaceful.

From there the bus will take you to Shirakawa-go Observatory for a delicious Japanese lunch. At the observatory, you have a good view of the whole village and the rice fields surrounding them.

After lunch, you’ll get some free time in the village. This is the perfect opportunity to buy some souvenirs (like my favorite soba tea) and admire the architecture of the houses. Even though this village attracts many tourists each day, at the outskirts of the village you can still get that small-town feeling.

Near the bus parking lot, you can also visit Gassho Zukuri Folklore Park and observe the traditional houses from within.

Where to stay in Takayama

The ideal place to stay is between the train station and Takayama Old Town: you’ll be right in the middle of all the shops and everything is within walking distance. I stayed at the budget hotel: Super Hotel Hida Takayama. Make sure to book your hotel in time if you’re planning your visit around the Takayama Festival.

Toyama

Traveling time: an hour and a half by train.

Day 17: Toyama Castle and Iwasekoshi beach or a day trip to Kanazawa

After arriving in Toyama, check-in at your hotel and drop off your luggage at the desk to have it forwarded to your next hotel in the Omachi Onsen area. On day 18, your luggage will follow the same Alpine Route as you, albeit separately so that you can travel lightly and enjoy the trip.

If you want to take a short break from trains and travel, you can spend the rest of this day in Toyama. First head to Toyama Castle in the middle of the city. At the site, there is this lovely area where you can sit down to read a book while sneaking a peek at the castle every now and then.

You can also take the tram to the Iwasekoshi beach north of Toyama. It’s a great place for a quiet and relaxing stroll.

Alternatively, you can take the train to Kanazawa to visit Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan’s three most beautiful landscape gardens. This is also a very good spot for watching cherry trees.

Where to stay in Toyama

Because you need to leave early in the morning on day 18 to make it to Tateyama Station (where you start the Alpine Route) in time, the best place to stay is within a fifteen minutes’ walking distance from Dentetsutoyama Station. I stayed at Toyama Manten Hotel which is only an eleven minutes’ walk from the train station and also near Toyama Castle.

Omachi Onsen

Traveling time: an hour by train to Tateyama Station, six hours on the Alpine Route, and half an hour by bus to your hotel.

Day 18: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route

This route is only possible between the second half of April and the end of November each year. Make sure to reserve your tickets in advance, because they only allow a certain amount of people to start the route each hour.

Before the day is over you will have traveled by cable car, bus, tunnel trolley bus, ropeway, cable car, and another tunnel bus. If you do this trip in April, you’ll be able to see the famous snow corridor. It is very impressive to walk in between this 20 meters tall snow corridor.

The first bus takes you to the Midagahara and Murodo viewpoint. During this ride, your bus first towers above the heaps of snow at the side of the road, but slowly the snow corridor will grow taller and taller and tower above the bus. At the viewpoint, it can be below 0 degrees Celsius (-9 on my visit), which can be quite a difference with the 20 degrees in Toyama. Because the temperature will soon rise again after you leave the viewpoint it is fine to go up with many ‘summer’ layers (like a fleece sweater, summer coat, and hat) instead of going full winter gear which you’d have to carry around for many days.

From the ropeway, you have a good view of the mountains and valley. I think this part will be most gorgeous in summer and autumn when the trees have leaves in various colors.

In the end, you get to walk on the Kurobe Dam before you reach the last tunnel bus. The whole route takes about six hours to complete.

Along the route, you can take some time to enjoy the snow or go hiking (again, probably more fun in summer).

At Ogizawa you can catch a bus to the Omachi Onsen area where you can relax in the outdoor hot spring at your hotel.

Where to stay in Omachi Onsen

Finally, another onsen area! See if you can book a hotel in the Omachi Onsen area. This area is easily reached by bus from the end of the Alpine Route. There are many hotels in this area. I stayed at Hotel Karamatsuso: not too expensive, but with a very good dinner and breakfast and two lovely outdoor pools (one for men, one for women).

Matsumoto

Traveling time: fifteen minutes by bus to the train station and an hour by train from Shinano-Omachi station.

Day 19: Matsumoto Castle and town

After a day of traveling it is always good to compensate with shorter travel time. Relax in your hot spring hotel until it is time to check out and then catch the bus to nearby Shinano-Omachi Station. From here you can catch the train to Matsumoto.

The highlight of Matsumoto is Matsumoto Castle, my favorite castle in Japan! A beautiful black (crow) castle with a red bridge. Explore all the floors in the castle and take a walk on the castle grounds. As this castle attracts fewer visitors than for example Himeji Castle, it is quite easy to take good pictures without other people obscuring the view.

Nearby you can visit the former Kaichi School, one of the first schools of its kind in Japan housed in an interesting building that now functions as a museum.

You end your day with a soba noodle dish with fresh wasabi that you have to grate yourself. If you order hot sake with your dish, you might end up with fish in your drink. Eventually, the fish will taste of sake and the sake will taste like drunken fish!

Also read: 10 situations to experience in Japan

Day 20: Wasabi farm, Nawate-dori and Timepiece museum

North of Matsumoto you can visit a Wasabi farm. A very unique place to visit, as wasabi is a hard plant to grow. When you order sushi at home, the wasabi you get will most likely be horseradish instead of the real thing. So see if you can get some fresh wasabi with your meal when eating out in Matsumoto.

Take the train to Hotaka Station or Akashina Station and then the bus (or walk) to Daio Wasabi Farm. At the farm, you can see how wasabi is grown and taste a variety of products and meals containing wasabi. Walking trails lead you from field to field along the river stream with water wheels and to the Daio Shrine.

In the late afternoon, you can explore Matsumoto city, go shopping in the traditional shopping street Nawate-dori and visit the Timepiece Museum which houses the largest pendulum clock in Japan.

Where to stay in Matsumoto

Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu is a hotel very close to Matsumoto Castle and Nawate-dori. There’s also a great soba noodle restaurant around the corner. The train station is only a ten to fifteen minutes walk away. All in all, the perfect location for exploring Matsumoto.

Fujikawaguchiko

Traveling time: three hours and fifteen minutes by train. The hotel can pick you up at the train station or you can walk to your hotel in thirty minutes.

Day 21: Fujikawaguchiko lake and Mount Fuji

Today you’ll spend some hours on multiple trains, gazing at the beautiful landscape outside. When you arrive at Fujikawaguchiko train station, you can either walk to your hotel or arrange a pick-up. The road along the shore of the lake is lined with many small stores selling fun things and delicacies.

In the afternoon you can take the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway to the observatory for a great view and some lovely pictures with, for example, Tenjo Bell.

Day 22: Fuji Shibazakura Festival

The Fuji Shibazakura Flower Festival is held every year in spring, from mid-April to early June. Near Lake Motosuko, at the foot of Mount Fuji, you can see hundreds of thousands of pink flowers (moss phlox) covering the ground, creating a beautiful pink flower field.

When you go early in the season (I went in the first week) not many flowers will be blooming yet and the field won’t be as pink as weeks later, but the festival is still worth a visit because it just feels good to walk in between flower fields.

At the festival, you can try many flower-themed snacks like ice creams, cakes, and drinks.

To get there you can take one of the many daily buses from Fujikawaguchiko train station.

As this is the last day before returning to the bustling metropole Tokyo, enjoy the peace and quiet of Fujikawaguchiko. Take a stroll along the lake, watch the cherry blossoms, and buy lots of trinkets at the stores that you don’t actually need. When evening falls, head back to your hotel and relax in the hot spring of your hotel before treating yourself to a very good multiple course meal.

Where to stay in Fujikawaguchiko

I recommend staying at the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchiko because you can view both the lake and Mount Fuji from your hotel window or balcony. I stayed at Mizno Hotel, a hotel with a beautiful location on the northern shore. From both my balcony and hot spring bath on the upper floors of the hotel, I had a great view of Mount Fuji. This also resulted in me gazing at the mountain at 4 AM, because that happened to be the hour the sky suddenly cleared and the mountain became visible (during the day there were too many clouds). And I wasn’t the only one! Apparently, other guests were keeping an eye out for the most beautiful view of the lake and mountain.

Mizno hotel is not a budget hotel, but my stay here was one of my favorites of the trip because of the view, the balcony, and the great food they served. Sometimes you should just treat yourself, right?

Tokyo

Traveling time: less than two hours by bus. Alternatively, you can go by train, which takes three hours and fifteen minutes.

Day 23: Shops Tokyo Station, Imperial Palace East Gardens, Ueno Park, Akihabara

The last day of your trip. There is a direct bus that takes you from Fujikawaguchiko Station to Tokyo Station. Make sure to reserve a seat in advance and enjoy the relaxing ride. This time you will explore the eastern part of Tokyo. You will stay near Tokyo or Ueno train station, so you can easily reach the airport when you leave the next day.

A tip: if you leave Japan the next day, you could consider leaving your luggage in a locker at the train station, so you can immediately explore Tokyo upon arrival without going to your hotel first.

The first highlight to visit is the shopping mall below Tokyo Station: there is this great area with shops selling cute souvenirs from tv shows and anime.

Head west from Tokyo Station to visit The East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. Here you can see beautiful gardens, like Ninomaru Garden, and the foundation of Edo Castle. There are guided tours to the Imperial Palace, but you probably won’t be in Tokyo early enough to use them.

If you have some time left after this, head north to Ueno Station to visit Ueno Park and the shopping area east of Ueno Station. It’s a vibrant shopping area that is neither too modern, nor too oldfashioned but rather just right.

When it gets dark it is time to head to Akihabara; the tech neighborhood of Tokyo. You’re not going here to shop (it’s probably cheaper at home) but to see the huge and colorful neon boards that decorate the streets. You can buy figurines of your favorite animes or try your hand at claw machines. Girls dressed as maids will invite you to visit their maid themed cafes.

This marks the end of your Highlights of Japan itinerary. The Narita Express train can take you from Tokyo Station to Narita International Airport in an hour.

Can’t get enough of Japan? Consider touring Kyushu and Yakushima Island on your next trip to Japan.

Where to stay in Tokyo

Sosetsu Fresa Inn Nihombashi Kayabacho is only one subway ride or a ten minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station; the ideal place to stay when you’re leaving for the airport soon. It’s situated in an office area, so the neighborhood is not very exciting. But it is cheap…

Practical information

Transport

In this itinerary, you will use public transport.

Budget

This budget is based on a three-person party. It will be more expensive if you travel solo and have to pay for your accommodation alone.

Transport

Japan Rail Pass 21 days: 490 EUR (557 USD) per person. This is assuming you take the bus to Tokyo on day 22 and buy a separate ticket for the Narita Express to the airport on day 23 or 24.
Bus Fujikawaguchiko to Tokyo: 16 EUR (18 USD) per person
Shirakawa-go and Ainokura tour: 56 EUR (63 USD) per person
Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route: 129 EUR (146 USD) per person
Also budget 25 EUR (28 USD) for the shorter bus, tram, and subway rides.
Luggage forwarding service: 30 EUR (34 USD) per person if you use it twice. You can of course use it more often for a more relaxing trip.

Food

Around 30 EUR daily per person for 23 days: 690 EUR (785 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 EUR daily per person for 23 days based on low to mid-range hotels: 920 EUR (1046 USD) per person. If you choose cheaper hotels and skip my more luxury choices in Aso and Fujikawaguchiko, you can easily lower this by 100-200 EUR.

Wifi

66 EUR (75 USD) in total for 23 days; 22 EUR per person if you’re traveling with two other people. I always order Pocket Wifi via Klook.com as they offer the cheapest Pocket Wifi I can find for many Asian countries.

Entrance fees

Less than 50 EUR (56 USD) per person

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in April 2015. It cost me around 2428 EUR (2762 USD) per person for a party of three, including all the above, but excluding intercontinental flights and souvenirs. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels and food) the total cost will be much lower.

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How to spend one day in Nagasaki

Kim — Mon, 24 Feb 2020 15:00:00 +0000

Nagasaki is a modern city in Japan with a rich history that goes beyond its significance for WWII. Find out more about the best things to do if you have one day in Nagasaki.

History of Nagasaki

Nagasaki is probably best-known worldwide for getting hit by an atomic bomb during World War II. When the bomb dropped, it killed tens of thousands of people and destroyed the city around the hypocenter of the bomb. Those that survived suffered from the radiation in the area. And worst of all: the bomb wasn’t even supposed to be dropped on Nagasaki in the first place.

What both Nagasaki and Hiroshima have in common is that the people living there went through hardship but managed to rebuild well. The memory is still there, both in the heads of the locals and in ours, but life continues. The memorial parks and museums in both cities are must-see sites that make you commemorate the past but also admire human strength and versatility.

Nagasaki is much more than just the target of a bomb. In the 17th century, Nagasaki was the only place in Japan where foreign trade happened. The foreign traders had to stay on Dejima island. Centuries passed before foreigners were allowed to take up residence in other parts of town (like the Dutch Slope).

Nowadays Nagasaki is a modern city with a relaxed atmosphere. You can visit historical sites and memorials, but also modern shopping malls. From Nagasaki, you can do several day trips to see more of the area.

Things to see in Nagasaki

You can easily spend several days in Nagasaki, but even if you don’t have that luxury you can still see the most interesting sites in one day. Read on for the most interesting things to do on that one day in Nagasaki.

Dejima (出島)

Start your day at Dejima, a former Dutch Trading Post in the middle of Nagasaki. This trading post housed Portuguese traders and later also Dutch traders from 1641 onwards to separate them from the rest of society. For some time Dejima Island was the only place of direct trade between Japan and the rest of the world.

Location: 6-1 Dejimamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0862, Japan

Opening hours: 8:00 – 21:00. Tickets are 520 yen.

Chinatown (長崎新地中華街)

Head to Nagasaki’s Chinatown for brunch or lunch. Try Champon (noodles, seafood, pork, and vegetables in white bouillon) and Sara Udon (fried champon).

Location: 10-13 Shinchimachi, Nagasaki, 850-0842, Japan

Dutch Slope (オランダ坂)

Next up is the Dutch Slope. Follow the street up the hill to view the former residences of traders who moved there after Nagasaki opened its port for foreign trade in 1859. For a long time the Dutch were the only Westerners allowed in the country, hence the name Dutch Slope.

Location: 2 Higashiyamatemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0911, Japan

The slope is accessible all day, but if you want to visit the residences then you’ll have to visit between 10:00 and 17:00.

Glover Garden (グラバー園)

From the Dutch Slope, it is only a few minutes’ walk to the ‘elevator’ to Glover Garden. The house within the garden (Glover House, after Thomas Glover, a Scottish merchant who moved to Nagasaki after the port opened) is the oldest Western-style wooden building in Japan.

Location: ８-1 Minamiyamatemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0931, Japan

Opening hours: 8:00 – 18:00 (21:30 in summer and peak season). Tickets are 620 yen.

Oura Catholic Church (大浦天主堂)

Take a stroll through the garden and enjoy the view of Nagasaki harbor from above. After leaving the garden at the bottom you pass by Oura Catholic Church. A church built for the foreign traders around 1864 and one of the oldest surviving Christian churches in Japan.

Location: 5-3 Minamiyamatemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0931, Japan

Opening hours: 8:00 – 18:00. Tickets are 1000 yen.

Atomic Bomb Museum and National Memorial (長崎原爆資料館)

After exploring sites from the 1600s until the 1800s, it is now time to focus on more recent history: the atomic bomb that was dropped on Nagasaki in 1945. In the afternoon you will visit the Atomic Bomb Museum and National Memorial to the victims. The museum is quite impressive and especially the objects that were scavenged from the ruins and the pictures and testimonials of people that survived the bombing make an impact.

Location: 7-8 Hiranomachi, Nagasaki, 852-8117, Japan

Opening hours: 8:30 – 18:30. Tickets are 200 yen.

You can get to the Museum and Memorial by tram.

Urakami Cathedral (浦上天主堂)

On your way from the Atomic Bomb Museum to the Peace Park, you pass the Hypocenter Park with the black column marking the hypocenter of the explosion and the single remaining pillar of the old Urakami Cathedral. You can also visit the new Urakami Cathedral at a ten minutes’ walk from the Peace Park.

Location Hypocenter: 5 Matsuyamamachi, Nagasaki, 852-8118, Japan

Location Urakami Cathedral: 1-79 Motoomachi, Nagasaki, 852-8112, Japan

Opening hours for the cathedral: 9:00 – 17:00. Free admission.

Peace Park (平和公園)

The Peace Park on top of the hill is filled with sculptures commemorating the atomic bombing of Nagasaki. The visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum and Memorials leave you with both peaceful and heavy feelings.

Location: 9 Matsuyamamachi, Nagasaki, 852-8118, Japan

On my way back from the peace park to the tram station, I ate at this brilliant little pub called なんばしよっと hidden behind a door that suggests it is a toilet. Be brave and go in for a very good meal with lovely hosts at a low price. This is what they mean by unique and authentic places (though probably more interesting for lunch than for dinner).

Mount Inasa viewpoint (稲佐山)

When evening falls, head to the Fuchi Shrine Ropeway Station to take the cable car to the Mount Inasa viewpoint. From the viewpoint, you have a very good view of the illuminated city of Nagasaki.

Location: 364 Inasamachi, Nagasaki, 852-8011, Japan

The ropeway starts near the Fuchi Shrine. If you get off the tram at the Takaramachi stop, you can walk from there. After your visit to the viewing point, you can walk back to your hotel (or take the tram for a few stops).

Ropeway operating hours: 9:00 – 22:00. Tickets are 1250 yen for a roundtrip.

Other things to do in or near Nagasaki

Shopping at Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Mall (みらい長崎ココウォーク )

Take the tram to Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Mall for some shopping. I recommend a visit to the bookstore and Nana’s Green Tea cafe in the middle of the bookstore. I visited other branches of this cafe in Miyazaki and Tokyo; their matcha and hojicha flavored chocolates, tea and ice creams taste wonderful.

Location: 1-55 Morimachi, Nagasaki, 852-8104, Japan

Huis ten Bosch (ハウステンボス)

As a Dutch person, I felt very much at home in Nagasaki but going to Huis ten Bosch to see tulips and mills and Dutch houses was a bit too much for me after the Dutch Slope and Dutch Trading Post. Otherwise, Huis ten Bosch (Little Holland) can be a good day trip from Nagasaki. If you want to see the tulips, the mills and the buildings along the canal, then the train can get you there in an hour and a half. Looking at the pictures I’m really impressed by how realistic it looks. You can buy your ticket in advance via Klook!

Location: 1-1 Huis Ten Bosch Machi, Sasebo, Nagasaki 859-3292, Japan

Tickets are 7000 yen for one day. The park is open from 9:00 or 10:00 until 21:00 or 22:00 depending on the season.

Battleship Island (軍艦島)

Battleship Island is an abandoned offshore mining facility about 15 kilometers from Nagasaki that you can visit by joining a tour. On the island, which is also called Hashima Island or Gunkanjima, you can see its abandoned concrete buildings and sea wall. To protect the industrial heritage, this site was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you’ve seen the James Bond film Skyfall, then the island might look familiar to you.

Kujukushima islands (九十九島 )

Go on a sightseeing cruise (in a very nice looking boat) to see the many small islands in the area. If you book the tour in the afternoon, then you can see the beautiful Nagasaki sunset.

Guided city tour

Eating braised pork belly (豚の角煮)

Braised pork belly (Buta kaku ni) is very popular in the Nagasaki area. The pork belly is simmered in a broth of dashi, soy sauce, mirin and other ingredients to get its delicious taste. You can try it at many restaurants in the area, for example at Shippoku Hamakatsu. Try their multi-course dinner with braised pork; it is not a budget meal, though still cheaper than a regular restaurant meal in my country.

Where to stay in Nagasaki

I stayed at S Peria Hotel Nagasaki, which is a budget hotel within walking distance of the train station, Dejima and many other sights in the area. The hotel personnel was friendly and the hotel was exactly as I expected for the price I paid: not too fancy, but comfortable, and at a very practical location. If you’re looking for a budget hotel, I can recommend this one.

If you are looking for more luxury (and Japan’s famous hot spring baths), Hotel Marine World and Nagasaki Nisshokan Hotel are good options.

How to get to Nagasaki

Nagasaki is situated on Kyushu Island in the southern part of Japan. The most interesting part about visiting this part of Japan is the laid-back character of the area. If the weather is nice you can easily mistake parts of Kyushu for a tropical vacation: the vegetation is different from mid and north Japan, fruit is affordable and the must-see places are in the rural areas.

The most common way to get to Nagasaki is probably by train via Fukuoka. This journey takes about two hours and twenty minutes and is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. The train ride from Kagoshima takes about four and a half hours.

Nagasaki also has an airport, so you can fly in from other cities in Japan and some airports in countries nearby.

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10 Situations to Experience in Japan

Kim — Wed, 15 Jan 2020 15:00:00 +0000

When one tiny slice of apple can give you a moment of happiness… read about this and many other situations you will notice when you visit Japan.

I think most of you are aware of the following things to see and experience in Japan:

Hot spring baths and wearing a kimono
Geisha
High-tech in Akihabara and Shinjuku
Bento boxes for lunch
Watching Sakura (cherry blossoms)
Multi-course and well-balanced dinners
Gathering all regional KitKat varieties

So this post will skip these well-known things to experience in Japan and focus on some other remarkable things you can’t miss in Japan.

1) People reading manga in convenience stores

I get it, manga’s are fun and saving money is a sound strategy. I just prefer to read on a comfortable couch with a cup of tea in my hand or in a charming bookstore.

2) Wishing you could read these 100 Yen books

With so many fun books to read, you wish you could read Japanese. You’ll also come across a lot of people reading here, both standing up and sitting down. Deep inside I’m very jealous and want to join them.

To be clear: this doesn’t count as a charming bookstore for me even though I love the sight of shelves full of books.

3) More vending machines than you can try

It is not uncommon to find a well-stocked vending machine in the middle of nowhere. Which is very thoughtful, because that is where most people get thirsty.

In busier areas, say a small parking lot in a quiet neighborhood in a rural town, they’ll naturally put three next to each other as to provide you with enough choice.

4) Japanese toilets and sinks

High-tech Walhalla. Heated toilet seats can really make my day. Japanese toilets can play music while spraying water and blowing air. It gives you a feeling of luxury.

After using the toilet you can wash your hands in the all-in-one sink with soap, water, and air to dry your hands after washing.

If you’re out of luck and there is no such sink, then you need to bring your own towel to dry your hands with. Now you know why all souvenir shops sell these small towels!

5) Flaunt your Japanese skills

All foreigners speak Japanese of course. The hotel personnel will happily honor your skills by explaining everything in Japanese. You can see it as a learning experience in a natural environment. Win-win, right?

Yes, after two trips to Japan I can understand floor numbers, breakfast details, and public bath and check-out times. And I know the one word I hear every single time I go to the restaurant counter to pay the bill. They’ll ask you if you want to pay isshoni (一緒に) meaning together. Just say ‘hai’ and you’ll ace your restaurant visit. Traveling like a pro.

6) Old meets new

Let’s build a modern city around historical buildings. Whereas many countries preserve the streetscape around buildings with historical value, Japan does it differently. I’m not talking about Nara’s temple complex or Kyoto’s geisha neighborhood type of places with historical value. But the lesser-known sites are surrounded by modernity.

7) The purpose of a garden

You will never see anyone relaxing in their own garden. Ever. Everyone is always busy. If you pay attention to it, you will notice that most houses have a garden of one-meter width on all sides of the house. Do you see any garden table and chairs?

Public gardens are very popular though, especially in the Sakura (cherry blossom) season. At lunchtime you’ll come across office workers having a company picnic in the park.

8) Outdoor terraces

Imagine the weather is nice and you’re not surrounded by skyscrapers. I would say the ideal situation to enjoy a drink outdoors. But where did the Japanese hide these cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating areas? I don’t know.

When I visited Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima and the like, I only came across one restaurant with a terrace in Hiroshima. I found more of them in Kyushu on my second trip to Japan.

9) Fruit as an art

The Japanese turned growing fruit into an art. And as with anything artistic, it increases the price tenfold. The fruit looks beautiful and is dressed with foam to protect it from harm. I don’t know what prices you’re used to in your country, but I decided to go without fruit for a few weeks.

Imagine the joy you feel when you get one slice (cheese slice size) of apple with your dessert! Or two grapes as a breakfast side dish. It is interesting how you come to appreciate something when it is not part of your everyday life anymore.

10) Raw eggs

Did you ever get a raw egg and wonder which part of the meal you should add it to? You can add it to your rice, mix it with a side dish, use it for dipping, put it in your soup… but there is only one right way for every meal. Fortunately, it won’t take long for someone to come over if you hold the egg in your hand and look around confused.

As the best Japanese meals include all five tastes, it will be hard to avoid taking a bite of a very salty or sour ingredient or side dish when you least expect it. Japanese sour plum (Umeboshi), anyone?

These are the ten situations that surprised me or grabbed my attention the most on my travels to Japan. How about you?

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Japan travel itinerary: 2 weeks in Kyushu and Yakushima Island

Kim — Fri, 20 Dec 2019 11:00:00 +0000

How to spend 2 weeks in Kyushu, Japan? You can read all about it in this Japan travel itinerary focusing on Kyushu and Yakushima Island.

Have you seen the highlights of Japan already and are you looking for travel inspiration for your second trip to Japan? Then this Japan travel itinerary is for you.

With this travel itinerary, you will explore the southern part of Japan: the islands Kyushu and Yakushima in two weeks. Kyushu is Japan’s third-largest island and can easily be reached by car, train or air.

The most interesting part about visiting this part of Japan is the laid-back character of the area. If the weather is nice you can easily mistake parts of Kyushu for a tropical vacation: the vegetation is different from mid and north Japan, fruit is affordable and the must-see places are in the rural areas.

As a special side trip, this Japan travel itinerary will lead you to Yakushima Island: a subtropical island that has a mysterious feeling to it. Yakushima Island is ideal for those who love hiking.

Japan itinerary outline

Fukuoka – Day 1
Nagasaki – Day 2 – 4
Kagoshima – Day 5 – 6
Yakushima Island – Day 7 – 9
Miyazaki – Day 10 – 11
Mizukami – Day 12
Aso – Day 13
Beppu – Day 14 – 15
Practical information (including transport details and budget)

You can skip Fukuoka and start your Japan trip in Nagasaki if you want to keep the number of days at 14. And if you have more time you can add some days in Tokyo before or after the trip.

Japan itinerary map

You can find all the places mentioned in this itinerary in my Japan travel itinerary – 2 weeks in Kyushu and Yakushima Island Google map.

Fukuoka

Day 1: Hakata Ramen, Castle Ruins, Nakasu Street Stalls

Your first day in Japan! From the airport, it is only a ten-minute subway ride to Nakasukawabata Station. Buy your Japanese public transport card (Pasmo or Suica) at a convenience store at the airport and store it with enough money for a few rides in Fukuoka and Beppu.

When you get off the subway you’re right in front of Ichiran’s Tenjin branch where you can eat your first Japanese meal of the trip after checking into your hotel: Hakata Ramen; the pork noodles soup from the Fukuoka area. Afterward, head over to the nearby castle to explore Fukuoka Castle Ruins.

Dinner tonight is at the Nakasu Street Stalls (Yatai). These stalls are located along the canal and attract a lot of people at night. Some of the dishes you can try here are yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), oden (hot pot noodles), a variety of dumplings and Hakata Ramen. Just take a seat at one of the stalls and strike up a conversation with the people around you.

Where to stay in Fukuoka

I stayed at Hotel WBF Fukuoka Nakasu near Nakasukawabata subway station in the Tenjin area. This hotel is within walking distance from Ichiran, the food stalls, Canal City and Hakata train station. I enjoyed my stay at the hotel after an initial discussion about the price; they had to call some people to confirm the amount on my booking reservation over the amount they usually charge.

In the lobby of the hotel, you can choose your shampoo and conditioner for the night, which is a very nice touch and a good opportunity to try Japanese brands. The rooms were clean and, because I booked a twin room, big enough for two people and two suitcases.

Nagasaki

Day 2: Fukuoka Canal City, Hakata Train Station, Braised Pork dish

In the afternoon, pick your luggage up from the hotel and head back to the train station to get your Japan Rail Pass. It is time to go to Nagasaki by train. The train ride takes about two hours and twenty minutes but there is plenty to see during the ride.

After checking into your hotel, head to shopping area 観光通り and find a good restaurant that serves braised pork (Buta Kaku Ni). I can recommend Shippoku Hamakatsu.

If you want to visit Huis ten Bosch while you’re in Nagasaki, then it’s better to head to Nagasaki early in the morning so you can do the activities scheduled for day 3 today. I wanted a slow start (recovering from jetlag) and chose to spend more time in Fukuoka instead.

Day 3: Dejima, Dutch Slope, Glover Garden, Chinatown

Time for a walk around town. The first stop for today is Dejima, a former Dutch Trading Post in the middle of Nagasaki. This trading post housed Portuguese traders and later also Dutch traders from 1641 onwards to separate them from the rest of society. Dejima Island was the only place of direct trade between Japan and the rest of the world.

Head to Nagasaki’s China Town for brunch or lunch. Try Champon (noodles, seafood, pork, and vegetables in white bouillon) and Sara Udon (fried champon).

Next up is the Dutch Slope. Follow the street up the hill to view the former residences of traders who moved there after Nagasaki opened its port for foreign trade in 1859. For two centuries the Dutch were the only Westerners allowed in the country, hence the name Dutch Slope.

From the Dutch Slope, it is only a few minutes’ walk to the ‘elevator’ to Glover Garden. The house within the garden (Glover House, after Thomas Glover, a Scottish merchant who moved to Nagasaki after the port opened) is the oldest Western-style wooden building in Japan.

Take a stroll through the garden and enjoy the view of Nagasaki harbor from above. After leaving the garden at the bottom you pass by Oura Catholic Church. A church built for the foreign traders around 1864 and one of the oldest surviving Christian churches in Japan.

In the streets surrounding the church, you can find many tourist shops with interesting souvenirs and food to try.

Day 4: Peace Park and Museum, Mall, Ropeway Mount Inasa

Whereas yesterday focused on the 1600s until the 1800s, today focuses on more recent history: the atomic bomb that was dropped on Nagasaki in 1945. This morning you will visit the Atomic Bomb Museum and National Memorial to the victims. The museum is quite impressive and especially the objects that were scavenged from the ruins and the pictures and testimonials of people that survived the bombing make an impact.

On your way from the Atomic Bomb Museum to the Peace Park, you pass the Hypocenter Park with the black column marking the epicenter of the explosion and the single remaining pillar of the old Urakami Cathedral.

The Peace Park on top of the hill is filled with sculptures commemorating the atomic bombing of Nagasaki. The visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum and Memorials leave you with both peaceful and heavy feelings.

Take the tram to Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Mall for some afternoon shopping. I recommend a visit to the bookstore and Nana’s Green Tea cafe in the middle of the bookstore. I visited other branches of this cafe in Miyazaki and Tokyo; their matcha and hojicha flavored chocolates, tea and ice creams taste wonderful.

When evening falls, head to the Fuchi Shrine Ropeway Station to take the cable car to the Mount Inasa viewpoint. From the viewpoint, you have a very good view of the illuminated city of Nagasaki.

A practical tip: have your luggage forwarded to your hotel in Kagoshima for optimal freedom of movement tomorrow! Your hotel can probably send it for you or direct you to a convenience store nearby. Make sure to fill in the forms and drop off your luggage before 4 PM.

Where to stay in Nagasaki

Where to eat in Nagasaki

Shippoku Hamakatsu: not a budget meal, though still cheaper than a regular restaurant meal in my country. Try their multi-course dinner with braised pork. I enjoyed the taste of the dishes very much.

China Town: you can’t go wrong here as there are many restaurants in the streets of China Town.

On my way back from the peace park to the tram station, I had lunch at this brilliant little pub called なんばしよっと hidden behind a door that suggests it is a toilet. Be brave and go in for a very good meal with lovely hosts at a low price. This is what they mean with unique and authentic places to have lunch at.

Nana’s Green Tea cafe at Mirai Nagasaki Cocowalk Mall.

Kagoshima

Day 5: Train ride to Kagoshima, Tenmonkan, Tea shop

Prepare for a 4 hours and 30 minutes train ride to Kagoshima, via Hakata Station in Fukuoka. If you sent your luggage ahead you’ll be free to get out at any stop along the way to go sightseeing. I considered stopping at Kumamoto to visit the castle but decided against it as the castle was damaged in an earthquake a few years back and might not be worth the trip. Instead, I walked through some non-touristy neighborhoods in Kagoshima until I reached the Tenmonkan Shopping Center.

If you like tea, then I can recommend Birouen Tea Store in Tenmonkan.

Day 6: Sengan-en Garden, Sakurajima Island volcano, Nagisa Lava Trail and Foot Bath

This morning starts with a visit to the traditional Japanese garden Sengan-en. Ask your hotel for the nearest bus stop to the garden: they know best. On the bus, you can buy a ticket for the day (which you will also need to go to Kagoshima Ferry Port after your visit to the garden).

The garden has many small ponds, temples, bonsai trees and a bamboo forest. The traditional Japanese house and the garden inside and just outside of the building are the highlights of the visit: they’re beautiful and well-maintained, clean and aesthetic and provide a good view of Sakurajima volcano island.

Do also head to the area behind the house and slightly up the hill for a more ‘wild’ and ‘ancient’ version of a Japanese garden. Pure nature with limited human intervention at its best.

I can also recommend the tea house in the garden. It is quite touristy but the ambiance and taste make up for it.

Take the bus from Sengan-en Garden to Kagoshima Ferry Port for a short 15 minutes’ ferry trip to Sakurajima Island. The ferry goes three to four times per hour between 6:00 and 20:00, so no need to watch the time.

At Sakurajima Island, I recommend buying a ticket for the Hop-on / Hop-off buses for a tour around the island. Beware though, this will be a very Japanese experience. The bus stops for like 5 to 10 minutes at every viewpoint or sculpture. That’s plenty of time to see it all but it still feels like ‘get out, take pictures, get in, move on’. In the end, you reach the observation point near the volcano (not that close) and can admire the view of Kagoshima across the sea.

Before heading back to Kagoshima, take a stroll along the coast towards Nagisa Foot Bath and Nagisa Lava Trail. The footbath is situated on the coast, so you can relax a bit with your feet in the warm (not hot) water with Sakurajima volcano on one side and Kagoshima on the other.

The Nagisa Lava Trail is a trail of about three kilometers along the coast. The blackened rocks date back to the eruption of Sakurajima volcano in 1914. It is a very nice stroll with beautiful scenery.

Where to stay in Kagoshima

Moving away from the bigger cities I always pick a more mid-range hotel as I often spend some time relaxing at the hotel. For Kagoshima, I wanted a hotel with a hot spring bath. And because I was traveling with someone with tattoos (often not allowed in public baths) I selected a hotel with private baths. In the end, I didn’t end up using a private bath because the public one was quiet enough that my friend could just go in without anyone seeing her tattoos.

Hotel Fukiagesou is a very good mid-range hotel in Kagoshima. The furniture in the hotel room makes you feel like you’re back in Nagasaki’s Glover Garden, but the beds were surprisingly comfortable. The hotel staff was really nice and helped us find the right bus stop and bus times for Sengan-en Garden. I also enjoyed the breakfast at the hotel very much.

A small note for those that value English speaking skills: the hotel staff didn’t speak any English. This won’t stop them from explaining everything about the baths, the floor of your room and breakfast to you in Japanese. I was quite happy when I found out I could understand 75% of what they said. Apparently, I did pick up some Japanese listening skills on my previous trip to Japan (hotel and restaurant vocabulary only).

They have all the necessary information available in English on paper, so you won’t lack anything.

I enjoyed my stay at Hotel Fukiageso and can recommend it to anyone looking for a place with hot spring baths and a good breakfast.

Where to eat in Kagoshima

I found a good grilled eel (Unagi Don) restaurant (うなぎの末よし) in Tenmonkan Shopping Center. I’ve been a big fan of this dish since my last visit to Japan and I wish I could find a good restaurant selling Unagi Don in my country.

Yakushima Island

Yakushima Island is a small subtropical island off the coast of Kagoshima. On the island you can find many ancient cedar trees; some of them around 7000 years old though you’ll probably agree with me that a thousand years old is already a pretty respectable age for a cedar tree.

Day 7: ferry to Yakushima Island, Shiratani Unsuikyo

Take the morning ferry from Kagoshima Ferry Terminal to Miyanoura or Anbo Port on Yakushima Island. Pick up your rental car near the port and check into your hotel first.

The afternoon is for hiking in Shiratani Unsuikyo: a natural recreation forest that receives a lot of rain every year. It is best known for its very old cedar trees. This area was used as inspiration for the movie Princess Mononoke.

You can do one of the shorter trails (Yayoi Sugi trail) or start a 4-hour trail to Taikoiwa Rock.

Day 8: Tashiro Coast, Senpirono Falls, Seibu Rindo Forest Path, Inakahama Beach, Isso Harbor

Let’s go on a Yakushima Island road trip today… unless you fancy a 10-hour hiking trip to Jomonsugi (the most iconic trail on Yakushima Island) that is.

With Miyanoura port as a starting point, drive clockwise until you reach the first stop of today: a Japanese tea shop (有屋久島八万寿茶園). They sell many types of tea grown on the island. You can try some of them before buying them.

Along the way, you will see many shops selling souvenirs made from Yakushima cedarwood. Feel free to stop at those that grab your attention.

The next big stop, and at the same time my favorite spot on Yakushima Island, is Tashiro Coast. This rocky coast formed by lava was one of the most colorful places I saw on my trip. Not in a bright neon billboards kind of way, but natural, subtle. Even though Tashiro Coast doesn’t seem like much at first, it will grow on you if you give it your full attention and observe.

From there, pass Anbo to visit Senpirono Falls: a waterfall flowing over massive granite cliffs surrounded by forest. I almost wrote “big waterfall” there, but the waterfall is not that big at all. It just feels huge because of the valley surrounding it.

On the west coast of Yakushima Island, you will find Seibu Rindo Forest Path, which is a UNESCO protected forest. Along the often one-lane path, you can spot monkeys and deer. And if not: admire the diverse vegetation. There is plenty to see.

Heading further north you will come across some interesting beaches. One of them is Inakahama Beach, which sea turtles use as a nesting place from May to July.

Another popular white beach is at Isso. If you look at Isso from the other side though, overlooking the harbor from the Shinto Altar nearby, it feels more like you’re in the Lofoten in Norway.

You can read more about these stops in my Yakushima Special.

Day 9: Mount Tachu hike, Yakusugi Land

Today you will explore Yakusugi Land. Depending on what you feel like you can do the short two-hour forest trail and spend the rest of the day relaxing at a nice beach or cafe. Or hike mount Tachu.

The hike to Mount Tachu at 1497m has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Hike. It takes about 6 hours to do a return trip (with minimal resting).

You start in the forest until you reach the side track to Tenmon no Mori. After this, the relaxing forest walk is over and you start climbing.

From the top of Mount Tachu, you can see all the way to the coastal cities while celebrating your success on top of the big rock.

Where to stay on Yakushima Island

I chose to stay at Tashiro Annex in Miyanoura because you can get there quickly from the ferry. From there it is only a 20 minutes drive to the trails in Yakusugi land so you can do a trail on the day you arrive. The hotel offers Japanese and Western rooms and has hot spring baths for men and women. Laundry facilities are also present (very useful if you go hiking). You can eat dinner at the hotel if you make a reservation the day before and enjoy a multi-course dinner or walk into town to eat at one of the many restaurants. Breakfast is good but not too heavy.

Miyazaki

Day 10: Obi Castle Ruins and town

Drop off your rental car at Miyanoura Port and take the ferry back to the mainland in the morning. In Kagoshima, you will pick up your new rental car near the port.

Drive about two hours east towards Miyazaki to reach Obi. Obi is famous for its Castle Ruins. Even though it is called castle ruins, it doesn’t feel like it because many buildings were restored.

Around Obi Castle, you can see traditional Japanese gardens and houses in the so-called Obi Samurai Residence Street. You can enter some of the houses to learn more about the history of Samurai. I marked two of the Samurai residences you can visit on the Japan Travel Itinerary map. You can easily spot the others while wandering around the streets.

Day 11: Cape Toi, Udo Jingu Shrine, Sun-Messe Nichinan

The first stop this morning is Cape Toi at the southeastern tip of Kyushu. Cape Toi is like a resort for wild horses. The horses have plenty of room to wander around and don’t mind humans taking pictures of them from a distance. Or from very closeby, but do keep in mind they are wild horses even though they’re used to having humans around.

You can visit the white lighthouse at the end of the cape for a breathtaking view of the cape and bay. You’ll wish you were one of the horses living there.

There is also another viewpoint providing a good view of Cape Toi but when I went there the horses were blocking the path so we decided to turn back and leave them be.

Take the same road back and stop at Udo Jingu Shrine. This stop is especially important if you want to increase your fertility and chances of a good marriage.

Follow the path through the red gate and down the coast to the colorful temple inside the cave. After visiting the cave, spend some time looking at the cliffs and rock formations. You can try your luck throwing lucky stones (Undama) at the rocks resembling a sea turtle in the hope your wish will be granted.

The last stop for today is Sun-Messe Nichinan to see the statues resembling the Maoi of Easter Island.

If you have some time left and want to go shopping, check out Aeon Mall in Miyazaki. It is open until 22:00 and houses my favorite modern green tea house Nana’s Green Tea.

Where NOT to stay in Miyazaki

I stayed at Kominka Sharehouse Hooju. The building is beautiful: a traditional Japanese farmhouse. The area is authentic, very near to attractions and the price is really low.

Until so far the positive review. The house is still very much in its old state and lacks maintenance. A unique look into history you would say. Yes, but not a pleasant place to stay at. I don’t mind the big spiders in the living room and kitchen or even the cold seeping in through all the spaces in the walls or roof. My problem was with the dust and everything else that irritated my airways from the moment I stepped inside. I tried to spend as much time away from the Sharehouse as I could, but it took days before I felt healthy again.

Where to eat in Miyazaki

For the Aoshima area, I recommend 漁師料理ひで丸. The entrance is a bit hidden behind a carport but you can just open the one door that looks like it might open. I had a very good seafood meal with many side dishes.

Mizukami

Day 12: Aoshima Island, Ebino Plateau

This morning starts at Aoshima Island: an island connected to the mainland by a bridge. What makes the island special is that the vegetation resembles a jungle.

Via the path to the right of the main temple, you can reach a smaller temple in the middle of this jungle. It is a very unique thing to experience in a non-tropical area.

Heading back to the coast of Aoshima Island, you can see the Devil’s washboard (Oni no Sentakuita) at low tide. The Devil’s washboard is a natural formation even though it looks like it was created by humans.

If you can, try to be at Aoshima Island around 8:00 in the morning to avoid the crowds. After that, it gets really busy. You can park your car for free at Miyakoh Botanical Gardens. It is only a short walk from there along the coast lined with palm trees.

Drive an hour and a half west to visit the lakes at the Ebino Kogen in an area filled with volcanoes and craters. You can do an easy 4 kilometers walk around the blue lakes (Lake Byukushi and Lake Rokkannonmi) and spot wild deer.

When I visited in October 2018 I could only do part of the trail because of volcanic activity in the Kirishima area. Most of the no-entry zones were lifted in spring 2019 but some access roads and paths around small craters are still closed. Please check the current status before your visit.

From there head to your hotel in the Mizukami or Aso area for a relaxing evening in a hot spring bath.

Where to stay in Mizukami

I stayed at a lovely hidden hotel called Minshuku Kawahara (民宿川原) in Mizukami. A very rural stay in a Japanese village. A multi-course homemade breakfast and dinner were included. It was one of the best dinners of my Kyushu trip.

The building I rented a room in was beautifully constructed and I basically had the whole building to myself. It was one of the most aesthetically pleasing stays of my trip. The hot spring bath made my skin feel extremely soft. It was also the bath that smelled like sulfur the most… so more healthy minerals?

Aso

Day 13: Takachiho Gorge, Amano Iwato Shrine, Amano Yasukawara

Take the mountain road for two and a half hours to Takachiho Gorge. Make a quick photo stop in Shiiba to see the Kamishiiba Dam. You can drive all the way to the start of the dam (while feeling you’re not allowed to drive there) for a short walk on top of the dam with a view of Shiiba.

Takachiho Gorge is best known for its very blue water surrounded by high cliffs. You can take a boat and watch it from below or walk along the stream for a different perspective.

When it’s busy you can’t park near the entrance of Takachiho Gorge and you have to resort to the parking lots uphill. It is quite steep…

After your visit to the shrines, continue to your hotel in Aso. See if you can time this part of the trip a bit before sunset so you can see the sun go down behind Aso Volcano and the hills in the area.

Where to stay in Aso

I can recommend Tsuruya. A small word of caution ahead: this is not a budget option. This is the luxury stay I always treat myself with once every trip. I rented a Japanese room with a private hot spring bath in the garden and a multi-course breakfast and dinner included.

And it was worth it. A very relaxing stay where everything is taken care of. Lots of space to move around and a hot spring resort experience (that is not a thousand euros per night) at a traditional Japanese house.

On my previous trip to Japan, I stayed at a hotel across the street. Both hotels provide a similar experience. So, see if you can book one nice hotel in the Aso area to treat yourself for a trip going well.

Beppu

Day 14: Mount Aso, Tadewara Wetlands

It is time to visit Mount Aso, the largest active volcano in Japan and one of the biggest calderas in the world. One of the peaks, Nakadake, continuously emits smoke and you will need to check the current status to see if you can visit.

You can park your car at the start of Mount Aso Ropeway, but it is also possible to take the toll road (800 Yen) and park near the crater.

There are many walking paths at the top that you can take to see more of the area. I especially liked the view of the mountains from a path of dark sand and rocks with tiny bushes turning orange for autumn.

Take the mountain pass through the Kuju Mountains to get from Aso to Beppu. Halfway you can make a stop at Chojabaru Visitor Center for a short walk through the Tadewara wetlands. From the wooden boardwalk, you have a good view of the mountain range and you can try to spot some birds in the reeds.

In the evening you can go shopping in YouMe Mall Town Beppu.

Day 15: Beppu

The last day of your trip, feels like hell, right? A perfect day to visit the boiling hells of Beppu.

Take the bus from your hotel to Kannawa Onsen. This is the starting point for a visit to most of the Beppu hells. You can buy a passe-partout for all hells at any of the Hells for 2100 Yen.

In no particular order you will visit:

White Lake Hell (Shiraike Jigoku): a milky white pond with a small garden surrounding it.
Mountain Monster Hell (Onimaya Jigoku): a small pool with crocodiles in tiny cages. Skippable!
Cooking Pot Hell (Kamado Jigoku): small green pond where you can enjoy a foot bath and eat steamed egg and tofu.
Mountain Hell (Yama Jigoku): small pool with animals in small cages. Not worth a visit in my opinion.
Ocean Hell (Umi Jigoku): a beautiful pond with tropical blue color.
Monk Hell (Oniishibozu Jigoku): mud pools with bubbles. A very interesting Hell to visit.

The remaining two hells:

Blood Pond Hell (Chinike Jikogu): a hot, red pool with beautiful plants at the edge. This one is great for taking pictures.
Geyser Hell (Tatsumaki Jigoku): a boiling hot geyser that sprouts twice per hour.

All Beppu Hells have good souvenir shops, but the best are at these last two hells. This is where I bought my very own red demon amulet that is now hanging in my Christmas tree.

You can buy a ticket for all Beppu Hells for 2100 Yen (Oct 2018 price) or pay 550 Yen entrance fee per hell. I think most of the hells are worth visiting, so buying a combined ticket is cheaper in the end.

After visiting the Beppu Hells you can walk down the hill to the train station and take a short train right back to the center of Beppu.

Where to stay in Beppu

I stayed in a Japanese room at Umikaoru Yado Hotel New Matsumi. The Japanese room is very big: you get two rooms basically. The hotel has public hot spring baths and free breakfast is included.

Ending your Kyushu and Yakushima Island trip

This was the last day of the trip. Time to go home.

You have several options here.

Spend a few days in Tokyo. I dropped off my rental car at Oita airport and took a plane to Tokyo for a few more days in the capital of Japan.
Fly home via Tokyo. Do the same as above, but transfer to another plane in Tokyo instead.
Fly home via Fukuoka. Drive to Fukuoka and drop your car off at the airport and take a plane home. Alternatively, you can drop off your car in Beppu or Oita and take the train to Fukuoka.

Practical information

How to get to Kyushu and start your trip

Kyushu is easily reachable by train, air, and boat.

By air

There are many airports on Kyushu Island. To name a few: Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Kagoshima, Oita. I flew from Amsterdam to Fukuoka (via Seoul), but you can easily fly to another airport in Japan and take the train to Fukuoka. If you are flying to Nagasaki, you can skip the day in Fukuoka and start this itinerary on day two.

By train

You can take the high-speed train from Tokyo or Osaka to Fukuoka station to start this round trip.

By boat

If you’re coming from South Korea (Busan area) you can catch a boat to Fukuoka.

Transport

In this itinerary, you will use both public transport and rental cars.

Fukuoka to Nagasaki to Kagoshima

You will travel the big distances by train using an All Kyushu Japan Rail Pass. Take the 5 days option costing 18,330 Yen (Dec 2019 price). This will cover your trip from Fukuoka to Nagasaki and your trip from Nagasaki to Kagoshima and will also allow an optional trip to Huis ten Bosch.

Within cities

Within Nagasaki, Kagoshima, and Beppu you will travel by bus and tram. I had a PASMO public transport card from a previous trip but only used it to get from the airport to the hotel in Fukuoka and in Beppu.

You have to pay the tram in Nagasaki in cash. Make sure you have small coins with you at all times, as you have to pay an exact fee; no change on the tram.

In Kagoshima, I bought a day ticket for the bus.

Ferries to Sakurajima and Yakushima Island

The ferry from Kagoshima Port to Sakurajima Island is very cheap. You can buy a ticket at the ferry port right before your trip. No need to reserve a seat in advance.

It is necessary to buy a retour ticket to and from Yakushima Island in advance. You can try buying one at the ferry port on the day you arrive in Kagoshima, but it is risky. You can read more about how to get to Yakushima Island in my Yakushima Island Special.

Rental cars

You will use two different rental cars on this trip. One on Yakushima Island (pick-up and drop off at the ferry port) and one from Kagoshima on day 10 until your last day in Beppu.

In theory, you can do this Japan trip by public transport. You’ll lack a lot of freedom though and you will need to skip certain activities.

When I visited Aso and Yufuin on my first trip to Japan in 2015, I immediately decided to come back later to explore the same area by car. My visit to this area was so much more worthwhile in 2018 because I could reach more remote spots along the way and stop whenever I wanted to take a picture.

Budget

This budget is based on a two-person party. It will be more expensive if you travel solo and have to pay for your accommodation and rental cars alone.

Transport

Flight from your hometown to Fukuoka: costs depend on where you live
Japan Rail Pass: 150 EUR (167 USD) per person
Hiring a car on Yakushima Island: 128 EUR (143 USD) in total
Hiring a car on the mainland: 418 EUR (466 EUR) in total
Gasoline: around 1000 kilometers for around 80 EUR (90 USD) in total
Ferry to and from Sakurajima: less than 3 EUR (3 USD) per person
Ferry to and from Yakushima Island: 127 EUR (142 USD) per person
Other public transport: less than 5 EUR (5 USD) per person

Food

Around 30 EUR daily per person for 15 days: 450 EUR (502 USD) per person

Accommodation

Around 40 EUR daily per person for 15 days based on low to mid-range hotels: 600 EUR (669 USD) per person

Wifi

44 EUR (49 USD) in total for 15 days. You can order a Pocket Wifi via Klook.com or GetYourGuide.

Entrance fees

Less than 50 EUR (56 USD) per person

Souvenirs

As much or as little as you want

Keep in mind that this is just an estimation based on the trip I did in October 2018. It cost me around 1720 EUR (1918 USD) per person for a party of two, including all the above, but excluding intercontinental flights and souvenirs. If you do this trip on a budget (cheaper hotels and food) the total cost will be much lower.

The post Japan travel itinerary: 2 weeks in Kyushu and Yakushima Island appeared first on Where to Kim?.

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