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Bluer-than-blue Meerauge and the Tscheppaschlucht gorge south of Ferlach in Austria

Kim — Mon, 07 Nov 2022 15:00:00 +0000

The “bluer-than-blue” tiny lake Meerauge and the Tscheppaschlucht gorge are a beautiful piece of nature ready for you to explore.

You can find these places south of Ferlach (Austria) about ten kilometers north of the border with Slovenia. If you’re staying near the Wörthersee and Klagenfurt, you can easily go there as a day trip. Whereas the Tscheppaschlucht gorge is known among tourists, I am pretty sure not many people know of Meerauge.

Meerauge

Meerauge is located in a valley at an altitude of 1010 to 1160 meters. This valley is home to a very diverse natural and cultural landscape, including a fairy tale meadow, the linden tree at Bodenbauer that is on the list of natural monuments, and, of course, Meerauge. This valley is the starting point for numerous hikes.

The origins of Meerauge can be traced back to the last ice age. At the site of present day’s Meerauge there was probably a lump of dead ice, which left a visible depression in the ground after it had completely melted away. The bright turquoise-blue color is the result of several factors: light, special chemistry, very clean water (almost no algae, hardly any plankton and hardly any nutrients in the water).

You can easily observe the blue lake from the 220 meters long wooden walkway connected by six bridges. A visit takes only fifteen minutes. There are three parking spots directly in front of the path to the walkway. Why I recommend it: the colors of the lake are beautiful and the remoteness of the surrounding area is a welcome change of scenery if you’re staying in a more crowded area. Combine a visit to Meerauge with a hike in the area or a visit to the Tscheppaschlucht gorge to make it a day trip.

Near Meerauge you can stop by Gasthaus Bodenbauer-Podnar for a drink, some food and a much appreciated toilet.

Tscheppaschlucht gorge

Let me start by saying that I wanted to visit the gorge, but took the wrong turn (left) at the bridge and never made it to the gorge. The same happened to others we met along the way. With this warning, this will probably not happen to you and you will wonder how it is even possible for someone not to choose the right direction. We didn’t mind, as we were fine with a hike in the area (and had already visited the Sigmund Thun Klamm in Kaprun on another day).

The winding road from Meerauge to the parking lots at the Tscheppaschlucht gorge is no less enjoyable than the destinations themselves. I love driving(/being a passenger) on a road that goes left, right, up and down between mountains, trees and houses. Such roads are abundant in Austria and this one satisfied my daily craving.

After parking and paying a small parking fee, you cross the road and take the bridge toward the Tscheppaschlucht (marked with a very clear sign). On the way to the stream coming out of the gorge, you pass a Waldseilpark that is a fun active platform climbing destination for kids of the right age.

When you get to the stream, where I would have liked to have seen a sign pointing in the right direction, turn right toward the gorge. You can find pictures of the Tscheppaschlucht on Google Maps; I can only share pictures of the walking path and the way back that you find in the other direction.

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Visiting the Heidi Alm and the Falkertsee with young kids

Kim — Mon, 02 May 2022 14:00:00 +0000

The small-scale theme park Heidi Alm at the mountain lake Falkertsee in Carinthia is a nice place to go in the Austrian summer with your young children.

There is plenty to do in and around the Nockberge Biosphere Reserve, which is located in northern Carinthia, near the border with the provinces of Salzburg and Styria. One of the highlights is a drive along the scenic Nockalmstraße; a place that is also perfect for hiking. With older kids, you can go to the Nocky Flitzer summer toboggan run in the nearby Turracherhöhe. But where do you go with young kids under seven?

With children under seven (I went with my cousins aged two and five), the Heidi Alm and Falkertsee are great places to visit.

Heidi Alm

Animated TV series

Do you know Heidi, the five-year-old girl who spends time with her grandfather in the Swiss Alps? As a kid, I watched the animated series from time to time. I wasn’t a big fan of the series because it was already a bit outdated, but I do remember the theme song (especially the yodeling part – and for some reason the German version instead of the Dutch version). My cousins had never seen the series because it is no longer airing, but that is easily remedied with Youtube. The day before we went to the Heidi Alm, we watched a few episodes of the Heidi show and as a result, the next day my cousins could recognize most of the characters in the theme park!

Theme Park

The theme park is not large, but just big enough for the attention span and walking ability of young children. There are no interactive attractions that could make the park interesting for older children. After you enter the park, you follow the path from start to finish. Along the path are statues of the characters, set to reenact scenes from the animated series. Kids love to join the scenes and take pictures with the characters.

Little “hidden” side paths are fun to explore and reward the explorer with extra things to see. Scattered throughout the park are several playgrounds, the largest of which is just before the exit. If you come at the right time, your child can ride on a pony near the restaurant (and restroom) in the middle of the park. Adults will be running after their children as they excitedly run from scene to scene.

The Heidi Alm is in a beautiful location in the Austrian mountains. The view from the path that goes up and down and meanders through the landscape is soothing. So there is also plenty to see for those that are no longer kids.

Falkertsee

Near the entrance to the Heidi Alm is the small mountain lake the Falkertsee. The size of this lake is also perfect for young children, as most can manage a half-hour walk around the lake. The views are nice and the trail is relatively easy to walk on (as in, you’ll have to help the two-year-old a bit, but the five-year-old can do it on his own).

At the lake, you can stop at one of the cabins for a drink and a snack. If it’s open, I recommend a visit to the Hålta Hütte, where they serve homemade drinks, tarts and tapas.

How to get to the Heidi Alm and Falkertsee

The Heidi Alm and Falkersee are an hour’s drive from Mauterndorf (Salzburg province) or Villach (Carinthia province). Follow the Turracher Straße to Vorwald, where you take the road up to the Falkertsee.

You can park your car near the Heidi Alm, just before you would turn left to get to the entrance. Opposite the parking lot is the sports store Nock Sport Huber, in case you need warmer clothes. The kids only have eyes for the trampoline next to the store.

You get to the Falkertsee by walking past the entrance to the Heidi Alm.

Location: Heidi Alm, Falkertsee 2, 9564 Falkert, Austria

Opening hours

In summer (approximately from the end of May to the end of October), the Heidi Alm is open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. Tickets cost 12 EUR for adults and 6 EUR for children between 2 and 14 years. With the Kärnten Card, admission is free.

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Architecture that you either love or hate: Domenig Steinhaus in Austria

Kim — Mon, 21 Feb 2022 15:00:00 +0000

Visit the Domenig Steinhaus: a building with unique architecture in Austria. You’ll either love or hate it, but one thing is certain, it’s fascinating.

Architecture

Günther Domenig and his twin brother Herbert inherited the grounds of this house after the death of their grandmother. Günther spent his childhood at Lake Ossiach (near Klagenfurt), which is considered a “soft landscape” with the “Mölltal valley” as its rough, hard counterpart. The topography and its features left a great impression on him and are reflected in the architecture of the “Stonehouse” and other buildings and objects on the grounds.

The building is divided into five floors, two of which are underground, with the lower one (spiral chamber) situated below the groundwater level. Many things on the inside and outside connect the architecture to nature and events. For example, a glass cylinder between the first and second floors is filled with groundwater.

The house is used primarily as a workshop space for architecture but is also open to other visitors at certain times.

(Source architecture paragraph: Domenig Steinhaus flyer)

Warmth

The many windows at the back of the building illuminate the hallway. The sun plays with the objects hanging from the ceiling. It is a sight that welcomes you and defers the inevitable hard and cold impression that the use of concrete and metal makes on you.

Looking only at the first floor hallway and the garden at the back, the Domenig Steinhaus seems like a lovely, sunny building with plenty of space for privacy and relaxation. Minus the sunny part on bad weather days…

Cold light

As you explore the rest of the building, you will notice the use of concrete and other cold-looking materials. Only essential furniture is found in the bedrooms, bathrooms and work areas.

Natural lighting is found everywhere. And wherever you go, you’ll find nooks to explore and passageways that lead you to another part of the building or outside.

One of my favorite views is the following view from one of the balconies: no matter who tells me otherwise, this view reminds me of Star Wars.

Experience

As the title says, you either love the architecture of the Domenig Steinhaus, or you hate it. For me, it wasn’t love at first sight and I can’t imagine spending more than a few days here. The “cold” is too much for me. Only in the conservatory on the first floor did I feel any warmth.

On the other hand, the house and grounds are fun to explore. You feel like you just have to follow every corridor and check every corner. The concrete house deserves to be viewed from the front, the back and the side, from the balcony, the hallway and the basement. Depending on where you are, it looks very different.

How to visit Domenig Steinhaus

The Domenig Steinhaus is located at Lake Ossiach near Lake Wörthersee, about a half-hour drive from Klagenfurt and Villach. During my 2021 Austria holiday, the house was open to visitors a few mornings a week for a fee of five euros per person. There is currently no information available on opening hours, but I expect this to change once Austria’s current covid lockdown ends.

You can park your car near the site (don’t drive all the way to the entrance, but use the parking lot about a hundred meters before you get there). For those interested: there is a toilet in the ‘grassy hill’ in the garden.

A visit takes about thirty minutes.

Location: Uferweg 31, 9552 Steindorf am Ossiacher See, Austria

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7 Dishes You Need to Try in Austria

Kim — Mon, 08 Nov 2021 15:00:00 +0000

These are the seven most famous Austrian dishes and snacks; the food you simply have to try when you travel to Austria.

1) Apfelstrudel and hot chocolate

The perfect comfort food after a long mountain hike. Almost every restaurant and café in Austria serves apfelstrudel and hot chocolate. The quality and taste differ greatly. I’m not sure why, but during my trip to Austria in 2020 I liked many of them and during my 2021 trip none.

This traditional Viennese strudel, called apfelstrudel, consists of elastic, very thin dough (similar to filo dough), apple slices and raisins. The dough is rolled up to create thin layers. If the apple is spread over the entire surface, the layers that end up between the filling will not be fully cooked.

The dish is usually served with vanilla sauce (it can taste dry without it) and whipped cream, and sometimes with vanilla ice cream.

To complete your sugar boost, you can order a hot chocolate with it. As with the apple strudel, the quality of this hot chocolate can vary. I often found the sugar-free whipped cream tastier than the rather bland tasting hot chocolate. I think I got too used to hot chocolate made with real chocolate instead of the milk + powder variety. But still, if you’re in Austria, you just have to order one once in a while.

2) Kaiserschmarrn

Kaiserschmarrn are Austria-style thick scrambled pancakes. It is a dessert, but beware of that designation: it is as filling as a full meal. The pancakes are caramelized and have a sweet taste. It is said that this dish got its name from Emperor (“Kaiser”) Franz Joseph I, who liked this dessert very much. The schmarrn part means scrambled or shredded.

3) Wiener Schnitzel

Finally, the Austrian dish named after the capital of Austria: Wien (Vienna). A Wiener schnitzel is a thin, breaded, pan-fried cutlet. If not specified, pork is used for the meat portion of the schnitzel. Often you can also choose turkey or veal. There are variations such as the cordon bleu, which you see in the photo above (taken at Blaa Alm near Loserberg).

Those of you who have visited Japan will be reminded of Tonkatsu, which is also a schnitzel, but thicker.

If you can’t stomach any more Wiener schnitzels, look for a Korean restaurant in Austria for something different.

4) Fish from the lakes

Restaurants near the lakes often have grilled or otherwise prepared freshly caught fish on the menu. Trout and char are plentiful. The fish is usually served with boiled potatoes with parsley.

5) Game stew with red cabbage and knödel

A trip to Austria would not be complete without a hike (or drive) to a mountain hut and a hearty meal. A game stew fits perfectly in this setting. Knödel are Austrian bread dumplings. You’ll often see them as a side dish instead of potatoes, but you can also order knödel soup (in which case they usually come with bits of bacon).

6) Bread with cheese and ham

You can’t go wrong with a varied platter of bread, local cheese and meat. Especially not if it comes with a view. The variety on your plate depends on the establishment. The surprise is what makes it the most fun. Austria produces all kinds of cheese (from hard cheese to cream cheese), bread with spicy undertones and smoked ham.

7) Goulash soup

This soup will thoroughly warm you in the middle of a hike. Goulash soup is a national dish from Hungary, but is widely served all over Central Europe. It is a stew of meat seasoned with paprika and other spices. Depending on the restaurant, the soup may be filled with vegetables, egg slices and diced potatoes or served more watery.

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10 Days Austria Travel Itinerary

Kim — Wed, 09 Jun 2021 14:00:00 +0000

Explore the provinces Salzburg and Upper Austria, with some day trips to Styria and Carinthia with this ten days in Austria Itinerary. You will visit the cities, mountains, picturesque towns and see the most beautiful sights.

This Austria itinerary focuses on the middle of the country. You can easily add some days at the end to also visit Austria’s capital Vienna.

For this itinerary, you will need a car. If you don’t have one – and can’t rent one – then you can still use this itinerary as an inspiration because it includes many interesting places. It is possible to visit all of these places using public transport.

Austria Itinerary Summary

Day 1: Salzburg
Day 2: Hallstatt & Dachstein
Day 3: Graz
Day 4: Sankt Wolfgang & Gmunden
Day 5: Loserberg hike
Day 6: Linz & St Florian Monastery
Day 7: Filzmoos & Zell am See
Day 8: Gipfelwelt 3000 & Sigmund Thun Klamm
Day 9: Lienz or Bad Gastein
Day 10: Grossglockner High Alpine Road

Austria Itinerary Map

You can find all places and highlights mentioned in the itinerary in my Austria Google Map.

How to start your trip?

If you’re coming from another country in Europe, you can drive to the starting point of this itinerary: Salzburg.

If you’re arriving in Austria by air, then see if you can fly to Salzburg Airport or Linz Airport, as the first part of this itinerary takes place near these cities. For international flights, Vienna Airport is a likelier destination. If you arrive at Vienna Airport, simply rent a car and head towards Salzburg and Linz. This will take about two and a half hours for Linz and just over three hours for Salzburg. Along the way there is plenty to see and there are many interesting places to visit.

Where to stay in Austria?

While it is possible to move to a new hotel or apartment every few days, I’d recommend to only stay at two places during this trip.

See if you can find an apartment near Bad Ischl, Bad Goisern or Bad Aussee for the first six days. This will put you in between the cities Salzburg, Graz and Linz, so that you can visit all of them with a one to two hour’s drive. Hallstatt, Dachstein Krippenstein and Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut can be reached within half an hour.

Haus Loserblick

I stayed at a beautiful holiday home in Lichtersberg near Altaussee. It is a bit pricey but very comfortable with a sauna and a spacious living room and kitchen. As a bonus: you can go hiking from here and the Loserberg mountain is only one toll road away.

For the second part of the trip, days seven to ten, it is best to stay near Zell am See and Kaprun.

Holiday Home Stocklgut

I stayed in a holiday home in the small village Niedernsill. It was less luxurious than the previous home, but it was spacious and the lady of the house provided us with milk from her own cows every day (paid service) which was nice.

10 Days Austria Itinerary

Click on the links in the day descriptions for more information about the highlights.

Day 1: Salzburg

On the first day of your trip you will explore Salzburg. Salzburg is the ideal destination for those who love history and architecture. This is where it happened. From being the location of a Roman settlement, to becoming the seat of the archbishop and the center of the counter-reformation. It is only the fourth biggest city in Austria, but it is thriving. Salzburg’s historic centrum is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is also the city that Mozart was born in.

Park your car in one of the parking garages on the northeast side of the river. On and around the Linzer Gasse you will find many fun, modern cafes. On this side of the river you can visit the Maribell Palace, Mozart House and the Capuciner Monastery on top of the hill. From this hill you have a great view of the grandiose buildings that stand on the other side of the river.

After crossing the river, take a stroll down Getreidegasse; Salzburg’s touristy and chic shopping street. Its location is no surprise, as this street is very close to the beautiful Dom of Salzburg (Cathedral), many museums and the university. Near the oldest bakery in Salzburg, you can take the castle train up to Hohensalzburg Castle to explore the castle town on top of the hill. From here you have a great view of the buildings on both sides of the river.

Last but not least, after you get back to ground level, you can visit the Petersfriedhof Graveyard and Catacombs; my highlight of the day.

Read more: Things to See in Salzburg

Day 2: Hallstatt & Dachstein

Drive to Hallstatt and park your car at one of the parking lots south of town. Hallstatt is one of the most picturesque towns in Austria. It is charming and has a great panoramic view. At the northern end of the town, you can take a picture of the town and lake against the backdrop of the Dachstein mountains. This is the ‘one and only’ picture that every tourist has to take back home.

The town itself is perfect eye-candy material: beautiful wooden houses – some older than others – built against the mountain, colorful houses near the market square, and a church with an interesting stone wall. Hallstatt deserves its fame.

At Hallstatt, you can also visit Salzwelten on top of the hill; one of the most well-known salt mines in Austria. You can explore the tunnels, learn about salt, and view Hallstatt from above from the viewing platform nearby.

From Hallstatt, you drive in fifteen minutes to the parking lot of the Dachstein cable car station. Dachstein Krippenstein is well-known and loved as a skiing destination, but don’t let that fool you: the Dachstein mountains are a great place to visit in summer as well. (And fortunately, ‘summer’ lasts until November opening time-wise). Visit the Giant Ice Cave and the Mammut Cave and take some great pictures at Dachstein 5fingers and the World Heritage Spiral.

Day 3: Graz

Today’s destination is quite far. Depending on where you are staying it might take around two hours to reach the city of Graz. Graz is the second biggest city in Austria; a university city known for its Old Town that is one of the best-preserved city centers in Europe. You can find Graz in the province of Styria in the south-eastern part of Austria at a two-hour drive from Vienna.

Park your car in one of the many garages (can be very narrow) near the Old Town or the Kunsthaus. From here you can explore the city center on foot. First, head to the Old Town of Graz to see the colorful buildings with various building styles.

Number one of my favorite sites in Graz is the double spiral staircase in the government building near the north-eastern side of the Old Town of Graz. Such interesting architecture giving you the feeling that you can endlessly climb up into the sky. As both stairs meet briefly at every level, only to separate again later, it is no wonder this staircase is called the “staircase of reconciliation”.

Near the double spiral staircase are the Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II and the Dom of Graz. Two imposing buildings with majestic allure next to each other.

A visit to Graz is not complete without climbing the stairs or taking the elevator to the castle overlooking the city. On top of the Schlossberg, you can find some interesting structures like Clock Tower (Uhrturm), the Chinese Pavilion, the Schlossberg stage, and the Gothic Gate. From the viewpoint you can see the intriguing building that houses Kunsthaus Graz.

On the way back home you can make a small detour to visit the Red Bull Ring if you are a fan of motorsports.

Day 4: Sankt Wolfgang & Gmunden

On the fourth day you will visit two nearby towns. Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut is a pleasure to explore. Its colorful housing and shops selling local delicacies and other (winter) products give the town a winter wonderland charm. Even on a sunny day with a blue sky. There’s a shop selling air-dried ham for an afternoon snack and other shops selling everything you could possibly need for a cold winter.

The biggest tourist attraction (but not trap!) is the Schafbergbahn, an old railway track that takes you to the summit of the Schafberg. This railway track – with the bright red train – has been in use since 1893. From the peak of the Schafberg, you have a panoramic view of the Wolfgangsee and the Salzkammergut mountains. I do recommend taking the first ride up the mountain, because that leaves you more time for sightseeing in Gmunden.

If you are short on time – or just having a great time in Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut – you can also choose to make a short stop in Gmunden on day six or skip the town altogether. I visited Gmunden as one of the much needed breaks on the day I drove from the Netherlands to Austria.

Gmunden is a small town that is best known for the beautiful photos you can take of the lake surrounded by the mountains. On a small island in the lake, connected to the mainland by a bridge, sits Schloss Ort, a small castle that is often used as a film location in movies.

Day 5: Loserberg hike

What would a trip to Austria be without hiking?

The Loserberg is an 1838 meters high mountain in Ausseerland in Austria. It is a place that is well-known as a ski resort, but – among tourists – less as a place to go hiking. There are plenty of short and longer hikes available. Some of the shorter hikes can be combined into one long hike and there is also plenty of space to simply wander.

You can start the hike of your liking from the parking lot of the Loser Alm restaurant at 1600 meters. To get there, follow the Loser Panoramastraße; a zigzagging toll road of 9 km from Lichtersberg near Altaussee. If you are looking for a short hike, then the Augstsee roundtrip, the Bräuning Alm roundtrip, and the path to the Loserfenster are perfect for you. For a longer hike, you can continue to the Loserberg summit from the Loserfenster.

After your hike, head to the Blaa Alm for a nice meal at a restaurant surrounded by forest and grass fields with a relaxing outdoor seating area and a playground for kids. You can also explore the nearby town Altaussee and relax near the lake.

Day 6: Linz & St Florian Monastery

Drive in an hour or so (depending on where you are staying) to Linz, the third biggest city in Austria after Vienna and Graz. The city of Linz is the most important industrial city in Austria. For tourists, it is probably more interesting to know that Linz was named the cultural capital of Europe in 2009. And it shows.

Visit the Old Town to see the Landhaus, Kremsmünstererhaus, Old and New Cathedral and the Trinity Column on the Main Square.

After sightseeing in the Old Town and exploring the beautiful buildings there, it is time to visit something completely different, namely the Mural Harbor of Linz. In this harbor, you will find one of the biggest open-air exhibitions in Europe. Free art and plenty of open space against a unique background all ready for you to explore.

You can combine a visit to Linz with a visit to the St. Florian Monastery nearby. From Linz, you can drive to St. Florian in less than half an hour. St. Florian is the largest monastery in the province of Upper Austria. It was founded in the early ninth century and refounded by the Augustinians in the 11th century.

Day 7: Filzmoos & Zell am See

A trip to Austria would also not be complete without a hike (or drive) to a mountain hut and a hearty meal. Look no further: the Oberhofalm near Filzmoos is a perfect example of a mountain hut. Either park your car in the valley and hike to the mountain hut, or pay a small fee for the toll road and park in front of the restaurant. Filzmoos is on route to your next holiday home in the Zell am See / Kaprun area.

The town Zell am See is located next to a large lake that lends itself perfectly to all kinds of water sports activities. Zell am See is a bustling town in high season, but blissfully – ghostlike – quiet in low season. Wander the streets and go shopping at the clothing stores and shops selling local delicacies or have a drink in a restaurant or cafe. In winter, this town is a perfect base for skiing in the area, for example on the Kitzsteinhorn.

Day 8: Gipfelwelt 3000 & Sigmund Thun Klamm

Head to the Kitzsteinhorn cable car station to take the glacier jets to the panorama platform Gipfelwelt 3000. From the ‘Top of Salzburg’ you have a great view of the alps, especially in summer when it is not snowing. At the top you’ll also find a small alpine museum and a restaurant with a view. For the ski enthusiasts among you: on the Kitzsteinhorn you can often ski as early as October.

If you have some time left after your visit to Gipfelwelt 3000, you can head to the Sigmund Thun Klamm; a naturally shaped gorge with water that flows beautifully. You pass the entrance of this gorge on your way back to Kaprun.

Alternative: Stausee

You can also choose to visit the Stausee on this day if you prefer a warmer destination that is better suited for hiking. To get to the Stausee, you drive past the Kitzsteinhorn valley station towards Bergrestaurant Mooserboden, a restaurant located next to the alpine lake Stausee Mooserboden. In this area you can go for a walk, hike the herb trail and have a meal at the restaurant.

The Stausee can only be visited during the summer season (until mid-October). Do pay attention to the interactive information board on the 168 road near Kaprun to see if the road to the Stausee is open. If there is an avalanche warning, you cannot visit the lake. If the road is open, you can park at Kaprun Stauseen Parkhaus and take the shuttle bus from there.

Day 9: Lienz or Bad Gastein

Lienz and Bad Gastein are your alternative options if the weather is bad on one of the other days. So feel free to move another day’s activities to day nine if needed.

Lienz is a city with a colorful city center that often has great weather. If the weather isn’t great around Zell am See and Kaprun, then head to Lienz, a town south of the Grossglockner mountain. From Kaprun, it is about an hour and a half drive to Lienz, either through the Felbertauern Tunnel or by crossing the Grossglockner Hochalpenstraße (closer to two hours).

In Lienz you can relax in the colorful city center and see Schloss Liebburg, the Antonius Church, an Old Smithy and the Old City Wall and Tower. Outside of the city center you can pay a visit to Schloss Bruck, a castle built on top of the hill dating back to the 13th century.

Alternative: Bad Gastein

Are you looking for a relaxing day? Then head to Bad Gastein, an area full of wellness resorts. Spend your day relaxing in the saunas and thermal baths surrounded by the alps.

Day 10: Grossglockner High Alpine Road

Today is the last day of your roundtrip, so let’s end the trip properly with a scenic drive. The Grossglockner High Alpine Road is the highest surfaced mountain pass in Austria: a zigzagging road with amazing views. Go on a road trip and see the beautiful alpine landscape from the car and the many sights and viewpoints, such as the Fuscher Törl Memorial, Edelweißspitze, Hochtor and the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe.

When you reach the end of the Grossglockner High Alpine Road you come upon the village Heiligenblut. Heiligenblut is advertised as a beautiful, charming, and picturesque village. Picturesque, sure, though no more than Hallstatt or Sankt Wolfgang im Salzkammergut. Charming? No. Not in October when all the restaurants are closed or under construction. Heiligenblut is only worth a visit in the high season.

On the other hand, as it only takes five to ten minutes to see the village, there is no reason to skip it either. Snap your perfect picture of the Gothic church with the Grossglockner mountains in the background as a souvenir.

From Heiligenblut, you take the Grossglockner High Alpine Road back to where you came from.

You’ve reached the end of this Austria itinerary. If you can spend more time in Austria, then you can continue your trip in or near Vienna or in the west of the country.

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Things to do near Zell am See and Kaprun

Kim — Wed, 19 May 2021 14:00:00 +0000

The cities of Zell am See and Kaprun in Austria are the ideal base for a winter or summer vacation. Discover all the fun things to do in the area.

Zell am See town

Zell am See is located next to a large lake that lends itself perfectly to all kinds of water sports activities. In winter, this town is a perfect base for skiing in the area, for example on the Kitzsteinhorn.

Zell am See is a bustling town in high season, but blissfully – ghostlike – quiet in low season. There are clothing stores, interesting restaurants and cafes, and stores with local delicacies in abundance. Most of the stores were closed during my October 2020 visit, with the exception of the establishments on Seegasse. But just from my visit in the off-season, I got the impression that this town is fun to hang out in after a day of skiing or hiking.

On Seegasse, I can recommend Feinkost Lumpi, a store selling local delicacies; it is the perfect place to hunt for souvenirs. On the same street, you will find many cafes and restaurants.

Kaprun town

I’ve included the town of Kaprun for the sake of completeness, but I wouldn’t recommend spending too much time in the town itself unless your hotel is there. When it comes to the availability of stores and restaurants, Zell am See is a more interesting town.

However, the Kitzsteinhorn ski area is easiest to reach from Kaprun. If the main purpose of your trip is skiing, a hotel or cabin near Kaprun will get you to the ski slopes the fastest.

Grossglockner High Alpine Road

The Grossglockner High Alpine Road is the highest surfaced mountain pass in Austria: a zigzagging road with amazing views. Go on a road trip and see the beautiful alpine landscape from the car and the many viewpoints, such as the Edelweißspitze and the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe.

Sigmund Thun Klamm

Follow the path of stairs that lead you through the Sigmund Thun Klamm; a naturally shaped gorge with water that flows beautifully.

Stausee

Drive past the Kitzsteinhorn valley station towards Bergrestaurant Mooserboden, a restaurant located next to the alpine lake Stausee Mooserboden. In this area you can go for a walk, hike the herb trail and have a meal in the restaurant.

Kitzsteinhorn & Gipfelwelt 3000

For the ski enthusiasts among you: on the Kitzsteinhorn you can often ski as early as October. If you visit the Kitzsteinhorn in summer, you can take the glacier jets to the panorama platform Gipfelwelt 3000. From the ‘Top of Salzburg’ you have a great view of the alps.

Bad Gastein

Are you looking for a relaxing day? Then head to Bad Gastein, an area full of wellness resorts. Spend your day relaxing in the saunas and thermal baths surrounded by the alps.

Filzmoos

A trip to Austria wouldn’t be complete without a hike (or drive) to a mountain hut and a hearty meal. Look no further: the Oberhofalm near Filzmoos is a perfect example of a mountain hut. Either park your car in the valley and hike to the mountain hut, or pay a small fee for the toll road and park in front of the restaurant.

To be fair, Filzmoos is not close to Zell am See at all (more than an hour’s drive), but since I had lunch at the Oberhofalm on my way to Zell am See – coming from the Altaussee area – it could be that you are driving through this village as well.

Lienz

If the weather isn’t great around Zell am See and Kaprun, head to Lienz, a town south of the Grossglockner mountain. Lienz is a city with great weather and a colorful city center. From Kaprun, it is about an hour and a half drive to Lienz, either through the Felbertauern Tunnel or by crossing the Grossglockner Hochalpenstraße (closer to two hours).

How to get to Zell am See and Kaprun?

Zell am See and Kaprun are at an hour and a half drive south of Salzburg and two hours east of Innsbruck. So it’s quite a drive to get there, but it’s a great location for exploring the Hohe Tauern National Park (including the Grossglockner and Kitzsteinhorn).

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What is it like to visit Gipfelwelt 3000 in October?

Kim — Wed, 21 Apr 2021 14:00:00 +0000

Gipfelwelt 3000 is a panoramic platform on the Kitzsteinhorn in Austria. From the ‘Top of Salzburg’ you have an amazing view of the alps.

At 3,029 meters above sea level, Gipfelwelt 3000 is high in the sky. It is the highest excursion area in Austria. From here you can also see the highest mountain in the country, the Grossglockner. The four glacier jets and the glacier shuttle will take you comfortably to the top and offer stunning (snowy) views of Hohe Tauern National Park.

Gipfelwelt 3000 in October

Although the location of the snowline will not be the same every year, all levels except the ground station parking lot will likely be covered in snow in mid-October. This means that you will see the world turn white as you take the glacier jet that will take you to the first station.

Stations

On the first level, you’ll find a store that sells alpine gear, in case you forgot your gloves. Other than visiting the store, there is not much to do on this level. The second gletscherjet takes you to the first ski area. Already in October, many people enjoy the snow on the Kitzsteinhorn. To get to the third gletscherjet, you have to go through a few hundred meters of snow (at least ankle to knee-deep), so make sure you wear the right shoes.

At the stations of the third and fourth gletscherjet, you will also find ski areas. At the fourth station, you’ll transfer to the gletscher shuttle, a train-like structure that will take you to the Top of Salzburg viewing platform and restaurant.

If you’re waiting for the shuttle, it may seem like the shuttle isn’t coming. If it’s snowing outside, you won’t be able to see the shuttle when it’s at the top. Just wait patiently for the shuttle to arrive: if you are within the opening hours, it will come.

Top of Salzburg

There are two viewing platforms at the summit. Of these two, the Top of Salzburg is the highest at 3,029 meters. From here you can either have a beautiful view of the surrounding area or just a view of a “white wall” when it is cloudy and snow is falling. You can experience the second if you visit Gipfelwelt 3000 in October. In that case, the trip itself is what matters, and the fact that you know that you are this high up in the mountains. Either way, it’s fun to take a picture with the sign.

National Park Gallery

Enter the tunnel to learn more about alpine nature. At the end of the tunnel, you will reach a second viewpoint. This little museum will give you an alpine breathing challenge on the way back up (it’s not a circular walk).

Gipfel Restaurant

After sightseeing in the snow, it’s nice to get warm again with a cup of hot chocolate and a meal. October is considered the low season, so you can only use the buffet option here. As always, meals on top of a mountain are not very fancy, but they are invigorating.

Worth it?

Although I prefer green mountain scenery, I think a trip to Gipfelwelt 3000 in the snow is also worthwhile if the weather is good. Especially since it was the only mountain (of the ones I visited) that was covered in snow in mid-October. I would recommend going on a day with clear(er) skies to get more out of the view because you can’t see much when it’s snowing heavily. As you can see from the photos I took, I didn’t have much of a view.

A round trip to the top, including lunch at the restaurant, will probably keep you entertained for about four hours.

If you like skiing or snowboarding, you can also opt for a more active visit to the Kitzsteinhorn. Since October is the low season, the ski slopes will not be crowded.

How do I get to Gipfelwelt 3000?

The valley station is ten minutes south of Kaprun. From Zell am See, you can get there in twenty minutes. You can park your car in one of the many parking lots near the entrance. Nearby you can also visit the Sigmund Thun Klamm.

Location: Kesselfallstraße 60, 5710 Kaprun, Austria

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Korean Restaurants in Austria (outside of Vienna)

Kim — Wed, 14 Apr 2021 14:00:00 +0000

Four Korean restaurants in Austria (Salzburg, Linz, Graz, Hard) where you can eat Korean food.

What do you do when you can’t travel to South Korea to eat delicious Korean dishes? You look for Korean restaurants closer to home, even when you are on holiday in Austria.

As I didn’t visit Vienna – 2020 was not the best year for visiting cities with lots of people – I looked for Korean restaurants in other cities.

Let me share my restaurant tips for those of you visiting Salzburg, Linz, Graz, or Hard (near Bregenz).

1) Restaurant Hibiskus in Salzburg

Restaurant Hibiskus in Salzburg is my favorite Korean restaurant in Austria. This restaurant has an extensive menu with at least six options for Korean tea. We ate spicy stir-fried pork and an autumn beef stew with dates, chestnuts, and lots of meat. Plus, of course, a serving of Korean Fried Chicken as a side dish. The quality and taste of the food are very good.

Hibiskus is quite popular at lunchtime, although most people order the daily menu which was Italian food that day.

Location: Mirabellplatz 1 (Neues Mozarteum), 5020 Salzburg, Austria
Check out their website for the menu.

2) Restaurant DAO in Linz

Another good Korean restaurant, this time in Linz. Restaurant DAO serves most of the well-known Korean dishes plus some dishes that you can’t find in every Korean restaurant. For example, I am still waiting for a restaurant to start serving Jjajangmyeon in my country.

Not surprisingly, I recommend the Jjajangmyeon (big bowl!). We also ate Kim Sam Bok and Da Kang Jeong (which was nothing like Korean Fried Chicken). Delicious food!

Location: Klammstraße 20a, 4020 Linz, Austria
Check out their website for the menu.

3) Restaurant Akakiko in Graz

With this restaurant, we cheated a bit. Akakiko is a Japanese restaurant that serves Japanese and Asian Fusion dishes. You can, however, find Korean food like Bulgogi, Sweet Gochujang Chicken, Bibimbap, and Kimchi on the menu. So I’d say this restaurant counts, even if the taste of the Bulgogi was a little less Korean than what I’m used to.

Just remember that restaurant Akakiko is an option if you are in Graz and crave Korean food.

Location: Sparkassenpl. 2, 8010 Graz, Austria
Check out their website for the menu.

4) Restaurant Okims in Hard

We were about to visit this Korean restaurant when the area turned orange (coronavirus warning), so we skipped this town and drove home instead. At Okims you can order a variety of Korean dishes. This restaurant has some dishes that the restaurants I mentioned earlier don’t serve. So it can be quite a (welcome) challenge to decide what to eat.

Location: Hofsteigstraße 122a, 6971 Hard, Austria
Check out their website for the menu.

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Highlights of the Old Town of Graz: #1 Double Spiral Staircase

Kim — Wed, 31 Mar 2021 14:00:00 +0000

The Double Spiral Staircase is one of the most interesting sights in Graz. Find out about the must-see sights in the second-biggest city of Austria.

Graz is the second biggest city in Austria; a university city known for its Old Town that is one of the best-preserved city centers in Europe. You can find Graz in the province of Styria in the south-eastern part of Austria at a two-hour drive from Vienna.

As those of you who read my Salzburg post might already know, Graz was not my favorite city in Austria. While it had some interesting spots, it lacked a certain charm. The city failed to combine history and modern allure with a ‘hangout here’ vibe. Though that is only the impression I got as a one day visitor; for someone living there, it might feel different.

Must-see Sights in Graz

These are the must-see sights in Graz.

Double Spiral Staircase

Number one of my favorite sites in Graz is the double spiral staircase in the government building near the north-eastern side of the Old Town of Graz. It takes only a few minutes to walk up and down the stairs, but it is worth the trip. Such interesting architecture giving you the feeling that you can endlessly climb up into the sky. As both stairs meet briefly at every level, only to separate again later, it is no wonder this staircase is called the “staircase of reconciliation”.

Location: Burggasse 3, 8010 Graz, Austria

Mausoleum & Dom of Graz

Near the double spiral staircase are the Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II and the Dom of Graz. Two imposing buildings with majestic allure next to each other. Especially the architecture of the mausoleum is very unique and hard to overlook.

If only they would remove the yellow column in front of the Dom…

Location: Burggasse 3, 8010 Graz, Austria

Old Town of Graz

The Sporgasse is at the center of the historic city center. This cobblestone road with a slight incline is home to some interesting shops and cafes. If you follow the Sporgasse (coming from the Dom), you will reach the main square (Hauptplatz) of Graz.

All over the Old Town of Graz, you will find beautiful, colorful buildings with various building styles. They’re a delight to watch! So take your time to wander around and admire your surroundings.

Location: Sporgasse, 8010 Graz, Austria

Main Square

At the main square of Graz, you can find a few terraces and shops. Even though it is possible to have a drink here, I would advise you to have a drink in one of the side streets instead as the main square lacks a certain atmosphere. This is partly because of the tram stop and the scaffolding on the buildings. It made the square feel big and busy instead of cozy and intimate.

Location: Hauptpl. 1, 8010 Graz, Austria

Where to have a drink?

Between the main square and the Franciscan Church, you can find fun restaurants and cafes. These small streets are quiet (in a good way) and colorful. This is the place to be!

Location: Franziskanerpl. 14, 8010 Graz, Austria

Another good place to look for a meal or a drink is the Schmiedgasse. In the afternoon, you’ll see people having drinks at the seats in front of the restaurants on this trendy street.

Location: Schmiedgasse, 8010 Graz, Austria

Schlossberg

A visit to Graz is not complete without climbing the stairs or taking the elevator to the castle overlooking the city. For kids, there is the option to go up by train and down with a slide. The panoramic view you get from above is worth the trip. Do take a moment to take a picture of the staircase built against the rocks.

Because the city doesn’t have buildings like Salzburg’s Dom and the nearby university and museums, the view of Graz is less spectacular. The buildings on top of the hill, for example, the Graz Museum Schlossberg, is not comparable to the small city that lies inside Hohensalzburg Castle.

On top of the Schlossberg, you can find some interesting structures like Clock Tower (Uhrturm), the Chinese Pavilion, the Schlossberg stage, and the Gothic Gate.

Location: Schloßberg 8010, 8010 Graz, Austria

Island in the Mur

A glass cafe and shop in the middle of the Mur river. Is this an island or a boat?

Location: Mariahilferpl. 5, 8020 Graz, Austria

Kunsthaus Graz

You’ve probably already noticed this building from your viewpoint on the Schlossberg (the dark building with the spikes in the picture above). The architecture of this museum is an artwork on its own. Kunsthaus Graz is a museum for contemporary art and often organizes interesting exhibitions.

Location: Lendkai 1, 8020 Graz, Austria

How to get to Graz

Graz lies in the south-eastern part of Austria at a two hour plus drive from Vienna. Unless you’re touring the province of Styria (Steiermark) during your roundtrip, Graz will not be around the corner. From Altaussee (near Hallstatt) where I was staying, it was a two-hour drive as well.

If you don’t have enough time to visit both Graz and Salzburg, then I would go to Salzburg (or Linz). Salzburg has more of a small-town vibe to it, while Graz means business. It feels like a city that I would visit for work.

Nearby: Red Bull Ring

Depending on where you are staying, you might be able to pay a short visit to the Red Bull Ring with only a small detour as this motorsport race track is only an hour’s drive away from Graz. When there are no races at the race circuit, you can enter the building for free to visit the shop, restaurant, museum with cars and motorbikes. If you are lucky, you might even see people training on the circuit!

Location: Red Bull Ring Str. 1, 8724 Spielberg, Austria

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Linz: a Cozy Old Town and a Harbor with Street Art

Kim — Wed, 17 Mar 2021 15:00:00 +0000

Visit Linz in Austria to see both interesting architecture and a modern industrial harbor with street art. Extra tip: visit the St. Florian Monastery nearby.

Linz is the third biggest city in Austria after Vienna and Graz. Though what is big? With around 200,000 residents it is still a rather small city compared to many other cities in the world.

The city of Linz is the most important industrial city in Austria. For tourists, it is probably more interesting to know that Linz was named the cultural capital of Europe in 2009. And it shows.

Sights in Linz

These are the must-see sights in Linz.

Old Town of Linz

You can’t go wrong if you decide to take a walk in the city center of Linz. As you wander, you will see many interesting buildings, illustrating much of Linz’s significance in earlier times. Some buildings are beautiful and majestic, while others are more charming or modern. But overall, you can’t help but notice that Linz is a city with a good atmosphere. The outdoor terraces of cafes are very popular and show that this is a city where people like to go to enjoy themselves.

Location: Altstadt, 4020 Linz, Austria

Trinity Column and Main Square

The Trinity Column is a baroque column that was erected on Linz’s Main Square to commemorate the nearing end of the pest epidemic. You might want to skip this area in the morning, as the flea market around the Trinity Column is less than impressive.

Location: Hauptpl., 4020 Linz, Austria

Landstrasse shopping street

Next to the historic city center lies the modern shopping street Landstrasse. You can access this street from Linz’s Main Square.

Location: Landstraße 4020 Linz, Austria

Landhaus

The Landhaus is housed in a former monastery that was turned into a government building in 1563. It became an important political site. You can see the many different building styles that resulted from rebuilding (after an invasion) and extension. Especially the Arkadenhof, Landhausbrunnen, Landhausturm, and Nordportal are worth exploring.

Location: Landhausplatz 1, 4020 Linz, Austria

Kremsmünstererhaus

An interesting building from both an architectural perspective and a historical perspective. In 1507 the Kremsmünster got possession of this renaissance building from the 1500s. Before that, it was used as a residence by emperor Friedrich III, whose memorial you can find inside.

The onion-shaped towers set this building apart from other buildings in the Old Town of Linz (though it reminds me of Schloss Liebburg in Lienz). Above the massive arched portal, you can see the Kremsmünster monastery coat of arms.

Location: Altstadt 10, 4020 Linz, Austria

Ignatiuschurch “Old Dom”

This Baroque building (first picture) was the Old Dom of Linz until the end of the 19th century. After that, it was replaced by a new cathedral, the ‘New Dom”. When you see the narrow streets surrounding the Old Dom, you will understand why they built a new Dom when the city grew in size.

Location Old Dom: Domgasse 3, 4020 Linz, Austria
Location New Dom: Herrenstraße 26, 4020 Linz, Austria

OÖ Kulturquartier

The OÖ Kulturquartier is worth mentioning because of the cultural events taking place here. Perhaps there is a nice exhibition when you visit, but if not, you can still have a drink in the courtyard.

Location: Landstraße 31, 4020 Linz, Austria

Ars Electronica Center

This experience center combines Art, Technology, and Society. When you visit the Ars Electronica Center you will see innovative and groundbreaking technology as well as new forms of artistic expression. Feel amazed in the Deep Space 8k and take a step into the future.

Location: Ars-Electronica-Straße 1, 4040 Linz, Austria

Mural Harbor

After sightseeing in the Old Town and exploring the beautiful buildings there, it is time to visit something completely different, namely the Mural Harbor of Linz. In this harbor, you will find one of the biggest open-air exhibitions in Europe. Free art and plenty of open space against a unique background all ready for you to explore.

It is really impressive to see the art that some people can create on irregular backgrounds. The murals are beautiful and the colorful cranes and sea containers that belong in the harbor add more flavor and identity to the scenery.

Instead of describing the various murals and telling you how much I liked them, I’ll show you more pictures so that you can judge for yourself.

Location: Mural Harbor, Industriezeile 40, 4020 Linz, Austria

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How to get to Linz?

Linz lies in the northern part of Austria. The nearest big city is Salzburg, an hour and a half’s drive away. From Vienna or Hallstatt it takes about two hours to get to Linz by car.

A good parking garage near the city center is Garage Promenade Linz.

Location parking garage: Promenade, 4020 Linz, Austria

If you find yourself near Linz, do visit the city even if it is only for half a day; that’s plenty of time to see all sights that I described above, except for the museums.

Extra: St. Florian Monastery

You can combine a visit to Linz with a visit to the St. Florian Monastery nearby. From Linz, you can get to St. Florian in less than half an hour.

St. Florian is the largest monastery in the province of Upper Austria. It was founded in the early ninth century and refounded by the Augustinians in the 11th century. Built on a higher elevation than the rest of the town, this impressive Baroque building feels like a quiet place that oversees it all. When you approach the monastery, you can see it from far away. Take a walk around the building and explore the hallways and courtyard. If your timing is right, you can join a tour and take a look at the impressive library inside.

Location: Augustiner Chorherrenstift St. Florian, Stiftstraße 1, 4490 St. Florian, Austria

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